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Sex toy design and materials

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MakerOfStuff
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Re: Sex toy design and materials

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r363b wrote:
An issue may be long term how the two materials will work together.. can TPE and silicone bond to each other, will the TPE start to move out the silicone casing, leak oil, and other factors not known.
...
To me and I think others on this forum .. your superior Silicone sleeve project is most interesting and not a TPE and silicone hybrid. Not to say others outside this forum may want your hybrid sleeve and this would be the reason to continue this hybrid concept.

.. otherwise If someone would want to have a TPE sleeve which has only one downside to me .. mildew / mold, It would be the Fleshlight. (But if you clean and dry properly a Fleshlight it will last years and costs $33 each when you purchase the buy 2 get 1 free for $99.) https://us.fleshlight.com/collections/buy-2-get-1-free
...
THE MATERIALS...
... As we discussed in earlier posts...
Others have had silicone and TPE react, within a period of several days, where Silicone has hardened, likely caused by the plasticizing oils in the TPE...
...and others have had the TPE melt in response to the Silicone (Over a few days).
I have had one freezer bag holding ALL of these sample materials, touching each other for several weeks, and NOTHING has happened, except for the bleeding over of dyes, especially from the TPE, which has a LOT of dye in it (The sticky hand toys I mean. Red, Green, Blue, Orange, Pink. The red is the strongest).

So these specific materials are fine together so far. The question will be then, how will THESE ones react with YOUR materials?

ANSWER(s)...
Well, based on that. If you are using it as an insert I am selling, which is made of TPE, hopefully you can get a sample piece of your material separate from your product, and place it in contact with these TPE sticky hand TPE materials from Walmart ($1 for 0.1lb, four of them in one package).

THE SILICONE SHOULD BE SAFE, I think with all materials...
I plan to make all of the above. At first just liners, and then the fill (which should be a smooth round face and flat back end at first, and later reversible ones), and these will be JUST Silicone at first.
So far these are totally inert, and dont react with anything. And I wont have dye at first, so they will be a semi-clear (Cloudy) material.
Pigment is at the top of the list when I sell a few though.
Then a brand new fleshlight (maybe the 3 set), which I will probably just duplicate then resell (Not use, since I am sure I can make a better one, and I did alter the one I bought long ago shortly after buying it, so I always had a better design in my opinion)....
And that is to make perfect liners that fit on other fleshlights, to change the color, texture (Obviously it will be tighter since these are inner liners). That will make them easier to clean too I'm sure.

I am pretty darn sure its just the plasticizing agents (Oils) in the TPE substances which cause them to bleed/leak oils out.
The samples I made with more than 1:1 (50%) Slacker also did leak some oils, but I think that was only the ones close to 2x slacker (The max), I have to check again, but I think the 1.5x slacker (3/5ths or 60% total weight, the rest being DragonSkin or EcoFlex 00-10) might have left an oil mark, maybe not.


UPDATE ON MY SITUATION...
And that leads to the problem. Now I have to search for a shelter to stay in, and have left ALL of my project materials, tools, prototypes, etc., behind. And now there is a slim chance I might even lose all of that and have to start completely over again with no money or home or anything.
And all of this is because of some crazy ass hole I was trying to help, after CPS took his child...but he just wouldnt put in the effort to prepare an Affidavit (All the facts, names, dates, times, etc.. Its a lot of work!), so I stopped answering his calls, and he started to threaten my friend who was helping me.

Now I have no home, and I was probably only a couple days or so from finishing the first prototype (was about to smooth the face part and then pour the cylinder smooth, then add the texture, then pour the first products! That close!).
But I will find some where I can stay, with a fully working kitchen (I need microwave, sink, fridge and freezer to make and change prototypes, as well as to make the molds to pour silicone into, which have no seams, until I can buy urethane rubber this Silicone wont stick to).

So who knows how long it will be now before I can even work on this again, but as soon as I have my things and a place to work, I think I can get the first models ready in a few days or so.
If I have to start over....
It costs: $33 or so per 2lb Kit...I need 2 so $66, plus SlackerX4 ($20/lb) and Thi-Vex ($3.08/Oz)... and Gelatin (Around $20/lb. I have a few pounds I think, so lets say $60)....I picked up the plastics I was using while riding my bike around (All #s, 1-7), and bought the TPE from Walmart for $1/0.1lb ($10/lb).

So to make these products, I will need All but the TPE above, and some other tools (I am using bolts with round 'acorn cap' nuts, and an oil lamp to heat them without charring/carbonizing like butane lighters do, or maybe later my Soldering Iron when I buy an expensive variometer, or 120vAC light dimmer. Around $20-30 last I checked, see note below).

On the soldering iron...
When I have made new ones, I plan to test on a FleshLight if I can use the Soldering iron, a thermometer that measures the temp touching its point, and the dimmer switch, and adjust the Soldering iron to exactly 300F (Or just use oil with a smoke point well above that, maybe just around 310-320 so it CANT burn the TPE), with a thermometer sitting in that, to heat these tools JUST RIGHT...
So you can actually weld the TPE back together!
I have done test like this before, with plastics, and you CAN, CAREFULLY, melt plastics, dip a finger in water, and smooth it out while it cools, and weld thermal plastics and rubbers together.
So far, the only ones you cant 'melt' (with heat, as opposed to 'dissolve', with chemical solvents), are the ABS (Cant melt. It burns first), and PVC (Releases toxins when heating. And I have not found the exact temp yet, but will get around to making a chart on the site I plan to make soon).
Besides ABS (#7) and PVC (#3), also #1 (PETE, Polyethylene Tetraphthalate) would not melt, but ONLY the TV dinner trays. Normal beverage bottles are made of a PET/PETE plastic I COULD melt in the oven. I will eventually get all that data up here for you guys too, but I dont know where it is right now, with all this crap going on.

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

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LIQUID LATEX FOR STRONGER INNER SURFACE... Just like condoms, I could coat the silicone in latex (Silicone wont cure on latex), and probably thin the latex with more ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) to make thinner coatings, and on a second coat put it into a mold to control the texture and thickness (It will have to press periodically against the thinnest spots already cured for this to work), but I will have to keep then thin, because latex dries to solidify, unlike 'curing' where these Silicone products under go a special chemical reaction, which DOES include actual platinum (hence the cost and name of the DimethylPolySiloxane Platinum cure Silicone rubbers, which I think are resins, not sure what that means exactly yet though, except that it is the solid stuff from the blood/sap of trees, tall, tough plant bloods solid byproducts basically, after distilling).

These chemical reactions take a specific amount of time, but the thicker the longer latex and these hard plastics take to solidify (Cure or cool or dry), whether dissolved in solvents or melted by heat.

ONE CATCH, I just realized, is how sticky the latex is (You cant get it free when fresh latex layers touch), not without deforming or tearing the thinner layer, so thats what the corn starch is for, and I think baking them at 150f if I remember right, might take the sticky away, but I have to figure that out still if I want to try this. At first I will stick to just the Silicone, soft inner texture, tougher but still flexible layer inside that, then a soft fill with a really tough and flexible DragonSkin outer layer on that (the part you hold or insert into whatever to hold it, like a foam pillow or doll).

Lets check the shore hardness of natural latex now...

TENSILE STRENGTH AND SHORE HARDNESS VALUES OF NATURAL RUBBER (And some for these Silicone products)...
http://www.zenithrubber.com/rubber-shee ... sheets.htm
http://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.10 ... 012088/pdf
Looks like around 50 to 70 Shore A (So a lot harder to stretch, actually thats tensile, but this is compression, and they are closely related here).

EcoFlex GEL... (Which I think is inferior to just adding the Slacker to one of the above, not as I expected when I bought it btw)...
Shore 000-35 (About the same as 00-5 or 7 I think. Not nearly as soft as about 1.5 to 2x slacker with dragon skin or ecoflex, nor as strong), Not tensile strength, tears EASY (easier than the others with slacker), 1000% elongation@break...
https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/ECOFLEX_GEL_TB.pdf

EcoFlex...
Shore A5 down to the softest 00-10 (00-50 is the highest one in that scale), each has that value in its name...Tensile 350 down to 120psi for the softer 00-10, 1000% down to 800% elongation@break for the softer one (00-10), Tear Strength 75 down to 22pli (For 00-10, what I have)...
https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/ECOF ... IES_TB.pdf

DragonSkin FX Pro...
Now for the Smooth-On products...
Shore A2, Tensile 288psi, 763%Elongation @Break, Tear Strength (Die B) 61pli (lbs/Linear Inch)...
https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/DRAG ... PRO_TB.pdf

Slower Cure DragonSkins....
Shore A10 to A30, Tensile Strength 475psi to 550psi, 364% elongation@break for Shore 30 up to 1000% for Shore 10 (The one I have and plan to use for the outer skins, and the inner skins with slacker added more than 1:1, up to around 1:1.5x, Tear Strength (Die B) 102 to 120 pli (Shore 30 is highest one)...
https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/DRAG ... IES_TB.pdf

Now I know the Latex is much tougher in thin layers, but now that I checked this, that might be only because of its hardness.
If I check the other statistics for latex these silicone products might be much tougher?
Can someone else finish finding that data for Natural latex (The Liquid Latex we can buy cheap online or at Walmart, etc.)?
Then we can see if it is actually stronger than the shore A10 to 30 DragonSkin with Tensile (Stretch/break) of around 500psi and around 10 down to under 4x stretch (For the harder ones, less stretch to break).

I can do this now... https://www.google.com/search?q=kg%2Fcm ... cm2+to+psi
They ranged from about 15kg/cm2 to 200, which is...
213.35psi to 2844.67psi...with Shore A hardness of around 40 to 70 or so for the Natural rubber products above...
...compared to softer Silicones (Shore 30 to 00-10 and below, Ultra Soft. I think Fleshlights are about 000-35 maybe)...
... around 500psi for dragonskin (I have the 475psi Tensile A10) to 350 and down to 120psi for the 00-10 EcoFlex I have.

So compared to the products from that one site, these Silicones are all softer than all those Latex materials, and the shore A30 Silicones are still twice as high tensile strength then the Softest Latex which is slightly higher hardness (35 to 45 or so at the softest Latex/Natural Rubber mixture). So far it looks really good for this, but I have tried the thin layer of DragonSkin (Shore A10) and its not nearly as strong as the average condom, even when obviously thicker than one.

I got to focus on finding a new place to live and saving my project or starting over now.

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

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I NEED SOME EXACT MEASUREMENTS, and prices, for the most popular inserts here, and whether the dolls are all made of silicone or some TPE (As I figure), and the Elongation at Break for those where possible (And if they do leave oil stains on paper towels, that would be good to know too. The ones with close to 2x slacker did leave stains. They are soft as gel, but still at least 4x to 6x or more elongation at break).

That way as soon as I can get to this again, I can make the prototypes fit what is most popular already (Even if they are TPE, it will almost certainly be encased in Silicone, and/or I could make a silicone tube to cover it).

I have planned to just make several sizes, and you can put several together, with different inner canal sizes and shapes, as well as outer surfaces.
Then more complex designs later.

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

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xsdolls wrote:
samara78 wrote: Mineral oils(which tpe is made from) will cause the silicone to become brittle and crack. Silicone and tpe, to my knowledge at least cannot cure in the presence of one another. And will even, in some cases, tpe causes rapid degradation of certain silicone blends it will also cause your tpe shrink.
I can confirm this. If you want evidence just put a piece of silicone on a piece of TPE and leave it for 24 hours.

~G
This keeps coming up, so can you please give more specifics on the source and type of materials?
I have posted above, recently, the sources and technical data for these Smooth-On silicone materials, and the TPE I am getting from walmart (One was the Sticky Hand toy from Jaru Toys, whom I contacted, and they actually responded telling me they dont even know the source or type of their material! They are an asian company I think it was).

I find claims that Silbione company has the softest, but the one I got from them is more like the EcoFlex 00-10.
There is this Polyone company who sells TPE down to shore A3 or A14, but those are harder than the DragonSkin (Slow cure is the harder A10 and FX Pro is the softer A2, faster cure, the best one for using slacker with it seems. But I have not tested it yet). They cost under $4/lb, min order $160.

That Silbione sample seems just as inert and immune to everything else as the EcoFlex 00-10, Gel, DragonSkin Slow, and Foma Soama 15, and TPE from three or more different sticky toys (Which are the softest, the material I have yet to find a source for besides these Walmart products)...
All of which I have kept in a bag together for weeks. And as I said, only bleeding of dyes has occurred.

As I also said, I melted those TPE sticky hands on some EcoFlex at 300F (+/- ~10Ddegrees), and what happened is the EcoFlex was unchanged, the TPE left lots of oils on it, and did not melt thin enough to flow into the test cavities all the way, but the pieces DID melt together into one pad like I hoped. So it sort of worked, but demonstrated the need for pressure injection molding, to FORCE the TPE into the details of the Platinum Cure Silicone.

MAYBE THATS THE DIFFERENCE? Are you using Tin Cure silicone? (Its not as soft and has toxins from what I have learned, FYI), or Urethane materials?



So that makes me wonder what kind of silicone are you guys using?

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

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MakerOfStuff wrote:I NEED SOME EXACT MEASUREMENTS, and prices, for the most popular inserts here, and whether the dolls are all made of silicone or some TPE (As I figure), and the Elongation at Break for those where possible (And if they do leave oil stains on paper towels, that would be good to know too. The ones with close to 2x slacker did leave stains. They are soft as gel, but still at least 4x to 6x or more elongation at break).

That way as soon as I can get to this again, I can make the prototypes fit what is most popular already (Even if they are TPE, it will almost certainly be encased in Silicone, and/or I could make a silicone tube to cover it).

I have planned to just make several sizes, and you can put several together, with different inner canal sizes and shapes, as well as outer surfaces.
Then more complex designs later.
Sent you a message .. to find this message look in your Inbox (top of page, click tab in upper right corner under "new messages"

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

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Thanks for the Msg.
I will have to look at the specs for the most popular inserts (Most popular among these forum users), and make some inserts that fit those.

Regarding TPE and Silicone, I think its the Plasticizing agents in the TPE that cause the problems, and I think the difference (Why I'm not getting the problems others have mentioned) is just because the Silicone I am using (Platinum Cure from Smooth-On company) must be a better formulation than the others.

I would say that the TPE from these Walmart Toys seems like the same as others, except its the softest I can find (Softer than anything sold by all the companies I have emailed so far, which only go down to low Shore A values), so I would be very cautious using it with any other material without a careful test.

By careful test I mean putting two small pieces together, somewhere it wont be a problem if they do react, maybe extra pieces if you actually have one (Like from an older damaged doll, insert, etc.).

THAT WOULD BE GREAT IF SOMEONE CAN DO THAT TEST!
Anyone who has one of these dolls that DID get damaged by TPE and Silicone Together, if you could test these Walmart TPE sticky hands on the Same Silicone that is already damaged, THAT WOULD REALLY HELP!

And also, to get a Sample Kit (About $30) or a test sample (Probably get one mailed free) from Smooth-On or Reynolds Advanced Materials, or From me (I can make what you want, but I'm very limited right now in what I can do).... and test your TPE insert or whatever you have of TPE, against a piece of EcoFlex 00-10 or DragonSkin (Either the slow cure or FX Pro which is the main one I plan to use, with the Slacker added).

And lets figure out what ACTUALLY happens!

All I can say is that I am almost certain these Silicone materials will not react with or be damaged by any of the TPE or other materials or common solvents, or heat, as far as I have tested...
BUT, the TPE I can NOT say the same for. So be careful with that.

ANYWAYS, I need an oven to use the TPE, so I cant use it at first anyways, and I plan to use that for the models which go with a foam pillow, NOT to make inserts for dolls, because of the risk.

For that I plan to stick with just the Silicone products: EcoFlex 00-10 and DragonSkin, Silicone Foam, with Slacker to soften and add 'viscosity' to it, slowing its response like real skin, and then the Thi-Vex thickener and Pigment. The SLIDE STD additive tests have not worked out well, and they contain allergens anyways, so I have to keep residues off the tools, molds, etc..

MY CURRENT SITUATION...
Looks like I have to go into the shelter system, find my mother, and panhandle this whole week, and find a new place asap for myself and my mother (Whom I am worried about as I've not been able to contact for a week or so)...
But I am hoping she is ok, will likely do pretty good panhandling (esp. since I FORCED the local cops to stop arresting us for it last year! By getting nine cases against me dismissed, DESPITE my public defender...whom I retained as 'advisory counsel', and 'represented myself', and won, though he said I couldnt! Showed them!)...

And I think I settled this issue with a crazy friend who has been sending threats because I quit taking his calls, because I cant help him get is kid back, because he would not prepare an affidavit (Your testimony in writing, signed under penalty of perjury). Which is the cause of my current problems actually.

SO, now its just a matter of finding my mother, and a new place to live.
THEN, back to the few days or so before I should have the first prototype done, and probably a week or so before I have all my 7lbs or so of silicone cast into products for sale.

So only God knows what the future holds for me right now, but getting these going is now my main goal.
Even if I have to do it while sleeping out side, I will find a way. Really I need a working kitchen though (Fridge, freezer, sink, and microwave), to work with the Gelatin (To make prototypes and first molds, single use, seamless).

Thanks guys. You are helping a LOT!
And thats why I plan to sell these first units only here, at first, and to give you guys deals, so I should be selling for less than competition, with better materials, and custom designs!
Cant beat that right!?

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

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MakerOfStuff wrote: I will have to look at the specs for the most popular inserts (Most popular among these forum users), and make some inserts that fit those.

I plan to stick with just the Silicone products: EcoFlex 00-10 and DragonSkin, Silicone Foam, with Slacker to soften and add 'viscosity' to it, slowing its response like real skin, and then the Thi-Vex thickener and Pigment. The SLIDE STD additive tests have not worked out well, and they contain allergens anyways, so I have to keep residues off the tools, molds, etc..

Thanks guys. You are helping a LOT!
And thats why I plan to sell these first units only here, at first, and to give you guys deals, so I should be selling for less than competition, with better materials, and custom designs!
Cant beat that right!?
I have never owned any silicone dolls, but some of the most talked about silicone dolls are the Real Doll and Boy Toy (USA) https://secure.realdoll.com/female-realdoll2-insert/ cost is $150
.. but there are others made in USA you should just click on these links to learn about these dolls
http://dollforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=52

..also Asia and Europe doll manufactures http://dollforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=197

Not all dolls need inserts these are "built-ins" and permanently fixed in doll .. but many dolls do use separate inserts that are removable.

Remember ALL doll manufacturers that have inserts are made of the same material as doll. .. silicone dolls has silicone inserts ... TPE dolls has TPE inserts.

Hope this helps some.

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

Post by rubherkitty »

It's hard to say what silicone formulas various doll makers use other than the generic class of Platinum Cure. Many dolls use different shores of silicone and additives for different parts.

There are a number of silicone material makers in the US alone and I assume the top production doll makers buy it in at least 5 gallon buckets. Some material wholesalers may offer it by the barrel?

There was a guy on here saying that doll makers use a lot of silicone oil to make their dolls soft, but I found know where on the internet any mention from silicone casting chat boards where anyone added silicone oil. I asked my local Smooth-on dealer about that and they said the only time they heard of maybe using silicone oil is to make the silicone thinner for easier pour and fill in molds. They didn't recommend it anyway.

Even if you determine that brand X dolls silicone is not compatible with TPE, the doll maker will probably never give you the specs on the silicone blend they use.
Going downtown. Gonna see my gal. Gonna sing her a song. I'm gonna show her my ding dong! C&C

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

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r363b wrote: ...
https://secure.realdoll.com/female-realdoll2-insert/ cost is $150
.. but there are others made in USA you should just click on these links to learn about these dolls
http://dollforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=52

..also Asia and Europe doll manufactures http://dollforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=197

Not all dolls need inserts these are "built-ins" and permanently fixed in doll .. but many dolls do use separate inserts that are removable.

Remember ALL doll manufacturers that have inserts are made of the same material as doll. .. silicone dolls has silicone inserts ... TPE dolls has TPE inserts.
...

THOSE COMPETITORS ARE PROBABLY GOING TO HATE ME! Whether they be TPE or Silicone, I am pretty darn sure these Smooth-On Platinum Cure Silicone materials will be inert and immune to all the other materials and chemicals, so you will be able to use the Silicone models I have planned in any doll, or whatever. And I am pretty sure that you can cover any TPE in this silicone (say a 1/4" tube or sheet wrapped around), and I think that will prevent TPE plasticizing oils from leaking through to the silicone in the Doll (Not sure though, obviously. Just pretty sure, so long as they dont contact. Since the silicone is not porous like TPE is).

I guess those are about 1lb to 2lb (Flesh Lights I think are 1.6lb, probably larger than inserts), and these Silicone materials cost around $16-$19/lb (More when adding up to 66% Slacker to soften) in the trial kits, more like $11-$13 when buying larger amounts.

And again, I can probably make them with better materials too (Softer, more stretch before break, the non porous and chemical resistance and higher temp than TPE too. Plus the designs I have planned).

FOR THE NON-REMOVABLE ONES....
I can make thinner liners (But obviously that will make them tighter). I can make the face parts from a harder material, and the inner (pinker colored) parts out of a softer material (DragonSkin with Slacker), And still have a thin outer layer of harder, stronger material (like EcoFlex 00-10).

SO THAT BEGS THE QUESTION TO YOU GUYS WHO KNOW ABOUT THESE ALREADY...
How much of a problem, or benefit, will that be? (The making them tighter part)...
Because that means its better if they offer looser/bigger openings, so these will fit better, so....
Is that common, or uncommon (for competitors to offer different opening sizes which are larger than you might want, which WILL accommodate these liners?)?


MY SITUATION NOW... (This is why I need you guys to help look up these competing prices and post them here for me/us, since I dont have much time now)...
I probably will be going into a shelter in the coming days, depending on many things, if my friends can still help me (Someone I was trying to help started trouble and made it harder for me to get help from my friends, because I quit trying to help them, because they would not do the first thing they needed to, but just wanted everyone else to do everything for them. I dealt with that now though).

I guess I'm going to panhandle every day until I get into a motel, then in hopefully a week or less I should have molded my 7lbs of Silicone into several liners and a few whole units for sale, and bought more material, and be on my way to building a real business quickly....

Then I plan to claim land in the east foot hills of Phoenix Valley, Arizona, build generators (I have invented probably only the second ever magnet powered generator, and mine uses stronger magnets than Howard Johnsons design), and a community, designed to actually enforce our Constitution correctly, by requiring all public servants to recite their oath, the purpose of govt. and other parts of the Constitution and relevant laws which describe their duties, at least once or twice a year....
And add an amendment to the Constitution (For my community, it will be a town code or whatever, but I plan to propose this to our legislators) which requires that for all public servants in the country, and also adds to the Constitution one amendment with a summary of these Fundamental Principles (Which I already made. It came out to 10 to 12 points of law, depending on how arranged).

In my town, I plan to make a local law, which is basically the US and State Constitution, plus these requirements and this summary of the Basic Principles of law, and that will be 'the supreme Law of the Land', and 'any Thing...to the Contrary [is] notwithstanding'.

With this design, any state or federal agent trying to enforce any thing to the contrary, WILL fail (In legal argument), because our people will be educated on HOW to stop them!
As the framers intended, but KNEW we would fail at! They warned us, and told us how to prevent the current corruption (Educate your children on the Constitution, enforce it yourself on your hired servants, do not LET them violate it. The whole point of the Constitution!). But they knew we would fail, and have to pull ourselves from the ashes....which we will, only after the next, and greatest economic depression (Just look at inflation charts from 1800/1776 to present. It did not exist until 1913 when we let banks replace our money with IOUs, and now its an exponential curve, almost vertical, impossible to sustain! Caused by the printing of more notes, which decreases the value of the total currency, and increases the portion of OUR wealth which the Bank owners get to keep!).

Well I got to go beg now, so wish me well. I hope in a week or less to have a place to start again, and then in a week or so after than be finally selling here first.
Thanks for your help guys!

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

Post by MakerOfStuff »

rubherkitty wrote:It's hard to say what silicone formulas various doll makers use other than the generic class of Platinum Cure. Many dolls use different shores of silicone and additives for different parts.

There are a number of silicone material makers in the US alone and I assume the top production doll makers buy it in at least 5 gallon buckets. Some material wholesalers may offer it by the barrel?

There was a guy on here saying that doll makers use a lot of silicone oil to make their dolls soft, but I found know where on the internet any mention from silicone casting chat boards where anyone added silicone oil. I asked my local Smooth-on dealer about that and they said the only time they heard of maybe using silicone oil is to make the silicone thinner for easier pour and fill in molds. They didn't recommend it anyway.

Even if you determine that brand X dolls silicone is not compatible with TPE, the doll maker will probably never give you the specs on the silicone blend they use.
I think 5gal buckets is the largest unit they sell from Smooth-On, so I asked about buying pallets or truckloads, what kind of prices I could get, from the Reynolds Advanced Materials store, but they pointed out that I should as Smooth-On that. Later.

I did see the Silicone Thinner, and it changes the properties of the material, not for the better (In these applications) so I chose not to use it at all.
I assume the 'silicone oil' means the DiMethylPolySiloxane (The actual silicone molecule that makes the material, the polymer, which is bonded by the monomer, which I dont know in Smooth-On products, but plan to find out and make my own).
Those are LONG molecules (Hundreds to millions of molecules linked together). Based on viscosity, compared to one company that sells just that chemical, I think Smooth-On products use the several hundred molecular weight one, but you can get up to a few million or so!

That is something I plan to find out, if I can add the higher weight oil (not sure I am referring to this correctly as silicone oil though), and make softer AND stronger materials?
One product from Smooth-On has a 'knotty tear resistance' property, which I plan to duplicate too. Clearly that means the monomer causes the polymer (Longer molecules) to twist or wrap or tangle up instead of straighten or something like that, so they sort of weave together or something while curing (Hardening, solidifying).
That btw, is where the Platinum comes into play, causing these reactions (thats the part I dont know about yet), and that IS why they cost so much, I was told (By the guy at the store, a metal smith too!).

MakerOfStuff
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Re: Sex toy design and materials

Post by MakerOfStuff »

HELP ME NAME DESIGNS GUYS...
Lets take images of the various models/designs of lady parts (The labia basically), and give names to them, which are relative to something that actually exists, and is commonly known, like for example, the FleshLight 'Lotus', is named after a shape of a flower.
Lets find actual photos of common things, that match the patterns and design differences in the various shapes of actual womens parts, what they actually resemble, and post images here, and names for them.

THIS CAN BE USEFUL FOR EVERYONE IN THIS INDUSTRY, POSSIBLY INFINITELY INTO THE FUTURE!
(Even in the Space faring age, I bet we will still be making and using these. But we will hide our replicator files and history! Lol!)

That way we can use these names to refer to designs between each other, and actually know what we mean...
We can share and use the designs freely (no copy rights), especially for what I plan to make, which is the website which shows everyone how to make anything they want (Incl. these things), and it will also sell materials and tools, and high quality finished products as well.

Here are the links to the FleshLight designs and RealDoll designs to start with (You guys posted these btw. So thx for that)...
https://us.fleshlight.com/collections/buy-2-get-1-free
https://secure.realdoll.com/female-realdoll2-insert/

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CF
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Re: Sex toy design and materials

Post by CF »

I understand ... hardly any of this ... but it's interesting to get insights into the creation process.

Question: Is there a tutorial you recommend on how to make a mold, with photos, instructions, etc.?
Viva la megaboobs!
*My juicy Cherry: viewtopic.php?t=154759
*Z-cup Moira: viewtopic.php?t=138543
*BBW Breanna: viewtopic.php?t=143116
*Yulia: viewtopic.php?t=122950
*Tina viewtopic.php?t=121819
*Aurora Jolie: viewtopic.php?t=106838
*World-famous Una Carha: viewtopic.php?t=93292

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

Post by rubherkitty »

Mold making and casting plastic resin, foam, silicone, painting silicone, rooting in hair, etc videos.

https://www.youtube.com/user/SmoothOnInc/videos

https://www.youtube.com/user/brickintheyard/videos

I prefer BITY videos myself. They are more thorough in the processes and explain why it is done a certain way, pitfalls, etc.
Going downtown. Gonna see my gal. Gonna sing her a song. I'm gonna show her my ding dong! C&C

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

Post by rubherkitty »

MakerOfStuff wrote:
rubherkitty wrote:It's hard to say what silicone formulas various doll makers use other than the generic class of Platinum Cure. Many dolls use different shores of silicone and additives for different parts.

There are a number of silicone material makers in the US alone and I assume the top production doll makers buy it in at least 5 gallon buckets. Some material wholesalers may offer it by the barrel?

There was a guy on here saying that doll makers use a lot of silicone oil to make their dolls soft, but I found know where on the internet any mention from silicone casting chat boards where anyone added silicone oil. I asked my local Smooth-on dealer about that and they said the only time they heard of maybe using silicone oil is to make the silicone thinner for easier pour and fill in molds. They didn't recommend it anyway.

Even if you determine that brand X dolls silicone is not compatible with TPE, the doll maker will probably never give you the specs on the silicone blend they use.
I think 5gal buckets is the largest unit they sell from Smooth-On, so I asked about buying pallets or truckloads, what kind of prices I could get, from the Reynolds Advanced Materials store, but they pointed out that I should as Smooth-On that. Later.

I did see the Silicone Thinner, and it changes the properties of the material, not for the better (In these applications) so I chose not to use it at all.
I assume the 'silicone oil' means the DiMethylPolySiloxane (The actual silicone molecule that makes the material, the polymer, which is bonded by the monomer, which I dont know in Smooth-On products, but plan to find out and make my own).
Those are LONG molecules (Hundreds to millions of molecules linked together). Based on viscosity, compared to one company that sells just that chemical, I think Smooth-On products use the several hundred molecular weight one, but you can get up to a few million or so!

That is something I plan to find out, if I can add the higher weight oil (not sure I am referring to this correctly as silicone oil though), and make softer AND stronger materials?
One product from Smooth-On has a 'knotty tear resistance' property, which I plan to duplicate too. Clearly that means the monomer causes the polymer (Longer molecules) to twist or wrap or tangle up instead of straighten or something like that, so they sort of weave together or something while curing (Hardening, solidifying).
That btw, is where the Platinum comes into play, causing these reactions (thats the part I dont know about yet), and that IS why they cost so much, I was told (By the guy at the store, a metal smith too!).
Regarding purchasing qty material. I'm sure the big doll makers get a discount price and have the product shipped directly from the manufacturer to their doll shop.

Here was the post from the member about adding silicone oil.
"By mixing dimethicone oil, silicone oil or Smooth-on silicone thinner with your platinum silicone, you will stretch the volume of this expensive base ingredient and produce a softer and more realistic insert without degrading its strength significantly. If you look back at some of the old posts in this forum you will see that this is what many people have done and what most doll manufacturers supposedly do to produce their creations. I would suggest experimenting with a small pour at various concentrations of oil/thinner to see what you like."
Going downtown. Gonna see my gal. Gonna sing her a song. I'm gonna show her my ding dong! C&C

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Re: Sex toy design and materials

Post by r363b »

MakerOfStuff wrote:
r363b wrote: ...
https://secure.realdoll.com/female-realdoll2-insert/ cost is $150
.. but there are others made in USA you should just click on these links to learn about these dolls
http://dollforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=52

..also Asia and Europe doll manufactures http://dollforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=197

Not all dolls need inserts these are "built-ins" and permanently fixed in doll .. but many dolls do use separate inserts that are removable.

Remember ALL doll manufacturers that have inserts are made of the same material as doll. .. silicone dolls has silicone inserts ... TPE dolls has TPE inserts.
...

FOR THE NON-REMOVABLE ONES....
I can make thinner liners (But obviously that will make them tighter). I can make the face parts from a harder material, and the inner (pinker colored) parts out of a softer material (DragonSkin with Slacker), And still have a thin outer layer of harder, stronger material (like EcoFlex 00-10).

SO THAT BEGS THE QUESTION TO YOU GUYS WHO KNOW ABOUT THESE ALREADY...
How much of a problem, or benefit, will that be? (The making them tighter part)...
Because that means its better if they offer looser/bigger openings, so these will fit better, so....
Is that common, or uncommon (for competitors to offer different opening sizes which are larger than you might want, which WILL accommodate these liners?)?
For the dolls without inserts .. I think female condoms are used by some doll owners. If your "liners" are very, very thin 1/32" or 1/8" and soft and super stretchy you might have a product that someone would want. Also your tooling would require a closed end for the liner.

http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... le+condoms+

http://dangerouslilly.com/sex-toy-revie ... intenance/
"A note on using a condom with a sex toy: Make sure to buy non-lubricated condoms, or condoms that specifically say that they use water-based lube. Most condoms that are lubricated use a silicone lube, and it is usually a cheap one. These will most likely have a reaction with a silicone toy. For silicone or hard materials, you can use a latex condom if you don’t have latex allergies. For porous materials it is probably best to use polyurethane condoms – many porous materials (TPE, TPR) have oil in the material as a softener, and oil is not compatible with latex!"

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