STAIN PREVENTION 101

[Booty Call Dolls]

Nyoko is not responsible for ruining people's clothing if you do not follow instructions.
She got this text from one of her cousin's owners.

For clothes I run three tests over the course of five days. They must pass all three tests to be approved.
Tests being:
1.) Fabric placed over a test piece with one of my Astrophysics books on it.
Left for three days.
2.) Dampen an area of the clothing and drape it over the TPE test piece and place a 1kg weight on it.
Left to air dry on the TPE with the weight applying pressure and then remains on the TPE test piece for one day.
3.) Dampen an area of the clothing, get a soft white cotton cloth, and iron it into the wet area of the clothing.
Check for color seepage on the white cloth.

If any of these tests fail, the clothing is put through the color fasting process and the testing is repeated.

Color fasting process, 1 article of clothing per container/mixture.
1.) 1 Gallon purified distilled water, chilled if possible.
2.) Mixture of white vinegar and salt. Roughly 1 cup vinegar and 1/4 cup salt per 1 gallon of purified distilled water.
3.) Wash clothing article in cold/cold cycle, no detergent. Air dry, do not put in direct sunlight.
4.) Mix 1 gallon purified distilled water and vinegar+salt mixture in large container or pot, stir mixture thoroughly.
5.) Submerge article of clothing into mixture.
6.) Immediately after submerging, squeeze, ring, press, twist (WITHIN REASON, do not damage the clothing) and otherwise manipulate the fabric to completely saturate it.
7.) Leave soaking in pot/container for 24 hours, stirring/agitating every hour or two.
8.) Remove and ring out excess liquid (again within reason). Liquid will likely be colored/dyed but should eventually "run clear" from the fabric.
9.) Air dry, not in direct sunlight. Sunlight will have a bleaching effect.
10.) Wash normally in a cold/cold cycle with detergent, fabric softener if applicable, and dry on low heat settings or air dry.

*: Obviously do not use a washer/dryer if the article of clothing is not made to be used in the machines. IE: Hand wash only.

--

I go with the purified distilled water because distilled water has all the minerals and such removed from it, since they have a much higher boiling point than the water. When the water becomes steam and that is captured and cooled down and re-condensed into water, all the minerals, that have a higher boiling point, are left in the original container.
So now you have water with no minerals, but what about the organic contaminates and other "volatile compounds" that have a lower boiling point then water? These are transferred into the now distilled water since they boil off before the water boils off, and have to be removed through purification of some kind. IE filters, osmosis, etc etc.
The end result is about as 100% pure H20 as you can get, giving the salt and vinegar as neutral a base as possible.

I have spent a lot of time reading a million different ways to "seal" clothes with leaking dye.
Some people swear the salt vinegar works, others say it is a wives tale, even though upon researching the actual dying processes at the factories I learned they use salt or vinegar, depending on the process being used and the fabric being dyed, in the dying process to help the dye bind to the fabric.
Some people say the salt and vinegar is 100% BS, and you have to buy expensive chemicals from X, Y, Z companies to seal the dyes on clothes.
Some say both methods are 100% BS and if it leaks dye it leaks dye. No way around it.

So far I have had a few pieces stain TPE, and my steps have fixed that. Those clothes have no interaction/effect on my TPE test pieces anymore.
So until I can find someone to prove me wrong or I encounter a piece of fabric that simply will not stop staining, I will keep putting every piece of clothing that will be going within 30 feet of my lady through my tests and, if it needs it, "fixing" steps.
-The only thing the steps will not work on are the man made/synthetic material like pleather or latex. These items are created as what color they are and are not dyed. If they stain/leak it is from piss-poor manufacturing and will always stain/leak

[secretagentman]

Your testing methods are pretty severe, Jeff. Admittedly many of my clothes wouldn't pass your tests...even after the dye was fixed by me.

Salt and vinegar was a common mordant (fixative) 60+ years ago but not so much today primarily due to synthetics and advancing dye technology. This is why it can work on some garments but not others. If you know which dye process was used, salt and vinegar might be more effective. The problem is now there are at least 15 different dye processes used in the textile industry and their QC is variable.

I will say that polyester (almost all cheap clothing) is the biggest culprit with poor dyeing practices and will not respond to any mordant so don't waste your time. Generally, if the garment is mostly synthetic (poly, nylon, acrylic et al) and still stains after multiple, thorough rinsing cycles, it will always stain. It all depends on the severity. FYI, cellulose fibers (rayon et al) is a mixed bag.

[Booty Call Dolls]

secretagentman,
These are not my testing methods, but with some vendors offering black and purple clothing as freebies, Nyoko wanted me to pass these on.
Indigo20 uses a method where he washes clothing in a sink until the water is clear.
After the item has dried, he ties it around an insert and places a book on top.
His dolls have not stained.
Above has worked well for the dolls owner who texted Nyoko.
V/r
BCD

[orchido]

I hand wash all the new clothes with Dawn dish soap before approving them as a doll outfit. If the first wash shows color bleeding, I then hand wash them a 2nd time. Most clothes loose their color bleeding at the first wash.

I once bought a 6-pack of undies and hand washed the first one for 6 times before it stopped loosing color. I've read in this forum about some people washing a cloth for 20 times and it still looses color! Anyway, I put the rest of the panties in the washer and ran it through a heavy soil program of an appropriate cycle. The hand wash following that showed no color leaching, your mileage may vary.

I would repeat the hand wash - machine wash cycle until all color has bleached out, as many time as necessary. The cloth may not look as brilliant on the doll as it could be, unwashed, but the doll without stains will!

Your washing machine is your friend for doll laundry

[Meso]

As a biker, most of our t-shirts are black. The beforementioned method has been successfully used for decades to keep the shirts from fading. I can't comment on how they react to dolls, but I've black t-shirts I bought in the '90's still look brand new because of this treatment. It absolutely seals the colors in. By the way, it also works on any dark dye (red, burgundy, dark blues, whatever). It's a pain to do, but we'll worth it.

[SiliconeWorld]

Awesome post idea! Topics like this really make this forum so valuable!

Tips like this can/will prevent the heartbreak of stains on the ladies. From personal experience , wish I had
this knowledge before trying on dark colored dress on my TPE sweetie. Fortunately the stains were able
To be removed. WHEW!

[kojima]

Your testing methods are pretty severe, Jeff. Admittedly many of my clothes wouldn't pass your tests...even after the dye was fixed by me.

Salt and vinegar was a common mordant (fixative) 60+ years ago but not so much today primarily due to synthetics and advancing dye technology. This is why it can work on some garments but not others. If you know which dye process was used, salt and vinegar might be more effective. The problem is now there are at least 15 different dye processes used in the textile industry and their QC is variable.

I will say that polyester (almost all cheap clothing) is the biggest culprit with poor dyeing practices and will not respond to any mordant so don't waste your time. Generally, if the garment is mostly synthetic (poly, nylon, acrylic et al) and still stains after multiple, thorough rinsing cycles, it will always stain. It all depends on the severity. FYI, cellulose fibers (rayon et al) is a mixed bag.

I can vouch for the fact that fabric does seem to affect the effectiveness of this method. I've tested several black articles of clothing for staining, some (namely cotton) leave absolutely no stains, even without washing or dye setting. Polyester, on the other hand, is a very egregious offender here. I've had a few black articles that are polyester and they can start staining in a matter of minutes, leaving terrible stains after only a few hours. Washing repeatedly didn't do anything, and the dye setting method listed has a slight effect. I have not gone for a second or third vinegar treatment to see if further treating the fabric helps, but it hasn't stopped bleeding 100% so far.

So, yes... I can definitely vouch that black polyester fabrics are very bad at staining.

[Booty Call Dolls]

So far I have had a few pieces stain TPE, and my steps have fixed that. Those clothes have no interaction/effect on my TPE test pieces anymore.
So until I can find someone to prove me wrong or I encounter a piece of fabric that simply will not stop staining, I will keep putting every piece of clothing that will be going within 30 feet of my lady through my tests and, if it needs it, "fixing" steps.
-The only thing the steps will not work on are the man made/synthetic material like pleather or latex. These items are created as what color they are and are not dyed. If they stain/leak it is from piss-poor manufacturing and will always stain/leak

[Booty Call Dolls]

Another method
washing an item in a bucket of water
Over and over again
empty the bucket after each time
until the water becomes clear.
Let item dry
Wrap around test piece of TPE
Place two heavy books on top
Let sit for 48 hours
Love,
The BCD Girls, Megan, Ximena, and Takara
“We turn dreams into reality”

MEGAN

XIMENA

TAKARA

[Frost]

How about removing stuff like waterproof eye liner from a silicone doll? Anyone know a good method?