Study topic: Silicone skin. Silicone on cloth

rubherkitty · Post by **rubherkitty** » Fri Dec 19, 2014 10:55 am

I don't think I could make a skin that thin. I'm looking at 1/4" thick at a minimum. This should hide seams as well as less than perfect internal joints and stuffing.

The skeleton and internals may be: PVC wrapped w/ foam and some poly fill micro beads floating inside to fill any gaps that may develop.

The only thing that would not be skin is the head and hands which would be molded silicone. The fabric for skin would need to be sewn all as one piece from feet to neck to sleeves. Of course this would mean that mannequin would be stuck inside! LOL. Sounds like a waist seam or back zipper is a must. It may be possible to coat the pant and shirt piece separate leaving the joint edge bare. Sew the edges together the apply silicone to cover the seam. I actually like this idea as I may have to do some internal work for the vaginal canal. May be able to make anal as well?

The neck could be silpoxied to the head. Same w/ the wrist cuffs to the hands.

ETA: Just got done doing a fold compression test on my test piece.
Folded the piece in half at the thickest part and placed on the counter top. Layed a full sized solid brick on top of that for 1 hour. It deformed the silicone a little, but within 15 seconds of massaging the area it was fine. PASS!
I can't see where anyone would fold and pinch the material this tight for over an hour.

Tybalt · Post by **Tybalt** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 2:54 am

I could have sworn you or some one by the name OpenDollDesign came up with this idea a year ago. He was thinking of buying a cheapo mannequin, buy a zentai suite. Paint that skin tight suite in silicone, and then stuff it and viola! cheapo sex doll!

rubherkitty · Post by **rubherkitty** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 5:33 am

Yes, OpenDD is a big proponent of this idea. He did kindly provide an in depth idea/plan on how to make a silicone skin. Can't say such a thing is his sole idea though. Silicone impregnated cloth has been around for quite a few yrs. I'm sure the idea has probably been discussed on TDF longer before he or I ever joined.

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 4:27 pm

I think I've probably posted this more than once before, but here's a video from Smooth-On showing how to make a realistic skin.
They are using 2 layers of a stretch fabric called "Powermesh" - looks like you can get this stuff at Joann Fabric
http://www.joann.com/performance-fabric ... sh&start=6

Looks like the stuff is pretty strong when sewn together. If you look close to the end of the video (10:00) they stretch it out pretty hard and it doesn't tear.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6HdZpXdEiM

rubherkitty · Post by **rubherkitty** » Wed Dec 24, 2014 7:18 pm

Thanks
Never actually watched the skin making video. Interesting.

The powermesh appears to be available in different "thread count". I would need a powermesh w/a high enough thread count to sew, but loose enough to allow the silicone to pass through. The mesh in the skin making tutorial is like netting so I don't think that would work to sew a body skin anyway.

I also noticed on the video at 10:20 it looks like you can still see the grain of the powermesh. I think it still probably best that a solid layer of silicone be applied to the mannequin body if possible. Of course this is true for probably any fabric a person uses.

I used Eco 10 and it is very soft and flexible. I see no problem w/ using the "inside out over a mannequin" method of making the skin for the majority of the body. My test piece has the memory of a soggy overcooked noodle. Of course it was cast flat, but I think even on most rounded or curved contours it can be turned inside out and will actually require a somewhat firm filling to keep it's shape whether it was inside out or not.
The butt crack, camel toe, nipples, belly button may have to be saved for last and silicone applied on the outside?

RK
PS: I have more "issues" in life again I have to deal w/ so I'm really going to have to ween myself away from TDF for awhile.

r363b · Post by **r363b** » Fri Jul 31, 2015 8:10 am

rubherkitty wrote:
I'm studying a lot of different things. Not a guarantee I will ever make any of them.

rubherkitty--in your opinion, do you think a 'copy-cat fleshlight insert' could be made this way (silicon and fabric) with a softer silicone .. such that the fabric and silicon would not de-laminate with use? A fleshlight when used is not stretched very much but abrasion/rubbing is more of a factor.

I know this is an old post .. but this post is the most informative on cloth and silicon based on your experiments.

rubherkitty · Post by **rubherkitty** » Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:25 am

Yes, a silicone & fabric insert can be made. Actually, there is already one on the market called a "siliplush" or something like that. Used w/ plush dolls. These are thinned walled since you have the doll body to control the outer pressure. If the silicone is cast too thick, it kind of defeats the purpose of using cloth.

If I was ever going to design a silicone & fabric ( let's christen thee Sil-Fab) skinned fiber filled doll, I would try to mold the labia right onto the doll and incorporate a built in sil-fab vaginal canal.

broadfall · Post by **broadfall** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 2:35 am

Im not sure if it was mentioned already but the ecoflex series can be sprayed. I use 00-50 for paint with an air brush.
A cheap harbor freight detail gun will work. I dilute x 400 with half novox matte and 1/2 mineral spirits. set a time and every 4 minutes stop spraying and use a small amount of acetone through the gun. first pour in a small amount spray a bit then you will see pigment and small clumps floating . just dump it out and pour in some more acetone. this keeps the gun clean . low psi 25lbs. if it is drying really fast and is stringy the psi is too high.

samara78 · Post by **samara78** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 3:16 am

Any thoughts on doing silicone spray on silk fibers? Just spraying it on there. I think a medium thick silk scarve would work, I imagine. ..

r363b · Post by **r363b** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 5:41 am

broadfall wrote:Im not sure if it was mentioned already but the ecoflex series can be sprayed. I use 00-50 for paint with an air brush.
A cheap harbor freight detail gun will work. I dilute x 400 with half novox matte and 1/2 mineral spirits. set a time and every 4 minutes stop spraying and use a small amount of acetone through the gun. first pour in a small amount spray a bit then you will see pigment and small clumps floating . just dump it out and pour in some more acetone. this keeps the gun clean . low psi 25lbs. if it is drying really fast and is stringy the psi is too high.

This could be a good idea as a lower cost silicone doll (less silicone used) .. spray on a tight weave non-stretch fabric doll stuffed with fiber-fil. Instead of using a detail spray gun use a larger size spray gun ( http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high ... 47016.html ) for more coverage http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... +paint+gun

.. I guess you would need multiple light coats to get the right thickness to cover the fabric threads and seams for a smooth "skin".

rubherkitty · Post by **rubherkitty** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:28 am

Why would you apply stretchy silicone on non stretch fabric?
I wouldn't go with real stretchy polyester/ spandex, but maybe a cotton/ poly blend.
Cotton to keep the dolls shape and poly to allow a little flex? Just guessing.

I'm also thinking a loose weave material will allow the silicone to bond. If the silicone is only on the surface chances are it may peel off. Penetration will depend upon how thin the silicone is diluted, how much the fabric is stretched, etc. Probably have to experiment to find the right combo.

r363b · Post by **r363b** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 11:55 am

rubherkitty wrote:Why would you apply stretchy silicone on non stretch fabric?
I wouldn't go with real stretchy polyester/ spandex, but maybe a cotton/ poly blend.
Cotton to keep the dolls shape and poly to allow a little flex? Just guessing.

I'm also thinking a loose weave material will allow the silicone to bond. If the silicone is only on the surface chances are it may peel off. Penetration will depend upon how thin the silicone is diluted, how much the fabric is stretched, etc. Probably have to experiment to find the right combo.

Thinking that a non stretch fabric would prevent deformation of the doll's shape and the "lumpy" appearance after stuffing with fiber-fil .. but a little stretch might also work just the same. The Meiki plush is made of non stretch material and looks good stuffed with fiber-fill .. without any "lumps" and it holds it's shape without shifting of the fiber-fil.

I was thinking of spraying the silicone directly on a doll already made and stuffed in it's final shape. A loose weave definition to me was more like a netting weave .. tight weave to me is more like cotton or denim. Your cotton poly blend idea makes since allowing a little flex when you move doll's arms and legs.

Just thinking out loud, and like you said .. experimentation will prove the right combo.

rubherkitty · Post by **rubherkitty** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 8:19 pm

Yes, if you already have a doll pre-shaped and stuffed just spray it on.

I guess I was thinking about buying a cat suit or long underwear sewn together, etc. Most clothing does not have a pattern & sewn shape like a doll, but relies on the wearer to give it a shape. That's why I figured on buying something a little too small and stuffing it tight. You don't want any part of the material baggy & saggy.

r363b · Post by **r363b** » Fri Aug 21, 2015 2:54 am

broadfall wrote:Im not sure if it was mentioned already but the ecoflex series can be sprayed. I use 00-50 for paint with an air brush.
A cheap harbor freight detail gun will work. I dilute x 400 with half novox matte and 1/2 mineral spirits. set a time and every 4 minutes stop spraying and use a small amount of acetone through the gun. first pour in a small amount spray a bit then you will see pigment and small clumps floating . just dump it out and pour in some more acetone. this keeps the gun clean . low psi 25lbs. if it is drying really fast and is stringy the psi is too high.

broadfall's paint formula with silicone diluted with novox matte and mineral spirits:

.. ecoflex 00-50 http://www.smooth-on.com/Platinum-Cure- ... index.html (2 lb trial kit $30)

.. novox matte http://www.reynoldsam.com/product/novocs/ (pint $16)

.. mineral spirits

After a little re-thinking, this could be a very, very thin coat of silicone on the fabric and even with several spray coats may not give the needed thickness to hide the seams and fabric's weave. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqNQonhw7uM

rubherkitty · Post by **rubherkitty** » Fri Aug 21, 2015 9:37 am

You could always start w/a thinner mix to penetrate the fibers for adhesion then move to a thicker mix for build up coats.
Also ecoflex has different viscosity's. Eco 10 is the softest and also the thickest. It's like honey.
You would also have no need for the Novox until the final coats.