Building a doll from scratch

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Thu Jan 19, 2017 5:59 pm

Smooth-On has a product called XTC-3D for coating 3d prints.
I haven't used it but it looks like it might work nicely...
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/

I think you can sprinkle on baby powder or powered sugar during the process to give it a matte finish.

MIKE238 · Post by **MIKE238** » Thu Jan 19, 2017 7:25 pm

Thanks MF. I've looked at that as well and I'm probably going to experiment with both. Having a perfectly smooth result is critical for the mold-making process.

Two more pieces to print and I should have everything assembled in a couple of weeks. Will keep you all posted!

rubherkitty · Post by **rubherkitty** » Thu Jan 19, 2017 8:20 pm

Mike, are you going for a doll that is really smooth? I know there's been a little discussion of doll surfaces such as smooth vs textured. I'm going for a textured doll, but not sure how they do it.

What skin tone are you planning on?

MIKE238 · Post by **MIKE238** » Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:15 pm

That's a good question about the skin texture. My goal is to have it smooth with no lumps, bumps or "layers" showing from the printing process. But I have plenty of time to decide about just how smooth I'll make it. I will, with the finished doll, have "normal" light skin, not too light or not too dark (tanned).

Post by **mi6c** » Fri Jan 20, 2017 1:48 am

MannequinFan wrote:Smooth-On has a product called XTC-3D for coating 3d prints.
I haven't used it but it looks like it might work nicely...
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/

I think you can sprinkle on baby powder or powered sugar during the process to give it a matte finish.

I am aware of this as being used to smooth a surface as it has a "self-levelling" property.
See here for example: http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html
I am not aware of the sugar sprinkling for a matte look - like with silicone surface creation - if that is so it would be nice to get some reference.

Kind regards.

BigBurrito · Post by **BigBurrito** » Fri Jan 20, 2017 9:16 am

Just like the auto body trade. did a chopper tank the same way, rattle can primer, several layers and time

BigBurrito · Post by **BigBurrito** » Fri Jan 20, 2017 1:44 pm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPE-Pellets-The ... 3641.l6368, found on ebay, this may work for smaller cast projects

MannequinFan · Post by **MannequinFan** » Fri Jan 20, 2017 3:17 pm

mi6c wrote:I am not aware of the sugar sprinkling for a matte look - like with silicone surface creation - if that is so it would be nice to get some reference.

I swear this was someplace in the Smooth-On literature a while ago, but I can't seem to find it now.
I guess one would just need to do a small test to see if it works.

On second thought, the high build primer may be the better way to go for a project this large.
You only have a few minutes work time with the XTC so you'd probably end up having to do it in sections.

freezenator · Post by **freezenator** » Fri Jan 20, 2017 7:30 pm

Hello. This is Freezenator. I want to start by saying great work with the 3d printing. I was wondering, since I am thinking about making a doll with a 3d printer using models from Daz 3d, what software did you use to create the split and joint systems that I always see on 3d models? I use to just glue them on as is, but it never comes out right. The peg system seems so much easier. Please tell me what are your techniques. Thanks.

Merck Foehurt · Post by **Merck Foehurt** » Sat Jan 21, 2017 2:40 am

Yeah, I know the 3D printing is just to help make a mold. I also know that this is definitely not about saving money, but I'm still very curious how much such an endeavor costs.
The info might also help others hoping to follow in your footsteps so that they could budget properly.

I did have a thought on how someone could 3D print a doll though.
Print out the parts you would need for a full-sized version of a standard ball jointed doll, but with adjustments here and there. Such as articulate hands, a screw hole on the neck to add a WM head, and cavities in the torso and crotch to add realistic boobs and a fleshlight.
Then cover her with a body stocking or full latex suit if that's your thing

rubherkitty · Post by **rubherkitty** » Sat Jan 21, 2017 3:25 am

Yeah, a 3D printed ball joint doll could be made or joints for a mannequin could be made. I actually have a ball joint doll myself.

Here is a link to a long discussion on the possibility of making ball joint dolls.
http://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtopi ... =6&t=57877

Feel free to revive the thread!

MIKE238 · Post by **MIKE238** » Sat Jan 21, 2017 12:56 pm

Hey freezenator.

Yep, I used a Daz doll for starting out with a "template" for my project. Then I did a huge amount of work on the digital form to my taste, such as a nice, round behind, huge boobies, etc. and converting it to .obj format to import into the software I use to then "slice and dice" the parts to fit in my printer. I don't want to specifically say which software I'm using (sorry) but you can use any kind of modelling software out there such as 3DMax, Lightwave, Maya, etc. The peg system is by far the way to go as there is no uncertainty about putting the parts together.

When you import the finished object to your taste you'll then need to convert all your pieces to the .stl format for printing. If you don't have a printer yet but are considering buying one (you'll need one with a large printing volume) I would recommend gCreate. Here is their website:

http://www.gcreate.com/

It does a superb job (with the right kind of software - more of that shortly) and the tech. service is very good there. As far as software for your printer, I would highly, and I mean highly recommend Simplify3D. It is NOT a free program but it will be worth every dollar you spend on it:

https://www.simplify3d.com/

There is a definite learning curve with navigating the ins and outs of using a 3D printer but don't ever hesitate to ask me for help with your printer, I'm always here to help out.

Good luck!

MIKE238 · Post by **MIKE238** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 10:08 am

Well, I have both torso sections printed now and I thought I would do a trial fit to see if everything would come together. Since I have not yet, and won't for sometime, glue the sides together, you can see the "seam" between the two. Of course that seam will disappear once the sides are glued together and the seam filled in with plastic putty. I do have both breasts firmly glued to each torso side and carefully filled in with the putty. The head, of course, is also not glued onto the torso yet. It's great to see, though, that everything is coming together perfectly. It's hard to believe all of this is actually happening!

Each torso side took about four and a half days to print plus each gobbled up a huge amount of printer filament. But I anticipated that and it's just part of the process.

I have one part left to print - the left side upper leg. I need to buy another reel of filament before I can start that. In the meantime I'll keep working on smoothing out the parts I already have - all of which will take a lot of time. Will keep you posted.