Make your doll suck well :)

[Wheezer]

[nox2doll]

I have one head, bought it from someone here so it's second hand, lol - there is a hole in the fiber skull near where the M16 screws into the fiber skull and I can see what looks like an indentation at the back of the canal (throat) but this head doesn't disperse the air during fun time (if the indentation is a valve, it is stuck shut) and I have cleaned this mouth/canal several times well and I can see it, and pushing on it doesn't do anything but stretch the TPE.

That mod works only under air pressure.

If the head you use for this already has a hole in the doll's mouth (somewhere in the back), the nose channels don't do anything extra.

That hole in that head doesn't appear to work or do anything. maybe the same skull is made for different heads. The nose mod worked well, she can breathe now giving head and the sounds...oh my...priceless! I'm going to do this to any head that produces backpressure as this helped alot!

Good to hear that the mod is working. In principle, this is not a difficult task with that form cutter pen. Personally, I complete the process with an already heated stick, allowing it to smoothly penetrate the TPE material. When removed, part of the material adheres to the stick as a flat film, potentially creating the channel after just one treatment. The task requires patience, a steady hand, and, of course, the ability to visually estimate the angle of the channel correctly.

I don't think making a pilot hole helps because the hot stick doesn't follow the created pilot hole, and thus there is an extra channel in the nose. I haven't tried doing it that way myself; this is just an estimate of what could happen.

[nox2doll]

I have updated the topic in question on the doll-tech page and will add more later if I notice that something essential is missing from the instructions. The same subject is covered in the magazine, but in practice only with finished pictures and various word reversals.

[makemydrink]

I have one head, bought it from someone here so it's second hand, lol - there is a hole in the fiber skull near where the M16 screws into the fiber skull and I can see what looks like an indentation at the back of the canal (throat) but this head doesn't disperse the air during fun time (if the indentation is a valve, it is stuck shut) and I have cleaned this mouth/canal several times well and I can see it, and pushing on it doesn't do anything but stretch the TPE.

That mod works only under air pressure.

If the head you use for this already has a hole in the doll's mouth (somewhere in the back), the nose channels don't do anything extra.

That hole in that head doesn't appear to work or do anything. maybe the same skull is made for different heads. The nose mod worked well, she can breathe now giving head and the sounds...oh my...priceless! I'm going to do this to any head that produces backpressure as this helped alot!

Good to hear that the mod is working. In principle, this is not a difficult task with that form cutter pen. Personally, I complete the process with an already heated stick, allowing it to smoothly penetrate the TPE material. When removed, part of the material adheres to the stick as a flat film, potentially creating the channel after just one treatment. The task requires patience, a steady hand, and, of course, the ability to visually estimate the angle of the channel correctly.

I don't think making a pilot hole helps because the hot stick doesn't follow the created pilot hole, and thus there is an extra channel in the nose. I haven't tried doing it that way myself; this is just an estimate of what could happen.

When I cleaned the head (after use of course) I cleaned the mouth channel, then I used a q-tip with peroxide on it, one for each nostrils, both ends, then a dry one, then finish with a air gun to blow the most of the water out and then the aquarium pump for an hour or so, dry and clean

I used a foam cutter, pushed it in cold, got the angle I thought was right and then turned it on low and it melted and pushed through the TPE, then went on and off and went in and out of the hole until it was open removing the little goo that stuck to the rod on the foam cutter. No damage to the nose and you can't feel it inside, the only thing I didn't get right was I was trying for the back of the mouth channel and I ended up an inch or so from the back so when all the way inside the last inch or so built up a little pressure but nothing like it was before, a huge difference in felling and usability of the head

[Wheezer]

The pilot hole or using a cold foam cutter first seems to work best if it is your first one or you do them occasionally.
As was noted, with experience you have a good feeling of the angle to use to reach the back of the throat.
Lacking that it is easy to miss and not get the results that you want.

With ANY doll modification (no matter how simple) it is smart to practice first before your permanent hack on your doll.
Much less need to fix goofs that way.

Cheers!
... W ...

[makemydrink]

The pilot hole or using a cold foam cutter first seems to work best if it is your first one or you do them occasionally.
As was noted, with experience you have a good feeling of the angle to use to reach the back of the throat.
Lacking that it is easy to miss and not get the results that you want.

With ANY doll modification (no matter how simple) it is smart to practice first before your permanent hack on your doll.
Much less need to fix goofs that way.

Cheers!
... W ...

I hear you W. I bought 2 used heads here so I could do just that. Practice first with those, getting to know a doll head, cleaning it, coloring the lips, making the nose mod. Creating a device that will hold the head and allow me to move the head at will for a realistic bj and the nose channel mod is the best for a much, much improved and now great bj

[Wheezer]

I hear you W. I bought 2 used heads here so I could do just that. Practice first with those, getting to know a doll head, cleaning it, coloring the lips, making the nose mod. Creating a device that will hold the head and allow me to move the head at will for a realistic bj and the nose channel mod is the best for a much, much improved and now great bj

There are a lot of good ideas out there and some interesting innovation with doll stands. Most are for display.

For doing makeup or head maintenance I like to use a Panvise Model300 vice on the 312 base. It has worked quite well.
You can see more about it HERE (viewtopic.php?p=2443371)

Cheers!
... W ...

[Space1invader]

I am having diffrend way to do this:
viewtopic.php?p=2527651#p2527651