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A different approach to internal heating

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Jimjam
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Re: A different approach to internal heating

Post by Jimjam »

CharlieWone wrote:Just keep in mind one basic issue- silicone does not transfer heat with any efficiency whatsoever.
My idea was to build a doll with a foam core and a thick latex skin, say maybe 5mm thick. No silicone. The foam would need to be hollowed out in certain parts (breasts, inner thighs, belly, buttocks and around the pussy) so you would have a half inch gap between the foam and the outer skin where the water would run. Therefore, the heated water would be right in contact with the skin surface, making heat transfer possible. A waterproof, closed cell foam would need to be used. Two part soft pour foam is available. The middle of the chest, the 'ribcage' i suppose, would be hollowed out to make room to install an aquarium heater and a submersible pump. If these were installed just behind the breast area, possible access could be acheived from the neck for replacement. I already have ideas on how to do this.

The max temp of an aquarium heater is 35 degrees celcius - - not quite a human 37 but close enough.

Think about it, women are not soft all over. Poke your ribs - pretty firm, right? The same with outer thighs, much firmer than inner thighs. The same with the back - not much give. These areas would remain foam. Most of the pelvis would be foam, exept where you hollow out for the pussy and part of the belly area.

Of course only the areas with the water jacket would be successfully heated - - but think about it. Does she need to be warm all over? Think about sinking between those soft, squishy WARM legs and pussy - nothin' else would matter much.

Lets think about those key areas again - - breasts, inner thighs, belly, buttocks and pussy. If the latex skin was thick enough and the water jacket was thin enough, about half an inch is all that would be needed, i believe this would act close to real flesh - a deadpan fleshy liquid wobble and not the elastic 'snap' that you tend to get from silicone.

Take a womans breasts - they are almost liquid - the way they flatten out when she's laying on her back, the softest, most beautifully squishy things you will ever lay your hands on - silicone breasts are simply not like that.

And then there's the tactile quality of latex - simply wonderful. You don't need to keep powdering it like silicone. Power once, and it remains completely tack free for a very long time. Very very good mimic of human skin.

I guess it's really quite hard to express in so many words the complexities of my idea, but i hope you get the general idea.

Jimjam.

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Jimjam
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Re: A different approach to internal heating

Post by Jimjam »

ARK ANGEL wrote: I mentioned something similar in another similar thread.http://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtopi ... 6&start=30
Yes, i read bits of that thread, definately some interesting ideas for sure. Warming the inner core to about 60 deg so the outer skin reaches 37 deg is one of them. The thermal strip idea has its drawbacks - namely external scarring. Yes the heated Mechadoll. Waaaay out of my price range.

I just realised - - this thread has been going since 2001! We must be a contender for the Guiness Book of Worlds Records! :haha4:

Krule World
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Re: A different approach to internal heating

Post by Krule World »

internal heating would need to be included in the actual design of the doll from the start. it sounds a lot like the method Mythbusters used to simulate blood constriction from overly tight jeans (tubes that run around the silicone body).
Jerry wrote:We got a bedwarmer... it is an electric sheet that fits over the mattress.
I got a heated wrap. it's designed to be plugged in and wrapped around the person, rather than lying flat on a bed.

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Re: A different approach to internal heating

Post by Flipmade »

I re-sewed a heat blanket to make one long sock, which never overlaps and protects the wires inside. Attached that to a skeleton of copper and steel, covered in foam muscles. The metal seems to disperse the heat evenly.

So what I'm gathering is...uh...did I basically make a flammable death trap for myself?

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Re: A different approach to internal heating

Post by ARK ANGEL »

Mercutio wrote:I re-sewed a heat blanket to make one long sock, which never overlaps and protects the wires inside. Attached that to a skeleton of copper and steel, covered in foam muscles. The metal seems to disperse the heat evenly.

So what I'm gathering is...uh...did I basically make a flammable death trap for myself?
To be sure, you would need a built in RCD, and a thermal cut out circuit as well as a voltage limited variable resistor type thermostat, all of which can be retro fitted, but in your case I'd just limit the voltage, sacrificing some heat for safety, and besides a catastrophic failure, should be safe.

Pete.

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Jerry
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Re: A different approach to internal heating

Post by Jerry »

Heat will transfer in silicone albeit very slowly. That is the trick for an internal source... that aa air cools the outside skin,,, the core will remain warm a long time. This post is about 15 years old now... about 2005 or so I cast a plastic bottle... quart size... in some silicone and heated the water to about 110F (43C) to see what would happen. As silicone is a fair insulator, the outside surface took 20 minutes to get warm... but it did. And then we put it in the freezer about 10 minutes... when we took it out it was cold... in 10 minutes it was warm again... not as warm of course... but a bit more than ambient air temperature.

All that said and done...

We abandoned that for a custom made doll closet... it had a small glycol type space heater in it... the walls were insulated. The closet was heated to about 100F (37C)... like a small sauna... I had multiple dolls in there. When you took them out, unless the room was very chilly... they maintained temperature for about 1/2 hour. I would activate the heater about an hour ahead of time... timer on the outlet.

If you make a heat box / heat closet... use the GLYCOL type heater... you can put your hand on them at full temperature... they will get hot... but not enough to start a fire. DO NOT use the kind with a red ribbon in them... that is an accident waiting to happen.

Again I'll say it... and I know I sound like a broken record. (God I'm old... most younger members won't even get the reference...)

Silicone is not the right material for these dolls... NEOPRENE with a foam filling... that is the right combination... really. But that sould be a whole other thread.

Jerry
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