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seagull wrote:Studio has just given the term "Head Job" a whole new meaning
LOL!
PDutus wrote:I might now try some more ambitious photoshoots, but I would still be reluctant to leave them in direct contact for longer than it took to take the photos.
Exactly - even with a million successful tests, everyone still needs to test their own combinations, especially because the manufacturers change things without announcement. But it might be successful and open up more possibilities.
I have lots of experience working with industrial grades of two-part platinum silicone and also begun experimenting with TPE a year or two ago. When either of these two materials are in their liquid states, they will not cure against the other. Platinum silicone will not cure against TPE, some tin silicones will cure against TPE but I think that some will not (I may be wrong here). TPE heated to a liquid will not cure against platinum silicone; if you pour the molten TPE into a platinum silicone mold, the TPE will cool and set but the 1 - 2mm or TPE that's right against the silicone will stay liquid forever.
Platinum silicone is used in many different kinds of seals and gaskets, I have difficulty believing that it isn't 100% compatible mineral oil, vaseline, etc...
The real issue is pressure, and how much is pushed against each other. And how oily the tpe doll is, does it absorb constarch quick or not. And if doll still has its little protective smooth layer. And how oily the silicone girl is. My zone dolls have gotten softer over the years, they can be oily as well. I left her leg touching my 6ye tpe too closely with pressure, didn't notice, imprinted into her leg, like it was melting away or something, i forget, but I caught it just in time. Did return to normal, it was mostly the tpe rubber which was dehydrating the silicone of its oils.
Its why hard silicone heads have less silicone oil, so it can interact safely with tpe.
Dry copy dolls, say the Higher "rubbery" ones would probably pose less issues but they are more likely to tear at their usual spots, since that elasticity tends to go without oil. While not all copy dolls rely on the same tpe, they can vary from which I find interesting, have several, they already have some years in, fine, its only the rubbery type ones are likely to tear.
Dry tpe and dry silicone, should have less reactions. Just as silicone girls can have reaction with other plastic/rubber/vinyl/stryofoam products with oil in them. I forget what tpe one had the bad reactions.. dont remember.
smallcat wrote:Dry tpe and dry silicone, should have less reactions. Just as silicone girls can have reaction with other plastic/rubber/vinyl/stryofoam products with oil in them. I forget what tpe one had the bad reactions.. dont remember.
I'm wondering if the reactions being observed are caused by the oils in the silicone toy/doll. These oils may be organic so could affect TPE.....I still don't believe that "dry" silicone itself would react with TPE.
smallcat wrote:Dry tpe and dry silicone, should have less reactions. Just as silicone girls can have reaction with other plastic/rubber/vinyl/stryofoam products with oil in them. I forget what tpe one had the bad reactions.. dont remember.
I'm wondering if the reactions being observed are caused by the oils in the silicone toy/doll. These oils may be organic so could affect TPE.....I still don't believe that "dry" silicone itself would react with TPE.
I mean just the hard silicone which is the dry one. Since theres not much oil to make the head soft. Its why it barely has any reaction, plus its usually flush around the head connector as well. I can place my hard silicone heads fine on any tpe body, just my oily silicone heads, will produce a reaction.
I think it just requires a good amount of oil on each.. That stryrofoam crap will dehydrate your doll for example.
I remember some tdf user doll was like shrinked or damaged by leaving it on those stryrofoam sheets. SO thats a "petro" product.
FWIW my old WM158 had a bad reaction with my Doll Sweet. (I pressed the spare dollsweet insert onto the body of the WM TPE and it [probably the TPE I imagine] instantly started to "sweat" something).
Curiously enough, I had repaired that WM doll using GE Silicone II before and it both held the TPE together and didn't have any weird interactions.
I mean just the hard silicone which is the dry one. Since theres not much oil to make the head soft. Its why it barely has any reaction, plus its usually flush around the head connector as well. I can place my hard silicone heads fine on any tpe body, just my oily silicone heads, will produce a reaction.
I'm glad this thread exists as I've got a new TPE doll arriving sometime today and a spare silicone head that I would love to pair up. Sure enough after consulting the forum the information is clear that although a risk there's a good chance everything will be fine when attaching the hard silicone head to the TPE body. Both are recent builds, the head is only a month old and the body I presume maybe 6 months maybe up to a year, could be older though as it originated from a in stock UK shop.
Caution will be key and any results good or bad will be fed back into the forum!
i as i know many others are grateful for this post of real testing with different materials , i too think that most mainstream doll companies have greatly improved their doll material and mixture formula's . as was said on here some will still vary , especially with knock offs etc. so the word is always to use caution and not just throw something together but rather to test it carefully , which may save a doll owner from damaging his prize toy . Again thanks for posting this info. i know it will help many.
