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Making a custom silicone insert

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dparson
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Making a custom silicone insert

Post by dparson »

Hi all,

I embarked on this project a couple of months ago and wanted to share the experience of upgrading a doll that started with a built-in vagina to having a custom, home-made insert. Back in Oct 2023 I detailed repair attempts here viewtopic.php?p=2431091#p2431091 and this is basically a continuation of that effort.
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The hardness of the adhesive used to perform the repairs eventually caused tears of the softer surrounding silicone. The repairs were lasting 1-3 months but I wanted to see if another approach would last longer. Initially I considered carving out 2-3mm all around the opening and replacing it with the adhesive but after some hardness tests, realized the adhesive's lack of stretchiness would not work. So I purchased some products to make a softer adhesive and did a lot of adherence and softness testing, and eventually came up with a silicone mixture that I thought would work, all detailed here viewtopic.php?t=179704
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When it came time to prepare the doll for the repair, I noticed the inside silicone was a bright pink and had a strong, loose edge inside the opening. I inspected further and to my surprise discovered the internal vagina was not a part of the doll's outer silicone, it was a completely separate sleeve that appears to have been placed in the doll mold prior to being poured. It wasn't strongly adhered to the rest of the doll and gave me another idea on how to go about the repair. I thought about it for a couple of minutes since I knew there would be no going back but ultimately made the huge decision to remove the sleeve and start a much bigger project. This is exactly what it looked like after removal, with cuts along its edges as performed by someone at the factory.
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My project was going to be creating a custom insert with exposed labia. I had seen inserts that include the labia and always appreciated the design; I once had a WM Doll with removeable insert but it would easily shift around in the internal cavity and I thought the types shown below would be a big improvement. Plus if they tore it would be easy to repair or replace them. I also liked the idea of customizing the internal structure since the doll's original insert was just a basic, ribbed design.
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dparson
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Re: Making a custom insert

Post by dparson »

To begin this new project I carved out the vaginal opening and used some long, curved sissors to deepen the cavity from about 15cm to 18cm. I then designed a 3d printed internal mold used to fill the cavity and give it a known internal shape.
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I used my originally-planned adhesive mixture to create what I hope is a smooth, strong, flexible, and long-lasting opening for the insert. It won't be undergoing a lot of wear and tear so I'm very interested to see how long it lasts.
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For the outer part of the custom insert I watched some YouTube videos on sculpting and did a test with some poster tack I had on hand. It's not as good as the clay I saw in the videos since it's very hard to blend edges together seemlessly (I gave up on that) but I thought it looked good and knew it would be possible to fix edges later in the process. After testing that the poster tack didn't intefere with the silicone cure, I made a shape that would completely fill the opening on the doll with the legs spread and made a mold using some psycho paint. Psycho paint is a flexible silicone, A-30 on the shore harness scale, with additional adhesive properties over normal silicone, and it worked fine as a mold. The finished mold is on the left while the right demonstrates what it looked like before the psycho paint was poured. After it cured I cut the edge open and removed the poster tack sculpture, leaving a mold I would use in future steps.
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dparson
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Re: Making a custom insert

Post by dparson »

I spent a lot of time and testing on how to make the actual insert, figuring out shapes and thicknesses and a lot of trial and error on creating a mold that would not leak, could be poured fairly easily, and could be demolded without too many problems. I made inserts that were way too hard and too soft. I made molds that wouldn't hold the silicone and slowly poured out everywhere. I made molds that had to be broken in order to be removed and also molds that would not fill completely. I didn't take pictures of all the failed attempts but eventually figured things out.

Below are the inserts I made after solving all the various problems. These are cross-sections that show the outer mold (which is a hollow cylinder) along with the internal mold used to create the internal shape of the insert. The outer mold has a pour spout with funnel where the silicone is poured on the right, along with a breather hole. You can see the first insert is pretty straightward with an interesting bit in the middle, sorta a cervix. The second one adds some more interest between the start and middle areas and has some tweaks to the cervix opening. In the third one I changed the middle and in the last one did tweaks to the start and middle, and added an additional experience at the end. Being custom fit for shapes, distances, and tightness; it's pretty ridiculous and might have ruined me so just be warned if you do something similar lol
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Here is the process used to create that last insert pictured above. You can see the outer shell is composed of 4 parts and is 3d printed in a clear/white plastic. This shell has been used for several pours and pink silicone has found its way through the 3d printed layer lines and is the reason for the discoloration. The internal mold is printed in a black plastic. The inside of the shell and outside of the internal mold are both coated with petroleum jelly to act as a release agent.
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The mold for the labia is also prepared with petroleum jelly.
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12g of silicone is needed for the first step and I mix Ecoflex OO-20 with some flesh and red pigments, then use 4g of that mixture to pour the labia mold.
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I then add 3 drops of thi-vex to the remaining silicone to turn it into a paste and coat the edges of the shell and coat the entire inner mold (the black one).
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I then wrap the shell with some plastic wrap on the bottom and packing tape on the sides and allow the silicone to cure for about 1 hour. This ensures the shell will not leak.
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dparson
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Re: Making a custom insert

Post by dparson »

Once the silicone sets up I create a mixture of 65% Ecoflex OO-20 to 35% Slacker, along with some flesh and red pigment, and do the big pour. The slacker makes the mixture extremely soft and sticky and is the reason why the black inner mold was completely covered in a thin layer of 100% Ecoflex. The outer part of the insert will be this sticky silicone since it's not coated and this is done on purpose so the insert does not move when inside the doll. You can also see the little 3d printed funnel used to pour the silicone into the mold. There's a breather hole on top of the mold as well...another critical piece to this effort.
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After a few hours demolding can occur. The petroleum jelly makes this fairly easy with both the labia and the main insert, and since the shell is composed of 4 pieces, it does not break and can be reused. The inner insert doesn't survive though. It breaks when I'm removing the outer shell but it's not a part I would reuse anyway. There are holes on both sides of the insert at this point and I just slowly roll the silicone back onto itself to remove the inner mold.
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I then trim the two silicone parts and get them oriented for bonding together with 100% Ecoflex and some thi-vex, along with the flesh and red pigments. I mix up 4g for this step and all told, it takes 12+100+4 = 116g of silicone to make one of these inserts. After all the trial and error and wasting a lot of the original Ecoflex and Slacker, I was able to make 4 fully-working inserts. For reference, the $35 EcoFlex and $30 Slacker purchases provided 1300g of material in total, so I used a lot during the learning process and to prepare the cavity inside the doll.
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I spend several minutes with the thickened silicone and a toothpick to smooth out the edges of the labia that were not perfect due to the poor quality of my poster tack sculpture. I fill in voids and add structure where needed. Getting the right amount of thi-vex for this step is critical since I don't want the silicone to be so thick that it will not create a smooth surface, but also not too thin so it will stay in place. To achieve this I put a single drop on plastic and dip a toothpick into it when mixing the small 4g batch of silicone. So only a small percentage of a drop of thi-vex will result in the necessary consistency.
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After this last batch of silicone cures the insert is complete! It's very soft and doesn't have much structure, so I use a paint brush and soapy water to help slide it into place. I use paper towels and 2 aquarium air pump lines to dry out the soapy water used for this step and since the insert is so sticky and designed with almost no clearance, it's a semi-permanent installation. Cleaning is done with a custom solution shown here viewtopic.php?t=179983
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I have no idea how long these will last but will report any interesting happenings when they occur. Who knew repairing a torn vagina would lead to all of this lol

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RevJack
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Re: Making a custom insert

Post by RevJack »

I am speechless, thank you so incredibly much for sharing all this.
Seriously, thank you.

Reverend Jack
Reverend Jacks Roamin' Cadillac Sex Doll Repair. Roamin' the land fixin' dollies and handing out salvation from the back of his Cadillac.

ALSO TRY Reverend Jack's Anointed Snake Oil, good for cleansing stains from the body and the Soul! Step right up folks, only $5 a bottle! We got plenty to go around! Cash only please.

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dparson
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Re: Making a custom insert

Post by dparson »

Sure thing RevJack! Definitely a fun process making custom inserts for yourself, I hope others try it.

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