The Doll Forum

These are tougher to repair than cuts.

If you use any heating methods, do so at your own risk.
TDF and we at BCD are not responsible if you botch up the repair.

******Please remember SAFETY FIRST*********

For small abrasions, indigo20 smoother from the repair kit will do just fine.
Pointer- use a bit baby oil to stops a bit the situation that the abrasion is getting stronger.

Although "Smoother" from the repair kit is able to deal with abrasions, it works slow so if you have a large abrasion, you might want to consider a rework station with heat gun.

Please watch these 2 videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHC0Y14eMBY


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYk6NojMAqI


The area (the breasts) is prepared with mineral oil.
The used temperature is a bit too high (above 220°Celsius), you see the smoke and that the TPE becomes liquid very fast.
A temperature around 190-200°Celsius and more distance of the heat gun to the TPE surface is better, the smoothing effect is slowier but more controlled and without that heavy smoke.
There will always be a bit smoke.
********That smoke is unhealthy!!!!**********

It is necessary to have a permanent ventilation with fresh air or smoke extractor or a mask (half-mask) with filter against organic chemicals.

The second video shows at the end that the worker is using a fine fabric sheet to .
brings back the TPE surface structure else it would be smooth and shiny.
You can use a sand paper instead and press it on the hot TPE

Rework stations only with heat gun are available at ebay for about $30 and rework stations with heat gun and temperature controled soldering iron are about $50.

Fantastic videos!
What model heat gun is that?

Mishka

Moved this to repairs and maintenace. Will Sticky if enough interest.

As stated forced ventilation and extraction is recommended for the fumes as they are toxic, and I recommend practicing techniques on spare TPE first, to master the skill sets, as these girls do this all day every day and are masters at the craft.

Anung

Thank you for the videos and extra info

What kind sandpapper (gradient), the shiny side or the sandy side ? wet or dry, looks like the fabric in video is wet ?

thanks

Booty Call Dolls wrote: You can use a sand paper instead and press it on the hot TPE

Can You please expand and explain how to use sandpapper here ...

Thanks

hahaha i just can not wrap my head around how to use sandpapper here . so i humbly ask how do one use sandpapper and if fine cloth should it then be wet ...

hahaha somebody just wrote stuff they have no clue about . i sure dont from description ...

thanks

Sure, I do not use it my self with hot work, but there are two techniques, one involves mineral oil and wet and dry 800 grain and 1200 grain for finishing to remove a shiny tpe area that has been heat effected by hot work, so a form of blending, and the other technique is more like using sand paper for pore imprinting. The first is done, once heated tpe has cured and cooled.

So with this second technique, you would use a 600 grain sand paper, over an oiled and semi molten tpe repair area, and press the paper onto the area then remove. This is an alternate form of blending used to simulate skin pores.

I discuss tpe hot work repairs here https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 9#p1279899 and here https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 7#p1281557 but I have not detailed the use of sanpaper, as I use a cotton sheet material of 200 plus thread count soaked in mineral oil, like the Chinese factories do, for blend finishing and smoothing.

Trust this assists.

Anung

thanks Anung . preparing to try ...

also for small cuts will try make a aluminium can cut into spatula mounted around a solder iron 170 C to start and se . or if i can find some other thin metal laying around . ahhh i have some thin foil copper ... or maybe use a thin washer shim mounted on solder iron tip holder ...

again thanks for clarifying ...

V

Thank you for posting this. To confirm, the heat gun is a special type of tool? An ordinary hairdryer would probably not work, I assume.

The first two video links to You Tube are no longer good. The question about using sandpaper on a TPE is addressed on this You Tube video link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZxzfN4NXH4 The video show several types of repair using a heat gun and it clearly shows how to use the sandpaper.

It does not show anything that would cause it to be deleted by You Tube.

Another way to remove abrasions is by using soap to remove the top layer of skin.

I have small cuts around the knees and elbows of my doll. Is there a way to fix those or os that just apart of normal wear and tear that I have to get use too?

You can fix cuts.......those are some high stress/movement areas.
You might want to use CWA ( email me at yourdollusa@gmail.com) if you are in the USA
If you do not pre treat the area with baby oil and use standard glue, you will get a hard scab on her skin

It's a shame the two videos in this post were removed, but there was still some great info in here. Abrasions have been the first damage I've done to my 'training wheels' doll - a cheap torso. I never imagined how much friction clothing can create just being put on or taken off a doll.