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TPE Doll Storage

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TPE Doll Storage

Post by DollAfficionado »

TPE Owners,

Please post any recommendations for storage of your TPE dolls.

I am trying to find a snap-closed, mostly air-tight container in which I can store my new Macy-style doll when she arrives.

BD posts the doll's height as 4'5"; however, how tall is the doll when laying flat when the head is removed? I do not want to purchase an excessively long container, but I do want a container in which she can lay down fully extended with the head removed. The ideal container would also have just enough width and height for the doll without a lot of wasted space. I have a great hiding place planned for this doll, but I have to be careful to get as small of a container as possible in order to make the hiding spot work. I would rather not have to hide the doll, but there will be times when it is necessary.

I know that the doll can be stored in her original box, and I will do this in the short-term; however, I would like to eventually get something that offers better durability and protection while being as compact as possible.

D.A.
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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by tmech »

I have searched for plastic storage boxes but haven't found any that are longer than 43" but let us know if you find one.

Consider whether the plastic would be chemically reactive to the TPE. You may want to check with the makes on this. Use foam and cloth in any case.

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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by Obin »

This looks like an excellent method.

http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 48#p603248
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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by DollAfficionado »

This rubbermaid container from Home Depot looks like it could be an excellent storage container, and it only costs $21.97

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-5 ... /100673965
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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by DollAfficionado »

I found that the Rubbermaid container in my last post has significantly smaller interior dimensions, so it would not work for Macy doll storage.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/stora ... 3-1-2-gray

This container seems more ideally suited for storage of a Macy-style doll; however, it costs much more - about $100 when you add on the lid. It does look like an excellent long-term solution. The interior bottom length is 45 inches. For a 53 inch doll, the head would have to be removed prior to storage, and the legs may have to be stored slightly upwards at the knees with a small pillow used for support. Definitely no wasted space, but it would be a tight fit. There should still be enough leftover space for plastic bags full of your doll's clothing and accessories.

I have done a lot of searching and this looks like the best durable container available to store a Macy doll. Unless I find a better option, I am going to try one of these and let everyone know how it works. Even if it doesn't work for the doll, there is still plenty of other household items that I could store in it.

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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by LWhisperer »

Some members have been looking for a solid, lockable tpe doll storage option. Rubbermaid does make a 44" lockable Action something or other. But the lock hole is small. And they also have some outdoor patio furniture cushion storage units in various sizes that are doublewalled, weatherproof, and lockable as well. You can check the Home Depot website for them.

I have a gf that doesn't care, but also snooper relatives that stay over occasionally. Here's the route I took.

Tractor Supply Company makes numerous diamond plate aluminum truck tool boxes. Key lock, double pistoned hinged lid. 3 year warranty. Replacement pistons available in store. I chose item #1091428. Its an 11.15 cubic foot 56" portable aluminum storage chest. Dimensions are 56" x19"x19". The chest was $211 out the door, and big enough to store the doll without having to remove the head every time you go to put her away. There's enough room inside to completely line with memory foam on the sides, and a double layer of 4" memory foam on the bottom. Then I'll find a nice silk, faux silk, velvet, or velour fabric to wrap around the foam pieces before I attach the sides.
I've also decided to drill a hole in the upper rear of the storage box for my next custom trick. There's a ridge that runs lengthwise across the back of the box 10" up from the bottom. There's also a 2.25" ledge on the upper outside rear of the box. While the box body is 19" wide, the lid is 17.5" wide, hangs over the front by an inch. (Also note that the interior opening is 14.5x55, in case you were wondering.) The lid and outer ledge was designed so that the box can be flush against a wall, and the lid can be opened completely, without pulling it away from the wall. Note however, that due to the pistons that will support the lid while opened (nicely, I might add) they keep the lid from opening the full 90 degrees. I haven't decided yet if the pistons are more of a help or a pain in the ass because of the lessened room for opening. Getting rid of them might be the better option to provide a full 90 degree opening, and easier access to put the doll in.
Ok....to the point, now that some background is out of the way. I'm going to install a full sized electric blanket in the storage box. Its going to start at the top of the front wall, behind the front foam and cover layer. Then be Doubled between the two layers of 4" foam on the bottom layer. Then come up the back wall, again behind the foam and cover layer. But then the last 22" or so will be exposed to cover the doll. Why not lay the doll directly on the blanket, because the more direct heat will be more effective, you ask? Because you don't want compression marks from the wires in the blanket to mess up your doll while its in storage. I feel that the blanket turned on the highest setting within the confined space will be effective enough.

I picked up a full size Sunbeam Imperial Plush heated blanket at Walmart for $60. Ultrasoft rating. 10 heat settings. 10 hour auto off. Its 72"x84". Because of this, I can go 6" up each side as well. But note that 4" of that will be eaten up by the top layer of foam. If any of you do this, get the queen size blanket, so you have side coverage as well. This one was the only size they had today, so I got it.

Ok, the inner ledge across the back is perfect for installing the controller. No drilling for it. I'll use Velcro for that, and 3M Command hooks to hold up the wire. The only hole drilled into the box will be on the right rear on the vertical wall, beneath the lid, but above the outer ledge. Invisible, unless someone is looking for it or traces the cord back to it. It only needs to be big enough to slip the plug end of the cord out the hole to plug in the blanket. When not in use, pull the cord inside, wrap around the command hooks. Oh, you can also plug the hole with a black rubber stopper that you can find at auto and home stores.

A smart guy like you could plug this into a cheap timer on the wall, have the blanket switched on, (remember, 10 hours of heat) and have the doll cozy when you get home from work.

Why did I go this route? You DO realize I'm insane, right? The Malm underbed idea was cool. But not lockable. And I'd have to raise my bed another 5" to fit those foot high drawers beneath it. My bed is a custom double posted wrap style bed. Its gorgeous. Anything I put under those 8 posts will look like hell, and my GF would need a ladder to climb into bed. My box spring is a foot high. My mattress a foot high. And I have a 4" foam topper on top. So, while the nifty underbed storage is ideal for some, it just didn't fit how my room is equipped, and I like the metal box security option.

Now, as far as that goes... I chose the diamond plate in gloss black, not silver. So its not quite the eyesore it could be. And it stows in the walkin closet beneath the hanging clothes rather nicely, at 19" high. Its rectangular, and doesn't have the side ledges to mount it across the width of a truck bed, so it doesn't look too, too out of place in the house in a closet.

D.A. Tractor Supply also offers a very sturdy 46" lockable plastic storage box. Big enough for the 135cm with the head off, I think. Perfect rectangle. Double walled. ATTACHED, HINGED LID. And the best part...not one but TWO metal hasps with big latches for two padlocks. Its heavy duty as hell, and puts ALL other plastic units to shame. $99. Please check this out before you purchase the others you've seen. You could probably drop this off a truck doin 55 and only scuff it a bit as it bounced down the road behind you. I thought about getting it first.....
But, being insane, I have a tendency for overkill. And I'm not going to piss around taking the dolls head off all the time.

Hope this helps everyone...or someone!!

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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by LWhisperer »

My last bit of advice for any storage container that you decide on. Lowe's, Home Depot, and many other stores sell the grey, split, hollow foam tubes meant to insulate water pipes. (They look like hollow, split pool noodles.) Get some. Cut them to length, and slip them over the top of the perimeter of whatever storage container you choose when you are removing the doll from storage or putting her back away.

Keep them handy in your dolls storage container with the doll, BUT STOW THEM SO THEY AREN'T TOUCHING THE DOLL. Find a way to bag them, pouch them, whatever. Legs of pantyhose might work. The foam tubes may be reactive with long term physical contact with the tpe. They're made cheap and for a singular purpose. I'll be using them to cover the latches on my uber chest so I don't inadvertently scrape or injure my doll.

Think your storage through. A little proaction will go a long way. If at all possible, stow the doll close to where you'll be using her. Best is in the same room. I'm not a carry the doll down the hall and to the bathroom guy anymore. I have a rubber sheet that I hang off the side of the bed and across the carpet, hang the doll over the side, and prop her legs up on a bureau that's the same height as the bed. I use a bucket of sanitizer water and a turkey baster, and let the water flow from the doll back into the bucket. Any overspill goes onto the rubber sheet.

I'm ocd about this because much of the damage I've caused to my dolls over the years has been by bumping them off walls and furniture on the way to and from the bathroom to clean them. Not good. There's no faster way to ruin your afterglow than damaging your babe on cleanup. It'll put the kibosh on your good night, and every time you see the damage from there to infinty, you'll be kicking your own butt.

Dolls are heavy and awkward. Rubber sheets and cleaning supplies are not. You're never going to care about bumping your cleaning bucket off the wall. Keep the bucket, the baster, the sanitizer, the rubber sheet, and your wash cloths in the bucket in the hall or bathroom closet. If anyone snoops through your cleaning supplies and questions you, shut em up by telling them the baster is good for prostate cleansing. :wink:

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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by DollAfficionado »

Sanity is overrated.

-------------

The Mad Hatter: Have I gone mad?

[Alice checks Hatter's temperature]

Alice Kingsley: I'm afraid so. You're entirely bonkers. But I'll tell you a secret. All the best people are.

-------------

Thank you for the awesome information, LWhisperer. You are awesome! This is exactly the kind of information for which I and many others here have been seeking.

This is a lot to think about. I will definitely check out the Tractor Supply Store for their boxes.

D.A.
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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by DollAfficionado »

I found a Tractor Supply Company store within easy driving distance, so I am going to try the $99 toolbox since I won't need to have it shipped. I will then get some memory foam from my local Wal-Mart to give the doll a soft place to lay down. Even if I get tired of repeatedly removing and attaching the head and decide to upgrade later, I can still use this box for other storage, so it is a win-win purchase. The other box I was looking at had no locking mechanism and it costs a lot more, so thank you for saving me from buying that one. I really like the double lock feature on the $99 toolbox; it will be really important if snoops do happen to find my hiding place.
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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by Obin »

DollAfficionado wrote:I found a Tractor Supply Company store within easy driving distance, so I am going to try the $99 toolbox since I won't need to have it shipped. I will then get some memory foam from my local Wal-Mart to give the doll a soft place to lay down. Even if I get tired of repeatedly removing and attaching the head and decide to upgrade later, I can still use this box for other storage, so it is a win-win purchase. The other box I was looking at had no locking mechanism and it costs a lot more, so thank you for saving me from buying that one. I really like the double lock feature on the $99 toolbox; it will be really important if snoops do happen to find my hiding place.
I guess if the snoops ask for the key, you can tell them you can't find it. :)

There's a good chance many will find the information in this thread useful.
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[thumb]http://dollforum.com/forum/download/file.php?id=196256&t=1[/thumb]


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http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=196&t=74121


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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by sture »

Why not just keep the doll in the same box as she came in?
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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by mandingo »

LWhisperer wrote:Some members have been looking for a solid, lockable tpe doll storage option. Rubbermaid does make a 44" lockable Action something or other. But the lock hole is small. And they also have some outdoor patio furniture cushion storage units in various sizes that are doublewalled, weatherproof, and lockable as well. You can check the Home Depot website for them.

I have a gf that doesn't care, but also snooper relatives that stay over occasionally. Here's the route I took.

Tractor Supply Company makes numerous diamond plate aluminum truck tool boxes. Key lock, double pistoned hinged lid. 3 year warranty. Replacement pistons available in store. I chose item #1091428. Its an 11.15 cubic foot 56" portable aluminum storage chest. Dimensions are 56" x19"x19". The chest was $211 out the door, and big enough to store the doll without having to remove the head every time you go to put her away. There's enough room inside to completely line with memory foam on the sides, and a double layer of 4" memory foam on the bottom. Then I'll find a nice silk, faux silk, velvet, or velour fabric to wrap around the foam pieces before I attach the sides.
I've also decided to drill a hole in the upper rear of the storage box for my next custom trick. There's a ridge that runs lengthwise across the back of the box 10" up from the bottom. There's also a 2.25" ledge on the upper outside rear of the box. While the box body is 19" wide, the lid is 17.5" wide, hangs over the front by an inch. (Also note that the interior opening is 14.5x55, in case you were wondering.) The lid and outer ledge was designed so that the box can be flush against a wall, and the lid can be opened completely, without pulling it away from the wall. Note however, that due to the pistons that will support the lid while opened (nicely, I might add) they keep the lid from opening the full 90 degrees. I haven't decided yet if the pistons are more of a help or a pain in the ass because of the lessened room for opening. Getting rid of them might be the better option to provide a full 90 degree opening, and easier access to put the doll in.
Ok....to the point, now that some background is out of the way. I'm going to install a full sized electric blanket in the storage box. Its going to start at the top of the front wall, behind the front foam and cover layer. Then be Doubled between the two layers of 4" foam on the bottom layer. Then come up the back wall, again behind the foam and cover layer. But then the last 22" or so will be exposed to cover the doll. Why not lay the doll directly on the blanket, because the more direct heat will be more effective, you ask? Because you don't want compression marks from the wires in the blanket to mess up your doll while its in storage. I feel that the blanket turned on the highest setting within the confined space will be effective enough.

I picked up a full size Sunbeam Imperial Plush heated blanket at Walmart for $60. Ultrasoft rating. 10 heat settings. 10 hour auto off. Its 72"x84". Because of this, I can go 6" up each side as well. But note that 4" of that will be eaten up by the top layer of foam. If any of you do this, get the queen size blanket, so you have side coverage as well. This one was the only size they had today, so I got it.

Ok, the inner ledge across the back is perfect for installing the controller. No drilling for it. I'll use Velcro for that, and 3M Command hooks to hold up the wire. The only hole drilled into the box will be on the right rear on the vertical wall, beneath the lid, but above the outer ledge. Invisible, unless someone is looking for it or traces the cord back to it. It only needs to be big enough to slip the plug end of the cord out the hole to plug in the blanket. When not in use, pull the cord inside, wrap around the command hooks. Oh, you can also plug the hole with a black rubber stopper that you can find at auto and home stores.

A smart guy like you could plug this into a cheap timer on the wall, have the blanket switched on, (remember, 10 hours of heat) and have the doll cozy when you get home from work.

Why did I go this route? You DO realize I'm insane, right? The Malm underbed idea was cool. But not lockable. And I'd have to raise my bed another 5" to fit those foot high drawers beneath it. My bed is a custom double posted wrap style bed. Its gorgeous. Anything I put under those 8 posts will look like hell, and my GF would need a ladder to climb into bed. My box spring is a foot high. My mattress a foot high. And I have a 4" foam topper on top. So, while the nifty underbed storage is ideal for some, it just didn't fit how my room is equipped, and I like the metal box security option.

Now, as far as that goes... I chose the diamond plate in gloss black, not silver. So its not quite the eyesore it could be. And it stows in the walkin closet beneath the hanging clothes rather nicely, at 19" high. Its rectangular, and doesn't have the side ledges to mount it across the width of a truck bed, so it doesn't look too, too out of place in the house in a closet.

D.A. Tractor Supply also offers a very sturdy 46" lockable plastic storage box. Big enough for the 135cm with the head off, I think. Perfect rectangle. Double walled. ATTACHED, HINGED LID. And the best part...not one but TWO metal hasps with big latches for two padlocks. Its heavy duty as hell, and puts ALL other plastic units to shame. $99. Please check this out before you purchase the others you've seen. You could probably drop this off a truck doin 55 and only scuff it a bit as it bounced down the road behind you. I thought about getting it first.....
But, being insane, I have a tendency for overkill. And I'm not going to piss around taking the dolls head off all the time.

Hope this helps everyone...or someone!!
Thanks for the advise Lwhisper I know what to look for when I get home!
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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by LWhisperer »

D.A.
While that box, being lockable, looks like a good deal at that price point, I want you to think about this. I measured the dolls head this morning. The long neck recesses into the head. There's only about 5"to51/4" of actual head length, so to speak. Subtract that from the 53.125" total length of the doll, and you're looking at needing to bend her a bit to buy acreage in a 46"box. Think hard about this before you buy.

If you only have 46" of length space in your hiding spot, then you might have to go with this. But I don't see it as the best option. Longer/lower/wider is better to me.

I spent a whole day driving all over creation in my town yesterday. Only a day. I found what looks like a great solution to me. Is it perfect? Maybe the lid opening could be wider. But I made sure the interior space was big enough to cushion on all sides. Manufacturing defects, burrs, spurs, injection mold edges, all can be sharp. That's why best to line the interior, and have room to do it.

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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by DollAfficionado »

LWhisperer,

My ideal hiding place is 47 inches long, so the 46" box would fit it nicely into the niche. So with the head removed, the body's frame is reduced to 48", so I would have to buy an extra ~4 inches (2 for the doll and 2 for lesser thickness wall padding). My original thought was to use the foam to build a "rise" at the bottom of the box such that the knees can bend over this rise in order to shorten the doll's effective length by a few inches. All parts of the doll would then still be laying on foam. Does this sound like a plan that would work?

I do have a backup hiding place available, but it suffers many disadvantages. It is much farther away from the room where I would be using the doll, and it is an inherently less secure location. The 46" box has some similarities to other boxes I own, so I could exploit this camouflage aspect.

I am going to buy one of these $99 boxes for the 47" hiding place anyway. Even if I don't store dolls and sexual items in it, I can still use the hiding place for some other valuables that I don't want people to find when visiting such as my $5K+ in billiard cues and other accessories. Ideally, this will work out for the doll, but the box would not be wasted if it doesn't work out so it is probably at least worth the attempt.

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Re: TPE Doll Storage

Post by LWhisperer »

Whew. Ok, D.A, I see where you're coming from. Good timing. I just got out of a meeting, and have a few. So, let's look at it as how can we fit her in the box being the least "bent up", per se. We know a vertical fetal position is out. What is best for the doll is to not have any part of appendages extended or contracted too much. Its not the skeleton we're worried about here. It's the tpe being as close to "neutral" as possible, meaning not overly extended or contracted.

Samarai has been keeping his Vi in a sitting position on a cushioned chair from I think day 1 for him. Her butt isn't showing any signs of compression, despite most of the dolls weight being on it. We might want to exploit this. However, I have two observations.

First, he moves her and plays with her a lot. Nearly every day. That could be his saving grace.

Second, he has only worried about her bum.That's the tree. If I were him, I'd be just as concerned about the front of the hips being contracted, the bum being extended, the back of the knees being contracted, the front of the knees being extended - because this is what is happening when the hips and knees are bent to sit. There is the forest. The doll was molded in a flat or zero degree positive/negative posture.

Are you following me so far? Those bends are in perfect perameters for the skeleton. However, extended periods of time with portions of the tpe stretched and other portions of the tpe contracted could, in my opinion, lead to disaster down the road.

If you've ever seen a doll just hemorrhage from being extended in a position too long, you'd immediately recognize my concern. Some tpe formulas can stretch 300%, which is amazing. But no pliable material, whether tpe or silicone is made to do that for an extended period. Eventually, there will be tearing. Its a sheer factor, and some genius somewhere has better answers about it than me.

Ok, lets think about those sex play triangular pillows for a moment. The "wedges", know what I mean? What if you were to put an even 4" memory foam pad on the bottom of the box as a "base", first. Then think about a wedge on each side of the box, higher end at the outside, tapering to the middle. Still with me?

Using a 45" "baseline" as to the length of the interior of the box, lets say we need to "buy" 6", for safety's sake. 3" on each side, right? Hmmm...look at geometry and triangles. I'm terrible at math, but I know there's a formula for this. We need to figure it out. Somebody, help!!
:D

Something in my feeble brain is telling me a 3" "rise" in angle from the center to the end is going to buy me an inch and a half on each side. A four inch should buy me two on each side. Maybe??? I'm in a car with no pen and paper. And I need to think this thru.

The gist of what I'm driving at is a moderate bend at the waist up from the waist to the head, and up from the waist to the feet should buy us our length. Now, we need to realize that waist of the doll probably isn't in the exact middle. Its where the skeleton bends that will be our guide. So the two triangles of foam you'll need to cut out will NOT be identical. And you don't have to cut the foam ahead of time. Just have it on hand when you get the doll. Then bend her, put her in, and measure. Make your two triangles to fit. And then think about "sculpting out" just a little bit where her ass is to try to even out the pressure so the weight is distributed.

Damn. That might work.

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