New video - TPE repairs, a comprehensive tutorial

[RevJack]

Those syringes should work fine, at 1ml I'd fill several in advance. I'd still stick with 10 or 12 gage needles
The problem I have had with smaller needles is that the pressure inside the syringe can break the syringe(!) or I have to make it thinner.
FYI - TPE Paste melts at a lower temp than solid tpe, so if you are blending techniques, keep that in mind.
Reverend Jack

[Wheezer]

FWIW it's a good idea to get various sizes of the stainless steel blunt needles. Great for paste, oils, primer. etc. The ones in that listing look good. However you should save your money and just get a box of disposable plastic syringes rather than the glass ones.

If you are using the syringe for oil, primer, paste, etc. then the rubber plunger tip will degrade rapidly. Typically from absorbing the oil or solvent used, since they are designed for aqueous solutions. Once it starts to go it will either swell and not move freely or come off the plunger base and refuse to stay on. Either way pretty much useless at that point.

Just a heads up.
Cheers!
... W ...

[homersexual]

@RevJack
That's good to know. I was thinking the area could be warmed before applying paste, and that the paste could be applied in very targeted areas a bit like how dentists give numbing shots by moving the needled around as needed. I actually wondered about some kind of low airflow cooler, or even a blow dryer on air dry, to accelerate initial bonding, but I was wondering if that would interfere with subsurface bonding by causing the surface to run too cool too fast. I this case I think any heat will be just at 110c in very specific areas before application to better ensure bonding. If I could have liquefied enough of the damaged area and then the TPE I was adding more thoroughly Callista would be back in shape, but somehow I botched it.

@Wheezer,
I was wondering about the cheaper disposables but Morghana mentioned that this stuff will eat plastic and I was concerned with lowering any possible residues from the plastics and rubbers in the tube. The needles tend to be smaller as well so for a thicker paste that might be harder to locate (but probably not too hard).

If the plastic ones work fine that's money saved. I unintentionally left a tooth pick on a plastic appliance nearby while trying that method and the plastic surface has slightly melted in a matter of minutes, which was why I thought glass would be safest. Already looking into soldering nozzles for my heat gun. I was also thinking about using a heat resistant material (like foil wrapped cotton)as shields around any areas not being worked on to minimize collateral melting (which I should have done when I repaired her cheek to preserve her eyelash). The thinner nozzles will help for sure.

When I'm set to try again, fail or no fail, I will see if I can set up a recording of the procedure so that others can learn from my successes or failures. I regret that I didn't do that with the solvent just so people could see my noob mistakes and let me know where I went wrong as well as warn others who are considering that method.

[seagull]

Used to think I was pretty well skilled in manufacturing, dolls quickly demonstrated I knew nuthin

[Wheezer]

@Wheezer,
I was wondering about the cheaper disposables but Morghana mentioned that this stuff will eat plastic and I was concerned with lowering any possible residues from the plastics and rubbers in the tube. The needles tend to be smaller as well so for a thicker paste that might be harder to locate (but probably not too hard).

If the plastic ones work fine that's money saved. I unintentionally left a tooth pick on a plastic appliance nearby while trying that method and the plastic surface has slightly melted in a matter of minutes, which was why I thought glass would be safest. Already looking into soldering nozzles for my heat gun. I was also thinking about using a heat resistant material (like foil wrapped cotton)as shields around any areas not being worked on to minimize collateral melting (which I should have done when I repaired her cheek to preserve her eyelash). The thinner nozzles will help for sure.

When I'm set to try again, fail or no fail, I will see if I can set up a recording of the procedure so that others can learn from my successes or failures. I regret that I didn't do that with the solvent just so people could see my noob mistakes and let me know where I went wrong as well as warn others who are considering that method.

Well do whatever you want. All I know is that I have decanted 3M primer for several years using the disposable syringes and to date not one has melted while in use. I have used the same for paste applications with no problems either. The leur lock needles in that listing will fit on ANY similar syringe, that is the most common syringe fitting.

In reality your penis probably received more airborne containments if you ever you took it out and urinated in a public restroom than you would receive from materials leeched from a disposable syringe barrel or rubber plunger then deposited into TPE paste then applied to the artificial vaginal canal of a TPE sex toy. But if glass makes you feel better, then go for it.

Good idea of the cotton and foil combination. You might also want to look into certain heat insulating tapes. Those work well too.

Good luck.
... W ...

[seagull]

Google, heat insulating tapes
More hits than you can poke a stick at

[homersexual]

@seagull
Thanks!

@Wheezer
I think you misunderstand me. I wasn't worried about contaminates on my human horn (who knows what goes into toys and lubricants anymore), I was worried about anything mixing into the TPE and causing any damage. Stuff seems sensitive. That's all. Again, really appreciate the advice.

[Michaelangelo]

Here's the first one
This video describes how to use a SOLDERING WORKSTATION!! - from small splits to very large (3-4" and 3" DEEP) cuts


Enjoy
Mishka

I've been reading this thread with great interest because I've got a small foot repair (little tear/cut) to do (not essential but would be a nice idea) and also I'll need to repair some deliberate damage to Mira over the next month or so because I'm going to give her the MF hand upgrade.

Would this soldering iron approach be recommended for repairing cuts in hands (these are a small, inch and half cut down to the palm plate)? I'll be practising beforehand, no worries, but it does seem like a good one for these little irons you can get on Amazon:

https://amzn.eu/d/9lx4D1r

Or a whole station maybe if I decide I need a more precise hot air gun:

https://amzn.eu/d/0NvUlS2

[Mishka1965]

Hi, I think a soldering station is the best tool, and for fixing small tears and filling in holes etc, is where it works well
The hot air gun is for larger repairs, like cracks and splits, and getting an area warm before working on it.

Mishka

[Technician]

If you post a picture of the damage you'd likely get some useful suggestions on the repair. It's also neat to show before and after.

[Michaelangelo]

If you post a picture of the damage you'd likely get some useful suggestions on the repair. It's also neat to show before and after.

Good point. I'll do that for the foot tear when I get around to it. Might even work with just a heat gun. We'll see what everyone thinks

[homersexual]

This will be my final post in this thread about my repairs. It is not my wish to hijack anything and the help I've gotten here has lead to some deeper diving and really great tips so I think I'm on my way.

In an earlier post I showed damage to Callista's entrance. This damage was actually not due to sexual use because there hasn't been very much, but I suspect it is more of an over-compensating care routine. Too many horror pics of torn TPE had me applying thin but frequent vasoline to that area after every washing (she gets cleaned about 3-4 times a month with soapy water). I think the overdoing her with vasoline made the TPE too soft, so when dressing her, moving her around, or posing her, I wound up creating a tear that just grew faster than expected. Mishka's totally right about addressing all tears asap. I let this go for about a month and it caught up with me.

Before repairing Callista's entrances I wanted to test a method I've considered one of the safest on her feet. The damage there was always there (one of WM's many shortcomings) and it seemed like a good out of the way place to practice, especially since the feet are also more accessible. I followed Wheezer and seagull's tips, as well as a few others I collected around the forum, which lead to threads about paste and other experiments, like the custom nipples, that really helped me understand what I was working with.

I bought a soldering station with a heat gun that has adjustable temp and airflow, disposable syringes (and tips, but those are not needed for the foot job), and primer to make the paste. PLEASE BE SURE TO TAKE ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS! Your health deserves a good 3M face mask and filters. Safety first!

So I have shots of her feet before repairing, after applying paste and drying the paste, after some heat gun healing, and after powdering. It's a bit messy, but an improvement, and was a real confidence boost for when I'm ready to give this another try (this was my first time). I cannot stress how much simpler this is with the soldering station. Adjusting the airflow and heat meant I didn't have to keep monitoring the temperature with my thermometer as it never overheated once I had figured out the correct amount of heat.

So here are some observations:

I made a few kinds of paste for this using her insert and some primer. The best consistency was a bit like custard.

I pre-warmed the areas with a heat gun, applied the paste around the bolts, and dried with a hair dryer at normal heat. This created a kind of scabbing affect.

When I used the heat gun at 245F, low airflow (and small nozzle), it was like a soldering iron except the areas around the foot were less affected than the paste. So the dry/drying paste was very easy to work into place, in most cases taking shape on its own, but in rare cases I added a sliver of TPE or used a butter knife to move things into place.

I kept the oil on, and tamped with 250 grit wet/dry sandpaper as I went.

The paste was full of bubbles, even after drying, but those really helped out as I could gauge when I was at the right amount of heat as they began to surface and clear, causing the TPE to set more precisely.

This is already a wall of text, but if anyone has questions please ask and I'll be happy to clarify. Thanks again to seagull and Wheezer, Mishka, and so many others sharing their experiences and ideas here.

I may start a thread detailing Callista's cavity repair once I begin. Thanks to Seagull's paste suggestion, and the soldering station's flexibility, I feel a lot more confident about working on her. I will go back and work on her feet a little more in the future, but for a first timer I'm pleased at what I was able to accomplish with this method.

[Big Boobs]

I bought a heat gun off Amazon for TPE experimentation. Does this look remotely like a heat gun? Yeah, it says "heat gun" on it, but come on. Perhaps I oughta have picked a color other than pink.

[Kite]

I bought a heat gun off Amazon for TPE experimentation. Does this look remotely like a heat gun? Yeah, it says "heat gun" on it, but come on. Perhaps I oughta have picked a color other than pink.

Easy to find at least. Colorful and says heat gun. Lmao. If it didnt say heat gun id think it was some kind of sex toy. But it being used to fix a sextoy. I guess its a fit.

[Michaelangelo]

If there ever was a heat gun designed for use on dolls, this one is it. Love the "Caution may be hot" warning at the business end!