Kayla doll arm complete snap

puma uma · Post by **puma uma** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:19 am

I barely used my DS doll other than for photos . I was setting up for photos and her arm just snapped like it was nothing. I know her joints were way too over tightened when i got her. Any idea how i can fix this is this even fixable?

Just curious if DS doll will send me a new *bone* the repair looks relatively simple to be honest.

puma uma · Post by **puma uma** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:26 am

Sorry for the small photo i don't want to cut deeper until i do the repair. Welding isn't much of an option for me i have little experience with it. But i am curious if all i need to do is just change out the metal bone. I looked at the skeleton on DS doll website and the break happened right below the joint.

I'm not pissed just bummed i couldn't finish my photo shoot. As far as i do know she's not under warranty. I got her used from another member fairly new.

Mishka1965 · Post by **Mishka1965** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 10:35 am

Sorry to hear that. I know how it feels when it happens, especially during photo taking, and you're being careful.

I was lucky with my JM, as their joints are removable. In your case, a solution must must from DS and I would ask them for a repair guidance.

Mishka

Karrot · Post by **Karrot** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 11:07 am

Sorry to hear this Puma

Is is the shoulder join that broken? It looks like it could be the weld at the top of the shoulder that welds the bracket to the pin that allows rotation. Both the upper arm and the shoulder employ the same mechanism. It's very likely the same as Xiaoli's hip break, though the brackets are different for the shoulder joint itself. if you look at the end of the tube that has the break you should see a large hex head, this will need to be unscrewed from the tube to remove the nut from the end of the pin and remove the pin, then you can insert the replacement piece, tighten the nut to set the tension, then screw the whole unit back in to the arm tube. (assuming the weld has snapped at the top of the arm, not on the shoulder)

Here's a larger shoulder pic.

: sk001.jpg (68 KiB) Viewed 3084 times

This is a hip joint, but the conical socket and pin are likely to be the same

: DSC02644.JPG (41.15 KiB) Viewed 3084 times

Xiaoli's broken hip, im surmising that you have a similar failure at the shoulder

: Failed Hip Joint2.jpg (50.11 KiB) Viewed 3084 times

My solution, replace the pin with a bolt

: IMG_3426.JPG (110.51 KiB) Viewed 3084 times

My solution is not perfect, the hip rotation is very loose now, far looser than it was when I first sealer her back up. My suggestion would be to get a replacement from John at DS and repair it properly. He's usually pretty good if you contact him on their sales Email.

Karrot

SiliconeWorld · Post by **SiliconeWorld** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 11:11 am

Heartbreaking injury for Kayla! Here's to a quick repair .

puma uma · Post by **puma uma** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 2:00 pm

Yea i forgot about the time difference over there. I'm just waiting on him to message me back. He asked for a better photo i did the best i could i just don't want to cut all the way deep yet. The injury is just right below the shoulder. I would assume i would just need to replace the whole upper half of the arm correct?

Karrot · Post by **Karrot** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 2:45 pm

If its the pin in to the upper arm thats gone it could be just a case of replacing the bracket/pin assembly, but thats assuming the socket can be removed from the upper arm bone. DS may locktight it in or something. At that point it would be the upper arm bone from elbow to shoulder.

Karrot

dollylamma · Post by **dollylamma** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 2:50 pm

So sorry to hear good luck
DL

haremlover · Post by **haremlover** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 2:52 pm

DS are usually top rate for many things and especially looking after one of their girls. Having had a TPE lady for so long we all know that you're an experienced and careful doll owner who's not handled her badly.

You're going to have to cut in quite wide to do this. When replacing, cut along the seam and don't do it too short. You've probably seen Chloé's operations that I posted. ( http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 97#p936297 ) If the shoulder seam cut is too short then the silicone can split - so it's better to go longer.

Were I to be doing that operation again and in less of a hurry I'd use less silicone and do it in stages. Jeff at BTC uses staples to keep the wound together for the lower layers and then I recommend clingfilm for the final stage.

Wipe with acetone before gluing.

Best wishes

Harem

puma uma · Post by **puma uma** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 4:21 pm

Removed the broken part from Kayla here's what i got. Clear snap, so i would assume i just need to replace the whole upper hal fof the arm Karrot?

Karrot · Post by **Karrot** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 4:54 pm

Thats down to DS as to what they feel is necessary. it looks like both sides of the bracket snapped off

so, er, holy FUCK!

Looking at the top of the arm 'bone' where the snap occured there is a hex nut on the end of the tube. Yoiu might be able to unscrew that from the tube (might, dont know if DS lock it on there). once thats out, you will be able to access the nut that holds the chamfered pin in place. This is what sets the tension on that rotation (which is actually the elbow left-right rotation in this case).

If that hex is locked on then DS must threadlock it at the factory which would make sense, you wouldnt want it unscrewing if it had less tension than the joint itself. If it is threadlocked then you will need to replace the entire upper arm 'bone'

Karrot

puma uma · Post by **puma uma** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 5:24 pm

I made a small attempt to unscrew the hex, but it wasn't going anywhere. I'm gonna leave her alone for now and just wait hopefully they will send me another part so i can repair her.

samara78 · Post by **samara78** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 5:33 pm

You can do this. Usually ypu cut atthe seams all youneed to remove the parts are 2 cheap wratcheting socket sets .
And a set of allen wrenches.once removed the can send parts. Take out any nuts and bolts you find in there.
Lay them out in proper order for photos.
Send the photos to john. And/or post here

puma uma · Post by **puma uma** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 5:53 pm

samara78 wrote:You can do this. Usually ypu cut atthe seams all youneed to remove the parts are 2 cheap wratcheting socket sets .
And a set of allen wrenches.once removed the can send parts. Take out any nuts and bolts you find in there.
Lay them out in proper order for photos.
Send the photos to john. And/or post here

Yup already on that just waiting on John for the part. I just hate waiting

Post by **jiayi** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 5:59 pm

Hi Puma,
The top of my DS 168 upper arm broke.

Not exactly like yours, but close. Her right side shoulder and right side hip were tightened way too much. The hip broke after a year and the arm a few months after that. The hip was inevitable, but the arm was because I didn't bring the upper part completely to her side before trying to rotate it forward. Even so, the shoulder was tightened too much on her right side.

I cut down the inside of her upper arm and removed the pieces. The elbow bolt would spin, but refused to screw or be pulled out. I finally had to resort to a hammer. A bit awkward as the nut was towards the outside of her arm. The hole in the brackets and center washer did not line up. Once I removed the pc, I aligned the bolt hole with a round file.

John is sending me a new part for the cost of shipping ~$60.

Unfortunately there is no way to loosen her shoulder rotation without a major cutting job, which I refuse to do. The hip adjustment was much easier.

You cannot just weld the break, as the tube holds a rotating pin and teflon bushing that allows her arm to rotate along its length. Unlike the hip jount, this bushing assembly is spot welded to the tube. The hip was a machine screw affair that could be disassembled. Yah I could grind away the spot welds and remove the bushing assembly, weld the broken part and then re spot weld the bushing assembly, but heck I've all ready had to deal with the hip, which I completely did myself, welding, machine work and all.

Here are some pics. Let me know if I can help with more info. BTW I ordered more Permatex flowable windshield sealant from Amazon. $5.00 and free shipping on Prime.