My Tera doll's inner vinyl core has a slow leak. When the inner core is full... the doll has a realistic firm feeling plus the soft feeling to the outside rubber skin. When the inner core deflates... she feels like any other rubber doll. NOt terible... but no longer special either.
I am thinking about getting some 2-part expanding urethane foam to pour inside her vinyl cavity. In theory it would expand 15 to 20 times and fill the voids. This would give me a vinyl clad foamie inside a rubber doll.
I found this: http://www.fxwarehouseinc.com
Looks like a fairly good price on the gallon kit:
http://www.fxwarehouseinc.com/Merchant2 ... e=P4100-3G
This is a 3-pound foam... meaning that a 1 cubic foot peice would be 3 pounds. There is also a 10 pound foam kit:
http://www.fxwarehouseinc.com/Merchant2 ... =P4100-10G
The second one is more dense and only expands 3 times it's original size. I may break down and get the foam to try it out on a cheap inflatable toy to get a feel for how it would react... and if I should use the 3 or 10 pound version.
Anyone here have experience?
Jerry
Soft Urethane Foam - Tera Patrick
Jerry,
I used a similar product as a repair kit for a foam archery target. I mixed the catalyst/urethane 1/2 as directed, and it turned out as hard as rock, not pliable as advertised. Unfortunately, I mixed the whole contents, which left nothing for added experimentation. Also, my foam deer had a huge tumor that expanded out both sides!
Little to say, I was not pleased with the results.
I'd go with the 3 pound. Open or closed cell foam, it will be encased in a doll, which will reduce it's tendancy to collapse completely under weight.
Mahtek & Phoebe
I used a similar product as a repair kit for a foam archery target. I mixed the catalyst/urethane 1/2 as directed, and it turned out as hard as rock, not pliable as advertised. Unfortunately, I mixed the whole contents, which left nothing for added experimentation. Also, my foam deer had a huge tumor that expanded out both sides!
Little to say, I was not pleased with the results.I'd go with the 3 pound. Open or closed cell foam, it will be encased in a doll, which will reduce it's tendancy to collapse completely under weight.
Mahtek & Phoebe
All I ever wanted, all I ever needed is here, in my arms. Words are very unnecessary, they can only do harm.
There are ridgid and soft urethane foams. The archery targets are made from ridgid foams. (As are marine floats.) The soft urethane foams are used for prothetic makeup and filling latex appliances.
I'll likely get some of the 3 pound foam and fill a small beachball as a test. I can calculate the volume of a sphere and work back to get the desired theoretical mixture. Then test it's expanding features. Look for overpressure, etc. I would hate to bust her seams or make her look like Arnold.
Jerry
I'll likely get some of the 3 pound foam and fill a small beachball as a test. I can calculate the volume of a sphere and work back to get the desired theoretical mixture. Then test it's expanding features. Look for overpressure, etc. I would hate to bust her seams or make her look like Arnold.
Jerry
Yes it will produce heat. Not much.
The foam will expand at a constant rate. So if you get an uneven amount in say, a leg, a bulge will form there. The trick will be to get an even amount that will expand to fill the space but no more! By minimizing the catalyst, you should minimize the density. If there's more "give" to the foam, you won't notice the variations.
Mahtek & Phoebe
The foam will expand at a constant rate. So if you get an uneven amount in say, a leg, a bulge will form there. The trick will be to get an even amount that will expand to fill the space but no more! By minimizing the catalyst, you should minimize the density. If there's more "give" to the foam, you won't notice the variations.
Mahtek & Phoebe
All I ever wanted, all I ever needed is here, in my arms. Words are very unnecessary, they can only do harm.
My idea was to pour some in each foot and allow it to fill the legs only... then a second pour to fill each arm. This way the excess would be in the body cavity. The last pour would fill the body cavity.
Since she has a vinyl liner... ballooning wouldn't be a problem... only if there were enough pressure to burst the seams. BUt I would leave the valve open so the vent gasses could escape. I was thinking of placing her in a box with a hose from the inflation valve outside the box. Then using a squirrel fan to create a slight vacume in the box. It would keep her inflated... to proper shape... while the foam set up.
Jerry
Since she has a vinyl liner... ballooning wouldn't be a problem... only if there were enough pressure to burst the seams. BUt I would leave the valve open so the vent gasses could escape. I was thinking of placing her in a box with a hose from the inflation valve outside the box. Then using a squirrel fan to create a slight vacume in the box. It would keep her inflated... to proper shape... while the foam set up.
Jerry
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overhere
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If you can imagine this....I was thinking it would be possible to pour silicone into a latex doll, while keeping the doll inflated with a fish tank pump (or something) allowing air to escape through a small hole at about the same rate it is entering......floating the doll in water also to keep her shape. The whole process would take forever!!!!! But the air from the pump would allow the silicone to dry. I'm sure someone could figure out a way.....
It seems easier than trying to fill her with foam.
Ha Ha......would someone really have the patience?
(edited by me because it was too hard to picture!!)
It seems easier than trying to fill her with foam.
Ha Ha......would someone really have the patience?
(edited by me because it was too hard to picture!!)
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overhere
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Oh I see Jerry. I always thought silicone was a lot like....say caulk!! Anyway, your idea sounds like it would work, not to mention that if anyone could do it....I'm sure you could. (As you seem to have a bit of expertise judging from your posts.)
I'd agree that silicone would probably be best for the breasts and such. What a wonderful substance!!
I'd sure like to see what you'ld come up with!!!!!!
I'd agree that silicone would probably be best for the breasts and such. What a wonderful substance!!
I'd sure like to see what you'ld come up with!!!!!!
If you have ever worked with epoxy... like the stuff they use on cars... then you know how silicone works. You measure part-a by weight, then measure part-b by weight. When you mix them, you have about 90 minutes to fiddle with them before the chemical reaction starts to kick in... then between 4 to 12 hours for the chemical reaction to complete.
The expanding foam works the same way... but your mixing time is only 30 seconds. The chemical reaction produces heat... only about 130 degrees... too hot to handle, but not enough to damage the plastic or latex. The whole reaction takes about 15 minutes to completely cure.
Foam is a nasty substance to work with... it sticks like glue. If you spill it on your clothing... throw it away. because you won't get it off. I spilled some on the floor once... took days to get it all out.
The biggest hurtle is the reaction speed. If it gave me 90 minutes... I could mix up a batch and pump it into her evenly. Since I don't have that option... I need a larger pouring hole. This means either taking her head off or cutting the valve out and inserting a 2" PVC pipe for the pour. Another thought was to invert her, cut off the feet, and use her legs as the pour and vent. I would have to put her on a side... do one arm... then afterward do the other arm. Once the arms were done... position her in the box, apply a slight vacume to inflate her... and make the pour all at once. The excess would come out the open feet and would be trimmed. Later, her feet would be filled and replaced leaving a seam unfortunately... but that could be hidden with stockings.
I have the theory... but it will take a $300 doll and $150 worth of foam and silicone to see if it works or not. Ouch. If it doesn't work... then I toss out everything. Double ouch.
Jerry
The expanding foam works the same way... but your mixing time is only 30 seconds. The chemical reaction produces heat... only about 130 degrees... too hot to handle, but not enough to damage the plastic or latex. The whole reaction takes about 15 minutes to completely cure.
Foam is a nasty substance to work with... it sticks like glue. If you spill it on your clothing... throw it away. because you won't get it off. I spilled some on the floor once... took days to get it all out.
The biggest hurtle is the reaction speed. If it gave me 90 minutes... I could mix up a batch and pump it into her evenly. Since I don't have that option... I need a larger pouring hole. This means either taking her head off or cutting the valve out and inserting a 2" PVC pipe for the pour. Another thought was to invert her, cut off the feet, and use her legs as the pour and vent. I would have to put her on a side... do one arm... then afterward do the other arm. Once the arms were done... position her in the box, apply a slight vacume to inflate her... and make the pour all at once. The excess would come out the open feet and would be trimmed. Later, her feet would be filled and replaced leaving a seam unfortunately... but that could be hidden with stockings.
I have the theory... but it will take a $300 doll and $150 worth of foam and silicone to see if it works or not. Ouch. If it doesn't work... then I toss out everything. Double ouch.
Jerry
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overhere
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You've got it well thought out...in theory that is. Sure sounds like it would work. On the otherhand, I agree that it would be a bummer if it didn't work!!! Yea, OUCH!!!!!!
Yea, I've worked with the epoxy before. As you can tell...I've never worked with silicone...or foam for that matter...and know little about it. (But learning...thanks!) Seems the silicone is easier to work with than the foam as far as trying to make something as complicated as a womans body!!! No wonder the dolls are so expensive. I guess a good strong mold is what is really needed. Imagine that would cost a fortune!
The foam.....30 secs mixing....15 to cure....pretty hard stuff to work with.
Here's one to play around with......put a latex lady in a coffin size box....cover her with some kind of oil...........slowly fill the box with plaster (or something similar).....when the plaster dries you'll have a big plaster cube. Cut the plaster where the top of her head would be, deflate her and pull her out of the cube. Would you have a decent mold?????? Think it would work? If it did....you would have pretty much a seamless doll as you could just break away the plaster. Good thing is, it could be done on a very small scale first to test it.
Sorry, I sometimes get carried away.....just love to make things....and hear ideas.
Yea, I've worked with the epoxy before. As you can tell...I've never worked with silicone...or foam for that matter...and know little about it. (But learning...thanks!) Seems the silicone is easier to work with than the foam as far as trying to make something as complicated as a womans body!!! No wonder the dolls are so expensive. I guess a good strong mold is what is really needed. Imagine that would cost a fortune!
The foam.....30 secs mixing....15 to cure....pretty hard stuff to work with.
Here's one to play around with......put a latex lady in a coffin size box....cover her with some kind of oil...........slowly fill the box with plaster (or something similar).....when the plaster dries you'll have a big plaster cube. Cut the plaster where the top of her head would be, deflate her and pull her out of the cube. Would you have a decent mold?????? Think it would work? If it did....you would have pretty much a seamless doll as you could just break away the plaster. Good thing is, it could be done on a very small scale first to test it.
Sorry, I sometimes get carried away.....just love to make things....and hear ideas.
Hi Jerry,
I really liked your vacuum box idea! Made me laugh, you sly dog. For less than a minute a shop vac might work. too long and they over heat. I've read a 1/4 bleed hole is enough to keep it from cooking for long periods. Your mileage may very.
So if I understand correctly you are doing this because of a slow leak. Could you not use your marvelous vacuum box and inject your doll with small amounts of liquid latex through the air hole. If you put a vacuum gage on the box, you would see the pressure change when the latex was over the leak. If the box is not ridged you might see a pucker. "A slow leak" you say. I doubt you would notice a pressure change, bigger leaks may benefit from the Vbox. If it is really slow the liquid latex might seal it and not leak into the doll. Put in a cup rotate the doll in the box under vac insert aquarium hose into doll to vent. Reduce the vacuum as much as possible to prevent leaking liquid latex into the doll while stiff enough not to glue to itself inside. If you close the air valve there would no longer be a pressure difference between the doll and the box so the latex would stop migrating, but the cure would take longer. Repeat until sealed. Inject corn starch before deflating or it will stick together in side. I've not used liquid latex, all I know of it's properties I read on TDF. So a grain of salt is required. The same is true of latex covered inflatable dolls so..
The latex liquid might be a bad idea. If it did not work, it might interfere with your silicone or foam perhaps a thinned silicone would work.
Maybe a truckload of salt!
/\/\Ax Q.
I really liked your vacuum box idea! Made me laugh, you sly dog. For less than a minute a shop vac might work. too long and they over heat. I've read a 1/4 bleed hole is enough to keep it from cooking for long periods. Your mileage may very.
So if I understand correctly you are doing this because of a slow leak. Could you not use your marvelous vacuum box and inject your doll with small amounts of liquid latex through the air hole. If you put a vacuum gage on the box, you would see the pressure change when the latex was over the leak. If the box is not ridged you might see a pucker. "A slow leak" you say. I doubt you would notice a pressure change, bigger leaks may benefit from the Vbox. If it is really slow the liquid latex might seal it and not leak into the doll. Put in a cup rotate the doll in the box under vac insert aquarium hose into doll to vent. Reduce the vacuum as much as possible to prevent leaking liquid latex into the doll while stiff enough not to glue to itself inside. If you close the air valve there would no longer be a pressure difference between the doll and the box so the latex would stop migrating, but the cure would take longer. Repeat until sealed. Inject corn starch before deflating or it will stick together in side. I've not used liquid latex, all I know of it's properties I read on TDF. So a grain of salt is required. The same is true of latex covered inflatable dolls so..
The latex liquid might be a bad idea. If it did not work, it might interfere with your silicone or foam perhaps a thinned silicone would work.
Maybe a truckload of salt!
/\/\Ax Q.
Data Control and IBM, Science is mankind's brother, and I realize that no one's wise, to my plastic fantastic Lover. From the song, Plastic Fantastic Lover by Jefferson Airplane 1968
I was thinking of the same idea a while ago, however it involved a thin layer of fiberglass, applied first to the front portion of the body, then a second fiberglass mold made on the back half of the portion. That way the weight would not cause any distortion. The doll would remain in the mold however when you pour the foam in, you would still have to maintain air pressure inside of her. This way the foam will not push against the skin however will push itself into the cavaties, then move upwards so onoverhere wrote: Here's one to play around with......put a latex lady in a coffin size box....cover her with some kind of oil...........slowly fill the box with plaster (or something similar).....when the plaster dries you'll have a big plaster cube. Cut the plaster where the top of her head would be, deflate her and pull her out of the cube. Would you have a decent mold?????? Think it would work? If it did....you would have pretty much a seamless doll as you could just break away the plaster. Good thing is, it could be done on a very small scale first to test it.
ideas.
However once again I was not sure how much heat fiberglass produces when the two parts are mixed. I was thinking if the heat became substansial to put a thin layer of silicone over the doll and then forming a mothermold with fiberglass. However I eventually just gave up on it and decided with the costs involved I might as well make my own doll from scratch
Jeff
You must remember that the Tera doll has a vinyl inner doll. Unlike latex, the vinyl won't "balloon out" with overinflation... it gets to a certain point and pops along a seam. By putting her in a box and using the squirrel cage blower rated for long term use... not like those in a shop vac... I would get a 1 or 2 PSI differential in pressure... not much... but enough to force her to hold the proper form. Also... by having her in a head-down position, the bulk of the mass would be pressing against the upper chest area and shoulders... I.E. the breasts would be filled rather firrmly and the remaining foam would flow up and out the legs.
After consideration... it is tempting to pour in a quart or two of silicone to the layer between the rubber and vinyl layers... then inflate the vinyl section. This would force the silicone into the breasts, armpits, etc. All the voids that the vinyl doesn't get to. Then... after the silicone cures... do the foaming. The silicone and the rubber body in conjunction with the vinyl should keep her shape well.
This would not work with a regular rubber doll because she would distort... it could be done (in theory) with a plain vinyl doll. Having the rubber body means that even if a seam should get overpressure and pop... the foam would be contained within the rubber body and would fill any remaining voids and solidify. Unless I grossly miscalculate... it shoud expand well.
I'll buy a beachball or similar to experiment on first however. If it fails miserably... then I'm out $75 not $400. If it works... then I guess I would do it. Right now... I just need to save some money... many bills to take care of with shop equipment, etc. (Like replacing 4 Geckodrives damaged by a possible lightning strike... $50 each. )
Jerry
Yeah.... I know... what the hell is a geckodrive...
http://geckodrive.com/item.htbml?order_id=&item_id=G320
After consideration... it is tempting to pour in a quart or two of silicone to the layer between the rubber and vinyl layers... then inflate the vinyl section. This would force the silicone into the breasts, armpits, etc. All the voids that the vinyl doesn't get to. Then... after the silicone cures... do the foaming. The silicone and the rubber body in conjunction with the vinyl should keep her shape well.
This would not work with a regular rubber doll because she would distort... it could be done (in theory) with a plain vinyl doll. Having the rubber body means that even if a seam should get overpressure and pop... the foam would be contained within the rubber body and would fill any remaining voids and solidify. Unless I grossly miscalculate... it shoud expand well.
I'll buy a beachball or similar to experiment on first however. If it fails miserably... then I'm out $75 not $400. If it works... then I guess I would do it. Right now... I just need to save some money... many bills to take care of with shop equipment, etc. (Like replacing 4 Geckodrives damaged by a possible lightning strike... $50 each. )
Jerry
Yeah.... I know... what the hell is a geckodrive...
http://geckodrive.com/item.htbml?order_id=&item_id=G320
Why not do that, after the silicone cures stuff the vinyl baffle with polyfil?I have a Latex Lady stuffed very firm(with polyfil) & the consistancy is quite simular to foam.Jerry wrote:
After consideration... it is tempting to pour in a quart or two of silicone to the layer between the rubber and vinyl layers... then inflate the vinyl section. This would force the silicone into the breasts, armpits, etc. All the voids that the vinyl doesn't get to. Then... after the silicone cures... do the foaming. The silicone and the rubber body in conjunction with the vinyl should keep her shape well.
I'm sure someone has tried this or something simular, unfortunately they're not reading this thread to give their results.Experimenting can get expensive, I know LOL!
This is an interesting project & I believe it can be done.Good luck & keep us posted.
Freddy
