Dildoll´s making an animatronic doll face, other mods

dildoll · Post by **dildoll** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 10:53 pm

Chris you are a very forgiving man! But I am starting to see what you mean. Hey guys, guess what's coming...

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cheers

Silicondoll · Post by **Silicondoll** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 6:57 am

dildoll wrote:Chris you are a very forgiving man! But I am starting to see what you mean. Hey guys, guess what's coming...

cheers

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Hmmm ?!?

what the artist wants?
telling us having the picture

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Does he work (Dildoll) for Mechadoll.

Post by **brigittes hubbie** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 12:28 pm

No, I don´t think so, he wrote that he has his own company and works on something. I admit I´m curious. Sculpting hid own head, maybe doing a Brigitte Bardot head?

Chris

dildoll · Post by **dildoll** » Sun Apr 12, 2015 10:50 pm

Hmmm ?!?

what the artist wants?

YUP. I want an Asian face. Yves and crew don't make one. And you will see soon, Traum1 and others, I am not a plant as I do not know their skin mix and more importantly the exact silicone paint they are using. It is extremely hard to match a color on silicone, translucence is a big problem, but we do our best, right?

I'm no Yves, and I acknowledge - like Chris - when fine art has been achieved. I'm not using any of my sculptors on this, it's all me. So, Traum1, I love honest feedback, but know you are talking to me.

SO: (Chris, going to try to stay on-topic, push me to another thread on help me start one please if necessary), here is what I have done. I am customizing my mecha BUT what I am making is not for MD or even MD USA, I'm doing this on my own dime. What I am doing can be used on ANY doll. Traum1, get it?

Here's how it goes:

1 - I start with a digital sculpt I made from makehuman.org. Fun, but not close to zbrush by any means. Nonetheless, this is what I made in 10 mins:

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2 - 3D print that head to scale with some smaller scale references (I'm skipping a LOT of technical steps here, I'm sure some of you know what I had to do). Start adding warm NSP medium clay to the print. Traum1 this is a standard clay in the FX / animatronics community:

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3 - START sculpting for real-real. The print was an armature ONLY. I did a lot of print removal by pliers and adding more clay to get what I wanted.

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4- Clean it up and lay on clear coat. You will see I start adding gray filler primer to shortcut a lot of sculpting raking marks cleanup. Saves huge amounts of time, but any of you guys know (from sculpting or even bondo-ing a dent in a car) filler primer is awesome but used quickly and not as recommended is only paint layer buildup until you get an acceptable removal of sanding / sculpting scratches. In the body finishing world this would be like jumping to a catalyzed primer from a 220 grit file instead of doing to a 400 and higher wet polishing before priming (and sanding, and priming, and sanding).

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5 - MOLD IT. Dividing wall is basically technical sculpting. This is critical. Those of you that have made the most basic mold (2 part single cavity) know what flashing is. Others know this in the final product as "seams", and most complain about them. Silicone seams are a royal pain in the ass to fix. In doll pics from some manufacturers you can see very obvious large seams (if they are not airbrushed out or lit carefully in the shoot to hide them). This step is not easy and on a large mold will take days. Even with current tech. And YES, I have printed 4 part slider insert molds using high res SLA tech. Seams still? Yup. I dig my mecha in a lot of ways, but one being that I can see that the mold crew respected Yves sculpting and treated it as art taking time to produce minimal seams. Or they were whipped a lot, I don't know

. This mold is super simple:

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5 - There are a lot of intermediate stages here I'm sure a lot of you (see how I didn't knock any one member in particular like Traum1 there Chris?) know how to do, so I'll skip them. But here's the first pull using out-of-the-bucket Dragonskin 10 (degassed w slow 7+ hour at my temp cure time):

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That's first pull, no patching, no seaming. And obviously no coating or paint. Next is composite "underskull" that supports that skin exactly. That skull is what will contain the battery, controller, actuators, audio, and all mechanical linkages to drive this animatronic...wait for it...THIS FACE CAN BE USED ON ANY DOLL!!!

More to come.

Cheers

(and Traum1 I am kidding, just poking you for fun man. Troll me all you want, you have earned it

)

Silicondoll · Post by **Silicondoll** » Mon Apr 13, 2015 6:29 am

Dil Doll Respect!

dildoll wrote:YUP. I want an Asian face. Yves and crew don't make one. And you will see soon, Traum1 and others, I am not a plant as I do not know their skin mix and more importantly the exact silicone paint they are using. It is extremely hard to match a color on silicone, translucence is a big problem, but we do our best, right?

I'm no Yves, and I acknowledge - like Chris - when fine art has been achieved. I'm not using any of my sculptors on this, it's all me. So, Traum1, I love honest feedback, but know you are talking to me.

SO: (Chris, going to try to stay on-topic, push me to another thread on help me start one please if necessary), here is what I have done. I am customizing my mecha BUT what I am making is not for MD or even MD USA, I'm doing this on my own dime. What I am doing can be used on ANY doll. Traum1, get it?

Here's how it goes:

1 - I start with a digital sculpt I made from makehuman.org. Fun, but not close to zbrush by any means. Nonetheless, this is what I made in 10 mins:

2 - 3D print that head to scale with some smaller scale references (I'm skipping a LOT of technical steps here, I'm sure some of you know what I had to do). Start adding warm NSP medium clay to the print. Traum1 this is a standard clay in the FX / animatronics community:

3 - START sculpting for real-real. The print was an armature ONLY. I did a lot of print removal by pliers and adding more clay to get what I wanted.

4- Clean it up and lay on clear coat. You will see I start adding gray filler primer to shortcut a lot of sculpting raking marks cleanup. Saves huge amounts of time, but any of you guys know (from sculpting or even bondo-ing a dent in a car) filler primer is awesome but used quickly and not as recommended is only paint layer buildup until you get an acceptable removal of sanding / sculpting scratches. In the body finishing world this would be like jumping to a catalyzed primer from a 220 grit file instead of doing to a 400 and higher wet polishing before priming (and sanding, and priming, and sanding).

5 - MOLD IT. Dividing wall is basically technical sculpting. This is critical. Those of you that have made the most basic mold (2 part single cavity) know what flashing is. Others know this in the final product as "seams", and most complain about them. Silicone seams are a royal pain in the ass to fix. In doll pics from some manufacturers you can see very obvious large seams (if they are not airbrushed out or lit carefully in the shoot to hide them). This step is not easy and on a large mold will take days. Even with current tech. And YES, I have printed 4 part slider insert molds using high res SLA tech. Seams still? Yup. I dig my mecha in a lot of ways, but one being that I can see that the mold crew respected Yves sculpting and treated it as art taking time to produce minimal seams. Or they were whipped a lot, I don't know . This mold is super simple:

5 - There are a lot of intermediate stages here I'm sure a lot of you (see how I didn't knock any one member in particular like Traum1 there Chris?) know how to do, so I'll skip them. But here's the first pull using out-of-the-bucket Dragonskin 10 (degassed w slow 7+ hour at my temp cure time):

That's first pull, no patching, no seaming. And obviously no coating or paint. Next is composite "underskull" that supports that skin exactly. That skull is what will contain the battery, controller, actuators, audio, and all mechanical linkages to drive this animatronic...wait for it...THIS FACE CAN BE USED ON ANY DOLL!!!

More to come.

Cheers

Ich bin zwar kein Künstler oder Jurist und garantiert auch kein Troll!

(and Traum1 I am kidding, just poking you for fun man. Troll me all you want, you have earned it )

Aber ich dürfte so etwas in Deutschland nicht, und schon garnicht öffentlich tun!

Aber wenn Sie Dil Doll eine Lizenz, von Mechadoll dafür haben,
dann können Sie ihre Köpfe für Mechadoll-Doll's anbieten?

Mechadoll-Fr würde bestimmt kaufen, die brauchen Gesichter für ihre Mechadoll's

MfG, Yours truly ja, ja, jippie jippie yeah -"YouTube" Respect wer es selber macht!

Post by **brigittes hubbie** » Mon Apr 13, 2015 2:55 pm

Hi Dildoll, wow, this looks easy to do the way you show and explain it but I´m far too uncreative to do it. I´m curious how it´ll turn out once you put the finishing touches on it. Respect, oh yes, I have a lot of respect for the job you are doing on this face.
Chris

dildoll · Post by **dildoll** » Mon Apr 13, 2015 10:39 pm

Hey Chris, so I don't F-up Traum1's comment w Google translate would you mind translating?

I did see a mention about licensing. Of course I don't have a license. I OWN the doll. I have modified her and done some repairs. Kind of like your owning a car (not to offend those who have deep feelings for their dolls). You can modify your car, correct? Well, with all due respect to Yves and crew, I'm modifying her to my liking. And anyways I'm not selling anything.

cheers

Silicondoll · Post by **Silicondoll** » Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:16 am

So, Traum1, I love honest feedback, but know you are talking to me.

Ok, Dil Doll,
Google translations that brought me only ANGER and misunderstandings in!
My personal experience with my MD dolls showing me

I am not a plant as I do not know their skin mix and more importantly the exact silicone paint they are using. It is extremely hard to match a color on silicone, translucence is a big problem, but we do our best, right?

Each Doll, and the two from the United States who have a anderre skin color, each is änderst!

. But here's the first pull using out-of-the-bucket Dragonskin 10 (degassed w slow 7+ hour at my temp cure time):

Dragon Skin 10? this is not my imagination for a Mechadoll!

I am customizing my mecha BUT what I am making is not for MD or even MD USA, I'm doing this on my own dime. What I am doing can be used on ANY doll.

this is very unlikely in my EYES, because I already know three basic platforms for verschidenne MD faces.

Traum1, get it?

wait for it...THIS FACE CAN BE USED ON ANY DOLL!!!

Sorry, but that I read as an offer to sell,

Yours truly

dildoll · Post by **dildoll** » Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:26 pm

Chris, I'm going to let Traum1 calm down and wait for your more accurate translation (please exclude the "!!!").

Hey all, consider this a disclaimer: these are not meant as instructions, just highlights from the process of making this. For every step or pic I mention or show there are at least 10 steps I have not shown and 100+ tips in each step I have learned from making animatronics for more than 20 years. And this is a quick job, not a pro sculpt. I'm not a full-time professional mold maker. I'm not really a full time anything but I do know a lot about many things and can do what you see on my own.

So if you are encouraged to try this stuff on your own, awesome. But do not look at my posts as instructions.

Guys, if you remove yourself emotionally, this is like me taking my truck and making some mods to it I wanted but are not offered by the manufacturer. I don't have to call Nissan HQ to ask them permission. My design engineering monkey brain reminds me that I have friends that want to do the same thing, so I design things that can be used in a lot of different trucks. On that note I will not be able to match their proprietary skin or color. It will not have a perfect makeup job (but I'll do my best). Doll manufacture is NOT what I do for a living, they do. And most manufacturers are very good at it. If they are watching they will know what I have done and where things could be done better. I am not sure how many of this crowd actually understand the process of making a doll and the time and money they put into one. To hear somebody bitch about the price of ANY doll makes me cringe. There is a lot you don't see, and none of it is simple.

cheers

dildoll · Post by **dildoll** » Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:29 pm

...also Chris, I promise to never tease Traum1 again. English, Goggle translate, or otherwise. BUT I will respond politely and fact-fully to his statements. I need your help, man.

I welcome criticism and questions.

And Dragonskin 10 is definitely not what MD (or probably any manufacturer) uses. I had it on the shelf. I suspect some of you know why I chose it, other than convenience sake. If you do please enlighten the crowd. Those who saw my mold parting line know that it would not work as-is. D-skin10 alone without local mold area additives would not have produced the skin I made. Not talking about simple sprues and vents. Anyhoo tech mumbo-jumbo is not the topic.

cheers

Silicondoll · Post by **Silicondoll** » Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:20 am

dildoll wrote:...also Chris, I promise to never tease Traum1 again. English, Goggle translate, or otherwise. BUT I will respond politely and fact-fully to his statements. I need your help, man.

Hi Dil Doll,

I understand it now!
Honestly, I'm even a little jealous of their performance!

I would have their opportunities and EXPERIENCE,

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I would have done it for myself

Yours truly

Post by **brigittes hubbie** » Wed Apr 15, 2015 3:32 pm

Hi guys, now that´s the way I like it.

I´m still amazed by your work, dildoll, although I´m happy to say that I don´t need to change Brigitte´s face. It´s the MD face I fell in love to, and I´ll do forever.

I´m very curious how your doll will look with an asian face. I love my 158 + DS doll, Emanuelle and Fabienne look great to me. A doll with an asian face doesn´t necessray have to be skinny.

Chris

dildoll · Post by **dildoll** » Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:39 pm

Aaaahhh, peace. That's boring, gimme a few more posts (kidding!). Quick update, my face on the left MD USA's one the right. Painting dragonskin30 is fine, but I do use a couple of tricks to make that paint STICK to any platinum silicone (primers). All airbrush work, and heavy multiple coats of psycho paint. I'm NO makeup artist. Yves (or his artists) do a great job of making their faces beautiful. You can see that even though I can almost get the matte / gloss mix close to the sheen of their proprietary silicone mix it will never really match. Translucency you can fake with the right lighting, but change that lighting? NOPE. Also through all this process I have tried to get a silicone mix that may produce something close to theirs, $$$ later I have not been successful. Theirs has a great uniform dispersion of tiny bubbles but is soft (about shore 20 or so). I have tried multiple mixes and off-the-shelf products mixed together and pinged product line tech reps, still no success. SO GUYS - here is PROOF I'm not a plant. My own sculpt, my molds, my skin, my paint. I wish I could get a gallon of their silicone, that's not going to happen.

Electronics, power supply design, programming, and full system integration are going on right now. Until then, here you go, cheers

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Post by **brigittes hubbie** » Sat Apr 18, 2015 1:14 pm

Hi dildoll, your make-up job looks terrific, don´t worry, she´ll be great. The pics you used for inspiration are great so it´ll turn out fine.
Chris

dildoll · Post by **dildoll** » Sun Apr 19, 2015 9:17 pm

OK ladies and gents, REV1 of Asian Animatronic Face for ANY doll (voice source from any Bluetooth enabled device) is done:

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Video tests of core animatronic functions and final animatronic function, controlled by my iPhone (using female sexy-time audio rendered from audacity) attached below. Bluetooth external input of audio makes it simple for me to change the tracks, voice, add interactive voice, etc etc. Internal audio storage is possible, but if you want to change it...pain in the ass.

Experience: AWESOME. Hearing a woman's pleasure it turns out is a big thing for me. There are definitely some things I want to change. I know how to do it, just a matter of finding time. Why is she wearing a shirt? Upgrades / major fixes are underway. I'll put it this way: trying to get very close to the feel - not just "jiggle" of a woman's breast is not a simple thing. Breast implants on a real woman? Yeaaaah, you can spot them but they feel mostly OK. The outer flesh and internal gel is not simple. $$$ I have spent on this so far. WHEN I have a solution I will present it.

cheers