The Doll Forum

Yeah, only use the salty blend for dildo's!

RK

This is an old thread. It has a couple of ideas that might be useful or interesting.
http://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtopi ... 75#p624175

MannequinFan wrote: I just noticed on RK's pic he posted the package says "salty".
They add salt to the plastic mix for some lures to adjust the float or sink rate of the bait (lol I'm learning a little more than I wanted to about fish bait) which also can adversely affect the durability of the plastic.

Long shot, for sure. If salt causes the material to be weaker, salt can easily be removed by dissolving it in hot water.

It's been a while since my last update, but don't worry, I'm still here. I retried melting the FL material with better insulation and contact, but it went just as poorly as the first time...
It brought to my attention a few issues with how I am heating and stirring the material. Additionally, I'm trying a new mineral oil in my mix which performs much better in many ways, but causes it to exhibit melt issues similar to that of the FL material.

Once I have the major kinks worked out I'll get back to posting updates. It's looking very promising, and I can't wait to start moving forward again. Everything about TPE seems to be a struggle...

xama4 wrote:It's been a while since my last update, but don't worry, I'm still here. I retried melting the FL material with better insulation and contact, but it went just as poorly as the first time...
It brought to my attention a few issues with how I am heating and stirring the material. Additionally, I'm trying a new mineral oil in my mix which performs much better in many ways, but causes it to exhibit melt issues similar to that of the FL material.

Once I have the major kinks worked out I'll get back to posting updates. It's looking very promising, and I can't wait to start moving forward again. Everything about TPE seems to be a struggle...

Does anybody know if you can add to the color of TPE when melting it?

That is a good question.

Well... you can definitely add color to liquid TPE as the doll is being poured, so you melted TPE could theoretically take on color also.

The question is: Would the color stay local to the area where you want it to stay, or would it disperse throughout the rest of the doll over time?

Also, if you decide to melt TPE, do so only outside wearing a full respiration device as you definitely do not want to breathe in TPE fumes as they will make you very sick and possibly have long-term health consequences.

I am with the prior poster who expressed interest in using molten TPE to do doll repairs. I keep hearing about how difficult it is to repair TPE dolls with glue- effectiveness and I assume cosmetics. If there were a way to apply molten TPE to effect a doll repair, smooth or mold it out just right, and have a strong, stretchable bond, that would seem to be awesome. A TPE doll could be made to last so much longer.

Maybe the more skillful among us could use this method to do cosmetic surgery to dolls- breast enlargement or reduction, lip pouting, horns, elf ears, you name it.

DollAfficionado wrote:That is a good question.

Well... you can definitely add color to liquid TPE as the doll is being poured, so you melted TPE could theoretically take on color also.

The question is: Would the color stay local to the area where you want it to stay, or would it disperse throughout the rest of the doll over time?

Also, if you decide to melt TPE, do so only outside wearing a full respiration device as you definitely do not want to breathe in TPE fumes as they will make you very sick and possibly have long-term health consequences.

I was really wanting to try and reuse TPE, but after hearing allot about it being toxic, I think I'll just try and learn how to build with silicone. I really have no way to melt TPE outside as I live in an apartment and usually have allot of traffic on the sidewalk.

Bump, because it's interesting.

Love you guys, havent posted in a while; Iv'e been doing TPE for some time now, melted FL and now got some pellets from a Chinese manufacturer that is clear, i use oil based foundation for color that i stir in the mineral oil before adding the TPE, and cover the stovetop pot with a tight sealing aluminum lid. Between plat cure and TPE, they both have their ins and outs, TPE i can recycle my fails, but with plat cure you can't, but plat cure has desirable properties for my faces i make. Look at my post of "Building my Janice" under inventers corner, i have both been using those of TPE and plat cure. My buget is tight, and plat cure is costly if i have too many fails. I did use acrylic clear to seal the plaster mold i use, and vaseline for the release, works good for either material. May try oil base artist paint. Always learning
I got a 2 pound order of Ecoflex coming i will try soon

Checked your thread. You're coming along nicely and exhibiting skill sets that impress.

Where did you get the pellets?

http://www.hctpe.com/series.php is were i emailed the company, but hard to remember how. They are H&C Plastics, i just googled " food grade TPE resin", and had email contact who helped steer me to the right stuff, and they sent a 5KG sample, payed 55$ in shipping, add mineral oil to adjust softness.

Click on English to translate the page

BigBurrito wrote:http://www.hctpe.com/series.php is were i emailed the company, but hard to remember how. They are H&C Plastics, i just googled " food grade TPE resin", and had email contact who helped steer me to the right stuff, and they sent a 5KG sample, payed 55$ in shipping, add mineral oil to adjust softness.

Thank you. I don't remember whether I've tried that Google search but know it pops up many results; eg, https://goo.gl/images/6L7cjc Most state they have SEBS when what i seek is SBS.

Sadly, I've not had the resources to risk. I'm glad your source has been reliable.

I'm aware that different grades of mineral influence the end product greatly. For instance, DuPont mineral oil renders decent quality; Johnson's baby oil renders poor quality.