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Puma Uma,
This is exactly what I am expecting. To reduce the tightness of the shoulder rotation would require some major cutting along the top of the shoulder, which I am not going to do. Even at that, I'm not sure you can get to the rotation point as easily as the hip.
My part arrives tomorrow. Will post results.
And I plan on keeping the arm up against her side before rotating it. No exceptions. Just having her arm slightly (a couple of inches) away from her body is what brought on this repair.
I have had her for over a year and will not make that mistake again.
Jiayi
So there's no bolt on the skeleton i can loosen up? My issue is moving her arm flexion it's really tight when i move it forward (as seen on this photo) and backwards.
Attachments
Terms-of-Movement-Flexion-and-Extension-CC-1024x815.jpg (68.77 KiB) Viewed 747 times
The hinge that allows the shoulder to move up and down is pretty easy to get to, just a simple hex nut in front of the shoulder, but untightening the backward / forward portion was too difficult when I opened up my own doll. I couldn't even figure out what to loosen after reviewing the DS skeleton photos, and seeing the skeleton up close didn't help either.
In general I always preferred the loose joints due to how fluid they are, but with some work even if you have tight joints on a DS doll they can be loosened up to prevent unneeded joint breaking (hips and shoulder in particular).
I easily got to the nut on the front of the shoulder, but i only managed to lossen the arm/shoulder in the abduction movement. I suppose my options are to deal with this or just get another doll will loose joints in the future.
This show how the shoulder side of that joint is constructed. The nut that sets the tension for the Flexion/Extension movement is INSIDE the tube that forms the shoulder bone. The Red in the drawing is the large hex nut you can see on the end of that tube, which is spot welded to clock it in place. Unless you want to remove the shoulder tube from the body, drill out the spot weld and then work on removing the nylon socket unit from the tube, there really is no way to loosen that joint off. You may have some luck with adding a little silicone lube spray to it and letting it seep in to the joint, but theres no guarantees
Karrot wrote:Sorry for the crappy MSPaint drawing but....
Shoulder detail.jpg
This show how the shoulder side of that joint is constructed. The nut that sets the tension for the Flexion/Extension movement is INSIDE the tube that forms the shoulder bone. The Red in the drawing is the large hex nut you can see on the end of that tube, which is spot welded to clock it in place. Unless you want to remove the shoulder tube from the body, drill out the spot weld and then work on removing the nylon socket unit from the tube, there really is no way to loosen that joint off. You may have some luck with adding a little silicone lube spray to it and letting it seep in to the joint, but theres no guarantees
Karrot
I worry about using silicone lube inside a silicone doll, I have heard they react.
PTFE (teflon) lube might be a good choice however, its very inert and has good compatibility with basically all materials.
Every day people remind me why I like dolls better.
Karrot,
You have confirmed what I suspected. You would need to remove the collar bone to access the tension. Even then it's not an easy job. As I stated earlier, the hip joint tension pc (for rotation of the entire leg) was machine screwed into the hip tube, so I was able to remove it and re-adjust it.
My pcs just arrived. I may be repairing her tomorrow.
Jiayi
