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Which lens gives the better modelling for portraits?

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doll-o-grapher
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Re: Which lens gives the better modelling for portraits?

Post by doll-o-grapher »

haremlover wrote:Yes - all good tips for breathing and keeping still and elbow stability.

Yes - but with [Links edited].......
as the target, using a tripod is out of the question other than three tripods with a quick release to go from one to another - and then that doesn't allow for slight changes of angle to show slightly different aspects of the face.
Umm, nope - seat with a pivot under the bum will be the easiest solution there. ;)

haremlover wrote:The advantage of manual focus with in my case a Nikon D90 is that there's a green dot in the corner of the screen which comes on when the subject is in focus.
The focus confirmation - a lot of new cameras will do that with new lenses, my older Pentax manual lenses miss out on that, so I use the Focus Peaking option, same as with a video camera.

I'd still look at using a turntable, and spinning the doll on the spot, rather then having to adjust camera or lights, it will be far less work in the long run, and will fit with what you're trying to achieve in consistency, in turn giving better information for everyone.


Looking at the photos in the article you wrote - please tell me the multiple lights in the softbox are LED's and not tungsten,... :lol:

For anyone else reading - LED's use very little power, and don't heat up as bad as Tungsten lights. The multi-mount adapters are designed to replace a single tungsten globe with either multiple Fluro or LED replacements.

There are now some very large 'consumer' grade LED globes available - up to 50watts of output - I use up to four 27watt LED globe in a multi mount to output close to the same what I get out of an 800watt Tungsten "redhead" light,..
There are budget lighting kits with softboxes and umbrella reflectors available, that once the hot tungsten globes are disposed of, can be used with LED's to very good effect.

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