Removal/ Replacement: "Breast Enhancement" Chapter 3

SC Kline · Post by **SC Kline** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:21 am

So I have some very important updates regarding my enhancement saga... As those who've been following these posts know, I increased the volume of my doll's breasts by roughly 30% in the first procedure, and everything was great (except for shoddy-looking melt repair). Then, I went back in for a second enlargement procedure expanding volume even more, which ended up being about a 60 to 70% increase from doll's original size. This second procedure was too much, evidenced by stretch tears that I began noticing on the above flatter areas of breasts (below collarbones). The tearing was not as deep as the wall, and there were no leaks... What I had/ still have are surface stress tears that look like little shallow craters. Although these surface tears are not as bad as they sound, and can only really be seen when I powder the areas, I was concerned enough to remove filling product (slime) because, of course, the TPE was too taught and stressed to hold that much extra weight. It would be an understatement to tell you that I was disappointed... Actually, I may have been able to leave it all alone and still be alright (for a while), but given enough time and use, those tears would've inevitably turned into something a lot worse.

I took old product out and decided to go with latex paint and surgical gloves. The combination came out to about 70/30 (70% paint, 30% gloves). I put the gloves in first, and used an extended funnel to add paint. Things worked out great, and I have about the same jiggle as before. The volume of breasts is a little less than what I had after my first procedure (Dixie Bubbles). So a few reflections/ reminders:

* I still stand by the slime; just not for an extreme enlargement, as this is too much added weight. When I removed the slime, it was just as viscus as when I put it in —totally fine.
* I've found that the paint's volume/ weight ratio is a bit better/ lighter than that of the slime.
* It is important to remember that I've been dealing with an ultra-soft TPE doll, and still got relatively sound results —even with such extreme enlargement. There is also the possibility that some of those "stress craters" I saw were actually always present, but just became more pronounced upon enlargement. I chose to take the safe route to avert any permanent damage. In other words, I pushed things about as far as possible and the doll's TPE integrity hadn't really diminished.
* Please do not mistake my last point as a kind of scolding or course attitude... Take it as a strong warning coming from a guy who does not want you to so much as even risk ruining your doll: Do not enter from sides or bottom of breasts, or anywhere near them! I did this with my 155cm DD and it was awful and near impossible. The doll should be face down and "floated" in a way that allows the material on back to be bunched together, and breasts to dangle freely and unobstructed. When you enter cavities through the back, you have the benefit of a roughly 3" vertical canal to work with. This distance and gravity will ensure that you will not experience any surprise "flow-back." You can either trust me or not on this.
* Soldering. Please pay intense attention to the following: The soldering repair is a two-part procedure, i, e, "the fault," and "the surface." You cannot simply weld over the surface to properly close the incisions... I tried this and ended up with a slime bubble the size of a grape when the doll had been sitting up for a few hours —too thin of a TPE layer. You must gather up as much material as you can in your fingers by pinching on both sides of incision (gently), while inserting the tip of iron in the fault at least 1/2", making sure that you've contacted both walls from end to end. Remove iron quickly while pinching and holding fault together for at least 3 minutes. Let the iron cool completely and clean the excess char off of it with some sort of course-surfaced sponge, as you do not want to transfer that char back to the doll (like I did). Repeat fault repair and tip-cleaning on your other incision. For a proper surface repair/ smooth-over, refer to the videos/info that Anung posted in my previous threads.
* Filler materials. Do not use anything oil-based, as that oil will eventually pass through the TPE. You want to use "emulsions" that are either water or polymer-based. I believe that these will be fine provided that there is a minimal amount of air left over in the cavity. Whether you're filling to simply compensate breast cavities or expanding volume, there will be no need at all to use tubes or anything else to get air out during process. It will happen on its own. You can add any number of small, repetitive/ mixed items to your "fluid filler" to reduce weight, i, e, small, hollow beads, rubber gloves, etc. Always just keep in mind how a ball joint works... It's suspended in grease, and only "acts" when there is enough pressure. In other words, You should really maintain more of the "fluid filler" than that of the solid additions so that the breasts stay soft enough while maintaining retention.

So in closing, I think that there is not much more to explain. I believe that I've exhibited how TPE doll owners may enjoy the same —if not better— realism for a lot less cost than silicone alternatives. I hope that many of you try this procedure, as it will most certainly bring a substantial increase of joy to your lives.

stones · Post by **stones** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:31 am

Thank you for the detailed advice and updates, you are a true scientist of breast expansion and realism!

EBmoist · Post by **EBmoist** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:39 am

thank you for the update

Kumasiusa · Post by **Kumasiusa** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:43 am

very cool project with great results..
one question : are you concerned at all about springing a leak somewhere and getting that paint all over?

SC Kline · Post by **SC Kline** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 11:01 am

Kumasiusa wrote:very cool project with great results..
one question : are you concerned at all about springing a leak somewhere and getting that paint all over?

no

SC Kline · Post by **SC Kline** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 11:43 am

Well hell... There a few more important tips that I just thought of... Ventilation. If you must preform this procedure in doors, go in the bathroom, as you will either have an overhead exhaust or a window in there. Simply having a window open will not be enough. You will need to rig a fan to pull that smoke out through the window if you do not have the exhaust fan.
It would also be helpful to wrap/ cover any nearby areas of the doll, i, e, lower-back, biceps, and shoulders (I burnt a shoulder you know). Also very important: Get yourself some double-sided tape and use it to secure the pan you'll be resting soldering iron in to whatever surface you're working from. You'd be unpleasantly surprised at how easy it is for the damned power cord to sort of wanna drag that iron and pan somewhere else after you set it down. I know this is common-sense stuff, but my dumbass is a perfect example of how the impulse to create big tits can subvert one's attention away from the proper precautionary steps. OK, enjoy your weekends...

rev · Post by **rev** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 4:49 pm

i have already added around 2kg of slime into one of the breasts of the YL150
i made the slime myself with only three ingredients (no chemicals)
the constistence of the slime felt almost the same as the stuff found in the Busty Aichan boobs.

this method is a lot less pain in the ass that yours seems to be lol
atleast on this doll
just make a small hole on the top side of the breast.
first press all the air out
use a piping bag and put the slime in.
go for one of the smallest tip so that the slime will pass through when you press.

then you just add it
i used around 2.1kg and the result with this doll is
no added drop to the breast with the slime in it!
(thats just speaks that the dollbody can handle this extra weight without problems)
its more the opposite
when you fill the breast with slime instead of air you get back the proper shape.
the breast with the slime is slight bigger on top with less sag.

no more hollowness!
added weight! which is more realistic for this size i think.
and it jiggles around much more now because of the added weight.
its not as soft as the Busty Aichan but the feeling is almost the same now.

im waiting for TPU Glue now so i can seal that small hole
then i will do the next breast.

about 4-5KG is added to the doll so it should be up to 40kg now.

the easy way

(Breast to the Left with its 2.1Kg slime and less sag)

One Note:
When people speaks about that these breasts of the YL150 will soften up with time
yes they do but thats only because some air gets out with time and you will have even more hollowness to them.

stones · Post by **stones** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 5:12 pm

Interesting - that is much bigger and rounder looking!

rev · Post by **rev** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 5:14 pm

stones wrote:Interesting - that is much bigger and rounder looking!

yes its more back to its original shape
the TPE itself is not streched.
its just more material in them and no air now

and as you can see from the photo
the breast with slime points more in the right direction now than the other

SC Kline · Post by **SC Kline** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 5:52 pm

Rev, congrats on this!! I'm glad you're happy with your results; and ultimately, that's all that matters. What is the stuff you used specifically to make your filler? Also, I agree about the popular misconception of breasts getting softer with time... It really is just a slow collapsing due to escaping air.

rev · Post by **rev** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 6:18 pm

the recip is really simple and cheap.

2.5 tablespoons potato flour
3 dl cold water
A few drops of rape oil or 1 tablespoon of glycerin (available at pharmacies)

then for 2.1L take all x7

put the potato flour in the water and wisk
boil it up and wisk all the time until the reaction comes when it becomes slime
add some rape oil and let it cool down
done

yes it seems that this doll was made for this mod.

39 views already on the photo!?
i think people crave for bigger breasts LOL

rev · Post by **rev** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:01 pm

btw the hole i made is so small so even now the slime doesnt leak out.
i could probably leave it here but i will use TPE Glue anyway
compared to the huge rips you made lol
this is nothing

the TPE streches alot so a small hole is only whats needed
the tip on the piping bag was bigger but it was no problem to get through the smaller hole without tearing it up.
so no worry that the TPE will break here.

CF · Post by CF » Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:11 pm

rev, that sounds very interesting! Looking forward to additional photos - please try to document the process while it is underway, and then share photos of what the breasts look like from different angles.

Great experimentation, gentlemen!

rev · Post by **rev** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:30 pm

CF
you can say that the boobs (well left boob for now) on the YL150 are more like this now

CF · Post by CF » Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:47 pm

I love that woman! Here is her Youtube channel, if you need it: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPYmqM ... rJg/videos

Really, really appreciate your careful description of the process. A lot of folks will be using this as a guide to enlarge their own dolls, and this wil help tremendously.

Looking forward to seeing the "during" and "after" enlargement pictures!

P.S. To get another sense of the transformation, I flipped the photo and laid it against a copy. Your pictures will do a lot better job of telling the story, but maybe this will help us get an idea of what it looks like until then.