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ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Lush Latex Love Dolls...Travel companions that fit in your backpack. Often ranging from $150 to $300
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solitaryman1424
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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by solitaryman1424 »

Latex dolls are made the same as latex gloves, take a plaster mold of a small doll[outside], after plaster has set up pull the body from the plaster mold, close the mold back up then fill the plaster mold with porcelain slip, about 10 to 20 minutes for a good moldpour access slip back in jar[slip should be about 1/4 to 3/8 thick. After the porcelain has dried it will shrink in mother mold so it can be removed and be fired to cure then the body will be strong enough to dip into latex for a body pull and not break your mold. Latex glove mold are dipped in a salt solution then died, after drying then dipped in latex, the salt makes the latex thicken on the mold, then the mold is tipped up too let access latex dip off than dried. Check out youtube glove making machines then you will see how it is done.

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by Void Pointer »

So, mold must be made of porcelain? Well, I guess it's porous surface will do the trick.
What else can I use? Can I cover an existing mold (metal or plastic one) with something, in order to make suitable surface?

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by solitaryman1424 »

Plastic mold work, but make sure to remove any oils. Watch out for certain metal react with latex, such as copper for one.

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by Void Pointer »

React a bad way or a good way (as active coagulant)?
Speaking about simple solutions, wood seems to be the best.
I've tried to apply latex with a brush:
Painted on flat surface.JPG
Painted on flat surface.JPG (419.49 KiB) Viewed 3824 times
It have varying thickness, it's relatively thin, it have visible seams between strokes and relatively easily ripped by one of them. But it's certainly possible to apply latex with a brush! Maybe in 3..5 layers it'll become tolerably strong.
Dipped wood mold was perfect. I've used a chopstick. I've removed sharp edges and dipped it in CaCl2 solution for few minutes.
Dried for a day and slowly dipped in latex for few minutes more (fast dipping causes air bubbles on surface). Dried for 1/2 hour and made "lips".
After drying for two days more:
Chopstick as a mold.JPG
Chopstick as a mold.JPG (150.14 KiB) Viewed 3824 times
Dipped in hot water, removed from the mold, boiled in 70 Celsius water for 10 min:
Fully cured in hot water.JPG
Fully cured in hot water.JPG (77.81 KiB) Viewed 3824 times
And the inflation test:
Balloon is perfect.avi
(2.07 MiB) Downloaded 3225 times
It's flawless. No bubble holes, thickness is constant, it's thick and almost returns it's shape after deflation. Wall thickness is perfect for a doll: it'll not bloat on any reasonable pressure (A. K. A. max. possible blood pressure in a human penis: you'll barely need a doll inflated too tightly to have a sex).

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by Void Pointer »

Aerial wrote:You will need a slush mould (a common method for making full head latex masks), which is a hollow single-piece mould filled with only a small amount of liquid latex and then rotated by 2 axes to form a latex layer inside.
A brilliant idea. You don't even need to rotate it: you can buy enough latex to fill any doll unless you try to copy Carol Yager. It'll cost $10000 to fill a tank big enough to dip a doll, but it'll cost $1000 to fill a doll itself. You don't even need a single-piece mould! Latex coagulates quickly, so mould can be disassembled without noticeable leaks. You can decrease the inner volume by some tricks such as turning her tits inside out. They'll pop out as you inflate her :) Legs, arms and waist can be flat tubes. They'll also get proper shape.
Air bubbles sticking to walls will however be the most annoying problem.

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by Void Pointer »

I'm going to test a "spoon mold". It's a dipping mold, not a slush mold, so it's no real reason to contract it's volume. It's for testing purposes only (will it cause additional stress on latex, or become a weak point, or a visible seam etc).
I'll think about making it's edge not as sharp as it's drawn here.
spoon_mold.gif
spoon_mold.gif (3.52 KiB) Viewed 3815 times

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by solitaryman1424 »

I just happened to be on alibuba tonight and saw a seller selling French domax latex dolls, don't know if they are for real but I asked for more pictures, don't know if this helps. The sellers name was French, not the old maker.

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by DoctorDuke »

FYI - original French Domax Latex Doll now available for sale here on TDF

viewtopic.php?f=128&t=114884
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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by DoctorDuke »

Update - this doll for sale had multiple parties interested and was sold on first day listed.

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by solitaryman1424 »

As you look at this forum you can see why latex dolls are not made anymore, if their was a lot more interest someone might be inclined to make them. This forum is almost dead on the forum[latex] and that is why no one will stick money into latex dolls. Their is a person with the last name of Prezes from Spain that says they make the French domax latex doll.

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by JayJayHache »

Hi Solitaryman 1424 -

Can you please tell me where you found the info on the 'Prezes' person in Spain? I'm keen to try and make contact - there are a lot of people lurking on this forum who'd buy a Domax type doll if they could find a way too.

Thanks for your help with this

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by JayJayHache »

Hi Void Pointer - great DIY test work, thanks for experimenting with this. The chopstick version certainly came out well.

I've been toying with trying some dip mould tests with liquid latex.

Can you tell me please what the CaCl2 solution is, and why you used it?

When you boiled the end result at 70 degrees C for 10 minutes - was that to vulcanise the rubber? Would 100 degrees / longer boil times work better to make it stronger?

Thanks again, best wishes...



Void Pointer wrote:React a bad way or a good way (as active coagulant)?
Speaking about simple solutions, wood seems to be the best.
I've tried to apply latex with a brush:
Painted on flat surface.JPG
It have varying thickness, it's relatively thin, it have visible seams between strokes and relatively easily ripped by one of them. But it's certainly possible to apply latex with a brush! Maybe in 3..5 layers it'll become tolerably strong.
Dipped wood mold was perfect. I've used a chopstick. I've removed sharp edges and dipped it in CaCl2 solution for few minutes.
Dried for a day and slowly dipped in latex for few minutes more (fast dipping causes air bubbles on surface). Dried for 1/2 hour and made "lips".
After drying for two days more:
Chopstick as a mold.JPG
Dipped in hot water, removed from the mold, boiled in 70 Celsius water for 10 min:
Fully cured in hot water.JPG
And the inflation test:
Balloon is perfect.avi
It's flawless. No bubble holes, thickness is constant, it's thick and almost returns it's shape after deflation. Wall thickness is perfect for a doll: it'll not bloat on any reasonable pressure (A. K. A. max. possible blood pressure in a human penis: you'll barely need a doll inflated too tightly to have a sex).

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by Void Pointer »

JayJayHache wrote: I've been toying with trying some dip mould tests with liquid latex.
Can you tell me please what the CaCl2 solution is, and why you used it?
When you boiled the end result at 70 degrees C for 10 minutes - was that to vulcanise the rubber? Would 100 degrees / longer boil times work better to make it stronger?
CaCl2 is a popular coagulant. Porous surface such as wood can hold it and slowly release, until coagulated latex reach the needed thickness. Without it, you can't make a thick envelope. It's also used for milk coagulation (cheese making) etc. You can easily buy it.

70 deg. value has been copied from well-known balloon production technology, but I'm currently thinking it's better to vulcanise it in hotter water (80..90) for few minutes, and boil in 70 deg. water for longer time afterwards.

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by Aerial »

I never heard that anybody successfully vulcanized by boiling in hot water. AFAIK successful vulcanizing depends on removing all water from the solution, else the molecules can not crosslink. Boiling in water likely will quickly make latex rot, that's why nobody uses this.

Hot air (hairdryer, tumble dryer) is traditionally used. Also hot steam (which is water) may be used - but likely only because it dries quickly when the product is removed, and then a tumble dryer does the rest.

Image

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Re: ANY UPDATED news on the french doll business?

Post by Void Pointer »

Aerial wrote:
Posted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 11:37 pm
I never heard that anybody successfully vulcanized by boiling in hot water. AFAIK successful vulcanizing depends on removing all water from the solution, else the molecules can not crosslink. Boiling in water likely will quickly make latex rot, that's why nobody uses this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7pYoA9gEqc

But I agree balloons rot relatively quickly. They never stay for more than two years.

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