Glues for "Cyberskin"

Drfantasy · Post by **Drfantasy** » Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:56 pm

Hey Guys!
I'm new to this forum and I would like to know if anyone has had success in fixing torn Cyberskin.
I have a"Heather Vandeven" ass that is starting to get torn up pretty good! I tried using plain old cyanoacrylate which worked great...for a day..then it just came apart. ( I believe moisture will soften that type of glue.) Any suggestions?

Szalinski · Post by **Szalinski** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 10:00 pm

Most of the 'gels' used in sex toys are thermoplastic, meaning they melt. Try applying a little heat to a hidden or nonessential location to test this first (like the backside). If it melts (make note of the temperature) you may be able to carefully 'weld' the tear shut.

Drfantasy · Post by **Drfantasy** » Wed Nov 12, 2014 2:33 am

Thanks man!

Maybe I'll try my soldering iron on the tears, very very carefully of course, and definitely with a respirator!

siliconelover · Post by **siliconelover** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 12:29 am

Drfantasy wrote: Maybe I'll try my soldering iron on the tears, very very carefully of course, and definitely with a respirator!

Heat melts these materials but usually not together.

lenglel · Post by **lenglel** » Thu Nov 13, 2014 7:09 am

I've had good luck with a soldering iron, and the fumes are just mineral
oil (non-toxic). The fumes are irritating because they are hot. For
closing a small tear, I heat the surfaces until they are glossy (about
30 seconds) then press together. A hot iron can be run over tinfoil
to smooth the surface afterwards.

irepairdolls · Post by **irepairdolls** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 9:01 am

it is true heat is really the only way to repair tears however soldering iron can be very destructive, and it rarely holds the material together because when u smooth over the top u just have a thin layer fused and the inside is not. there arbee 2 good ways of repairing cyberskin , and a whole lot of bad ways. 1 good way is to cut a small piece off somewhere it wont be missed, get a hot glue gun hat has either never been used or that is totally clean. the piece u cut should be the size of a glue stick. let it heat. the way to do this successfully is to start at inside and work your way out. it is important that u use the metal point of the gun to heat the points being repaired while filling with the hot liquid. the second good way is to make a plaster mold of the whole area, cut it off heat it in a self heating pan outside, because contrary to popular belief the smoke and fumes omitted are very toxic. im sure u have figured out some bad ways. I wont bother sharing mine. good luck to u

lenglel · Post by **lenglel** » Wed Dec 03, 2014 9:43 pm

Where are you getting the information that melting tpe emits toxic fumes?
I need to know asap, please.

lenglel · Post by **lenglel** » Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:51 am

I'm going on what I read in the msd for mineral oil fumes, and
several different types of tpe, tpr, and tpu resin pellet mfgr.
web sites, but if you have a link to a source for your claim
you'd better post it, because otherwise I might think you
were trying to make people afraid to repair their own tpe
dolls so you can con them in to sending them to you,
never to be seen again. Suspicion comes with the price
of admission when you're a Newbie, irepairdolls.

lenglel · Post by **lenglel** » Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:24 am

http://docs.kraton.com/tl_warehouse/tec ... -12%29.pdf

Okay, I think I see what irepairdolls was getting at. Yes, if it's overheated, tpe will spew things like carbon monoxide into the
air, and yes, a soldering iron *will* overheat tpe/tpr materials. So, a temperature controlled iron is a very good idea if you're
doing your own repairs. Mine isn't. I cope with that by keeping it moving, and avoiding prolonged contact with the material.
It might be a good idea to practice on a wax candle before taking a hot iron to your doll.

xama4 · Post by **xama4** » Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:08 pm

Yeah, overheating TPE should be avoided. The TPE oil gel usually only needs to be heated to around 100-120c to bring it over the gel dissolution temp and 'melt' it. You do not need to and should not try to get to the melting point of the polymer. The mineral oil used is usually the limiting factor for temps, as once it starts fuming, it starts degrading/yellowing, and once the oil, the primary component, degrades the gel usually starts smelling bad.

I also think it's important to note that gel candles are made using the same SEBS/SEPS polymer oil gells as doll/toy TPE. (different concentrations, mixes and polymer molecular weights though)

The mineral oil is a fuel which is encapsulated by the polymer, and as such you should stay below the auto ignition temp of the mineral oils used at all costs. (typicly over 300c) Unfortunately, we have no idea what specific oils are used by the manufacturers, so the safest thing is to never get the mineral oil hot enough to fume.

samara78 · Post by **samara78** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 8:08 pm

I have bought a very small tpe doll. In addition to glue I will be using a home made needle I can heat up for the smaller parts of the repair, such as eye socket and a couple of small holes on the inner thigh/ groin. I will be making my hot needle home made. Of course I will do this work out side.

Edited to thank xama4 for this info about flammable oils inside of the doll