Special Project: EVA with Interactive Audio!
Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 12:40 am
Well, after taking a break from doing Evas I'm back on it with a very special Eva this time.
She'll have all the mods of the previous Evas but this one will include an interactive audio feature using push buttons and a motion sensor as well as the Bluetooth capability for wireless A.I. interaction using programs like HAL or Voice Attack for pre-scripted interaction.
In this thread I'll be focusing on the new mods as the others have been covered here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=56347
After looking at the recording module from Electronics123 and researching it a bit, I just had to give this concept a try.
This is the unit I will be incorporating into Eva...
http://www.electronics123.com/shop/prod ... ation-5322
More info on the unit and my review here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 23#p861023
I won't be using the light sensor or the small speaker that came with it, but I will be using the PIR motion sensor and the 4 buttons.
Alright, so here's the basic plan for the button and PIR sensor locations.
With a little testing I found that the motion sensor works well with just a small 1/4" diameter hole in the MQ. The hole will limit the angle of view which is a good thing. You'll have to be in front of her and within about 4' to activate the sensor. Since she is primarily a "from behind" girl that will keep the sensor from going off all the time hopefully. The hole will be located right below the choker so I'm hoping it won't look too out of place.
The buttons will be located under each nipple, at the pubic area and at the end of the Fleshlight adapter.
Silicone nipples will cover the buttons and I'll need to make a silicone "mound" to cover the pubic button, maybe with a little cameltoe shape also. So I'll need to create a mold for that similar to the nipple mold. One issue that needed to be solved was how and where to locate the audio module so that it could be accessed for repairs/replacement and also to be able to replace batteries. I didn't really want to have any access panels or doors that would show if possible. I thought about putting everything in the head, but then there would be too many wires running through the neck, so as it turned out the best location was to have the module in the neck just below the joint. The small form factor of the module made that possible. This way the only wire going through the neck is the 3.5mm cable to the speaker.
The next issue was how to make everything accessible and also to allow access to the USB port so the board can be programmed without removing it. The solution was to have a removable neck pin with the audio components attached to it. So to change batteries or replace the board, you simply remove the 3 screws and lift the neck pin out. The USB port can accessed without removing the pin, so you'd just need to remove the head to program the board.
One other problem was how to keep the head easy to remove and have it be separate and untethered for storage.
By having a 3.5mm coupling in the center hole of the neck pin, this allows the head to be unplugged when it's removed.
The coupling is not shown this diagram, but it will be epoxied into the center hole... The new adapter design will have a 5" extension giving a total 6" (+/-7" including front of sleeve).
A button will be mounted to the cap with a thin plastic gasket to protect it and seal the adapter end.
I think a couple layers of freezer bag plastic would work for the gasket. I'm hoping that the printed sleeve plug will depress the button when one thrusts. Need to test this out.
The adapter also will be installed flush with the MQ surface instead of with the overlapping flanges.
This may be a bit more difficult to install but will make the finishing work much easier hopefully. This may seem a little insane, but I wanted to pull out all the stops on this one so my apologies for going a little nuts on the detail, lol.
Here's the whole layout showing all the different components and where they can be obtained (if purchased).
The leg cap parts (10 pcs.) are not shown as they are still being printed... 1. 808 Thump Bluetooth speaker.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/808-Thump-Por ... r/40587578
2. Printed audio compartment (2 pcs.)
Lid requires 2 - 1/16" x 1/2" neodymium disc magnets.
3. Printed neck joint socket (2 pcs.)
Requires stack of 3 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers
4. Printed neck joint pin.
Requires 4 - 1/16" x 1/2" neodymium disc magnets.
5. Printed neck flange for pin.
Requires 3 - #8 x 32 stainless steel hex nuts epoxied in recess.
6. 1/16" x 1/2" diameter neodymium disc magnets. 6 required for project.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D81-N52
7. 3.5mm audio cable coupling. This will be epoxied into center hole in neck pin.
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.p ... ail&p=5793
8. Printed chassis for mounting electronics.
Requires 3 - #6 pan head sheet metal screws.
9. Audio recording module with push buttons/sensors.
http://www.electronics123.com/shop/prod ... ation-5322
The small speaker that came with it will be removed.
More info and review of the module here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 23#p861023
10. PIR motion sensor (included with #9).
11. 3.5mm audio cable 18" (2 required).
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.p ... ail&p=4531
12. Printed shoulder joint pin. Goes over existing arm hook.
Requires 2 - #6 x 1-1/2" pan head sheet metal screws and 2- 4mm flat washers.
Also requires stack of 3 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers.
13. Printed shoulder joint socket (2 pcs.)
Requires stack of 3 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers.
14. 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers. 15 required for project.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_13898-37672-350 ... er+washers
15. 3/16" x 1" diameter neodymium magnet (2 required).
Mounts to shoulder pin with #10 flat head sheet metal screw.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail. ... -P&cat=173
16. Printed nipple mold.
More on this here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=68569
17. Silicone nipples.
18. Printed Fleshlight adapter cap & sleeve plug.
Hopefully the sleeve plug will press the button to activate the audio.
The plug could be made different lengths as needed. We'll see how/if this works.
Cap requires 4 - #6 pan head sheet metal screws.
19. 5" Printed adapter extension.
20. Printed Fleshlight adapter (2 pcs.)
21. Printed snap-on adapter hole cover (2 pcs.)
22. Printed snap-on magnet retainer for leg joint.
23. 1/16" x 3/4" diameter neodymium magnets for leg joint (8 required).
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DC1-N52
24. Rubber grip pads for leg joints (8 required).
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1 ... /203661152
25. Wire splice connectors.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electro ... /202204310
26. 22 GA hookup wire for extending leads on module.
https://www.radioshack.com/products/ul- ... 5717682885
Whew that was nuts. Well that's all for now.
Next thing is to start getting buttons installed and wires pulled through the neck while she's all opened up.
Stay tuned for more.
She'll have all the mods of the previous Evas but this one will include an interactive audio feature using push buttons and a motion sensor as well as the Bluetooth capability for wireless A.I. interaction using programs like HAL or Voice Attack for pre-scripted interaction.
In this thread I'll be focusing on the new mods as the others have been covered here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=56347
After looking at the recording module from Electronics123 and researching it a bit, I just had to give this concept a try.
This is the unit I will be incorporating into Eva...
http://www.electronics123.com/shop/prod ... ation-5322
More info on the unit and my review here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 23#p861023
I won't be using the light sensor or the small speaker that came with it, but I will be using the PIR motion sensor and the 4 buttons.
Alright, so here's the basic plan for the button and PIR sensor locations.
With a little testing I found that the motion sensor works well with just a small 1/4" diameter hole in the MQ. The hole will limit the angle of view which is a good thing. You'll have to be in front of her and within about 4' to activate the sensor. Since she is primarily a "from behind" girl that will keep the sensor from going off all the time hopefully. The hole will be located right below the choker so I'm hoping it won't look too out of place.
The buttons will be located under each nipple, at the pubic area and at the end of the Fleshlight adapter.
Silicone nipples will cover the buttons and I'll need to make a silicone "mound" to cover the pubic button, maybe with a little cameltoe shape also. So I'll need to create a mold for that similar to the nipple mold. One issue that needed to be solved was how and where to locate the audio module so that it could be accessed for repairs/replacement and also to be able to replace batteries. I didn't really want to have any access panels or doors that would show if possible. I thought about putting everything in the head, but then there would be too many wires running through the neck, so as it turned out the best location was to have the module in the neck just below the joint. The small form factor of the module made that possible. This way the only wire going through the neck is the 3.5mm cable to the speaker.
The next issue was how to make everything accessible and also to allow access to the USB port so the board can be programmed without removing it. The solution was to have a removable neck pin with the audio components attached to it. So to change batteries or replace the board, you simply remove the 3 screws and lift the neck pin out. The USB port can accessed without removing the pin, so you'd just need to remove the head to program the board.
One other problem was how to keep the head easy to remove and have it be separate and untethered for storage.
By having a 3.5mm coupling in the center hole of the neck pin, this allows the head to be unplugged when it's removed.
The coupling is not shown this diagram, but it will be epoxied into the center hole... The new adapter design will have a 5" extension giving a total 6" (+/-7" including front of sleeve).
A button will be mounted to the cap with a thin plastic gasket to protect it and seal the adapter end.
I think a couple layers of freezer bag plastic would work for the gasket. I'm hoping that the printed sleeve plug will depress the button when one thrusts. Need to test this out.
The adapter also will be installed flush with the MQ surface instead of with the overlapping flanges.
This may be a bit more difficult to install but will make the finishing work much easier hopefully. This may seem a little insane, but I wanted to pull out all the stops on this one so my apologies for going a little nuts on the detail, lol.
Here's the whole layout showing all the different components and where they can be obtained (if purchased).
The leg cap parts (10 pcs.) are not shown as they are still being printed... 1. 808 Thump Bluetooth speaker.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/808-Thump-Por ... r/40587578
2. Printed audio compartment (2 pcs.)
Lid requires 2 - 1/16" x 1/2" neodymium disc magnets.
3. Printed neck joint socket (2 pcs.)
Requires stack of 3 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers
4. Printed neck joint pin.
Requires 4 - 1/16" x 1/2" neodymium disc magnets.
5. Printed neck flange for pin.
Requires 3 - #8 x 32 stainless steel hex nuts epoxied in recess.
6. 1/16" x 1/2" diameter neodymium disc magnets. 6 required for project.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D81-N52
7. 3.5mm audio cable coupling. This will be epoxied into center hole in neck pin.
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.p ... ail&p=5793
8. Printed chassis for mounting electronics.
Requires 3 - #6 pan head sheet metal screws.
9. Audio recording module with push buttons/sensors.
http://www.electronics123.com/shop/prod ... ation-5322
The small speaker that came with it will be removed.
More info and review of the module here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 23#p861023
10. PIR motion sensor (included with #9).
11. 3.5mm audio cable 18" (2 required).
http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.p ... ail&p=4531
12. Printed shoulder joint pin. Goes over existing arm hook.
Requires 2 - #6 x 1-1/2" pan head sheet metal screws and 2- 4mm flat washers.
Also requires stack of 3 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers.
13. Printed shoulder joint socket (2 pcs.)
Requires stack of 3 - 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers.
14. 5/16" x 1-1/2" fender washers. 15 required for project.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_13898-37672-350 ... er+washers
15. 3/16" x 1" diameter neodymium magnet (2 required).
Mounts to shoulder pin with #10 flat head sheet metal screw.
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail. ... -P&cat=173
16. Printed nipple mold.
More on this here: http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=68569
17. Silicone nipples.
18. Printed Fleshlight adapter cap & sleeve plug.
Hopefully the sleeve plug will press the button to activate the audio.
The plug could be made different lengths as needed. We'll see how/if this works.
Cap requires 4 - #6 pan head sheet metal screws.
19. 5" Printed adapter extension.
20. Printed Fleshlight adapter (2 pcs.)
21. Printed snap-on adapter hole cover (2 pcs.)
22. Printed snap-on magnet retainer for leg joint.
23. 1/16" x 3/4" diameter neodymium magnets for leg joint (8 required).
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DC1-N52
24. Rubber grip pads for leg joints (8 required).
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1 ... /203661152
25. Wire splice connectors.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electro ... /202204310
26. 22 GA hookup wire for extending leads on module.
https://www.radioshack.com/products/ul- ... 5717682885
Whew that was nuts. Well that's all for now.
Next thing is to start getting buttons installed and wires pulled through the neck while she's all opened up.
Stay tuned for more.