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3D printers thread

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Matjy Pilulgri
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3D printers thread

Post by Matjy Pilulgri »

First 3D printed humanoid robot!!!!!!! :D

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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by dukesix9 »

Awesome topic! I've been thinking I might get a 3D printer myself, but so far haven't.

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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by Matjy Pilulgri »

I would be careful of the printers that boast crazy large build volumes. It's mainly just a gimmick.
Just because the machine is big doesn't mean you're going to be able to print that large successfully.
I call this successful.
Human-sized mannequin printed in 2 days.

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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by MannequinFan »

Human size?
The bulldog clips holding the glass build plate should give you an idea of the size.
I'd say it's about 6 to 8 inches tall.

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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by Mishka1965 »

On the topic of 3D printers, I am trying to start to make ABS parts, but still not sure of the build plate setup. I have a creality CR10 and I3 prusa, and both have heated plates. I wonder what people use to print ABS?

Masking tape, hairspray, PEI, capton tape?

Also, I recon, I should make a simple heated enclosure with IR lamps to maintain some heat..

I use simplify3D for the slicer.

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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by MannequinFan »

Mishka1965 wrote:On the topic of 3D printers, I am trying to start to make ABS parts, but still not sure of the build plate setup. I have a creality CR10 and I3 prusa, and both have heated plates. I wonder what people use to print ABS?

Masking tape, hairspray, PEI, capton tape?

Also, I recon, I should make a simple heated enclosure with IR lamps to maintain some heat..

I use simplify3D for the slicer.

Mishka
Hi Mishka,

I print exclusively with ABS.
You definitely need a heated bed. For larger parts I usually have the bed at full temp (100c+).
My printer (Afinia) uses a removable perforated FR4 board for the print surface which anchors the ABS well. It requires a scraper to get them off but it works really well.
You can also use a borosilicate glass print bed with some ABS juice (thin acetone/ABS mixture) applied to the glass. The enclosure is also a good idea for larger parts.

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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by SFembot »

MF knows this but I prefer using PLA on my Rostock Max V2+ delta printer.

I find I get a better quality of print with my choice of 1.75 mm PLA and I don't have to worry about the part warping.

I usually set my heated bed to 60 degrees C, though, as it's still recommended. Haven't had any problems but I've been
tweaking my printer for over a year now, deltas are more "finicky" but I think the end result is worth the effort.

having said all of that, I am planning on a i3 or equivalent to use a higher temp extruder so I can try out nylon / polycarbonate /
Ninjaflex.

How else am I going to make the gaskets for my Fallout Assaultron? :lol:
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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by Mishka1965 »

SFembot wrote:MF knows this but I prefer using PLA on my Rostock Max V2+ delta printer.

I find I get a better quality of print with my choice of 1.75 mm PLA and I don't have to worry about the part warping.

I usually set my heated bed to 60 degrees C, though, as it's still recommended. Haven't had any problems but I've been
tweaking my printer for over a year now, deltas are more "finicky" but I think the end result is worth the effort.

having said all of that, I am planning on a i3 or equivalent to use a higher temp extruder so I can try out nylon / polycarbonate /
Ninjaflex.

How else am I going to make the gaskets for my Fallout Assaultron? :lol:
Yeah, I just did some ABS prints and they generally worked fine, but the quality was inferior to PLA in the feel of the part and the way it looked.
So, I will stick with PLA for now. The ABS juice works well, but I just don't like the feel of ABS parts.. I did smooth with acetone and that was ok, but I also use crystal clear liquid epoxy (12 hour hardening) over PLA which hides the lines well enough after airbrushing..


I have a glass and a buildtec bed, and when using aquanet spray on the bed, PLA sticks fine and much better compared to tape alone - which rips


Here's some finished stuff:

Shoes for 100cm Doll!
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Diarama
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Shoes for 68cm Doll
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1/3 scale Doll
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1/6 scale Doll

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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by SFembot »

The trick with the tape (Blue Painter's tape) is to use Elmer's School Glue as the bed heats up, it really works out for me on my PLA prints...

The other thing that I don't like about ABS is the possible carcinogenic effect of breathing in the fumes, however, it's my go-to for anything
I have to deploy in the field as you can't beat it for durability outdoors.

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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by MannequinFan »

I'm getting a serious twitch in my wallet right now... :twisted:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... inter.html
ImageImage

Cheapest they've ever been. That's less than what I paid for my little H479 4 years ago.
These are fully enclosed for dealing with warping, and a HEPA filter for dealing with the fume issue.
These printers were designed from the beginning for printing ABS so it's pretty close to plug & play.
I prefer ABS because of it's light weight, strength/resilience and ease of finishing which is usually the most time consuming part of 3d printing.

The UP Box+ (same machine) is even cheaper here...
https://www.octave.com/3d-printers/tier ... inter.html

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Matjy Pilulgri
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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by Matjy Pilulgri »

MannequinFan wrote:Human size?
The bulldog clips holding the glass build plate should give you an idea of the size.
I'd say it's about 6 to 8 inches tall.
Then I must have mistaken the size of that printer, for the size of the one in this clip.


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Re: 3D printers thread

Post by SFembot »

MrSingle wrote:
MannequinFan wrote:Human size?
The bulldog clips holding the glass build plate should give you an idea of the size.
I'd say it's about 6 to 8 inches tall.
Then I must have mistaken the size of that printer, for the size of the one in this clip.

And that's why I like deltas... :)

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