Need help with complicated vagina repair/recore operation

[RevJack]

To be clear,
1) I was being dramatic with the steel wool.
2) I took no offense whatsoever.
3) I'm only cranky when I'm sober.

Reverend Jack

[Dees luver]

3) I'm only cranky when I'm sober.

Reverend Jack

Cheers Rev!

[Wheezer]

It is hard to get rid of the uncured silicone inside, its a greasy mess. Just washing your hands after is a mess, nothing seems to remove it, acetone, alcohol, bensin, nothing.. Using a bottle brush seems like a good idea, i'll see if i can find some of those.

Odd as it seems, sometime I add MORE oil to remove stuff like that.

That is add some mineral oil to get the oil/grease in suspension of a thinner liquid, then clean that out.
If not mineral oil, then maybe try some silicone spray lube up her cooch to get the greasy gobs thinned out enough to clean out.

Once you get the goop to a thinner consistency, it is usually much easier to remove.

Cheers!
...W...

[dparson]

Thelord001, I'm in the middle of figuring out the best repair possible for silicone vaginal tears as well. I've tried sil-poxy, psycho paint, and a no-name silicone doll adhesive from Amazon. All 3 of these bond well to the 1+ year old silicone of my doll so hopefully after you do more cleaning and try the psycho paint, it will actually stick.

Of the 3 I like the no-name silicone doll adhesive the best, it comes in a tan color unlike the psycho paint and sil-poxy which both require a colorant (if you want a tan color), it flows like psycho paint so it's easy to get a smooth surface (unlike sil-poxy). All 3 are much harder than the silicone of the 2 dolls I have (but the no-name adhesive is the softest) and is the reason I'm still experimenting.

flesh silicone testing.jpg (436.61 KiB) Viewed 190 times

There's a measurement called "shore hardness" https://www.smooth-on.com/page/duromete ... ess-scale/ and I confirmed with Smooth-on that psycho paint is shore A-30, which is between a rubber band and pencil eraser on the A scale, so it's not very soft. You won't really notice the hardness when it's a thin layer, like 1 mm thick, but past that the hardness becomes more recognizable. The no-name silicone doll adhesive is slightly softer, possibly A-25, while sil-poxy is much harder or at least feels that way due its rough consistency (it doesn't flow and smooth itself out like the other ones as you can see in the picture above). They make measurement devices for shore hardness but I'm hoping not to purchase one, so I don't know the exact hardnesses of the no-name stuff or sil-poxy.

Shore hardness 00 - A - D.png (166.48 KiB) Viewed 190 times

Since the no-name adhesive is still harder than the doll's silicone, it is prone to cause tearing (viewtopic.php?p=2456884#p2456884). This was 6 weeks after my initial repair so that's something at least. If you don't use it to fill gaps and instead simply bond torn silicone back together, this "glue" will be very thin and its firmness won't be noticeable. But if you are filling gaps all 3 of these solutions are simply hard, so I'm continuing the hunt for a softer repair solution.

I bought some Smooth-on Eco-flex OO-20 and mixed it with psycho paint in various proportions to create samples ranging in hardness from OO-20 up to OO-72; where OO-20 is just pure eco-flex and OO-72 is pure psycho paint (on the OO scale).

hardness mixing 1.jpg (1.04 MiB) Viewed 190 times

hardness mixing 2.jpg (770.15 KiB) Viewed 190 times

The mixtures worked and each sample had a noticeable difference in hardness, but unfortunately, and to my dismay, even pure OO-20 is still harder than the silicone on my dolls. They estimate OO-20 to be between the softness of a gummi bear and gel shoe and I'd agree, so if you have any gummi candy the OO-20 is just a little firmer than it. I should have compared a gummi candy to my dolls so I wouldn't have been so surprised. And note gummi candy doesn't stretch all that much compared to the silicone used in this part of our dolls, so OO-20 is still not great if you're going to be building up a thick area. Plus the pure eco-flex doesn't have any adhesive additives like we need...

So I continued searching and discovered there's yet another scale below OO called OOO, and it can be achieved with Smooth-on products by using an additive they sell called Slacker https://www.smooth-on.com/products/slacker/. It was just dumb luck that they recommend using the eco-flex OO-20 that I just bought to create the softer mixtures, so I got lucky in that regard. I found a silicone baby doll maker on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/@CarolynDoughtyDolls) that has this OOO scale chart and it matches up with the technical recommendations Smooth-on publishes, so I ordered some to see if a combination of slacker + eco-flex OO-20 + psycho-paint (to get some adhesive chemicals in the mixture) will actually create something that matches the softness and will stick. The slacker wasn't in stock and currently has an ETA of March 20, so hopefully I'll know more by the end of the month.

Shore hardness 000.png (1.13 MiB) Viewed 190 times

But in the meantime, if psycho paint doesn't cure for you, maybe try the doll adhesive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C1NDMSF9 It's the easiest and softest solution I've found so far and since it's a 1 part mixture rather than the 2 parts of psycho paint, its secret concoction of chemicals is different and is maybe worth a shot. Don't put it on too thick, just build up thin layers with a toothpick, adding one every 30 minutes. If you use a thick layer it takes forever to cure, even overnight wasn't long enough I discovered. Another thing to try is cutting away some of the exposed surface that you're attempting to bond to so that you have a fresh surface to work with, but the downside of that is you'll need to build up the missing silicone and so far, everything I've tried is a lot harder than the doll's existing silicone. It can work and be acceptable and last a few more months, but just not back to the original softness. Good luck!

[Thelord001]

Thelord001, I'm in the middle of figuring out the best repair possible for silicone vaginal tears as well. I've tried sil-poxy, psycho paint, and a no-name silicone doll adhesive from Amazon. All 3 of these bond well to the 1+ year old silicone of my doll so hopefully after you do more cleaning and try the psycho paint, it will actually stick.

Of the 3 I like the no-name silicone doll adhesive the best, it comes in a tan color unlike the psycho paint and sil-poxy which both require a colorant (if you want a tan color), it flows like psycho paint so it's easy to get a smooth surface (unlike sil-poxy). All 3 are much harder than the silicone of the 2 dolls I have (but the no-name adhesive is the softest) and is the reason I'm still experimenting.
flesh silicone testing.jpg

There's a measurement called "shore hardness" https://www.smooth-on.com/page/duromete ... ess-scale/ and I confirmed with Smooth-on that psycho paint is shore A-30, which is between a rubber band and pencil eraser on the A scale, so it's not very soft. You won't really notice the hardness when it's a thin layer, like 1 mm thick, but past that the hardness becomes more recognizable. The no-name silicone doll adhesive is slightly softer, possibly A-25, while sil-poxy is much harder or at least feels that way due its rough consistency (it doesn't flow and smooth itself out like the other ones as you can see in the picture above). They make measurement devices for shore hardness but I'm hoping not to purchase one, so I don't know the exact hardnesses of the no-name stuff or sil-poxy.
Shore hardness 00 - A - D.png

Since the no-name adhesive is still harder than the doll's silicone, it is prone to cause tearing (viewtopic.php?p=2456884#p2456884). This was 6 weeks after my initial repair so that's something at least. If you don't use it to fill gaps and instead simply bond torn silicone back together, this "glue" will be very thin and its firmness won't be noticeable. But if you are filling gaps all 3 of these solutions are simply hard, so I'm continuing the hunt for a softer repair solution.

I bought some Smooth-on Eco-flex OO-20 and mixed it with psycho paint in various proportions to create samples ranging in hardness from OO-20 up to OO-72; where OO-20 is just pure eco-flex and OO-72 is pure psycho paint (on the OO scale).
hardness mixing 1.jpg
hardness mixing 2.jpg

The mixtures worked and each sample had a noticeable difference in hardness, but unfortunately, and to my dismay, even pure OO-20 is still harder than the silicone on my dolls. They estimate OO-20 to be between the softness of a gummi bear and gel shoe and I'd agree, so if you have any gummi candy the OO-20 is just a little firmer than it. I should have compared a gummi candy to my dolls so I wouldn't have been so surprised. And note gummi candy doesn't stretch all that much compared to the silicone used in this part of our dolls, so OO-20 is still not great if you're going to be building up a thick area. Plus the pure eco-flex doesn't have any adhesive additives like we need...

So I continued searching and discovered there's yet another scale below OO called OOO, and it can be achieved with Smooth-on products by using an additive they sell called Slacker https://www.smooth-on.com/products/slacker/. It was just dumb luck that they recommend using the eco-flex OO-20 that I just bought to create the softer mixtures, so I got lucky in that regard. I found a silicone baby doll maker on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/@CarolynDoughtyDolls) that has this OOO scale chart and it matches up with the technical recommendations Smooth-on publishes, so I ordered some to see if a combination of slacker + eco-flex OO-20 + psycho-paint (to get some adhesive chemicals in the mixture) will actually create something that matches the softness and will stick. The slacker wasn't in stock and currently has an ETA of March 20, so hopefully I'll know more by the end of the month.
Shore hardness 000.png

But in the meantime, if psycho paint doesn't cure for you, maybe try the doll adhesive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C1NDMSF9 It's the easiest and softest solution I've found so far and since it's a 1 part mixture rather than the 2 parts of psycho paint, its secret concoction of chemicals is different and is maybe worth a shot. Don't put it on too thick, just build up thin layers with a toothpick, adding one every 30 minutes. If you use a thick layer it takes forever to cure, even overnight wasn't long enough I discovered. Another thing to try is cutting away some of the exposed surface that you're attempting to bond to so that you have a fresh surface to work with, but the downside of that is you'll need to build up the missing silicone and so far, everything I've tried is a lot harder than the doll's existing silicone. It can work and be acceptable and last a few more months, but just not back to the original softness. Good luck!

Thanks for the reply. I See you have put a lot of work into finding a good repair method and im looking forward to hear the result of your attempt to create a softer mixture by the end of the month.
The 2-component silicone i got from the manufacturer creates a very soft and nice material, just like the one thats originally in the dolls vagina. But the problem is, i cant get it to adhere to the vagina walls. But, maybe if i use a thin layer of that psycho paint or the "no name" 1 component glue to prepare to walls, maybe i could create a surface that the 2-component silicone will stick to?
I have already made some previously small repair attempts with sil-poxy and it sticks perfectly to the vagina walls, however the problem is like you say it cures too hard. So i'll obviously need some softer layer on top of it. The 2-component silicone seems to be extremely sensitive to contamination and such, if there is just some tiny bit of foreign material there it just wont cure..?

[Thelord001]

I think one problem here that causes this damage is the size of the vaginal entry. With only a few millimeters wide entry, it will tear, inevitably. Silicone just hasnt the same tear resistance as TPE and the entry cant be designed like that. Once it has started to tear, it will only get worse and worse. The manufacturers must stop making it like this:

20240308_155504.jpg (2.92 MiB) Viewed 114 times

And instead, design the love hole with a bigger opening like this:

IMG-20231219-162147.jpg (152.19 KiB) Viewed 114 times

The design on the top picture might look better on photos, but for functionality and durability the entry must be wider like on the bottom picture.

[dparson]

Did you have any luck with your repair?

looking forward to hear the result of your attempt to create a softer mixture by the end of the month

I ended up doing a lot of adhesion and softness tests and documented them here viewtopic.php?p=2526871