Tools for modifying MQ's
- IanEvans
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
So, before you begin drilling and grinding, make sure the positioning is practical. I'd hate to see you go through all that work only to be unable to get your hips far enough between her legs to enjoy the result.
- MannequinFan
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
My goal on this project is to make her as realistic and anatomically correct as possible. It's really become more of an art project than a sex doll/mannequin project.
However, I have "played" with her in an aroused state and found that the easiest access is from the rear, which is usually the easiest way for stand up sex in reality.
NotMyName wrote:Notice how most inflatables have the vaginal opening facing forward instead of straight down, since the legs aren't designed to spread. I've even heard that some silicone dolls are difficult to penetrate precisely because of their anatomical accuracy (a woman will instinctively angle her hips forward, but obviously a doll cannot).
That's because most inflatables are designed for man-on-top missionary position sex. The pose on this particular mannequin has a significant back arch, so I think she is best suited for stand up sex from the rear. To make her accessible from the front I would have to put her vagina on her stomach!
My goal is to have a mannequin that will be good for photography as well as for a little playtime fun. The visual arousal is more important to me than getting deep penetration. I have other sex toys that I like to use as well, so sometimes I just use her for "foreplay" so to speak.
As far as all the drilling and grinding, it's already done!
I'm planning on making an album showing the entire process when I'm finished, but to stay on topic, here are a few pics to show the progress and the tools that have worked well for me so far:
Step 1 (left): Make a cutting template from the Mckenzie Lee pocket pussy. I used a piece of notebook paper and made it conform to the shape of the toy, then traced around it. Pencil lead will leave a gray stain on the toy (as I found out) so if you use a flair pen with water base ink (not Sharpie!) it will wash right off if you get some on the toy. I sketched the labia and the vag opening on the template so I could visualize how it would look on the mannequin.
Step 2 (right): Position the template to best match contours and desired location of the vag opening, then trace around the template onto the mannequin with a pencil. Here are the two tools I used for the next steps. Both are available at Lowes for about 3 bucks each. I didn't want to invest 80 bucks in a Dremel tool and I already had an electric drill, so I went with these drill bit tools which worked just fine. Step 3 (left): Using a standard 1/4" drill bit, drill holes about 1/2" apart leaving about 1/4" of material inside the sketch line. As you can see from the double sketch lines, I decided to move the vag location more to the rear, since she is being designed for rear stand-up sex.
Step 4 (right): Using the pointed grinding stone bit, I ground away the material between the holes and connected them to cut out the rough hole. Step 5 (left): Using the rotary file bit, I finished out the hole leaving about 1/8" of material inside the sketch line so that the toy would fit snugly. The rotary file tool worked like a charm. It removes just the right amount of material so you can keep a nice controlled line and it doesn't clog up with material like the grinding stone.
Step 6 (middle): Make a simple jig for holding the toy in place. Cut a 12" length of 1/2" diameter wood dowel and drill a small pilot hole in the end of it. Attach a 3/16 x 1 1/4 fender washer to the end of the dowel with a drywall screw.
Step 7 (right): Using the jig, test for fit of the toy and make any minor adjustments with the rotary file. Remove any remaining burrs or roughness with 150 grit sandpaper (and make sure you are wearing a dust mask btw!). Step 8: (left): In order to hold the toy in place, flexible foam is cast into the hip of the mannequin with the toy held in place with the jig. But first, cover the area around the hole on the mannequin and the toy with Saran Wrap. Saran Wrap is made from polyethylene and the foam will not stick to polyethylene. You can get the 3 quart plastic mixing bowls at Dollar Tree. Also make sure you put a plastic drop cloth down if you are working in a finished space (i.e. kitchen)
Step 9 (right): Quickly and thoroughly mix the foam and pour in through the vag hole. Insert the toy with the jig and position it as quickly as possible - you'll only have a few minutes before the foam rises and starts to firm up. I fashioned a spacer block out of some styrofoam packing to keep the toy positioned straight. As it turned out I didn't need the screw to hold it up - as the foam rises it starts to firm up and after a few minutes you can let go and it will not sink in. Make sure you have windows open and good ventilation when using the foam. To be continued...
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- JessiD
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
My "hole" (even though I don't like calling it that) was done entirely with a drill bit. It's kind of uneven, and we haven't gone around to smoothing it out yet, but it seems like my man isn't all that concerned about it. (After all, I am clothed almost all the time, except when he's changing my clothes, and, you know ... so maybe that's the reason why...) But it does get the job done.
So, one of these days, we're going to get the foam filler (someday) so we can have a little more enjoyment without taping a plastic bag, kind of diminishing the overall realistic-ness, but the plastic bag still will be used for the reason of easier clean up.
Keep us posted!
Jessi
I'm a Juggalette who's on Linux, bitch. I thought you GNU.
I was a PS-G5 plastic Mannequin from Roxy Display...
Now I'm an AMT-Mannequins SP-25 plastic mannequin. I'm back, bitches!
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
Hi Jessi, and thanks!JessiD wrote:Wow, MannequinFan! Nice job you're doing there with Sammie!
If your man finds the time, the rotary file really works very well and it's a very cheap tool ($3) if you already have a drill.JessiD wrote:My "hole" (even though I don't like calling it that) was done entirely with a drill bit. It's kind of uneven, and we haven't gone around to smoothing it out yet, but it seems like my man isn't all that concerned about it. (After all, I am clothed almost all the time, except when he's changing my clothes, and, you know ... so maybe that's the reason why...) But it does get the job done.
I used Smooth-On Flexfoam-It V flexible urethane foam. The trickiest thing with this product is that it starts foaming in just a little over a minute. You really have to move quickly when you are using this stuff. You also have to get it mixed really well or it may not foam up like it's supposed to. You have about 30 seconds to do that, lol. I also found that the 5 lb foam was much firmer than I expected and didn't fill nearly the volume that was advertised. The 2 lb trial kit should have been more than enough to fill up past the toy level but I ended up having to get a second trial kit to finish. If I did this again, I would probably go with the 3 lb foam and use a drill mixer for 15 seconds and finish mixing by hand for another 15 seconds. Since it was my first time using the product, it could be that I didn't get the foam mixed well enough.JessiD wrote:So, one of these days, we're going to get the foam filler (someday) so we can have a little more enjoyment without taping a plastic bag, kind of diminishing the overall realistic-ness, but the plastic bag still will be used for the reason of easier clean up.
MF
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- MannequinFan
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
Step 10 (left): First foam pour did not yield the volume that I expected, but overall it worked pretty well. I put baby powder on the toy before wrapping in Saran Wrap, so it was easy to remove. The remaining Saran Wrap peeled right off of the foam leaving a nice cast of the toy. You can also see why it is important to cover the surrounding area with Saran Wrap. Things can get a little sloppy when you are in a hurry to get the foam poured in.
Step 11 (right): The toy was re-wrapped in Saran Wrap and inserted in place, then I mixed up half of the new trial kit of foam in a plastic cup and poured it in the leg hole to finish the foam fill. In this pic the Saran Wrap was removed after the final foam pour. Here is the toy installed. I was amazed at how closely the contours of the toy matched the mannequin. Mckenzie Lee must have had her legs in about the same position when she was molded. Step 12: The next step was to give her a little "cameltoe" with epoxy putty to help blend the toy into the mannequin. I also needed to pick a paint color that would closely match the toy color. The color shown in right pic is Behr Premium Plus Ultra 230F-4 Autumn Malt which is available from Home Depot. The plan is to do the genital area with this color as the genital area tends to be slightly darker than the normal skin tone. Here is the epoxy putty that I used. It gives an excellent working time (15-20 minutes) and it cures fully in about an hour. I have to thank Beardygoat for his suggestion of the epoxy putty idea. Thanks Beardygoat! JB Weld also makes Kwik Plastik which would work as well, it's a little cheaper but it takes longer to cure.
Both are available at Home Depot or Lowes.
Step 13: To give further detail to the genital area I decided to give her a sphincter with the epoxy putty. I simply used a Philips screwdriver to mold the shape in the putty. Also to seal the foam in case any "nasties" get in there, I brushed some Plasti Dip on the foam with a cheap chip brush. This stuff works great, but be sure to have windows open and plenty of ventilation because the fumes are strong. I plan on doing some wetlook photography with her so I wanted to make sure the foam is sealed. I got the Plasti Dip at Ace Hardware. Well that's where I am for now on Sammie's mods. The next step is to get her new additions painted and give her some tan lines!
I hope this information helps in choosing the tools and materials to modify your mannequins.
More to come later.
MF
My Blog-> mfcreations3d.blogspot.com ... Easy Move Eyes™
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- narcissus
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
Sammie's pussy is... perfect! Looks natural in that position with that fit.
You are a fucking pro and will be many people's hero now!
Can't wait to see how the tan lines are done. Tan lines are so sexy!
- MannequinFan
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
This has been a fun little project to work on since I've been unemployed since September of last year. It hasn't cost that much and it's been a way to keep my creative juices flowing. My background is in art and architecture so I really need to be creative to keep from going insane, lol.
Me too!narcissus wrote:Can't wait to see how the tan lines are done.
Actually I'm experimenting with some painting techniques today. I think it's going to involve sponge application and stippling with a cut-off chip brush or something like that. We shall see how it goes.
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GOOD JOB!!!
- MannequinFan
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
I'm painting an empty box of Stouffers lasagne.
Testing out some techniques. The Quickie sponges are working quite well - looks almost like it's been spray painted.
These are real cheap, got them at the grocery store. The tricky part will be making the lighter skin color fade softly to make realistic tan lines. I'm hoping that if I stipple with very little paint on the cut-off chip brush it will appear to fade out - we shall see.
MF
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- MannequinFan
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
I sponge applied both colors at the same time and blended them together wet. This way they both dried at the same time and formed a nice even sheen with a nice soft transition. The brush stipple technique didn't work so well.
The darker skin color is Behr Premium Plus Ultra 230F-4 Autumn Malt, the light skin color is Behr Premium Plus Ultra UL 130-9 Pumpkin Cream. Now I just have to make this work on Sammie.
My Blog-> mfcreations3d.blogspot.com ... Easy Move Eyes™
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- MannequinFan
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
The Autumn Malt (darker skin color) was perfect but the Pumpkin Cream color was photographing too strong yellow.
So I went with a 1:1 mix of both colors for the light skin color.
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- Guitar Boy
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
Such attention to detail... I love it!
I cannot wait to see the final results.
Should be spectacular!
GB
Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
MannequinFan wrote:Taylr, thanks so much for the nipple manufacturer link. I bookmarked it.
Indeed they are the most realistic I have seen as well. As far as attaching/adhering them to the mannequin, do you have any suggestions or guidelines?
Thanks again
MF
If you get the self-adhesive nipples I wouldn't bother with anything, assuming you will not put her through a simulated gang-rape. They should hold on well. If not the self-adhesive, then I would use the temp glue that they make available for skin attachment.
Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
I agree with all of the above, especially the dust mask. A painting cup mask will not do the job, trust me. The dust from working with fiberglas is very fine and will cause major problems. Most of the refinishers I know do not use filtering masks, but I do, and I wear goggles, as well. Protecting oneself is most important.Krule World wrote:having used power tools on fiberglass (including a mannequin) first thing you should buy is a dust mask. the dust is not only toxic, but carcinogenic.
looking at saws and stuff, get blades designed for metal, as the wood stuff is too coarse.
also a dremel rotary tool is a useful too, i've got one for my toy building, and it saves a lot of elbow grease.
- MannequinFan
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Re: Tools for modifying MQ's
I have a couple of other questions for you if you would be so kind. I emailed Roxy Display with these but they may not be of much help:
Sammie's eyelashes weren't really very well done. How would I get them off and what type of glue should I use to re-attach?
Also I've noticed that the arms seem to be designed to be rotated some at the shoulder joint. The hook appears to have a disk type of affair (red arrow) mounted to the metal plate. It would be nice to be able to move her arms some for a slightly different look. I don't want to break the joints so I thought I would ask someone with experience on this before I go moving the arms. Thanks again Taylr for all your valuable info.
MF
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