Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Quote:
"It will be easier to close silicone, at first with silicone glue, and on the top with the repair kit."
Do I need to put the glue just on one side and then leave it to cure and after just try to reduce the scar [if needed] on the top?
Don't really have time during the week, so will get to it over the weekend.
Cheers.
Past waifus: 4Woods AI Doll S+ [160 cm] <][> DollHouse168 KOI [138 cm] <][> WM Doll Riley [100 cm] <][> Beautiful Dolls Judy/Rose [120 cm]
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Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Hi thommyv,thommyv wrote:Got in touch with Miss Benmohad and she has send me replacement parts and a clear sealant [see pic] free of charge straight away.
Quote:
"It will be easier to close silicone, at first with silicone glue, and on the top with the repair kit."
Do I need to put the glue just on one side and then leave it to cure and after just try to reduce the scar [if needed] on the top?
Don't really have time during the week, so will get to it over the weekend.
Cheers.
I've done a sticky on how to proceed.
Take a look here http://dollforum.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 43#p861243
Hope it will help you
SF
Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Anyway, thats a nice guide you have done siliconefun. The idea of glue the silicone in 2 steps sounds good. I will try that next time i need to do repairs.
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Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Hi Amanda__,Amanda__ wrote:Sounds interesting, Doll Story says you should mix the repair kit and 1 component glue, and a moderator says you absolutely cant do that...
Anyway, thats a nice guide you have done siliconefun. The idea of glue the silicone in 2 steps sounds good. I will try that next time i need to do repairs.
I know that it sounds a bit strange but I've had this issue on two of my dolls:
The silicone layers were cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and some evaporating time was allowed.
4woods doll: the original 4woods 2-part repair kit didn't cure on a cut because I first fixed it with RTV-1 silicone (Wacker Elastosil E41). Surgery done on both knee swivel joints, 2013-body. Primer C was applied prior gluing.
Abyss doll: the original Abyss 2-part repair kit didn't cure on a cut because I first fixed it with RTV-1 silicone (provided small silicone pocket). Even Matt McMullen suggested me to not use 2 different silicone types on a cut!!
Interesting fact: the residues from the 2-part repair kit cured well in the mixing cup but not inside the cut.
Usually the RTV-1 as well as the 2-part repair kit starts to bond after some hours (depends on the temperature and the humidity)
It's just a messy job to reopen a cut and to remove uncured silicone residues
SF
Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Tried to drill the top, but it won't go down. What should I get to get it done?
Thanks.
Past waifus: 4Woods AI Doll S+ [160 cm] <][> DollHouse168 KOI [138 cm] <][> WM Doll Riley [100 cm] <][> Beautiful Dolls Judy/Rose [120 cm]
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Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Hi, a file will do it. It's not going to take long and it can be done fairly accurately with time to correct any angular errors as you go. An angle grinder or a fixed grinding wheel will also do it but they take off a lot of material and you need to go very carefully. If you need to go and buy a file get a medium coarse one to take off material quickly and/or a fine one for a finishing cut. If you put the old one in a vice so that you are filing flat you can then put the new one in at the same angle.thommyv wrote:Ok. so after like a hour of frustration I managed to get the broken piece out and the new one in place just to find out that I can't move the arm sideways/up because the metal part is not cut/grinded on the top to allow to movement to happen. Literally FML situation !
Tried to drill the top, but it won't go down. What should I get to get it done?
Thanks.
No doubt someone may have a better idea but this will do it.
Good luck.
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Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
No, Most doll skeletons do NOT use PVC tubes.Nescio50 wrote:Some tubes are PVC to reduce weight. I guess most doll skeletons use PVC tubes for this reason.
If Lyon (Doll Story) does not reply to your email, give them a phone call. Miss Benmohad speaks English.
AFAIK, 4woods and boytoy are the main PVC tube users. I am not sure if any other companies use them.
No TPE dolls use PVC since it would melt in the casting process.
Personally, I am against PVC tubes in dolls because PVC tends to shatter where as steel will often bend first, giving the user a serious heads up that something is going wrong.
Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Not really all that strange. While I dislike PVC's brittleness, its still apparently has more strength then the very little aluminum that was left after the reduction in size to fit inside the pipe, and further reduction due to a hole being drilled into it. Also being the PVC was filled with aluminum, that would have given the PVC ends extra strength.siliconefun wrote:Hi thommyv,
that looks bad and there's no other way to replace the aluminum hinge part who's fixed onto the PVC tube.
It's however a strange fact that a such strong part has been broken in the screw boring
Were the shoulder joints tightened very fast that this dmg occurred or what could be the reason for this???
Although I'm thankful that you share this info and updates in this thread.
SF
Many aluminum alloys also suffer from fatigue, in that every time you stress it, even if way below the ultimate yield value, the strength of the aluminum falls. Eventually the aluminum will snap like shown with less force then it would have taken to bend it when it was new.
Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Agreed, a file should do just fine. or an angle grinder for $20 at most hardware stores.Mondoon wrote:Hi, a file will do it. It's not going to take long and it can be done fairly accurately with time to correct any angular errors as you go. An angle grinder or a fixed grinding wheel will also do it but they take off a lot of material and you need to go very carefully. If you need to go and buy a file get a medium coarse one to take off material quickly and/or a fine one for a finishing cut. If you put the old one in a vice so that you are filing flat you can then put the new one in at the same angle.thommyv wrote:Ok. so after like a hour of frustration I managed to get the broken piece out and the new one in place just to find out that I can't move the arm sideways/up because the metal part is not cut/grinded on the top to allow to movement to happen. Literally FML situation !
Tried to drill the top, but it won't go down. What should I get to get it done?
Thanks.
No doubt someone may have a better idea but this will do it.
Good luck.
Its not critical at all, just do it as best by eye and trial fit, repeat till it fits as desired, taking a little too much off shouldn't harm anything, getting the angle wrong would only cause problems if you slam the arm against its stop hard.
I am rather amazed how little material it appears is around that lower bolt hole where the other one broke however.
PS: One thing not noted in the repair sticky, was use as LITTLE GLUE as possable. you absolutely do not want any flowing out of the cut. smear it in the cut as thin as you can, ideally do 2 passes as shown for the 'deep cut' unless its really thin silicone.
Remember, you can always apply more glue later if it opens up (a toothpick can be used to get glue into the tinyest of cuts if only a little bit of it opens up), you can NOT easily remove excess glue.
I have seen some very ugly repairs from people using wayyy too much glue. Iv never heard anyone complain they didn't use enough glue in their repair.
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Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Hi thommyv,thommyv wrote:Ok. so after like a hour of frustration I managed to get the broken piece out and the new one in place just to find out that I can't move the arm sideways/up because the metal part is not cut/grinded on the top to allow to movement to happen. Literally FML situation !
Tried to drill the top, but it won't go down. What should I get to get it done?
Thanks.
the arm fixation/rotation screw blocks the arm sideways/up movement and needs to be reshaped. Use a file who's the best tool do to it but alternatively you can try this method: take a piece of coarse sanding tissue or paper and fix it on the workbench with nails.
I just cannot understand why they did sent you a such unfinished replacement part
Question: it looks like if the hole is not in a centric position. Was the hole in the part when delivered or did you need to drill it? SF
Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
I just got a MacAllister file set and it goes well.
The hole was pre-drilled SF and there was a small cut on the top of the part, but don't know why it wasn't finished to the angle needed.
The hole position is also designed so there is a bit of free movement to the sides, but it works.
But the fitting for the whole part is insanely tight, had to remove a washer from one side just to get it in.
Hopefully tomorrow I can get to the gluing part.
Cheers
Past waifus: 4Woods AI Doll S+ [160 cm] <][> DollHouse168 KOI [138 cm] <][> WM Doll Riley [100 cm] <][> Beautiful Dolls Judy/Rose [120 cm]
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Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Take your time, don't hassle. The final cut closure will hide the repair and will forget this surgery.
As mentioned only apply a small amount of ShinEtsu on both sides of the cut and work fast. Also immediately remove the residues who comes out of the cut (alcohol works well).
When you've some small tape around you can use this to fix the cut by preparing some pieces at the appropriate length. Put them over the cut without too much tension on the silicone skin, its just to hold the cut until cured.
When there's a small spot who didn't bond after 24 hrs you can reapply some ShinEtsu later to close it.
I'm sure you get it, me and Mia cross the fingers.
SF
Re: Loose right arm, FeelsBadMan
Weird, that bolt hole looks much more like a slot, greatly weakening where it broke on you.. I mean I guess it allows better/easier alignment, but apparently they went a little too far.thommyv wrote:Yeah.
I just got a MacAllister file set and it goes well.
The hole was pre-drilled SF and there was a small cut on the top of the part, but don't know why it wasn't finished to the angle needed.
The hole position is also designed so there is a bit of free movement to the sides, but it works.
But the fitting for the whole part is insanely tight, had to remove a washer from one side just to get it in.
Hopefully tomorrow I can get to the gluing part.
Cheers