Allow me to (re)introduce myself and Troy

[DG]

Muesky, I sent you a PM regarding the fabric dummy from Amazon.

[sactojoe]

I am absolutely jealous of your 3D printer.. It is on the list of things I learn how to use and get. The university I graduated from has 3D printers they let students and alumni use, and so does the library in town. I just can't be printing out penises.. LOL!

So I have a suggestion about the mold you printer that will help you with stabilizing it.. Plaster wrap!! I didn't come up with this idea. Smooth-on's website has a lot of short tutorial videos and one of them is how to do life casting. I bought like twelve 3" rolls that are 5yds long for like $32, and I totally do not need as much as I got. Who knows maybe I will make a cast of one of my dolls and start molding my own dolls. Anyway plaster wrap will give the mold support..

The penises you are molding are awesome! That is exactly the style I would chose as well.

Not sure if you are aware that I take in damaged and unwanted dolls. I have three coming in this week, and a couple of more I need to set up shipping for.. Early this week I deboned a 170cm doll and a few weeks ago I deboned a 148cm doll. Monday, spoke with a welding shop and they are going to weld parts of the two skeletons $225. Fortunately the whole lower part of the 170cm fits perfectly with the body suit. The suck part it doesn't have shrugging shoulders and I want that, so that is coming from the 148cm doll. Of course the shoulders have to be widened so I will use tubing from the 170cm doll.. It is piecing them together. If you want I can send you pictures of the skeletons I have, so you can get an idea on how they work. The design is basic and could be so much more improved.. And all doll skeletons are basically the same.

My plan for the foam skeleton is I bought the foam noodles just to bulk up the skeleton without adding much weight. Then I am also purchased seat cushion foam to add the additional bulk to the frame and make the doll look even more muscular. I didn't buy the more muscular 2 piece set I went with the onesie (hehehe!), but all the foam and skeleton is going to be put into a spandex suit, so I can make sure I have the muscles in the right place, etc. then I will powder the hell out of it and slide it into the silicone suit. Having the skeleton to give resistance will hopefully make it easier to get everything into the suit..

So I am getting several kits of the liquid silicone to see which one is going to work best for molding the hands and feet.. I was looking at iron oxide to help get to the solid black color (the vendor I spoke with said that it is hard to get true black) but I totally did not think about activated charcoal.. Have you used this for dying silicone? The concern about the iron oxide is that it might effect the silicone setting up..

I am just so dang excited about this project and really need the boost of serotonin from having created my own doll, that won't kill me to move him around.

Printers that can do a good job and are easy to use are getting cheap! If you were looking to jump in, now is not a bad time. This printer has a mix of cost cutting combined with premium features. The costs that were cut do not affect the usability so I think it's a good trade off. The hardest part of a print is getting the first layer to stick to the bed. This printer has auto bed levelling and includes a flexible print surface that covers the bed to make it easy to print and remove parts when done. This printer has more plastic parts, but they are engineered well so it is still very capable. This company just launched a mid size printer that is between the standard and the MAX. The small one can print 8"x8"x10" which is just barely big enough to print a full size doll head.

Plaster wraps work well depending on the use. I made a few molds a while back that had a plaster wrap mother mold that would keep a flexible polyurethane mold in place during casting. It worked pretty great, but I haven't gotten to that part of the process yet. I'm testing out a few ways to make molds and I will probably use different methods depending on what I'm doing. I like the printed molds that I made, but they do have their drawbacks too. It's just so damned cool to model something and print out the mold then make a final silicone copy all in one day! I have a few master models that are ready to be molded, so I better get on it!

I knew you did modifications but I had no idea you provided a home for wayward dolls! I can DM you for pics of the skeleton or if you have a couple you can post them here too. Any ideas for improvements would great since you have so much familiarity with them. Thanks for the offer, more info is better!

The ideas you have for your skeletons are really cool. It sounds like it will work perfectly to get your new doll just that way you want him.

I haven't tried out charcoal with silicone, but it's worth a shot. The things that do not work with Platinum Silicone are kinda random. It's usually because they contain sulphur.

I'm excited about making my new doll too! It is blowing my mind that this might actually be possible for me to do at home and come up with a decent result! I was really surprised yesterday when I demolded the dildo and it felt so satisfying to get it exactly the way I wanted it!

[aaa1235]

Hi Guys! I am finally finished catching up on all of the details of this turned-out-to-be "DIY Projects" thread haha. And Wow! You guys sure have a lot of awesome ideas, good luck to all of you. Eventhough I prefer a doll like Gabriel, but it just shows that if you guys finally succeeded in making a big muscly doll, then it will be easier and totally doable to make smaller dolls too

Didn't really expect that now 3D Printer can print things that smoothly, technology is nice haha. It is very exciting to hear about all the details from the project you're on, Sactojoe. Printing the mold straight from the 3D Printers seems like the ideal goal for the 1st step. Seeing what you can do from a few weeks of tweaking and experimenting on your new machine, I think that's really can be done. I don't think the filament walls alone will be enough to make it structurally stable 1/1 scale mold though, since it needs a skeleton and all. But let's figure it all out as the time goes by

It will be a long journey and I suppose it can turn out to be a really big and tiring project. So, don't forget to have fun in making the doll haha After all you're all giving us insights which are really helpful as the technology also develops (Thank you for that!).

I may not reply frequently since I don't really have something to add like ideas or tips or anything, but I'm definitely checking this thread when I'm online haha. Once again, good luck to all of you who are (or about to) making their own dolls.

OOT but here's a nice review of Irontech Male Doll that I stumbled upon recently: https://youtu.be/YHV5YGYdGtw - I guess you guys will enjoy it too haha. Cheers!

[sactojoe]

Hi Guys! I am finally finished catching up on all of the details of this turned-out-to-be "DIY Projects" thread haha. And Wow! You guys sure have a lot of awesome ideas, good luck to all of you. Eventhough I prefer a doll like Gabriel, but it just shows that if you guys finally succeeded in making a big muscly doll, then it will be easier and totally doable to make smaller dolls too

Didn't really expect that now 3D Printer can print things that smoothly, technology is nice haha. It is very exciting to hear about all the details from the project you're on, Sactojoe. Printing the mold straight from the 3D Printers seems like the ideal goal for the 1st step. Seeing what you can do from a few weeks of tweaking and experimenting on your new machine, I think that's really can be done. I don't think the filament walls alone will be enough to make it structurally stable 1/1 scale mold though, since it needs a skeleton and all. But let's figure it all out as the time goes by

It will be a long journey and I suppose it can turn out to be a really big and tiring project. So, don't forget to have fun in making the doll haha After all you're all giving us insights which are really helpful as the technology also develops (Thank you for that!).

I may not reply frequently since I don't really have something to add like ideas or tips or anything, but I'm definitely checking this thread when I'm online haha. Once again, good luck to all of you who are (or about to) making their own dolls.

OOT but here's a nice review of Irontech Male Doll that I stumbled upon recently: https://youtu.be/YHV5YGYdGtw - I guess you guys will enjoy it too haha. Cheers!

Hi AAA!

It's true, if tinkerers can figure out how to make a bigger doll that is light enough to move, then that's a win for all male dolls! If what we are doing can inspire other tinkerers to try things out, even better. If I share something that works for me and it helps someone else I'm very gratified.

Printing a mold is kind of a holy grail. I heard that Disney was doing it years ago when they were working on rubber faces for their animatronics. It lets you go from idea to physical object amazingly quickly! From playing around with them I've realized it might work best for smaller items instead of the whole doll. You're right, the printed molds are pretty thin and not very strong over big areas. I thought about pouring a layer of resin on the back of the printed mold, but that has it's own problems. I'll just have to come to terms with the long arduous process of mold creation for big castings.

There are a lot of really good videos online about mold making but I came across this one that is a good mix of cutting corners and combining materials for the needed strength. I'm doing all this in my guest bedroom so I like that all the materials are less toxic than the standard ones. It's still a lengthy process though:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROtE_i3 ... WL&index=3

Thanks for posting the vid! That one is really good to see how these dolls look in real life when you interact with them. Those two models are some of my favorites. Their faces are just so cute and expressive! The dolls I am working on will probably look a bit more mature, but I aim to get the spark of life in their faces that these have.

Jump back in as much as you can. The feedback is great for me to keep up my enthusiasm on this long project!

[sactojoe]

Hey AAA,

Here is another model I've been working on that might be more your taste. I have so many!

Sam`.gif (1.48 MiB) Viewed 452 times

I really need to lock all the details down. These guys are begging to be brought to life!

[muesky6969]

Hey AAA,

Here is another model I've been working on that might be more your taste. I have so many!

Sam`.gif

I really need to lock all the details down. These guys are begging to be brought to life!

Ohhhh Myyy!! Calm my beating heart.. There just isn't much about this guy I would change, even the being uncut..

Okay, so I will cross post this here and on my thread, but I figured out how we can mold our own light weight dolls, at least the bodies. SactoJoe, it might be on you to figure out the heads with the 3D printer.

I had a dream... The doll I am building is going to be about 6' 2-3" tall.. Once I get him built I am going to live cast his entire body, front and back. Then set up a sand box or something that the mold will lay into to keep it shape and support it while it is setting up. Spray on mold release on the mold then just paint in layers of silicone till it is about 1 1/2 - 2". Need to order a vaginal insert, install it with the skeleton, probably on the back of the body. After the hands, feet and everything has been lined up, I will pour in expanding flexible foam. After it sets up, trim off the excess then match up the front and back of the doll and seal it up with silicone epoxy with a mesh to support the seams.. I haven't quite figured out the penis yet..

Here is the thing my friends. Any body type you want, any height, color whatever.. Weight about 50lbs... Cost I am not sure of yet, because I don't know how much silicone would be needed. I will call Smooth-On next week and they may know how much it would take of the silicone and expanding flexible foam. WM will make custom skeletons any height you want for $650 through the vendor but I am going to contact WM direct and see if I can get a better deal. I estimate the cost of silicone and foam to be around $1k, unless we can find a cheaper suppler.. Then the mold making kit would be about $200..
Outside total cost around $1900, which is a lot.. So we need to start researching sources for material.. The thing is the molds would be easy to store and could be reused over and over again..

Maybe get an archive of body types.. If someone has a doll they really like they can remake their doll's body.. I don't know how to do this with TPE.. But heads could be cast, as well.. I don't think there can be much said about using the body of a doll you purchased to make a mold out of it.. Not sure how detailed the molds will be but the life casting silicone seems to pick up very fine detail..

Anyway, I wanted to share my dream with all of you..

[Sam40]

Hey AAA,

Here is another model I've been working on that might be more your taste. I have so many!

Sam`.gif

I really need to lock all the details down. These guys are begging to be brought to life!

Cute guy...u have a great taste for designing cocks...I like thick uncut ones...and would like to have a thick 3d model magnified in size...and also in silicone printed with the softness of a real cock, maybe u could help me with that? For Jake

[sactojoe]

Hey AAA,

Here is another model I've been working on that might be more your taste. I have so many!

Sam`.gif

I really need to lock all the details down. These guys are begging to be brought to life!

Cute guy...u have a great taste for designing cocks...I like thick uncut ones...and would like to have a thick 3d model magnified in size...and also in silicone printed with the softness of a real cock, maybe u could help me with that? For Jake

I would be honored to make one for Jake! If you have a reference photo and the wanted dimensions I'll be happy to take a look!

[sactojoe]

Ohhhh Myyy!! Calm my beating heart.. There just isn't much about this guy I would change, even the being uncut..

Okay, so I will cross post this here and on my thread, but I figured out how we can mold our own light weight dolls, at least the bodies. SactoJoe, it might be on you to figure out the heads with the 3D printer.

I had a dream... The doll I am building is going to be about 6' 2-3" tall.. Once I get him built I am going to live cast his entire body, front and back. Then set up a sand box or something that the mold will lay into to keep it shape and support it while it is setting up. Spray on mold release on the mold then just paint in layers of silicone till it is about 1 1/2 - 2". Need to order a vaginal insert, install it with the skeleton, probably on the back of the body. After the hands, feet and everything has been lined up, I will pour in expanding flexible foam. After it sets up, trim off the excess then match up the front and back of the doll and seal it up with silicone epoxy with a mesh to support the seams.. I haven't quite figured out the penis yet..

Here is the thing my friends. Any body type you want, any height, color whatever.. Weight about 50lbs... Cost I am not sure of yet, because I don't know how much silicone would be needed. I will call Smooth-On next week and they may know how much it would take of the silicone and expanding flexible foam. WM will make custom skeletons any height you want for $650 through the vendor but I am going to contact WM direct and see if I can get a better deal. I estimate the cost of silicone and foam to be around $1k, unless we can find a cheaper suppler.. Then the mold making kit would be about $200..
Outside total cost around $1900, which is a lot.. So we need to start researching sources for material.. The thing is the molds would be easy to store and could be reused over and over again..

Maybe get an archive of body types.. If someone has a doll they really like they can remake their doll's body.. I don't know how to do this with TPE.. But heads could be cast, as well.. I don't think there can be much said about using the body of a doll you purchased to make a mold out of it.. Not sure how detailed the molds will be but the life casting silicone seems to pick up very fine detail..

Anyway, I wanted to share my dream with all of you..

I'm glad you like him. Every bit of him!

Big muscle daddies always get me going but I like wiry guys around 30 y.o. too! Oh, and short guys. And man-buns. and, and, and...

You have quite the project planned! I am so excited for you! There are a lot of moving parts to cast a life sized figure in silicone. I would recommend getting as many samples as you can and try them out in a way that is as close as possible to the final product. Soma Foama is a great product to use for a lighter doll because it can bond to the outer skin of the doll. It is tricky to use though. The molds have to be fairly strong so they will create back pressure against the foam as it expands. Also, I remember that it starts foaming immediately so smaller batches are good to make sure that everything is completely mixed before pouring.

For the molds themselves, doll manufacturers invest in making them out of fiberglass (or maybe metal for TPU). They are bulletproof and will make many castings, but it is a long process and the materials can be pretty toxic. You can cast silicone into a silicone mold, but it can stick to itself and a mold release is recommended. The mold release residue can stay on the silicone and make it harder for the silicone part to bond with outer layers of silicone paint.

Another choice might be polyurethane. It doesn't bond to silicone, so no mold release is required and it's also about half the price! Since you are making a mold of a silicone original and casting the final print in silicone you might not need a mold release at all!

For the flexible mold made of silicone or polyurethane a stiff outer mold is recommended. Here is a video that goes over the process of making a polyurethane mold with a polyurethane mother mold:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROtE_i3 ... dex=3&t=2s

I haven't worked out all the details about how I am going to cast my doll. I don't even know where I would do it!

Currently I have my doll workshop set up in the guest bedroom, but now that I've added the 3D printers next to my computer they are taking over my bedroom too! If I get far along with this project I'll probably move my bed to the guest bedroom and give the whole top floor to the dolls!

Here is what I have been working on this weekend. All three printers humming along! I printed out a full sized head from the ginger model above to test out some new filament and how is smooths out. It is actually a good scale to match the full Smitizen suit I have. Maybe I'll cast him in silicone when I get back to that project. I'm printing out some feet for Troy too.

IMG20220611213655.jpg (2.17 MiB) Viewed 392 times

IMG20220612143827.jpg (2.27 MiB) Viewed 392 times

[muesky6969]

I'm glad you like him. Every bit of him!

Big muscle daddies always get me going but I like wiry guys around 30 y.o. too! Oh, and short guys. And man-buns. and, and, and...

You have quite the project planned! I am so excited for you! There are a lot of moving parts to cast a life sized figure in silicone. I would recommend getting as many samples as you can and try them out in a way that is as close as possible to the final product. Soma Foama is a great product to use for a lighter doll because it can bond to the outer skin of the doll. It is tricky to use though. The molds have to be fairly strong so they will create back pressure against the foam as it expands. Also, I remember that it starts foaming immediately so smaller batches are good to make sure that everything is completely mixed before pouring.

For the molds themselves, doll manufacturers invest in making them out of fiberglass (or maybe metal for TPU). They are bulletproof and will make many castings, but it is a long process and the materials can be pretty toxic. You can cast silicone into a silicone mold, but it can stick to itself and a mold release is recommended. The mold release residue can stay on the silicone and make it harder for the silicone part to bond with outer layers of silicone paint.

Another choice might be polyurethane. It doesn't bond to silicone, so no mold release is required and it's also about half the price! Since you are making a mold of a silicone original and casting the final print in silicone you might not need a mold release at all!

For the flexible mold made of silicone or polyurethane a stiff outer mold is recommended. Here is a video that goes over the process of making a polyurethane mold with a polyurethane mother mold:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROtE_i3 ... dex=3&t=2s

I haven't worked out all the details about how I am going to cast my doll. I don't even know where I would do it!

Currently I have my doll workshop set up in the guest bedroom, but now that I've added the 3D printers next to my computer they are taking over my bedroom too! If I get far along with this project I'll probably move my bed to the guest bedroom and give the whole top floor to the dolls!

Here is what I have been working on this weekend. All three printers humming along! I printed out a full sized head from the ginger model above to test out some new filament and how is smooths out. It is actually a good scale to match the full Smitizen suit I have. Maybe I'll cast him in silicone when I get back to that project. I'm printing out some feet for Troy too.

IMG20220611213655.jpg

IMG20220612143827.jpg

SactoJoe we have similar taste in men.. I prefer big muscle bears myself, but yeah some handsome 30 year olds like the guy in the picture, is very nice, as well.

Thank you for suggesting the polyurethane!! Cheap and easy, is always a good sell point for me.. LOL!! I really am going to go low tech for making a doll body from scratch.. Since I want to have options for making different type bodies and not having to recreate things over and over again. I am going to make a sand pit or maybe soft memory foam mattress in an inflatable kiddy pool that the body mold will rest in during casting. This way everything can be packed up and stored away until the next time. So I am going to mold front and back separately then connect them once the expanding foam is trimmed down..

Here is the thing.. I want to redesign these skeletons.. Ball and sockets joints for the hips, wrists, ankles and neck where it meets the head.. Hinged joints for the elbows and knees. Still not firing on all cylinders right now, so haven't got the diagrams drawn out.. I am going to contact my brother and see if he would be willing to weld up skeletons for me (he can weld anything), just need to find a wholesale supplier of stainless steel tubing..

Your being able to 3D print heads and body parts is a game changer.. We just need someone to make the skulls and we are in the doll making business.. Speaking of body parts... Ahhh can you print out molds for orifices?

6' muscular bear doll with any face you want that only weighs 50lbs.. We are so close to being able to do this..

[muesky6969]

I'm glad you like him. Every bit of him!

Big muscle daddies always get me going but I like wiry guys around 30 y.o. too! Oh, and short guys. And man-buns. and, and, and...

You have quite the project planned! I am so excited for you! There are a lot of moving parts to cast a life sized figure in silicone. I would recommend getting as many samples as you can and try them out in a way that is as close as possible to the final product. Soma Foama is a great product to use for a lighter doll because it can bond to the outer skin of the doll. It is tricky to use though. The molds have to be fairly strong so they will create back pressure against the foam as it expands. Also, I remember that it starts foaming immediately so smaller batches are good to make sure that everything is completely mixed before pouring.

For the molds themselves, doll manufacturers invest in making them out of fiberglass (or maybe metal for TPU). They are bulletproof and will make many castings, but it is a long process and the materials can be pretty toxic. You can cast silicone into a silicone mold, but it can stick to itself and a mold release is recommended. The mold release residue can stay on the silicone and make it harder for the silicone part to bond with outer layers of silicone paint.

Another choice might be polyurethane. It doesn't bond to silicone, so no mold release is required and it's also about half the price! Since you are making a mold of a silicone original and casting the final print in silicone you might not need a mold release at all!

For the flexible mold made of silicone or polyurethane a stiff outer mold is recommended. Here is a video that goes over the process of making a polyurethane mold with a polyurethane mother mold:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROtE_i3 ... dex=3&t=2s

I haven't worked out all the details about how I am going to cast my doll. I don't even know where I would do it!

Currently I have my doll workshop set up in the guest bedroom, but now that I've added the 3D printers next to my computer they are taking over my bedroom too! If I get far along with this project I'll probably move my bed to the guest bedroom and give the whole top floor to the dolls!

Here is what I have been working on this weekend. All three printers humming along! I printed out a full sized head from the ginger model above to test out some new filament and how is smooths out. It is actually a good scale to match the full Smitizen suit I have. Maybe I'll cast him in silicone when I get back to that project. I'm printing out some feet for Troy too.

IMG20220611213655.jpg

IMG20220612143827.jpg

SactoJoe we have similar taste in men.. I prefer big muscle bears myself, but yeah some handsome 30 year olds like the guy in the picture, is very nice, as well.

Thank you for suggesting the polyurethane!! Cheap and easy, is always a good sell point for me.. LOL!! I really am going to go low tech for making a doll body from scratch.. Since I want to have options for making different type bodies and not having to recreate things over and over again. I am going to make a sand pit or maybe soft memory foam mattress in an inflatable kiddy pool that the body mold will rest in during casting. This way everything can be packed up and stored away until the next time. So I am going to mold front and back separately then connect them once the expanding foam is trimmed down..

Here is the thing.. I want to redesign these skeletons.. Ball and sockets joints for the hips, wrists, ankles and neck where it meets the head.. Hinged joints for the elbows and knees. Still not firing on all cylinders right now, so haven't got the diagrams drawn out.. I am going to contact my brother and see if he would be willing to weld up skeletons for me (he can weld anything), just need to find a wholesale supplier of stainless steel tubing..

Your being able to 3D print heads and body parts is a game changer.. We just need someone to make the skulls and we are in the doll making business.. Speaking of body parts... Ahhh can you print out molds for orifices?

6' muscular bear doll with any face you want that only weighs 50lbs.. We are so close to being able to do this.. Oh I really like the foot you printed.. That is nice, real nice.

[aaa1235]

It's true, if tinkerers can figure out how to make a bigger doll that is light enough to move, then that's a win for all male dolls! If what we are doing can inspire other tinkerers to try things out, even better. If I share something that works for me and it helps someone else I'm very gratified.

I'm sure those projects will be interesting for many of us. Maybe we won't be able to try it right now, but at least the "idea" has already been spread to all of us. So who knows, maybe in the next year, next couple of years, some of us will revisit the idea.

There are a lot of really good videos online about mold making but I came across this one that is a good mix of cutting corners and combining materials for the needed strength. I'm doing all this in my guest bedroom so I like that all the materials are less toxic than the standard ones. It's still a lengthy process though:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROtE_i3 ... WL&index=3

I guess there's a reason why they still do it the harder way Thankyou for the video! Definitely helps understanding the basics of mold casting. There are a lot of new things to understand from this forum thread since this is the first time I dive into making molds and making dolls haha. So cool

Hey AAA,

Here is another model I've been working on that might be more your taste. I have so many!

Sam`.gif

I really need to lock all the details down. These guys are begging to be brought to life!

Very truee! spot on. That guy is definitely right up my alley I don't mind the eye candy of a muscular bulky guy too though Each one has charm of its own. After you start, it will be hard to stop with just one of course

[aaa1235]

So many ideas from you Sactojoe and muesky, a bit hard to follow for me, but of course interesting. Slowly gaining more knowledge on this haha.

Also thanks for the picture of your workroom, SactoJoe! Indeed a very busy factory lol I'm sure muesky's workroom isn't that different. The newest 3D print you done looks very smooth. From the photo it already looks like a sculpted one except for the color. I can only see small differences from the photo.

*I also see some testing on smaller full body print of a cute guy there haha

[sactojoe]

SactoJoe we have similar taste in men.. I prefer big muscle bears myself, but yeah some handsome 30 year olds like the guy in the picture, is very nice, as well.

Thank you for suggesting the polyurethane!! Cheap and easy, is always a good sell point for me.. LOL!! I really am going to go low tech for making a doll body from scratch.. Since I want to have options for making different type bodies and not having to recreate things over and over again. I am going to make a sand pit or maybe soft memory foam mattress in an inflatable kiddy pool that the body mold will rest in during casting. This way everything can be packed up and stored away until the next time. So I am going to mold front and back separately then connect them once the expanding foam is trimmed down..

Here is the thing.. I want to redesign these skeletons.. Ball and sockets joints for the hips, wrists, ankles and neck where it meets the head.. Hinged joints for the elbows and knees. Still not firing on all cylinders right now, so haven't got the diagrams drawn out.. I am going to contact my brother and see if he would be willing to weld up skeletons for me (he can weld anything), just need to find a wholesale supplier of stainless steel tubing..

Your being able to 3D print heads and body parts is a game changer.. We just need someone to make the skulls and we are in the doll making business.. Speaking of body parts... Ahhh can you print out molds for orifices?

6' muscular bear doll with any face you want that only weighs 50lbs.. We are so close to being able to do this..

Muscles Bears for Everyone!!!

Mold making is a pretty complicated endeavor and I've been putting my tests off. All the parts I've printed are piling up. I gotta get these guys in silicone!

Any info you have on skeletons is helpful to me. I only know my own tests with different materials and the *TERRIBLE* PVC skeleton on my Gabriel. It would be nice to have some sort of poseable skeleton that holds it's shape, but it seems like most existing systems are too tight or too loose. Joints getting loose quickly or binding completely are concerns of mine too. Basically I want everything. Tight enough to hold a pose for photography and loose enough to be fun in the sack! I think it helps that the dolls we are working on are lighter and with a more forgiving foam core. The forces that will be acting against the joints will be less and that should make designing a skeleton easier. It would be great if I can make him stand. Having him hang around the house in a natural pose would be really cool!

I worked on my prints today. Some progress and some setbacks. For the big printer I have had in my head for years that I will print BIG on a BIG printer with BIG filament... I have been testing out bigger nozzles and they are really a pain. They do print out more plastic faster, but the blemishes are magnified too. The standard nozzles are .4mm wide which seems so tiny to print a 6' tall man, but the larger nozzles only allow me to print a wider line. This can save some time, but there is only so much plastic the print head can heat at a time anyway. I tried 1.2mm and .8mm and they looked amazing when the print started, but even my best prints aren't useable so far. Now I'm going back to the original nozzle and calibrating again. The good news is that I was way out on my own with the bigger nozzles and now I will have more useful info online for any issues that come up.

The good news! I realized that my small printers are exactly half the size of the big one. I was planning on printing a half size doll to test out everything, so now I can just take my full size parts and print them at half scale on the small ones to test. It is sooooooo much faster printing small first!

Here are todays prints. I am halfway through printing the parts. Tomorrow I should have them done and I can work on connecting them and finishing the master print that I can make a mold of.

Here's Auggie!!!

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[sactojoe]

So many ideas from you Sactojoe and muesky, a bit hard to follow for me, but of course interesting. Slowly gaining more knowledge on this haha.

Also thanks for the picture of your workroom, SactoJoe! Indeed a very busy factory lol I'm sure muesky's workroom isn't that different. The newest 3D print you done looks very smooth. From the photo it already looks like a sculpted one except for the color. I can only see small differences from the photo.

*I also see some testing on smaller full body print of a cute guy there haha

Thanks for the encouragement! I'm glad you find this interesting. The stuff I'm doing can be categorized as a full blown obsession now, so I think most people will read my posts and realize what they DON'T want to do with all their time! I'm having fun though!

I'm glad you liked the Ginger I posted. There are more where that came from. I just need more time!