Question regarding soldering iron

[RGC_0767]

Really nice job with the weld, showing proper amt to add to repair and blend. I just bought one of those variable tandem heat stations for about sixty bucks online, and was just about to test it. What is holding me back is: first the toxic fumes, which I will take precautions of fans and respirator, and secondly, the lack of a spherical solder tip. I was going to heat a modelling tool with the heat gun, but having the iron set at constant temp, augmented by the copper wire to the bearing end is brilliant! Thanks for the idea and techniques, it must have been difficult drilling into the bearing, which are usually pretty tough metal. I would use a softer metal, like a bead (piercing?) already drilled. But stainless is best, any metal that oxidizes could leave rust in the repair. I've been really careful with my doll over the last six months with plenty of oiling and such, and so far no tears, only some defects such as casting flakes and bubbles that may becone bigger problems over time unless they are sealed. I have found three micro cuts from the postwork on the eyelids, but these can be held together with the eyelashes, and lets me change eyes easier actually.

As more members learn about higher level doll-care and repair, the community as a whole can benefit, and our synthetic ladies can have lasting healthy sexlives...

Had bought a decent drill press vise just for this purpose. Just grind a small flat spot on ball, center punch and drill slowly. I did break several bits.
This ball is way too big. Have ordered some 5 and 6 mm alloy copper plated balls with holes already. Also, ordered some 3mm thick copper rods 120mm long. May be able to make some tools from those as well.
My very first attempt months ago making a solder ball was copper foil balled up. Didn't work very well.

Any solder or heat gun work, delicate touch with tool is mandatory Mineral oil is as well.
Getting the right working temperature will not create much smoke. The only smoke I get is if there is a bit of TPE on solder iron tip after the work.
I don't get smoke with hot air. I run between 140c and 150c with lowest fan speed.

My first work with hot air and a ball tool, I pushed too hard, making speed bumps it was just frustration LOL

Hot air will correct the scuffs etc your doll has. heat surface to shiny molten, and apply a texture with sandpaper or oil soaked cloth.
That's a technique I've not mastered too well.
It all takes time to learn. Hopefully we don't screw up too bad while we learn

[curious dave]

how do you do this with soldering iron RGC_0767
do you just fuse materiel together so it melts and sticks
my girls vagina needs attention tried with tpe glue but it made it a tiny bit worse so i stopped using it
just ordered a soldering iron with some copper wire.
but whats the trick to do it.

[RGC_0767]

how do you do this with soldering iron RGC_0767
do you just fuse materiel together so it melts and sticks
my girls vagina needs attention tried with tpe glue but it made it a tiny bit worse so i stopped using it
just ordered a soldering iron with some copper wire.
but whats the trick to do it.

I used a test toy to figure out how to flow this stuff. How it behaves, how much heat to use. My dolls TPE is very tough. and needs a good amount of heat.
But did practice on a TPE toy before even touching doll. Some TPE melts quicker than others. At least the toys I have do. The thinner, softer the TPE is, it will melt/flow easier.
Making it easier to mess up too

Too much smoke? too hot.
Do not use the default tip of iron. It will vaporize the material, making more work.
It's why I had made a tip to have it cooler as heat travels to end of tip. On my 30 watt iron I found a 2 inch tip (from tip of iron to tip of homemade blade) works perfect for my doll.
Was testing with another toy on weekend, and the ball tool needed to be shortened. Soi is a lot of trial and error. Once you figure out what works best for your doll, confidence grows.

A very clean tip is also key to getting it flowing. Basically everything has to be clean. No specks or it will get in the material.

Mineral oil is needed, you cannot flow this stuff dry, you can, but i globs and sticks. So mineral oil will make surface slippery. Mineral oil Not baby oil. There is a difference. I've tried both and Min oil is tops!
If you do not have spare TPE that came with doll, cut some TPE from her neck with sharp scissors. not a lot, just few little pieces. maybe 3/4 inch long, 1/4 inch thick.
Added to Labia in small bits at a time. Easier to flow a small piece than a big chunk.
Wiped and cleaned area with Min oil, and cleaned new piece with min oil.
place where you want it, with just the copper wire like a hockey stick. Just touch it lightly, and it will begin to go molten. move it gently around a little.

You know what I wanna get? One of these:

maglens.jpg

That could make for some fine detail work
175%??? sweet!!

Practice Practice Practice.... Patience Patience Patience

[curious dave]

how do you do this with soldering iron RGC_0767
do you just fuse materiel together so it melts and sticks
my girls vagina needs attention tried with tpe glue but it made it a tiny bit worse so i stopped using it
just ordered a soldering iron with some copper wire.
but whats the trick to do it.

I used a test toy to figure out how to flow this stuff. How it behaves, how much heat to use. My dolls TPE is very tough. and needs a good amount of heat.
But did practice on a TPE toy before even touching doll. Some TPE melts quicker than others. At least the toys I have do. The thinner, softer the TPE is, it will melt/flow easier.
Making it easier to mess up too

Too much smoke? too hot.
Do not use the default tip of iron. It will vaporize the material, making more work.
It's why I had made a tip to have it cooler as heat travels to end of tip. On my 30 watt iron I found a 2 inch tip (from tip of iron to tip of homemade blade) works perfect for my doll.
Was testing with another toy on weekend, and the ball tool needed to be shortened. Soi is a lot of trial and error. Once you figure out what works best for your doll, confidence grows.

A very clean tip is also key to getting it flowing. Basically everything has to be clean. No specks or it will get in the material.

Mineral oil is needed, you cannot flow this stuff dry, you can, but i globs and sticks. So mineral oil will make surface slippery. Mineral oil Not baby oil. There is a difference. I've tried both and Min oil is tops!
If you do not have spare TPE that came with doll, cut some TPE from her neck with sharp scissors. not a lot, just few little pieces. maybe 3/4 inch long, 1/4 inch thick.
Added to Labia in small bits at a time. Easier to flow a small piece than a big chunk.
Wiped and cleaned area with Min oil, and cleaned new piece with min oil.
place where you want it, with just the copper wire like a hockey stick. Just touch it lightly, and it will begin to go molten. move it gently around a little.

You know what I wanna get? One of these:

maglens.jpg

That could make for some fine detail work
175%??? sweet!!

Practice Practice Practice.... Patience Patience Patience

thank you i will practice on spare tpe first, thats why i bought copper wire for as i seen your set up
many thanx for quick reply.

[RGC_0767]

how do you do this with soldering iron RGC_0767

thank you i will practice on spare tpe first, thats why i bought copper wire for as i seen your set up
many thanx for quick reply.

Just so it does not surprise you, when practicing on a spare piece and gain a little feeling about it all, and then you finally get brave and move on to the doll
doll will a bit different and may take more time to get it to go to flow.
On Labia it's not too bad. smaller area to work.
Very important as well, do not have legs wide open, just enough so you can work comfortably. Any tension on this TPE and it will split.
Put some tension/stretch on your test piece, you'll see what happens.

My first work was her wrist cut when I replaced the fingers. I was very surprised that it was completely different to work on. I'd messed up the cut a little.
But was able to fix it.
If you are going to use something similar to what I'd made with wire coiled around iron tip, make sure you keep the irons tip clean, otherwise heat flow through wire will not work as well.
it gets all black & gummed up.
keeping the tools clean is all the difference.

[MrVitalic]

omg, I tried today with my 30w iron and a steel coil and the temp is too low, then I tried with the tip of the iron and its like cutting butter with a hot knife (fizzle). I did not damage my doll but right now I have to learn hot to work with tpe. As shown by rgc, Il make myself a ball with a copper coil. Good lord Im happy to have access to a machine shop.... I understand now why its better to add material then trying to melt and fuse whats already there. Did'n thougt I will be that hard.

[winterwarBo]

I finally tried my versa tool out yesterday. I patched a hole in Kat's heal that was there for over a year. And smoothed out Janie's hand surgery scar. I could have gone a little more crazy with it. But I can always go over it again.

the versa tool isn't as precise with the heat control as a soldering station.

I am not a sculptor.

before

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after

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IMG_5169.jpg (172.61 KiB) Viewed 962 times

[MrVitalic]

I finally tried my versa tool out yesterday. I patched a hole in Kat's heal that was there for over a year. And smoothed out Janie's hand surgery scar. I could have gone a little more crazy with it. But I can always go over it again.

the versa tool isn't as precise with the heat control as a soldering station.

I am not a sculptor.

Isnt the versa tool a glass cutter ? You did a good job on your doll to be honest, way better then tfm ahah. How long it take for tpe to cool down and retain shape ?

[winterwarBo]

Isnt the versa tool a glass cutter ? You did a good job on your doll to be honest, way better then tfm ahah. How long it take for tpe to cool down and retain shape ?

Versa tool is for wood burning. And thanks It's not my finest work. I am far better with a flap disc grinding away beautiful welds. But the TPE cooled off in a couple minutes. IT IS VERY VERY TACKY. Make sure your hands are super clean. You can rub baby on it or powder it. Like any other stress cut in tpe it's easier to melt a piece in then try to stretch and seal what is there.

Versa Tool is like 20-30 dollars and it comes with a bunch of tips with the kit and you can buy letters and numbers symbols... etc. I think the screw in it looks like 6-32 I might try making a tip for it at work out of brass.

I traced one of the hand plates I got from crazycajun before he passed away. I might try making up a couple sets. Lisa and Kat both need the surgery. Kat could stand her leg joints to be tightened too.

I would have loved to have had this tool when I did the surgery. It comes with an xacto blade attachment like a hot knife. I could have done much more precise work. Janie is my favorite, and I was very nervous cutting into her. Worth It.. I would do it again. The little scar on her palms is worth not having flopping hands.

Even before the surgery, or even before her hands broke. she could never have held even held a little roku remote.

IMG_5171.jpg (693.41 KiB) Viewed 957 times

let alone a Firearm..

DSC00434.jpg (222.47 KiB) Viewed 957 times

[MrVitalic]

Woahh ahah if she become angry one day watch out :p You are very kind for the info about the versa tool, Il look into it, have a nice evening ! ( and your doll is pretty cute btw )