Make your doll suck well :)

[Wheezer]

A nose job for a better blowjob - Initial Observations
This is an excellent idea that is easy to do. I tried one last night and here are my initial observations. More information will be come as I mod more heads.

The idea is straightforward, it removes any backpressure to oral insertion to improves the general effect. So far it seems to accomplish it.
Here is what I did, you can alter it depending on what equipment you have available. My goal was to open two paths from the nostrils to the oral cavity.

First – Make a Pilot Hole.
Lift up the nose, find the center point of the nose opening depression and insert a sharp object.
I used a sharpened rod, but a long nail or something like that will also work.

Once the sharp object is centered in the nose hole and partially inserted, stick your finger in her mouth as deep as you can and then continue to press in the sharp object.
Adjust the direction of the rod until you can feel it about to protrude in to the oral cavity. Then carefully press it all the way in, without impaling your finger.

Wiggle it about a bit and repeat several times until you get a small pilot hole started from the nose into the oral cavity. Then repeat the entire process with the other nose hole.
The results are two pilot holes that will guide your heat device in the next step.

Next – Enlarge the hole
To widen the pilot holes I used a temperature controlled soldering iron.
My unit uses an insert with a cool handle. That is only the soldering iron and insert shaft gets hot, the face of the handle remains cool and will not damage the TPE.
If your iron and handle does not have this feature, make sure to use some sort of heat barrier to prevent nose damage.
If you don’t have a soldering iron, then use an similar sized hot rod, poker, nail , etc. Just make sure to use a heat barrier to protect the nose.

Using the iron at between 100C to 110C the TPE slightly melted, sometime balling up into TPE goop (TPE snot?) and other times adhering to the soldering tip shaft.
I kept removing the TPE adhering to the soldering shaft and TPE goop to slowly complete a full hole.
No oil was used for this.

Finally – Remove TPE snot and repeat
Once the hole is done, remove the iron and use tweezers to remove remaining goop. Check the condition of the hole.
I repeated several times to get a decent sized hole for each nostril, making sure to protect the nose.

Results So Far ….
Eliminating the trapped air DOES improve oral activity. It feels smoother and you glide in, rather than fighting the TPE. So for that reason it is a worthwhile fix.

Eliminating the eye bulge appears to be dependent on your specific head.
On some heads the bulge comes from trapped air, so it should fix those cases.

In others cases the bulge results from the expanding TPE. There the oral tube is small or close to the skin.
When your “probe” is inserted it displaces TPE which causes eye bulging.
A simple skull modification usually fixes it.

Before you start this, check your head
Before you try this, you should check if your doll head already has an air vent. If so then this may not help much.
Check the base of the head. If there is an extra open hole, then your oral tube may vent into the skull.
If your current head does NOT eye bulge then it may also vent into the skull.

To be absolutely sure, do a liquid test. Place the head upright and insert some water/soap mixture the mouth, filling it completely. Note the full position and then let it sit for a while.
If you come back and the level is lower, then you have a vented oral tube.
If afterwards you hear sloshing in the skull you have a vented oral tube.
When done testing just drain the liquids from the skull.

Nose Hole Tools
For my first I used my soldering iron because it was handy and I like it. This is the set up I generally use.

(01.0)_Soldering_Station.jpg (408.79 KiB) Viewed 739 times

Another option is a foam cutting tool, as was used for the original modification. You can adjust the voltage to get the temperature required. I will use this on my next modification. The end gets hot so it will need heat protection.

(02)_Foam_Tool.jpg (782.48 KiB) Viewed 739 times

One more option is a Clover Mini Iron II. This core is just a regular 40w soldering iron, but they added a power setting control and the ability to change and alter tips. You can use it from hole punching to smoothing.
Here I have some drill rod that will fit into the unit and can also be used to make nose holes. You could also use a metal tube with heat to core out a nose to oral cavity hole.
As with the foam cutting tool, you will need some heat protection since the shaft gets hot.

(03a)_Clover_Kit.jpg (887.15 KiB) Viewed 739 times

(03b)_Clover_Rods.jpg (575.88 KiB) Viewed 739 times

I like the nose hole modification idea.
Very nice!

Cheers!
... W …

[nox2doll]

Thank you for writing a coherent and clear instruction to implement the matter. I usually use google translator if I have to write more complicated English, but unfortunately google usually makes it into incomprehensible porridge. I will try to proofread the text, but not every choice of words will be checked (this is also a text produced by google translator).

..and as nice to know, same as finnish language

Kiitokset, että kirjoitit johdonmukaisen ja selkeän ohjeen asian toteuttamiseksi. Yleensä käytän google kääntäjää jos pitäisi kirjoittaa monimutkaisempaa englantia mutta valitettavasti google tekee siitä yleensä käsittämätöntä puuroa. Yritän kyllä oikolukea tekstin mutta jokaista sanavalintaa ei tule tarkistettua (tämäkin google kääntäjän tuottamaa tekstiä).

.. the translation is not accurate, google don't understand very well different tenses from finnish language. So, it just simplify the text

[curiousswede]

Fuck! This makes me wanna order a new head that I'd only use for blowjobs after that modification!

(Write it off as a business expense declared as "Yearly Health Benefits"?)

I would go the "cut shit out" approach since I am too hypochondriac to use any hot tools that could cause gases and I no good vent for it (living in apartment). An apartment complex close to me had a fire started a few years ago when people decided to have a literal BBQ on their balcony during the summer, so doing hot stuff on the balcony is a no-no.

I wonder two things:

1. How wide should the canals or holes be? If they aren't big enough, the sticky oil would probably sooner or later cause the rip to just "half-glue" itself together again? Or maybe it will act like flaps since the "gluing" is not that strong?

2. How do you deal with cleaning? Because not only air would get pushed out of the nose, I also assume some lube and even maybe cum could get stuck in their nose canals/holes as you cum inside her mouth?

Thanks for the awesome info!

/ CS.

[nox2doll]

1. ) about 1mm would be good (air will find a way).
2.) use pussy bottle for nose

Thats short answer..

[Socratus]

A nose job for a better blowjob - Initial Observations
This is an excellent idea that is easy to do. I tried one last night and here are my initial observations. More information will be come as I mod more heads.

The idea is straightforward, it removes any backpressure to oral insertion to improves the general effect. So far it seems to accomplish it.
Here is what I did, you can alter it depending on what equipment you have available. My goal was to open two paths from the nostrils to the oral cavity.

First – Make a Pilot Hole.
Lift up the nose, find the center point of the nose opening depression and insert a sharp object.
I used a sharpened rod, but a long nail or something like that will also work.

Once the sharp object is centered in the nose hole and partially inserted, stick your finger in her mouth as deep as you can and then continue to press in the sharp object.
Adjust the direction of the rod until you can feel it about to protrude in to the oral cavity. Then carefully press it all the way in, without impaling your finger.

Wiggle it about a bit and repeat several times until you get a small pilot hole started from the nose into the oral cavity. Then repeat the entire process with the other nose hole.
The results are two pilot holes that will guide your heat device in the next step.

Next – Enlarge the hole
To widen the pilot holes I used a temperature controlled soldering iron.
My unit uses an insert with a cool handle. That is only the soldering iron and insert shaft gets hot, the face of the handle remains cool and will not damage the TPE.
If your iron and handle does not have this feature, make sure to use some sort of heat barrier to prevent nose damage.
If you don’t have a soldering iron, then use an similar sized hot rod, poker, nail , etc. Just make sure to use a heat barrier to protect the nose.

Using the iron at between 100C to 110C the TPE slightly melted, sometime balling up into TPE goop (TPE snot?) and other times adhering to the soldering tip shaft.
I kept removing the TPE adhering to the soldering shaft and TPE goop to slowly complete a full hole.
No oil was used for this.

Finally – Remove TPE snot and repeat
Once the hole is done, remove the iron and use tweezers to remove remaining goop. Check the condition of the hole.
I repeated several times to get a decent sized hole for each nostril, making sure to protect the nose.

Results So Far ….
Eliminating the trapped air DOES improve oral activity. It feels smoother and you glide in, rather than fighting the TPE. So for that reason it is a worthwhile fix.

Eliminating the eye bulge appears to be dependent on your specific head.
On some heads the bulge comes from trapped air, so it should fix those cases.

In others cases the bulge results from the expanding TPE. There the oral tube is small or close to the skin.
When your “probe” is inserted it displaces TPE which causes eye bulging.
A simple skull modification usually fixes it.

Before you start this, check your head
Before you try this, you should check if your doll head already has an air vent. If so then this may not help much.
Check the base of the head. If there is an extra open hole, then your oral tube may vent into the skull.
If your current head does NOT eye bulge then it may also vent into the skull.

To be absolutely sure, do a liquid test. Place the head upright and insert some water/soap mixture the mouth, filling it completely. Note the full position and then let it sit for a while.
If you come back and the level is lower, then you have a vented oral tube.
If afterwards you hear sloshing in the skull you have a vented oral tube.
When done testing just drain the liquids from the skull.

Nose Hole Tools
For my first I used my soldering iron because it was handy and I like it. This is the set up I generally use.
(01.0)_Soldering_Station.jpg

Another option is a foam cutting tool, as was used for the original modification. You can adjust the voltage to get the temperature required. I will use this on my next modification. The end gets hot so it will need heat protection.
(02)_Foam_Tool.jpg

One more option is a Clover Mini Iron II. This core is just a regular 40w soldering iron, but they added a power setting control and the ability to change and alter tips. You can use it from hole punching to smoothing.
Here I have some drill rod that will fit into the unit and can also be used to make nose holes. You could also use a metal tube with heat to core out a nose to oral cavity hole.
As with the foam cutting tool, you will need some heat protection since the shaft gets hot.
(03a)_Clover_Kit.jpg(03b)_Clover_Rods.jpg

I like the nose hole modification idea.
Very nice!

Cheers!
... W …

Thankyou. Great write up. I was waiting to see how it would turn out from a test from someone who knows his stuff.

Cheers.

[curiousswede]

1. ) about 1mm would be good (air will find a way).
2.) use pussy bottle for nose

Thats short answer..

1) Oh, only 1 mm is needed? I thought of like 10mm (1cm/half an inch) or something along those lines!

2) What is a pussy bottle? I find this which is scientifically correct but probably not what you meant!

Feel free to link to what kind of pussy bottle you meant!

/ CS.

[nox2doll]

Yes, the holes don't need to be large and if they are the doll won't suck at all

The pussy bottle is something usually delivered with a doll. Small plastic bottle for cleaning doll's inside.

url.png (13.69 KiB) Viewed 594 times

A simple water pump

[Wheezer]

Thank you for writing a coherent and clear instruction to implement the matter. I usually use google translator if I have to write more complicated English, but unfortunately google usually makes it into incomprehensible porridge. I will try to proofread the text, but not every choice of words will be checked (this is also a text produced by google translator).

Glad to help.

Good ideas and innovation are what helps keep TDF and the doll community vibrant and growing.
Usually when something new like this comes up I try it out on the bench to see if it works a described.

If it does not work, well I just let it go. No point in pissing in someone's porridge.
However if it does work out well, then a write-up to help others seems reasonable.

Great idea.
Cheers!
... W ...

[Wheezer]

Thankyou. Great write up. I was waiting to see how it would turn out from a test from someone who knows his stuff.

Cheers.

Thanks ... I appreciate the comments.

Right now I have a smaller head ready for makeover that I will rework in the next few days.
For this one I'm planning on using a stainless steel probe to create the initial pilot hole, then (while still in the nose) attach it to the Clover heater.
The goal being to reduce one step by using the same tool and prevent secondary damage.

More later.
Cheers!
... W ...

[Wheezer]

1) Oh, only 1 mm is needed? I thought of like 10mm (1cm/half an inch) or something along those lines!

FWIW when I did my first prototype based upon the OPs suggestions, I made two nose holes using my soldering iron.
Each hole was 5mm, for a total of10mm placed midway along the oral cavity.
So a 10mm total size is not unreasonable.

When in use she will snort and such, like a real situation.
Also depending on how much lube you use, her nose will run. Again like some real situations.

You CAN go one step further, depending on your tastes.

A small opening could be run from the inner eye area (near the nose) to the oral cavity.
Then, with enough lube, she could also tear up during active oral insertion.
Not my cup of swill, but some folks like that visual.

Cheers!
... W ...

[Wheezer]

2) What is a pussy bottle?

I think he explained it well.
But perhaps he meant THIS

71xk2DcbscL._SL1500_.jpg (61.32 KiB) Viewed 558 times

I have heard that this is an invigorating elixir for those times when your TPE doll's lady parts are not quite ready for round two.
Just a squirt or two up her plastic twat and she is good to go again !
(But there may be some fizz leakage)

Cheers!
... W ...

[Wheezer]

I modified another this afternoon using a different method.

This was to use the same stainless steel rod for both the pilot hole device AND hole melting.

Basically it was insert the rod, then adjust until it comes out at the back of the oral tube. Same process for both nostrils.
You can open the mouth with your fingers to confirm the final position of the rods and adjust if needed.

Leave the rod inserted and attach the Clover heating device and power up to full power. Wait LONG time until it gets hot enough.
Then add some oil and wiggle in, out and about to melt/cauterize a channel.
Detach heating device, leave rod in place and repeat on other nostril while the first cools.

When both are done insert the shaft of an oiled ear bud in each nostril to make sure the TPE does not bind back to itself.
I can post parts and pics, but the process is pretty straightforward.

The result is a channel about 1mm or so. The results so far are impressive.

As your "probe" is inserted the excess air exhausts through the nose, so slip in is easy.
When your "probe" is retracted the two nose channels collapse and prevent the inrush of air.
The result is actually some decent suction !
Plus eye bulge is noticeably absent ... and this was on a SMALL test head.

Thus it appears that that the nose channels are acting like an air valve, and that smaller hole size is better.
So all that may be needed is a pilot hole to act as an air valve, melting may not be required.
This would greatly simply the process and reduce chances of nose damage.

The third mod I plan is to JUST create pilot holes alone, no melting.
These will go to the furthest back point of the oral canal.
This will see if the pilot holes themselves are enough to create suction.

Plus I will try adding two 5mm melted holes that go in about 1cm to the top of the oral canal.
These will test to see if the closer front holes will give a bit of nose leak/slobber effect.
The test is to see of when the "probe" is retracted excess lube will be ejected from the nose, then onto the "probe" shaft.
Hopefully improving lubrication, visual appeal and general operation.

More later, gotta do some testing.

Cheers!
... W ...

[nox2doll]

You can allways create a mini vagina insert for the nose for testing different sucking strenght.. thats good way to proceed if you did too big air canals. The suitable tool can be done from mechanical pencil's top metal part (don't know the word). That of course need an extra tpe material to work with. So, just press the mini vagina insert from half inch tpe material and create a hole through it

Tpe material itself works as dynamic valve, letting air out more easily than shucking it in. Thats why the holes no need to be very large. It seems that Wheezer already sed that

[nox2doll]

So all that may be needed is a pilot hole to act as an air valve, melting may not be required.
This would greatly simply the process and reduce chances of nose damage.

Very true but if you want to play with doll's "authentic" voices and liquid things the actual hole is needed

Also, the cleaning is easier when the canals are more than just incision to tpe material.

[Wheezer]

A pilot hole itself does not seem to work dependably, an actual hole is required.

A pilot hole or incision will work until there is pressure on the TPE to collapse it. Then it acts sealed.
An actual hole with will stay open as the TPE expands when the probe in inserted.
Thus performing the valve action.

Failure is good, it leads to better solutions.
Cheers!
... W ...