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Cyberskin Repair

Ding! POP! Crash! Thud! oops...let's get her all fixed up!
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nullpoint
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Cyberskin Repair

Post by nullpoint »

Hi. I've really enjoyed reading this forum but this is my first post. I was hoping someone here might be able to answer some questions I have.

Does anyone know how to repair cyberskin tears and such? What do you use and how do you go about it? (I've heard silicon won't work because of its negative reaction to cyberskin.)

Also, does anyone know where I can purchase the "raw" materials to make cyberskin? And is it more or less durable than silicon?

I thought if anyone would know, the people on this forum would!! [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

Anyway, thanks. [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif[/img]

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Mike Johnson
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Cyberskin Repair

Post by Mike Johnson »

I just repaired 3 "cyberskin" toys last night ha!

Cyberskin IS silicone, and soft silicone at that.

The same glue used on Realdolls glues cyberskin toys - Marine grade silicone glue, clear. It's $5 bucks a tube and works great!

[img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

Realdoll

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Raf
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Cyberskin Repair

Post by Raf »

Do you have an online link for that silicone glue?

Thnx,

-Raf

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Mike Johnson
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Post by Mike Johnson »

This will work for you!

It's cheap and very easy to use!

Silicone Glue

[img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

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fourmaki
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Post by fourmaki »

Just an idea at 350 melting point a sodering iron. I use it when playing with hot melt products.

Mark [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif[/img]

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Little Stewart
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Post by Little Stewart »

PVC can be glued with silicone adhesives. All cyberskin is NOT silicone, however. If it's hot melt, it's probably PVC. PVC is believed by some to be dangerous, especially when exposed to mucus membranes. Phthalates, common PVC softeners, are bad.
If a clean, lube-free latex condom doesn't melt after a week when in contact with the suspect material, it probably doesn't contain phthalates. Phthalates melt latex.
Stew

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Post by Nada »

... Hello fourmaki...

Myself,,, I would be using a breathing mask, of some sort, for that "soldering" work that you are doing, over a PVC product...(Or for working-over any plastics that you are melting and fuming-up.)

Checking the HAZMAT label, on that breathing equipment, might be a VERY GOOD idea, also. (Obtw, some fumes from burning substances can EAT or disolve through certain protective gear.)

Also, using a room that is AWAY from living and breathing things, might be a GREAT idea, TOO. [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif[/img]

... And,,, Hi there,,, Little Stew...
It is EXCELLENT,,, to see "Safety Minded" folks, around here!!! [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

Also,,, I would suspect that CURIOUS Minds, still, would REALLY like to know about what CyberOrgasMatrix (COM) gel is REALLY made of???

Sure,,, it is a fantasic and VERY flexible stuff... (BUT,,, is it a PVC product???)

And then, possibly, with "normal" sexual-usage, including VERY possible oral-usage, this could make you, a bit, sterial and lead to impotence problems.

(ie: It could KNOCK your dick, in the dirt, from the biological and then the psychological/physical sides.)

THEN,,, what is the point of having the Sex Doll or Toy, in the first place??? [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_frown.gif[/img]

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nullpoint
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Post by nullpoint »

Thanks for all the input. [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

If anyone is interested, I tried using silicone and experimented with it a little.(thnx for the suggestion mike [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] ). I didn't use the exact products suggested but tried two similar "clear" types I found locally. Even though they both said "clear", they dried to a somewhat milky white product when they had cleared. This left a somewhat noticeable cream look on the darker tan color of the torn object. Also, if the silicon was a blob, it could be peeled completely off of the cyberskin with no visible indication it had ever been there. But more importantly, although they were somewhat soft and pliant, they both cured to a Much firmer/harder substance than the cyberskin. This made the repair very noticeable tactually. My guess is it might even be painful given the right (wrong?) set of circumstances. [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_frown.gif[/img] But my guess is it might work pretty well otherwise.

Also, I tried the melting it with a soldering iron. (Mark-- THNX. I really appreciate your input on this! [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] ) A tiny 15 watt soldering iron is sufficient to melt it. This was the technique I settled on to actually do the repairs. It worked GREAT! But I can see how a technique(s) might be required to do a really good job. This repair was not so much a face or something requiring careful attention to aesthetics, but it seemed to join the tear into one solid piece. As far as increasing strength, this has yet to be tested... [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

Also, thanks to all who might be concerned about my(our) health. [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

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Kyle_Bronson
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Post by Kyle_Bronson »

This posting should answer some of the gel questions as they pertain to the proprietary elastomeric gel we use on the CybOrgasMatrix doll. However, it does not apply to questions about SuperBabe or RealDoll, which are soft silicones.

The gel we use is chemically different from silicone and vinyl. There are no PVCs or phthalates in the gel we use. We studied the MSDS sheets carefully when formulating the gel. The main ingredient is rated by the FDA to be Food Grade (meaning that it is safe to come in contact with food during preparation).

If you want to glue the gel (to itself or to any surface) try Cazy Glue Gel, available in most hardware stores. Silicones will not adhere. The Crazy Glue brand doesn't matter that much; we have tested most of them. That's how we were able to mount a torso on an upright display at the EroticaLA 2002 show.

Care must be taken not to get glue on any visible surface as it will form a hard, permanent skin that will crack when the gel is stretched, but it cannot be removed. Also, we recommend that you have enough glue on hand to finish the job. If the glue kisses any surface before you want it to, consider it glued. If that happens, gently scrape the gel away from the surface you glued it to with a sharp chisel or even a putty knife.

Be aware that if you glue anything to the front of the torso, the glue will feel hard and rigid compared with the gel. The glue doesn't stretch the way the gel does.

We are not aware of any negative reaction to silicone; it's just that silicone won't adhere well to our gel.

BTW, the term cyberskin is used and misused quite a lot. It is a trade name rather than a material designation. A lot of manufacturers are now using it as a hot buzzword in their ads. The correct designation for our gel is a tri-block copolymer. It is a combination of 2 molecules with massive cross-linkling on a molecular level. Imagine a matrix of rubber bands, each band joined at the end to other rubber bands in a 3D matrix. One of the molecules is the rigid end block (the knotted part of the rubber band in our example). This gives the gel shape memory, meaning that it allows the gel to return to its original shape after the deforming force has been removed. The other part of the molecule is the elastic part, which allows the gel to stretch up to 16-24 times its original length before tearing.

The gel requires both heat and shear forces to combine into one supermolecule. Heat alone will allow you to cut the gel, but it won't allow you to splice the gel back together. So you can use a soldering iron or a hot razor knife if you want to cut, but Crazy Glue is the only reliable way we know of to mend the cut.

If there are any questions I left unanswered, please feel free to call our toll-free number 866-8CYBORG or write us at info@cyborgasmatrix.com and we will do our best to answer them for you. We don't frequent this part of the forum, so we are unlikely to see your reply postings if you don't call our attention to them.

Regards,
Kyle

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Cyberskin Repair

Post by Corben_99 »

I could've sworn Mark said, to use regular super glue, mixed with cigarette ash, to repair small tears in silicone!!! I could be wrong. Hey Mark, what type of cigarettes? Marlboros??? [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_eek.gif[/img] [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

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Post by Jerry »

That's an emergency repair... it will feel hard. Used only to keep a bad tear from spreading by doing that DEEP within the silicone... or knowing that you will need to trim it out later when the correct repair is made.

Jerry

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fourmaki
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Post by fourmaki »

LITE only Na it does work, I didn't think it would. It does make a hard spot. I am still trying to think of an application. But another thing in our bag of tricks.

Mark [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif[/img]

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Post by Nada »

... To Kyle Bronson...
(Let us agree that CyberSkin and COM-Gel are vastly different... BUT, how is COM-gel with a latex or any "natural oil" product??? Is there a "Melting" interaction??? If "yes",,, then maybe,,, I have one small repair-idea for you, to research.)

And, for COM-Gel repair-work this might be one of the BETTER ideas, besides those very hard glues and that, clumsy at best, re-heating repair-technique.

I had a badly researched "accident" with a CyberSkin Vagina and a latex dildo, with softeners, that I was using for sizing it, within a doll...

What was interesting is that the dildo melted a VERY SOFT and CLEAN channel through it... And after two years, this same vaginal piece with its melted edges are, still, as soft and pliable as the original factory specs.

(PS... this Killer dildo is, now, far less aggressive after aging and Isopropyl alcohol treatments.) So, perhaps the "softening agents" have matured and been cleaned-up, a bit???

Anyway... Please, have your techs think about a latex-like glue or a "natural oil" substance for repairing your COM-gel.

(For all I know,,, a 2-part "latex-like glue" in an oil-molecule form,,, that uses an alcohol with very slight air-contact, as an "aging kicker",,, might resolve this repair-work, very nicely.)

...Simply put,,, apply a VERY SMALL quantity of this "10-second latex-like glue", add some required external pressures around the break (which might, also, add HEAT and START the action of the "glue") and then WAIT...... [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

And then, hopefully, the oil-like properties of this latex-like glue will carry it, OUT, of your COM-gel material, very naturally.

(Or,,, as a very general question,,, what "2-part material" is there, that would give you, only, the required HEAT for repairing a COM-gel crack (with you providing the external pressure for a needed catalyst, perhaps) and then disappear, completely, from the COM-gel???) This might be something like a directed and focused heat-source... (Is anyone, in the mood for doing a direct laser-FIX or perhaps, a VERY controlled thermite TEST!!! [img]modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

... Nada...
(Kyle, I suspect that MOST of our doll community would REALLY LIKE to stay-away from a bunch of PATCHED-UP dolls, similar to a LOT of those VERY marginally "fixed" RealDolls, that we find advertised, ALL over the Web. Okay???)

So,,, without a near-perfect and complete "cure" for patching your COM-gel products,,, I am afraid that this kind of MESS will SURELY happen, again.

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