WM172D Pelvic Reconstruction + Cybervagina?!

[Cinnamon2077]

Hi gang, nearly 6 months ago ( time flies! ) I broke my doll's pelvis trying to move her leg a bit... she has quite long legs (172cm tall, after all...), and I guess the leverage was too much after nearly a year's-worth of playtime. Crack! Oh dear. Well, eventually, I got around to extracting her pelvic bone... this was MAJOR surgery, made a big mess, but it also provided me with an opportunity! ( This thread starts as a Work In Progress )

NOTES: This is WMDoll's Evo skeleton that I shall be working on. ( bought in December 2021, arrived at my door in Jan 2022... for reference. )

So first, let's take a look at the metal damage shall we?

2023.05.10 broken_pelvis_1.jpg (348.27 KiB) Viewed 881 times

Yes, OUCH!! That would have done a lot of internal damage left alone. Here's a closer look:

2023.05.10 broken_pelvis_2.jpg (380.74 KiB) Viewed 881 times

And one more, juxtaposed with the joint that's still intact:

2023.05.10 broken_pelvis_3.jpg (385.78 KiB) Viewed 881 times

Okay, great. So what's the plan? Well... I ordered my 172D with the swappable vagina insert option, which means there's a large abdominal cavity. Now, these inserts SUCK, although technically they don't and that's the whole problem, lol, because there's no venting of trapped air when attempting to insert the insert... so why not overhaul this area with an electronic sex toy insert? Well that's just madness... or it was, if the doll was otherwise fine, but I just had to cut out her entire pelvis and extract it out through between her legs... i.e., I gotta reconstruct her insides anyway. Oh, and what about reinforcing the pelvic bone so it doesn't snap again? Definitely!

So what's the reconstructed pelvis going to look like, and how's it going to support electronic inserts? As you can see from photo #1, the pelvic bone is drawn around the internal vaginal cavity in an inverted U-shape, with the spine attaching at the top, and the hips attaching either side at the bottom. This means, when you move the legs, the entire leg torques the pelvis at those corner joints and Snap! ( Not ideal if you like.... active play... ) So what I'm going to do is put a half-circular bridge, possibly two, spanning the gap a bit above the hip joints to create an Д-shape. The lowest bridge will arc through what would be the anal cavity area at the height of the human tail bone ( the coccyx ). I can see we're gonna need some images...

These are both courtesy of wikipedia. First, front-on, and then side on:



One thing you may have noticed when lifting your doll is the lack of a tail bone, or even, any lower spine what-so-ever. I'll be building some extra structure into my doll's pelvis, partly to strengthen it for those gorgeous long legs, and partly for some experiments with electronic vagina toys as inserts. This has meant expanding the vaginal cavity through into the anal cavity, so I can re-use this space for bones. ( I don't want an anal cavity anyway tbh. ) Lots of TPE material has been carved out and saved in a clean tin for later... no photos to share atm, but I'll get onto that once I start reconstruction.

Oh, and since I've never done any welding in my life, I'm gonna spend some time practicing first ( machine and rods arrived recently, YouTube has already been binged, wish me luck... deffo gonna need it. )

Later!

[DollPhilosopher]

This is an ambitious project, and I look forward to the results! The idea to recreate something like a proper pelvis is super cool, actually.

[Khaossinua]

Oh, and since I've never done any welding in my life, I'm gonna spend some time practicing first ( machine and rods arrived recently, YouTube has already been binged, wish me luck... deffo gonna need it. )

Later!

Look. I have worked as an electrician for 9 years, with metals for 20 years, and I still can't do electric welding. Therefore, I would advise not to try to reconstruct this structure, but to find a U-shaped structure of this thickness, cut it along the length of the pelvis and weld the attachment points of the legs and pelvis, otherwise it will be unreliable

Без названия.jpeg (9.6 KiB) Viewed 858 times

If it is not possible to find such a design in your region / state - look for a small piece of pipe of a smaller diameter than the pelvic tubes. It can be inserted and attached with tacks to one part of the U-shaped structure, put on the second on top and scald it all well. The insert must be free of rust or paint and should be cleaned with a grinder or sandpaper.

Good luck!

[RevJack]

Cinnamon
Remember this is STAINLESS STEEL we are welding, not regular steel. It takes either a MIG welders neutral gas or special SS Flux wire to weld. It's not good old carbon steel. No cheapie Harbor Freight welder will have enough amps to weld stainless.

[Cinnamon2077]

This is an ambitious project, and I look forward to the results! The idea to recreate something like a proper pelvis is super cool, actually.

Thanks DollPhilosopher. Admittedly I'm more used to working with polygons and having an "undo" feature, so this will be... interesting

Look. I have worked as an electrician for 9 years, with metals for 20 years, and I still can't do electric welding. Therefore, I would advise not to try to reconstruct this structure, but to find a U-shaped structure of this thickness, cut it along the length of the pelvis and weld the attachment points of the legs and pelvis, otherwise it will be unreliable

...

If it is not possible to find such a design in your region / state - look for a small piece of pipe of a smaller diameter than the pelvic tubes. It can be inserted and attached with tacks to one part of the U-shaped structure, put on the second on top and scald it all well. The insert must be free of rust or paint and should be cleaned with a grinder or sandpaper.

Good luck!

Noted Khaossinua, but I'm doing this anyway. I'll be doing some practice and tests before working on the real frame, and I'll keep your tips in mind too. Grinder, sand paper, wet n dry, metal files, Dremel... and most importantly, a willing mind... gonna figure this out one way or another!

Cinnamon
Remember this is STAINLESS STEEL we are welding, not regular steel. It takes either a MIG welders neutral gas or special SS Flux wire to weld. It's not good old carbon steel. No cheapie Harbor Freight welder will have enough amps to weld stainless.

Hi RevJack, way ahead of you I'll be stick welding with 2.6mm 309 electrodes ( not 308; exact steel is unknown, so 309 it is ). Yes, I will need to practice and not use too much juice.

[seagull]

Personally, I'd stick a solid or heavy walled Stainless tube bend/elbow inside the thin walled tube

[Kaori Kusanagi]

If you have any thrift stores around, sometimes they have bags of (sometimes stainless steel) socket wrench sockets of various sizes. If not, hardware stores have singles of about every size available. If you check the inside diameter of the tubing you have to weld, you could get one of those sockets in that size or a hair smaller, then file or grind the inside of the tubing to clear out all the old spatter and weld lumps, insert the socket in one of the diagonally-cut tube ends, then line up the other tube over it, and weld the whole set together. Then you have at least the corner reinforced, so it is not depending solely on your welding of a thin tube , but is spreading some of the load thru the socket. If you also weld thru the tubing (you can drill a small hole to weld thru) into the socket at it's ends, it will help more.

[seagull]

[Nowhere]

That'd be an easy fix with a tig and some 309 filler wire and any of the harbor freight tig welders would have plenty of power too
Stainless is easy to weld, but it'll take some more specialized equipment to do it well.
I wonder if that was the last weld for that unit and possibly blew out causing a weak spot that eventually failed catastrophically. That hip section is essentially a pressure vessel and those can be difficult to weld if there's no "vent". Those welds aren't very "bright" either, conservation of shielding gas was a priority to whomever made those welds.

[Cinnamon2077]

Okay, quite a bit of practice later I've moved from "clueless welder" to "keen amateur", and welded her pelvis back up.

The 2.6mm sticks were waaaay to thick ( burns clean though thin metal, no real joy with low amperage ), so, I sourced what I could from the local store and used 1.6mm 6013 @40 amps, which isn't perfect but it's solid. Like, really solid again. And mixing mild steel into stainless, well, it is what it is.

The main thing is, it holds up. I didn't take any photos of it before trying it inside, so I'll do that when I take it out again for the next stage. Its current form is the original inverted-U, with some reinforcing on both sides. I'm currently looking at the space inside the abdomen, imagining how the cross-piece close to the hip joints should go. And I also want to try different washers on the hips and lower spine, to experiment.

I tried an electronic vagina toy inside her and it's... good?! Anyway, short on time at the moment, more later

edit:

That'd be an easy fix with a tig and some 309 filler wire and any of the harbor freight tig welders would have plenty of power too
Stainless is easy to weld, but it'll take some more specialized equipment to do it well.
I wonder if that was the last weld for that unit and possibly blew out causing a weak spot that eventually failed catastrophically. That hip section is essentially a pressure vessel and those can be difficult to weld if there's no "vent". Those welds aren't very "bright" either, conservation of shielding gas was a priority to whomever made those welds.

Hi Nowhere, yeah I was very much drooling over tig machines and what they can do from watching videos. They can do really nice art, just push metal around, all the time shielding the work under argon gas to keep the oxygen away, and absolutely no slag inclusions to worry about from sticks... I had so much grinding / re-filling to do to eliminate slag inclusions using stick. I got there in the end, but for sure if I keep up hobby welding I'll grab some argon off Amazon 'cos my little stick welder can also do tig!

[seagull]

There's no stopping you now dude

[jojoquinoa]

Thank you for the detailed pics Cinnamon, it looks like the factory welds weren't that great to begin with. Such a shame that the high quality metal tubing used in the EVO skeleton was welded using the wrong processes (for economic reasons no doubt), so no surprise why the failure was at the weld. Have you contacted anyone at WM regarding this? I imagine that this kind of damage falls under manufacturing defect. A proper weld should not fail.

All the beads have the characteristic oxidized/ grey appearance, indicating improper technique, inexperience, or a combination of both.The heat affected zone is also excessive. Generally, this means all the welds are weaker than their base substrate. The other side may suffer the same fate in the near future since there appears to be some porosity present in the 3rd picture. My guess is that they used flux MIG at the factory with minimal to no QC/ certification on the individually fabricated parts. I know you have performed the repair on this already... but if cost wasn't a concern, and in the interest of longevity, would it be out of the question to fabricate (or have someone else fabricate) a whole new pelvic girdle? Just a couple tubes, tie rod-looking ends, and sheet metal for the bracket? Seems like this would be something I would tackle once, the right way, and be done with it. The nerd in me would jump at the oppurtunity to replace it with something lightweight, exotic, yet sturdy. After all, this part does support the bulk of the doll's mass, when standing at least.

Most guys that take welding seriously will say the original pelvis is trashed, won't support any kind of stress induced upon it, and chuck it in scrap bin. This is an ambitious undertaking for sure and hope you get her back together soon!

[Cameramike]

Just a thought I would do what you did on the other side that way your know that the other side is taken care of two. Another thought you can take a large washer and pound it on a pipe to curve it and tack weld it for better strength when there is a hole that you pass a bolt through use one on each side for strength. Also I would wrap the welds so damage doesn’t occur inside the tpe possibility you might find bolts with Allen torx that thread into each other so you could adjust the tightness of the joints that way you could just locate and slice and insert Allen wrenches on both sides to adjust... just food for thought... great work and thanks for the details....

[Daddyfinger2]

Had the same break on the Evo frame on a IronTech 163cm Aisonia. The break was in the exact same location. I had the doll since Feb 2023 in a standing position (unused mind you) and she collapsed under her own weight. the vertical tube from the leg tore thru her left side abdominal area like a punji spike.As it turns out the manufacturer was not interested in offering any repair assistance telling my vendor there is no service after the sale. They did ask for detailed pictures of the frame break but nothing else came from them. I inspected the broken tube and found it was being held together by 3 tack welds. a bevel going was around the rest of the tube but no weld was done leaving three visible gaps in the connection. It's apparent that whom ever was welding this piece framed the part then failed to complete it. it somehow got moved along without a QC and ended up in my doll. sadly this is the second IronTech doll I've had with a welding problem on the left side. the other one had tack welds holding the hip bolts in place so they wouldn't come loose. well the tack came off and eventually the leg became completely loose. It was an easy repair with a new lock washer and thread locker. the one with the broken frame though was a whole other problem. I had to stick weld the part back on. the tpe damage was significant. My vendor provided me with TPE material to close her back up and touch up the damaged areas. either way i decided to retire this doll since it was making poping and creeking noises at the left side of the frame. after a few weeks i disassembled her and harvested all her TPE as repair material . the frame after all the TPE was removed showed that all the right side welding was flawless. perfect clean stacked dimes on the welds. the left side had spotty welds, burned and scorched metal tubing with gaps everywhere. it was clear that two separate welders had worked on this frame. one was skilled and proficient at their job while the other had no business doing this kind of work.

[GotDolls]

I also had exactly the same break, exactly the same place, on a WM166C that I'd only had 3 months from new. Very disappointed. Tried to fix her with an L-piece but my DIY skills just aren't up to that level.

That's two WMs and two critical failures for me now. The first was a torn vag on our first date which over a few months developed into a "vaganus" and after just 14 months we had to part company.