It is currently Fri Mar 23, 2018 6:46 am

By visiting this website and viewing the pages within, you accept and agree to be bound by and comply with the Rules Of Conduct and Terms Of Use of this website.

Official TDF Rules & TOS

Please click on either selection to view: Rules Of Conduct | Terms Of Use

 Page 3 of 3 [ 32 posts ]  
Search for:
Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3
 Post subject: Re: Is this a good skeleton for a TPE doll?
PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 2:29 pm 
Doll Advisor
Doll Advisor
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2017 6:32 pm
Posts: 965
Location: the Great White North
Dollstudio wrote:
TPE dolls are on the other end of this pricing range. Customers ask for dolls that cost rather $600 than $1200. Now consider that argument what a established manufacturer considers "commercially impossible" for a doll in the $6000-$8000 range. What could be realistically possible for a doll that costs only a fraction of this in retail?

What we need to understand is that TPE manufacturers are working with absurdly low budgets. 2/3 and recently even 3/4 of the retail price is eaten by shipping, handling and import fees. If a skeleton takes an hour to assemble and adjust, the resulting doll would be unsellable expensive.


Hey Sandro,

That's actually a very fair point, and something i never even considered myself. It explains some manufacturer's reluctant approach to redesigning aspects that have been shown to have weaknesses. I understand it has to be financially viable.

Surely there must be a middle ground to be found somewhere where everybody gets what they wants... even though i do appreciate the very accessible price point of the entry level models.

Mellisa: (BCD wm157 B cup + #124 Cheyenne head)

 AIM Send private message  
 Post subject: Re: Is this a good skeleton for a TPE doll?
PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2017 12:17 am 
Doll Advisor
Doll Advisor
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2017 7:00 pm
Posts: 580
Location: Northwettest
I like that ball joints and more pivot points are being explored. Being a machinist, the subject is double interesting to me. Most ball joints are swaged together, meaning the female side is rolled or pressed over the male side and it is pretty much a permanent connection. The female side can be split, and fashioned into a clamp type config. Ball joints can also be lined with special materials like bearing bronze or hightec plastics like delrin, used in many prosthetics. I have actually done work on these. Without access to the allen screws, adjustable ball joints are useless, and expensive.
I do like the suggestion of blow molded or 3d printed chest cavity, for weight saving and realism, but we have to remember that the silicone or tpe mold has to support the frame, suspended, in center or the mold, for even casting of the fleshy bits. I have only seen a little of the inside of one of the factories, and to me, it looks like a challenge to create a perfect mold every time. They just don't have the infrastructure of, say a modern automobile factory. Its a labor intensive, hands on, craft skill. just have to say, I am glad they keep making thing better, and bringing cost down. Bravo!

To any manufacturers out there, I am available for free consult. I have 30+ years in machining and manufacturing, and would love to help make dolls better!

It is okay to feed the bear! In fact, it is highly recommended! Just be sure to count your fingers afterword.
 Profile Send private message  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 Page 3 of 3 [ 32 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3

Who Is Online

Users browsing this forum: ppp48, Super62 and 12 guests

Chatting users: optical delusion

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum