Going DIY for a Torso only doll. (TPE)

[E-Liz94]

First post... I'm honestly trying to gauge if my concept is even really possible with what I have in mind. Originally I was going to make a doll out of a RTV silicone/cornstarch mix but at the testing phase I crunched the numbers and learned that the price would have been astronomical even if I got legit buckets of silicone and I didn't feel like crafting foam padding.

8 months later I've gotten back into the design phase of a TPE based version. I plan on buying a rather large steel hopper and superheating it with a heat gun that can bring it up to temperature. I still have a ton of RTV silicone tubes laying around so I plan on making the mold itself out of it from the object I have, though I hope the acetic acid smell doesn't leech into the TPE (as much as I love salt and vinegar chips, this would be a problem). Silicone is rated up to 500 degrees fahrenheit so I'm not worried about it melting or anything. AS this is my first project that I intend to actually go forward with, I'm a bit unsure what TPE grade to use and the amount required.

Mold Object (PS-P907BK) ROXY DISPLAY


This is the base I'm starting with. I plan on modifying it before applying the mold over it. Maybe wider hips, more shapely butt and definitely a larger chest. Still in the research phase of how to do that effectively and cleanly, I'm not a sculptor and I don't have a 3D printer. Might use a knife and cut out the plastic in certain areas, replace it with clay to get the shapes... but thats on the extreme side of things.

As for the skeleton, I'm probably just going to emulate the standard trapezoidal hip/lower body shape that leads into the spine flex point. I'm considering using ball joints for all of them. My concern is that I don't know if I'm supposed to put some kind of protection over them before pouring molten TPE into the mold, its one of the top reasons I came to gauge a response from people that might actually have experience making dolls.

The important bits... I don't really know if I should buy something and retrofit or try my hand at it? I'm confident that I definitely get the outside to look the part, but having the insides work might be another story.

Summary
Doll will be out of TPE, planning on melting a bunch in a steel hopper with a heat gun capable of going up to crazy high temperatures. Unsure of TPE type and amount, unknown if chemical additives needed to "soften" it?. RTV silicone based sealant will be used to create the mold around the object, concerned about smell leaching into TPE, but I don't think it will stick or melt. Modifications to doll shape, I do have clay on hand but I'm not really a skilled sculptor, would appreciate any suggestions. Skeleton will be PVC based, shaped into the industry standard skeleton shape, will most likely use ball joints for hips and spine point, unsure if joints need protection prior to pour and if pipes should be filled in with something for reinforcement. Important bits... uh...

I'm a very technical minded person, but I have limited tools and space so I can't be too ambitious with the product I'm going for.

I hope you can share your concerns, support or wisdom about my idea.

[Knuckle head]

I am planning to do the same project before trying to make a full size doll.

Melting TPE and working with it is a pain in the back.
Your best bit is to make a solid core over the skeleton to reduce silicone amount and weight. Maybe some foam or cardboard with tapes for the core?
You can make the insert only from medical silicone to save on cost.

[E-Liz94]

I really don't want to use silicone at all aside from the small amount I have on hand for making the mold as don't have a long term place with good ventilation and ideal temperature for setting a body.

However, I did think about making thick hollow tubes of TPE that could slide over the PVC skeleton to not only cut down on the size of the main pour but also protect the joints. If that makes any sense?

[E-Liz94]

Don't know how the site views double posting but...

I realized that unless I make the protective TPE sleeves for the PVC pipes... they're probably going to melt when the molten TPE is poured. Wonder what the ideal metal pipe material would be... or if I could even use something like wood for the main structure.

[Wheezer]

OK a few observations ....

I realized that unless I make the protective TPE sleeves for the PVC pipes... they're probably going to melt when the molten TPE is poured.

Uhhh ... WHAT ???
You want to protect the PVC pipes from the hot molten TPE by using TPE sleeves ???
What do you think will happen to the thin TPE sleeves when it gets hit with hot molten TPE ?

As to other stuff ....

A silicone mold for TPE works OK for some stuff. But TPE does react with silicone.

You can inhibit it to some extend with mold release agent as a barrier, but once the silicone mold reaches a certain temperature you will run into problems.
A full body or torso silicone mold for TPE would be ..er .. "interesting".
Perhaps use it to make a thin TPE skin for use over another base material.

Trying to heat up a hopper of raw TPE pellets using a heat gun with a "crazy high temperature" would be a long endeavor that would probably lead to a lot of smoke and burned TPE.
Probably more burned than melted.

Your enthusiasm is admirable, just do some research and try a few small things before scaling up to a full size doll or torso.

A good start is to review the topic HERE (viewtopic.php?t=157827) and do some searching on TDF.

Good luck.
Cheers!
... W ...

[E-Liz94]

Going to use metal pipes. TPE I'm looking at only needs 350 max temperature to be workable. Hopper stockpot is purchased and ready, just need a method of churning it automatically to distribute the heat. Working on making a tipping plate to ensure everything goes out for the main pour.

[Wheezer]

Sounds interesting.

As it progresses post some pictures of your gear and results.

Good luck.
... W ..

[E-Liz94]

Will do. So far I just have the unmodified negative, tubes of rtv and the giant pot. Next will probably be acquiring an induction stovetop capable of the weight, size and have precision temperature control. Then I would also need a method of churning the heated TPE and having a platform that will not only hold both the stovetop and broiling pot of liquid TPE, but also allow me to tilt it an angle to get it all out once I've almost dumped more than half. Google honey pail tipper for a very basic idea of what I'm doing.

[Wheezer]

OK ... interesting.

Just be safe since you will be dealing with a lot of molten TPE at 150C-175C.
Nasty if a big bunch gets on you.

I left a comment on your other thread about coloring and a question about your "Shore 00 TPE" along with a hardness chart.

Also one item is that in your other thread there was a link to a video on how they make dolls.
Those were REALDOLLS and they use two part room temperature silicone.
That is not hot melted TPE. So don't look at that as how they mold TPE sex dolls.

I admire your enthusiasm, but before you get too deeply committed perhaps you might think a bit.
You COULD get a new or used TPE torso for not that much, probably less that your gear costs.
Try it out and see what you like or do not like.

If you do not like it, want to improve it or make your own, then you would be more than half way there.
Remove the TPE from that torso and you have almost all the TPE you need. Just melt it down and add more if needed.
Once skinned you would also have a skeleton to either reuse or improve. Thus saving a lot of steps and possible flubs.

Just something to consider.

Cheers!
... W ...

[E-Liz94]

Alright so I'm skipping around a bit part wise. Purchasing pipe and fittings for the skeleton joints, preparing to build the "furnace" tilt table with some adjustable slotted rod/rail things. I gave up trying to use an indexed/serrated joint for the hips because most sellers suck at giving their product the correct name, and the ones I did find that worked were $70 for one joint... so I'm going into various things to make up for that.