Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
- pillowperson21
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
Here is a PDF from TAP plastics for platinum silicone that lists materials that will cause cure inhibition.pillowperson21 wrote:Alright this should be my final question. I am going to cast into alginate with silicone and then make a brush on mold onto the silicone with silicone (with release)? Sounds good. Last question, can PVC and silicone touch? I'm thinking of buying a more realistic dildo because the TPR ones are not visually realistic. Could I made a brush on mold of silicone onto PVC jelly or will it inhibit the silicone? Thank you.
http://www.tapplastics.com/uploads/pdf/ ... licone.pdf
Unfortunately plasticized PVC is on the list (if that's what PVC gel is).
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
Hehe, me too!pillowperson21 wrote:I love watching Brick In the Yard, he always says some funny stuff. LOL.
I love the one where he says "you got to move like a crack addict spider monkey" (casting urethane foam that has a 30 second pot life, lol).
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
I think flavored lube would be the best way to do that...pillowperson21 wrote:This really isn't important but if I could make it smell or taste (even better) a cetain way (like vanilla, chocolate, AXE-yum- or something) that would be pretty cool. Or, (this is going to sound weird) make it smell like vinyl, plastic, you know like a plastic binder or a plastic chair mat?
http://www.shopinprivate.com/nsearch.ht ... vored+lube mmm, cookies and cream.
Here's one that tastes like mint chocolate...
http://www.shopinprivate.com/organic-ch ... -lube.html
The closest thing I can think of that would be vinyl scent would be this "new car scent" stuff...
http://www.autogeek.net/griots-new-car- ... MgodhQcA0g
I wouldn't try licking it though.
Maybe just spray it on a chair or something close by so you can get the scent.
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
It would probably keep the silicone from curing but I guess you could try it.pillowperson21 wrote:Thank you. So this lube would be for lube purposes or could i actually mix it into the liquid silicone prior to casting?
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
http://www.flavoredpacifiers.com/
So, grind up a flavored baby pacifier and mix it in with your silicone?
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
LOL, mmmm, herpes never tasted so good!pillowperson21 wrote:OMG, you are so funny, then my toy can look like it has herpes or something.
Hey you never know, it may be the next big craze in dildo textures!
It would be a small niche market - those who really wanted to boink a guy with herpes but were afraid of...well...getting herpes.
But seriously, I don't think you'll be able to add much of anything out of the ordinary to platinum silicone without ruining it, but you can certainly give it a try.
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
They actually have a lube that tastes like toasted Macadamia nuts.
http://www.shopinprivate.com/toasted-nut-lube.html
The review wasn't too good...
"We tried a mouthful and wow. This is maybe the worst tasting lube ever invented."
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Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
Re: Silicone TPE/R Making retractable foreskin flaccid/erect
As to the shine of the castings, the FuseFX paints are fantastic however I doubt their durability for this application. I'd go with a very light dusting of powder on the original piece to give it a bit more of a matte surface look. The mold will pick up this powder texture and the castings will be far more matte than the original.
I wouldn't go anything less than a 30 shore silicone for the core because (forgive the assumption) it wouldn't give that realistic erection rigidity. I don't think it would be possible to have the finished piece posses a functional firmness with anything less. While you don't want anything so hard it tears the outter silicone like a solid core would, but you don't want a floppy erection either. I'd order a trial size of a 40 shore if it were my project because you must remember that all the strength and rigidity of the whole project will come from a very small diameter rod of silicone.
Also be aware of how well freshly poured silicone, especially the softer types, can literally "fuse" to other silicone pieces if not separated by some other type of powder or liquid designed to keep them from sticking. This is a trick that can be used to "bond" pieces that were separately (freshly) cast. It can also ruin a piece if the items "bond" in the wrong position etc. Many places (including smooth-on) sell good chemicals, called release agents that are used to keep silicone from bonding when making two part molds--this can be a very useful tool.
If I were to tackle this project I would:
Pour a one piece mold of the model with a suitable (I like 30 shore) mold making silicone making it big enough to retain it's shape on it's own. Remove the model from the mold and then using an exacto knife split the mold up one side to make it easier to remove the casting.
Make a hollow (rotation casting) of the outter, softer silicone and allow to cure within the original mold. Then using a liquid plastic (alumilite or smooth-on's) pour a casting of the interior of the hollow mold center. This will give you a perfect copy of the inside of the hollow model casting.
Remove the hard plastic core, then remove the cured "outter skin" from the mold. You now have your hollow outter model and a copy of it's interior in it's erect state. I'd then repeat the process for the hard plastic interior piece. This would give you a nice, reusable mold for the core that you could then use to experiment with the various shore hardness silicones and even with various color combinations.
In the end you would have two nicely reusable molds that would be able to duplicate any worn, broken, or incorrect pieces in subsequent castings. Also, by using the hard plastic core model with the original full size mold you wouldn't have to rotate cast any subsequent castings. Simply paint the inside of the original mold with the silicone for the outter skin, pour in a generous amount of silicone into the bottom and insert the core into the mold. Your new casting will now have the exact same insert shape and you can go on from there.
Also, having the molds to remake the entire project can lead you to greater experimentation and ultimately better products and experience. When using an alginate mold that will be destroyed, a person can be hesitant and frustrated if things don't turn out and one has to start over again from scratch. And, as I've mentioned, silicone items---especially those subjected to the abuse and wear of intimate contact---can and do break. Being able to replicate that piece after all that hard work can be much more liberating when actually using the piece for it's intended purpose.
Hope this helps and welcome!