Joint Tightening for Nony.

[RainLover]

Would Matt/Bronwen please comment on whether they've already fixed the shoulder issue in the current production?

Mytime: Only 1,000 or 10,000 movements? If the ship's captain or train engineer in your analogy had so little MTBF, he would have sunk or fallen off the tracks shortly after launch.

[mytime]

RainLover wrote:

Mytime: Only 1,000 or 10,000 movements? If the ship's captain or train engineer in your analogy had so little MTBF, he would have sunk or fallen off the tracks shortly after launch.

RainLover, with 10,000 movements I have a doll in mind not a ship, I think 10,000 movements is quite a lot having a silicone doll in mind.
I think however that the shaft will allow much more movements, while the U shaped "hinge", the second pivoting axis, may not due to that here is some more wear.


I don't really apreciate your language/and the bath icon, I try to help to solve something, that made me cry a little (Muzza's Nony failed) I would apreciate that you behave, or even better come up with a better design.

Mytime & Helen & Carmen

[EddieFr]

...another alternative for stabilizing and maintaining uniform movement of the limb parts, might be to insert a small, hi-tension spring over the bolt, and behind each of two serrated, or ratcheting, carbon steel washers. One small spring on each side, forcing the two ratcheting washers together with a predetermined torque or preload. The serrations would also help hold the limbs in position. As wear occurs over time, the springs compensate, and keep the same amount of friction at the joint. That might help the NordLock system function in a moving part, as opposed to the fixed idea for which they were designed.

EdF.

[mytime]

EddiFr wrote

...another alternative for stabilizing and maintaining uniform movement of the limb parts, might be to insert a small, hi-tension spring over the bolt, and behind each of two serrated, or ratcheting, carbon steel washers. One small spring on each side, forcing the two ratcheting washers together with a predetermined torque or preload. The serrations would also help hold the limbs in position. As wear occurs over time, the springs compensate, and keep the same amount of friction at the joint. That might help the NordLock system function in a moving part, as opposed to the fixed idea for which they were designed.

EdF.

Thats at least a lot easyer with the existing LD skeleton, than the thing I designed, I put it here because I think it may fit due to that LD uses round tubing but I have designed it with a new (mini) skeleton in mind and not an existing one.

Mytime & Helen & Carmen

[RainLover]

RainLover, with 10,000 movements I have a doll in mind not a ship, I think 10,000 movements is quite a lot having a silicone doll in mind.

Not if the owner plans to pose the doll a lot, as I intend to, as a photographer's model. Frankly, I think even those who only have sex their doll would find themselves moving his or her limbs more than they think. I think we take for granted how much limbs move. I think we need to be looking at an MTBF that is another order of magnitude higher or more. 300,000 would be nice. A lifetime of movements! That would be on par with the MTBF in a pro camera shutter.

I don't really apreciate your language/and the bath icon, I try to help to solve something, that made me cry a little (Muzza's Nony failed) I would apreciate that you behave, or even better come up with a better design.

Maybe I'm not submitting drawings, but I have been trying to help. Have you sent your drawings with explanations to any of the manufacturers?

[mytime]

Hi RainLover,

Off topic from the original Muzza Nony joint.

What I did was put this simple drawing here of a shoulder joint I have in mind for my minidoll and might be applicable on the LD that is not so difficult to manufacture, and I thought this is clear but it seems not to be clear, though I can answer questions on it.
For the big bolt one could often buy such one with a hole drilled through and else one could, if carefully, drill a hole trough a big bolt with a drill press.
The turning thing inside the shoulder tube that runs trough the bolt that is drilled through, is more difficult to make, I think a lathe is needed to make that thing with ease, though I think it can be grinded / sanded from a bolt if one has patience, and then tap thread on the end.
The other parts in it are not difficult to make.

Keep in mind that 300 K movements is a lot!, even for photographing a doll, you don't photograph the doll every day. But todays dolls become loose from photography as I know from e.g. Stacy.
I have a very good joint in my mind that can do what you want (ever lasting friction probably maybe even with that 300 K movements), if it works, it could be for the doll, what the differential is for a car. I want to try to develop that one with a partner, he will know how the joint works too. So if I might pass before that joint is finished the knowledge will survive. But such joint will contain more expensive parts and is expensive to manufacture. It will raise the cost of a doll a lot, it may double her price. Not wanting to boast, but a Rolls Royce silverghost was expensive too but it was the first thing called car that did last. On the other hand, the joints /skeleton may "age out" the doll (silicone may wears faster than the joints), latter other makes came up with relyable stuff for lower prices. And it can be that most of us are better off with a little less perfection as in todays dolls for a lot less money.
I don't know if I make it, manufacturing that but I think its worth the attempt. I need first to learn a lot and build a minidoll this will use the simpler joints like the one I drawed here, though I think its still an elegant design for a joint for a doll skeleton.

I understand you now, I may have taken the subject too seriously, no hard feelings.

Mytime & Helen & Carmen

[muzza]

LD JOINT TIGHTENING - POSTSCRIPT.

Whilst some tightness was restored to Nony's joints the outcome was not very satisfactory.
Two things.

First. Unless the tightness of rotation about the axis of a limb is sufficient to hold against gravity then any tightening of the joint in bending is of extremely limited value.

Second. If one does find it necessary to tighten the joints then one needs to tighten up the nuts, bolts and screws very, very tight indeed and then some. The lever principle and the weight of silicone makes dollies limbs very powerful levers.

Don't do it unless you absolutely need to.

Cheers

muzza

[Musician]

Thanks for the pointers, Muzza.

I'm sorry that you had to go through it, but we appreciate your sharing your experience.

[blackbear]

LD JOINT TIGHTENING - POSTSCRIPT.

Whilst some tightness was restored to Nony's joints the outcome was not very satisfactory.
Two things.

First. Unless the tightness of rotation about the axis of a limb is sufficient to hold against gravity then any tightening of the joint in bending is of extremely limited value.

Second. If one does find it necessary to tighten the joints then one needs to tighten up the nuts, bolts and screws very, very tight indeed and then some. The lever principle and the weight of silicone makes dollies limbs very powerful levers.

Don't do it unless you absolutely need to.

Cheers

muzza

I think, that the buyer should explain PRECISELY And clearly to the manufacturer that is desirable and that is not desirable in manufacture of a doll.
My buyer from Austria has precisely explained to me, that joints of a doll should be free and easily move similarly to sleeping women.
It is necessary to imagine precisely that you want from a doll.
Then it is easier to manufacturer to understand the order.

[mytime]

Blackbear wrote

I think, that the buyer should explain PRECISELY And clearly to the manufacturer that is desirable and that is not desirable in manufacture of a doll.
My buyer from Austria has precisely explained to me, that joints of a doll should be free and easily move similarly to sleeping women.
It is necessary to imagine precisely that you want from a doll.
Then it is easier to manufacturer to understand the order.

Yup blackbear that could be right, though makes it bit less easy for the manufacturer.
Some people prefer loose joints.
Other stiff ones.

Stiff ones are great for posing the doll but are the most difficult to achieve, to get them perfect and with ever lasting and be able to adjust the tension stepless, the mechanism I have invented is needed (I'll put drawings of it this evening to a friend to protect it in the case I would die, he may too be able to manufacture a prototype).

Loose ones, some people prefer loose ones for sex, they could be nice in some sexual poses but in other stiff joints are better.


Mytime & Helen & Carmen

[Mechwizard]

Two things.

First. Unless the tightness of rotation about the axis of a limb is sufficient to hold against gravity then any tightening of the joint in bending is of extremely limited value.

Second. If one does find it necessary to tighten the joints then one needs to tighten up the nuts, bolts and screws very, very tight indeed and then some. The lever principle and the weight of silicone makes dollies limbs very powerful levers.

Don't do it unless you absolutely need to.

Cheers

muzza

All valid points. Unless something has gone wrong such as Nony's locked shoulder or Zara's broken hips then avoid surgery. You don't realise just how much weight there is in a doll's limb until you have started working on their joints. A joint that is impossible to turn by hand out of the doll seems to just flop around when connected to the doll's limb, especially the legs.

It was a good effort Muzza, and I understand why you went through what you did. These dolls are worth more than the money that was paid for them.