The Doll Forum

I dont' have any pics (didn't think of doing that during the experiment) and the stuff has been recycled into other things already, but I can take some of the tools.

It is possible to widen the holes with a soldering iron. Something I've used for other materials to make specific holes for mounting electronics or handles (like replacing hard handles on objects with custom-molded soft handles, etc), etc., that should also work on TPE and TPR (not silicone) to mod...

I still can't wrap my head around how to calculate what servo is needed for what application. I will just need to experiment. Googling that actual phrase finds a bunch of sites that may be able to help with that. I don't know much of anything about servos and robotics yet, other than they are basic...

I'm not an engineer. I don't understand torque... <snip> The best explanation I could find, is that a 65kg/cm servo can lift a 65kg load at 1cm from the shaft... 2cm from the shaft is half that. Right. To move more load with the same servo, you would have to gear down the output to be slower. The f...

Do you already have a face to pull a mold from? If so, then it's a relatively easy and painless process, especially if it not a living human face (though there are processes to mold those, too). http://smooth-on.com has a bunch of good videos on creating molds and casts with their products, which ar...

If you look around for some of the back-repair threads, you'll see a few methods people have used to attach connectors between broken parts without welding. These are the types of methods you'll probably need to use for your add-on neck support. If you can prefabricate the whole support such that it...

Speaking of (overly) complex joint ideas (as well as some simple ones):
viewtopic.php?p=2043678#p2043678

In case you haven't run across this project:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=127340

I don't know enough about this stuff to know if it is applicable to your specific usage, but it might be.

In case you haven't run across this project:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=127340

I don't know enough about this stuff to know if it is applicable to your specific usage, but it might be.

fix those damn joints. Joints should not get loose, or wear out. Mechanical friction is not the way to go, work it out. <snip> There is a bonus in the paycheck of whoever can manipulate the joints to make them tight and loose at the whim of the owner. There are purely mechanical ways to do this, bu...

Everything in my post is speculative. ;) Just wanted to summarize some of what had been said here, plus elsewhere on the forum. Without long term exhaustive independent testing at a single "lab" with controlled conditions, of all possible issues, it's very difficult to say what causes any ...

A few points, and some thoughts. All of them may apply to the dolls, and the last may apply to separate non-skeletonized items, in one form or another: The wire in the hands appears to generally be copper wire, and some of it appears from pictures to be insulated transformer coil / motor winding wir...

First, the neck shape doesn't look all that different from the internal cast skull of the typical TPE doll head. So there's a potentially easy solution, of a dense-foam skull-shaped cover. First, though: How squishable / flexible is that neck? Meaning, will it hold it's own shape and position, with ...

Hummm!! I might have to order a set of those, only for warming the hands I don't need anything else to melt TPE, I have plenty of tools for that. But yeah warm hands would be nice. I bought two electric snuggies from Walmart last September, to keep the doll's body warm when they are in bed. I think...

Did a similar thing with the heating wire from an electric pad Stripped away the outer pad material leaving just the insulated wire On High it melted the TPE :thumbs_down: That's because those are too high a wattage (they output too much heat). I think one of the pads I have here that I use on my b...