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My fully 3D printed M16 headstand.

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editit
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My fully 3D printed M16 headstand.

Post by editit »

I have a 3D printer so why not? Need to see if it holds up to use. I need to clue on the rubber/foam base pad. I don’t have much room so I had to keep it small. I am still a super noob to modeling software and 3D printing.
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Re: My fully 3D printed M16 headstand.

Post by MannequinFan »

Hey nice job editit!
Those threads printed pretty nicely!

One thing I would suggest though is to just epoxy in an M16 bolt instead of the plastic.
The heads are pretty heavy and I'm afraid that might snap on you, especially if you are using PLA.

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editit
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Re: My fully 3D printed M16 headstand.

Post by editit »

Lol. First one snapped pretty fast. Changed the infill and it’s working great so far. I was going to try and make one using a bolt next. Thanks!
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Re: My fully 3D printed M16 headstand.

Post by TDFnoob »

Give your 3d print a nice little acetone bath...

Basically, get a metal trash can. An old popcorn tin works really well.. Put a plate big enough to set your object on inside the can. Pour some acetone in, just don't get any on the plate. You don't need much. 1/8" is plenty. Heat the acetone with a hair dryer to evaporate a little, then heat the outside of the can for a minute to evaporate some more. If you can smell the fumes, stop. Set your 3d print inside the can, put the lid on loosely, briefly heat the outside of the can again. Leave your 3d print in there for like 5-15 minutes, when it looks glossy, pick up the plate, take it out, give it some fresh air.

The surface should have sealed itself together because of the acetone fumes and should be MUCH stronger than a raw 3d print..

This works for pretty much any prints.

You're welcome. :D

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editit
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Re: My fully 3D printed M16 headstand.

Post by editit »

What media are you printing with. Right now I am using PLA. I thought the acetone was just for ABS?
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Re: My fully 3D printed M16 headstand.

Post by MannequinFan »

editit wrote:What media are you printing with. Right now I am using PLA. I thought the acetone was just for ABS?
Hi editit,

Yes you are correct - acetone only works with ABS and a few other materials.
Also, using heat to vaporize acetone is both unnecessary and dangerous!
Acetone will vaporize in room temperature, so all that it necessary is to line a container with paper towels dampened with acetone. It takes a bit longer but it's much more controllable and even.

I use a method similar to this, except I dampen the paper towels before putting them in, instead of pouring acetone in the container.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvCEnA0NEG4


Another way using acetone proof plastic containers...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2lm6FuaAWI

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