FINALLY!! A Hot Wet Pussy!! (Completely Literal)

[MannyCan]

Holy Christ MC....you ae have gone way beyond even your own previous modifications. Absolutely fantastic mate!

This made me sad though:

I just felt bad that despite being one of the most beautiful sex dolls you can buy, she can never fulfill her true purpose properly.

And it's not just DS...it's 98% of dolls that are perfect for company, utterly rubbish for what they are actually sold for....

Keep us updated please...look forward to hearing more. Now, if you don't mind...I need to go and google Victoria

Mav

MAV!! Thank you so much for your kind words. You know? I hadn't thought about the problem of other sex dolls outside my own troubles. So thank you for that. I'm hoping that this might catch the attention of manufacturers and they'll put more emphasis on this. Everyone is so focused on robotics and AI and such. Someone needs to focus on the basics; things they've not finished getting right. For me, that's starts with good sex mechanics.

That is a great design and smart solution for heating without wires.
When using a USB warmer it does take a while and look unnatural with wires hanging out.
One method to warm some lube in a syringe (or injector made for this purpose) is by submerging it in warm water. It tends to dry out so you'd have to keep applying it as needed. It would be great if your lubrication sacs kept things wet by slowly adding more overtime. Even if it is just enough to keep things going this would be a game changer. I hope you can get this idea to work because it is pretty clever. I'm hoping everything does not squirt in on the first pump - but honestly that would not be so bad - imagine being able to time the release with a more forceful thrust...

The looks of the thing is just great and makes you want to try it out! Everyone wants to get the pussy they dream of. Styling it after a favorite porn star is just great. The pussy of the young lady in the pics you posted is certainly desirable to me.

TheIQF++, great to hear from you!! You know? You and AGL made me consider how to make the whole venus mounds and labia major to be hollow. I don't think that this is as complex as I thought. There are actually several options to do this. I could:

- Just make a larger "lubrication sac" and carefully cut it out to extract it, sealing the incision carefully.
- Use something clever like a gelatin (Jello) sac when casting the pussy. The gelatin sac would melt in heat and easily flush out.
- I could just make a "lubrication sac" out of silicone and use THAT during the pussy casting. Then I would have nothing to extract.

By making a much larger "lubrication sac", this would mean that the pussy could become completely lubricated because it would house enough lubrication fluids. Previously I thought it would be quite challenging .. but now I think its totally doable. This is why getting comments and feedback is so important. It jars the brain to think of different approaches. Thanks so much for your thoughtful feedback. Its really helped me focus on how to improve this.

AND SINCE IT SEEMS LIKE FOLKS ARE WARM TO VICTORIA VALESKI (also called Victoria Corsia)
Here are some more of her "reference pictures"

Hey!! Innovators have to stay inspired y'know!

[kanna]

MannyCan that's quite an impressive insert. Also, since DS has been one of my primary candidates for dipping my feet into silicone world thus far, it's good to know this about their inserts . It's almost like they don't have anyone on their team who actually uses then. If I do decide to pick one of theirs, I better make sure I know how to create my own before I order. How much does it cost to get the necessary supplies for making one of those? 3D printer I already have access to.

It would be great if your lubrication sacs kept things wet by slowly adding more overtime. Even if it is just enough to keep things going this would be a game changer.

You must be using a different lube than I am. 1.5ml of lube is what I've found is the optimal amount of the lube for my use. I haven't felt any need to add any more, even when I've had sessions that last for an hour. I have tried up to 5ml, but the only thing that accomplishes is more mess to clean afterwards.

And it's not just DS...it's 98% of dolls that are perfect for company, utterly rubbish for what they are actually sold for....

I wonder if I just got lucky. With Kanna it was a bit of a learning process to learn how to not make a mess around the insert (iow, don't use too much lube, position her so the insertion angle lines up with the cavity). With Asami's insert, there was almost nothing to learn. Only need to avoid extremely bad angles.

[MannyCan]

Christmas came early this year for you, MannyCan!

Freaking awesome work. I am curious as where you inject the lube in the custom-made insert where it stays before it is "squeezed" out through the ducts? I assume this would only also be recommended to silicone-based dolls and NOT TPE-based ones?

If that custom-made insert design holds up long-term it should be the standard for silicone-based dolls with inserts. Being able to prepare your gal so you can just insert when you feel like it, would make things so much more realistic or at least spontaneous!

Thank you curiousswede - The lubrication sacs is where the lube is held until it is squeezed through the ducts. You just use a dentist syringe to inject it up the ducts. I made sure that there are two ducts as not to create a vacuum. Works well. I don't know anything about TPE vs Silicone for lube unfortunately. I just have a silicone doll. And the nice thing about silicone is that it withstands just about any consumer chemical out there.

[MannyCan]

MannyCan that's quite an impressive insert. Also, since DS has been one of my primary candidates for dipping my feet into silicone world thus far, it's good to know this about their inserts . It's almost like they don't have anyone on their team who actually uses then. If I do decide to pick one of theirs, I better make sure I know how to create my own before I order. How much does it cost to get the necessary supplies for making one of those? 3D printer I already have access to.

Let's see. Knowing that I know now, I could save some money avoiding unnecessary costs. If you checked out my other post: viewtopic.php?f=183&t=116050 ,that is all still correct. You need alginate and plaster to cast the cavity. Once you have that, the rest is much easier since you don't risk your doll ever again. Remember, I did all this never having pulled out my doll again knowing that it should fit perfectly. It a huge load off my mind realizing that I'm not endangering her for my mad, crazy ideas.

The next step is I then casted the "internals" of the insert (meaning the part that will occupy the doll cavity) .. darn .. easier to show you.

Here:

Layers.JPG (274.35 KiB) Viewed 3010 times

As you can see, the white part is the "based structure" I did this so that I wouldn't have to bother with making it over and over as I perfect the top part, which is the clay sculpture. I also limits any damage to the piece as you work on it.

So lets see .. that's:

HARD SHELL (PLASTER CASTING OF THE DOLL CAVITY)
Alginate, which is perfectly safe to use on your doll (the only thing I'd let touch it)
Plaster to make the hard shell (so you never have to touch your doll in this process)
I glazed the hard shell with XTC-3D This makes the hard shell very durable and slick. If you 3D print, you should know about this stuff. Its great.


Making in "INTERNAL INSERT" from the hard plaster shell I used
Equinox Silicone - That stuff is awesome. I spread it onto the inside SIDES of the hard shell (effectively using the shell as a mold). See, you can't just fill up the hard shell with poured silicone else it will never come out. That almost happened to me. Just smear the Equinox onto the sides of the cavity (in your hard shell). It will stick and cure right in place. Its kind of a thick thick putty.

Here I also "prepped the edges" .. how do I explain this. The parts that need to be seen "on the outside" and matches the angles and contours of the doll cavity, I used Equinox create a rough of that. The rest I did with clay in the next step.

Once cured, I then removed the Equinox casting and RE-Created a silicone mold using it. The silicone mold is flexible and useful actual casting (has give unlike a hard shell). For that I used Mold Star, another awesome product.

Once I had the silicone mold I casted the is using Smooth Cast Plastic Casting to build the white base you see in the pictures.

Making the FINAL PRODUCT you'll need clay to make your sculpt.
I used Scupltex clay .. it was good. I was very unfamiliar with clay and this stuff was quite forgiving. There might be better on the market. But I wouldn't know. One thing to mention is that your clay has to be sulfur free. Otherwise you can't use it with silicone. The silicone will never cure around it. Even the slightest amount of sulfur will ruin the molding process.

Obviously with clay you need some clay tools. I bought a bundle off Amazon for like $20 .. had like 50 tools. I think I used 4
If you want to texture your sculpt you'll need a skin Texture Stamp .. honestly you could just find some fine leather piece at home. But I got a little fancy.

Once I was done with the mold (and 3D design and all) it was time to finally make a mold of the final sculpt. Again I used Mold Star. For the final casting I used Ecoflex 00-20. Its very soft .. buttery soft. Matches the feel of my DS163 perfectly I believe. Its very durable, skin safe, and withstands temperatures over 300 degree F. Really whats not to love. I've also tried DragonSkin .. since everyone raves about it. That stuff is good too. Its just not as soft.

Finally you'll want to color the silicone to match your doll .. for that I use Silc Pig. Works .. just make sure you read the instructions. A little (I'm talking what would fit on the end of a toothpick) goes a LONG way.

That's the route I took. I know its a long post .. but I hope its gives you an idea of the material and costs. Eyeballing it, a project like this could be done in under .. hmm .. $275 .. I did some trial and error so it costed me more. But I got an education out of it. If I was ambitious enough, I could probably make a whole doll from scratch now. And one of the joys of tinkering is that its a hobby .. and hobbies cost money.

One side note - I created the Hard Shell (from my other post) because I wasn't sure I was going to create a whole insert (or just a facade). I could have EASILY created an adapter for say an insert from Abyss or 4Wood. The would have been super easy. I was tempted to make an adapter for the Abyss SenseX insert - but I just didn't want to spend a lot of money on something I didn't know would feel good. For that, the hard shell is perfect. If you wanted to skip it and save a little money, you COULD create a "Soft Shell" using Mold Star (and skip using plaster on the alignate). I'm not 100% sure I'd recommend it. But its an option to consider if you know you're going straight for a full insert. If I did it all over, I think I'd still opt to make the hard shell. It was just too useful as you muddle through some trial and errors.

You must be using a different lube than I am. 1.5ml of lube is what I've found is the optimal amount of the lube for my use. I haven't felt any need to add any more, even when I've had sessions that last for an hour. I have tried up to 5ml, but the only thing that accomplishes is more mess to clean afterwards.

Now a question for YOU .. what sort of lube do you use? I'm considering enlarging the "lubrication sac". So I'm interested in knowing what can do a lot with less. Thanks for any info.

[linux_tyro]

You are amazing. I'd think about getting a patent on your design and processes very quickly. Dont waste any time doing it as you should protect your invention and right to income from your creation.

[MannyCan]

Actually .. by posting it in a public place, this is called a form of an "invention disclosure" - I can easily show that I was the first to have this novel idea, and have a year to patent that idea. I already have several patents. I don't need this one.

I actually hope that manufacturers would pick up this concept and make it available to consumers. Bringing innovations my way of benefiting our little community. So feel free to copy the idea, so long as no one tries to suppress other people from using it (don't try to patent it exclusively themselves). Anyways, if they do, the patent office would see this public post of the idea as an earlier invention disclosure and void the patent application.

That's one of the reasons I love TDF - its like-minded people helping each other in a very narrow-minded world.

[silicon]

Spock said, ( It's a pussy Jim,but not as we know it..

[Kite]

This is amazing. It takes my fleshlight insert for izzy and makes it a super insert. Kudos man.

[rubherkitty]

Fantastic design and thanks for sharing.

A suggestion was brought up about selling these. Unfortunately the yearly cost for a inventor to sell 1 or 2 design items on TDF is the same as a large company that sells 500+ dolls. And it AIN"T cheap!
I know that some inventors here sell their doll accessories through a TDF authorized vendor. I mention this as a crazy idea came into my head. What if we inventors created a company like "Doll Inventors Inc"? This could be set up by one person who would receive management compensation, but would be comprised of many inventors to market their items under the company name. I'll start a new thread on this idea.

My DIY insert experience.
All inserts went into a plastic doll / plastic can holder so there was no exterior silicone for the insert to expand.
They did have expansion ribs like a fleshlight though.

1. Anal insert. Ecoflex 00-30. 2-1/2" OD x 3/4" entry hole. Bottom end was open for venting as I had a tube vent in this mannequin. = Way too tight unless you're sporting an iron bar.

2. Pussy insert. Ecoflex 00-10. 2-1/2" OD x 1" entry hole. Closed ended. = Too loose. Ended up wrapping the exterior w/ elastic banding as close to the entry as possible for better gripping.

3. Pussy insert. Ecoflex 00-10 w/ Slacker-softener. 2-1/2" OD. 1/2" wide x 5/8" tall entry hole. Closed ended. = Worked much better. Very soft, but still tight enough to grip. Entry did develop a tear at the top as it came to a sharp point. I did have that concern when designing it and am planning on a design change to round it out. I'll also make the entry grip area run a little deeper for more strength and grip.

I'm almost 60 so have that problem of keeping it up after an initial excitement build so I need a pussy w/ some grip at the entry. Have thought about trying to incorporate a firmer silicone "muscle" ring just inside the entry.
Was thinking about having it molded in, but maybe just have a groove in the insert where a ring can be pressed in!

Even using 00-10 silicone w/ slacker, the labia minor are still not as soft as I would like them to be. The great thing about silicone is you can layer a cast item w/ different shore grades or blends as your pour. That's if you can figure out a method!
On my inserts the entry/ face is filled first and the end that goes into doll last. On insert 3, I poured the first 3" of silicone w/a lot of slacker. The next 3" of pour had less slacker, then the final pour had no slacker. I wanted the inner closed end firmer to make inserting into the doll's can easier. These pussy inserts are 9-1/2" OAL w/ 8-1/2" of fun sleeve. I don't require that much , but I designed the doll to that proportion because I could and it just worked that way. I feel the extra room also reduces are compression. If a person had a variety of silicone, they could use 00-10 w/ slacker at the entry and something very firm at the tail end for using a tool to push in the insert.

On the self lube design. I have thought about how to mold reservoir cavaties into silicone and still get the mold piece out and have considered a cork screw design. You could have a 1/8" lube hole and a 1/4 or 5/16" coiled tube form that wrapped around the entry hole.

[kanna]

Thank you for the detailed description of what you've done! Much appreciated.

You must be using a different lube than I am. 1.5ml of lube is what I've found is the optimal amount of the lube for my use. I haven't felt any need to add any more, even when I've had sessions that last for an hour. I have tried up to 5ml, but the only thing that accomplishes is more mess to clean afterwards.

Now a question for YOU .. what sort of lube do you use? I'm considering enlarging the "lubrication sac". So I'm interested in knowing what can do a lot with less. Thanks for any info.

This is going to take the form of a photo and two links. I've got two lubes I can recommend like this.
They're both specifically made for onahole use and are pretty cheap too. The shop I'm linking to is the cheapest I've found thus far.
no complaints about their service either. Anyway, here's the photo of the bottles:

IMG_20191127_222958.jpg (3.19 MiB) Viewed 2977 times

And here's the links, I suspect they might be a bit difficult to locate just based on the photo:
https://www.otonajp.com/pure-arai-fuyo-lotion-1000ml
https://www.otonajp.com/onatsuyu-lotion

One of those isn't the exact same product that I've got here but I'm pretty sure it's the same stuff, just a bigger bottle. Both of these will last
for an hour in my doll with just 2ml of the lube (I'm using a syringe to apply it before fun, so I've been paying attention to how much I use).

The one on the right in the photo is thicker and doesn't move around on it's own much, so it makes for less of a mess even if you use too much of it.
It's also advertised as unnecessary to wash off, which I'm unlikely to try, but probably means it won't be a problem for your skin even if you just leave it
overnight or something.

EDIT: It seems I'd accidentally written left instead of right in the description, which made it refer to the wrong bottle . I fixed that with this edit.

[TheIQF++]

Was thinking about having it molded in, but maybe just have a groove in the insert where a ring can be pressed in!

Excellent idea. I'm sure I've seen a toy that had a ring to simulate a tight anal entry. Some people said it was too tight. Having it be removable is a good idea.
An anal insert would be nice yet a lot of dolls don't have much space to work with.

...But I got an education out of it. If I was ambitious enough, I could probably make a whole doll from scratch now....

That sounds like a great idea... Imagine making a copy of your favorite doll and making a few enhancements here and there (like using a texture stamp). Have you thought about making a head with saliva sacs? lol. I'm sure you could figure it out.

Thanks for sharing this great design and keep working on it.

[rubherkitty]

Was thinking about having it molded in, but maybe just have a groove in the insert where a ring can be pressed in!

Excellent idea. I'm sure I've seen a toy that had a ring to simulate a tight anal entry. Some people said it was too tight. Having it be removable is a good idea.
An anal insert would be nice yet a lot of dolls don't have much space to work with.

Thanks
Having a removable ring would also let a person experiment with different sizes and resistance. I'm still in the experimental stage on making the perfect pussy, before I even consider making dolls. And perfect for me might not be right for 70% of the doll world? A silicone insert can also start out tight and have a material compression break in period.

The anal insert I made was for a anal only mannequin so there was not any fight for space on that project. I need to make another based on what I've learned so far.

[MannyCan]

Hey Everyone!! Happy Thanksgiving

As promised, I finally got my doll out for an hour and did a fitting. As expected (because I worked of the hard shell casting), the fit is quite nice. I'm pleased with it overall. The coloring flanges I made worked out well. They are a bit fragile, but should hold up if I'm not too rough with them during handing. During playtime, we'll have to see. I didn't have a proper play-test. But I did simulate some thrusting (and made a video).

So first is the insert with the legs open from the front:

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This looks very good even in harsh lighting. I hoped it would since the mold is actually in this position.

Upon close-up, you can see the flange is working.

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There is some imperfections on the edges of the flange. That's because I wasn't that careful in the de-molding process. I can do better. But for s first draft I'm happy with it. I've gotten used to seeing seams on a doll. So this is no different. Just another seam.

The next photo is the legs closed from the front.

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It forms a great camel toe - something I find very attractive, especially in sexy underwear. DS owners know you don't get a camel toe with DS dolls. Finally my DS163+ has one and I'm happy about that.

When looking at the front legs closed in close-up view:

Post Front Closed CloseUp.JPG (840.41 KiB) Viewed 2963 times

You can again see that I had some imperfections in the manufacturing. I've researched how to fix this. There are two ways. One is expensive. And the other is cheap. I'm going to try the cheap way first.

The backside is one of my favorites.

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The contouring came out better than I'd hope. But this is where I think DS failed in the positioning of the anal canal (which isn't usable anyways). The vaginal canal really can't be made any closer to the anal canal. I think that the anal canal is about a half in too far up her backside.

Its a little less apparent in the backside close-up:

Post Rear Open CloseUp.JPG (950.07 KiB) Viewed 2963 times

I kind of like the fourchette poking out a little. Reminds me of a tiny clitoris. Not sure why that's sexy to me. But another unexpected bonus.

Overall I believe I achieved what I set out to achieve. Looking down at my doll to envision a beautiful young lass is a LOT easier now that she doesn't look like an amalgam of used and left-over parts.

Post Before-After.JPG (564.95 KiB) Viewed 2963 times

Remember - all this is with pretty harsh lighting using a flash. I took some video (which I'll post if people want) in lower lighting to simulate closer the conditions of my playtime.

Please post a comment. I think of this as a community project. So its appreciated.

[rubherkitty]

That looks great!
Fits very well too and nice color match. The labia major are very plump which I like as well.

Someday I'm going to purchase some pink silicone tint for painting the labia minor on my inserts and can send you a little packet of tint if it works out and you want some? Good for painting nipples too.

[Tsall]

Very impressive work. Nearly perfect matching color and it fits very well.