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Water inside doll, is she dead ?

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MrVitalic
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Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by MrVitalic »

Hi my dear tdf friends. Its been a while since I logged to tdf. I was living a rather peaceful doll life.

Its been a month since I found that my doll leg was separating from the skeleton ( and maybe the back). I realized this morning that shes full of water. This is not pretty. From the picture, the white speck inside the turkey baster is baby powder. Shes two years old and ' in good shape'. So now I found shes full of rust and water. I dont think theres much I can do to save her. I can imagine that mold will grow to a point I could get very sick right ? I cant buy a new body, I'm just starting saving to buy my first house. I'l try to drain all the water, and see if I can at least stop potential harm ( theres should be mold already inside).

I dont know how to dispose of her body (I'm keeping the head). Maybe cut her body in piece and dump her? Oh god :(
What I have on hand atm is : vaseline, turkey baster, aquarium pump, shopvac, baby powder, baby oil, engine oil, and a soldering station if I need to close her up (need proper tip for the job tho)
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by Arthur1960 »

Hi there, well as you've already guessed this is pretty serious, the fact that the water coming out is discoloured indicates rusting. I guess there's always an outside chance that the water has just remained in that one place but in all liklihood its got in through the tpe plug in the vagina. I guess if it were me would make a cut in a straight line down the leg, as neat as possible, to remove all the water and then completely dry everything inside. If the water hasn't spread everywhere then you may just have to deal with that part of the skeleton but you would have to get it completely dry and treat the rusted areas with a rust inhibitor and then wrap gauze bandage around the metal before sealing up the cut. The cut itself can be sealed quite well provided you get a neat cut, sharp pointed scissors work best. Sadly if the water has spread everywhere then your gal is going to need a new bod but don't rush to dispose of the body as I'm sure there are members on here that could recycle it or even do the repair work needed to save the bod. In any case good luck!

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by nicvncnt »

So sorry to read about this happening to your doll - it must be heart breaking for you. As Arthur says, it's almost certainly due to the TPE ball coming loose so please consider an insert vagina for the replacement body. However, best wishes to you whatever you decide.

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by MrVitalic »

@Arthur1960 @nicvncnt Thx for the support guys! :thumbs_up: After a bit of investigation. I didnt found mold yet. I appear the affected area is located between the hip and the knee (both legs). I'l make a little cut somewhere safe in her back later today to check if theres water there too ( I was hearing presence of water in her stomach last week, but thought it was just tpe bouncing around).

Since theres no mold so far, I think I can save her. I dont have the right tools atm to melt back the cut but at least I'l make her dry as much as possible today. I'l have to use only femdom and/or just stop having sex with her in the future, until I can afford a new body. Have a nice day. I'l post picture here and there on this thread to show the repair if successful and my investigation.
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Dolls are awesome ! :glou:

- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤

Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.

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MrVitalic
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by MrVitalic »

Earlier this morning.

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- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤

Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by BigJoeBuck »

this happened to me as well i had to cut her up and disassemble her

you can try to dry her out but rust is bad and mold is worse

you could try to cut holes in various places and somehow hang her to leak out

i ended up buying a new doll

rule no 1 do not ever imerse a doll in water
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by Willus »

noob1977 wrote:rule no 1 do not ever imerse a doll in water
Oh what a horrible thing to deal with.

I'm imagining this could also happen slowly over time if the TPE plug in the orifice isn't sealed properly. every time you rinse/wash it out a bit of water could make its way inside...

I honestly assumed the orifices would have a moulded "end" (like a cup shape rather than a tube shape). The little TPE ball that's shoved in there, which I discovered while trying to fix my doll, didn't even seem glued in place. Seemed like it wouldn't have stopped... erm... liquid from making its way inside, had I ever barebacked her.
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by Wheezer »

MrVitalic wrote:Hi my dear tdf friends. Its been a while since I logged to tdf. I was living a rather peaceful doll life.

Its been a month since I found that my doll leg was separating from the skeleton ( and maybe the back). I realized this morning that shes full of water. This is not pretty. From the picture, the white speck inside the turkey baster is baby powder. Shes two years old and ' in good shape'. So now I found shes full of rust and water. I dont think theres much I can do to save her. I can imagine that mold will grow to a point I could get very sick right ? I cant buy a new body, I'm just starting saving to buy my first house. I'l try to drain all the water, and see if I can at least stop potential harm ( theres should be mold already inside).

I dont know how to dispose of her body (I'm keeping the head). Maybe cut her body in piece and dump her? Oh god :(
What I have on hand atm is : vaseline, turkey baster, aquarium pump, shopvac, baby powder, baby oil, engine oil, and a soldering station if I need to close her up (need proper tip for the job tho)
Well it seems fixable, however I am a doll optimist - so keep that in mind. It depends on what level you want to go to with the repair.

First obviously is to get the water out. Then try to internally dry her as best you can (air pump, etc.) Next would be mold prevention. I use a water diluted bathroom cleaner for my fixed vagina dolls, you could use a similar solution. They are rated to kill all sorts of bad things, so mold is no issue to them. So once as dry as you can, then insert some of the cleaner to kill any existing mold. Let is sit then remove as best as you can. Any residual left inside would be a potential benefit as a potential mold preventer.

Next is identification of the water ingress point. Probably the vagina ball. Lots of heated posts about the dreaded ball but I understand they need it to seal up a manufacturing support point. Check with a cheap endoscope or by the old "jam your hand up her twat test" to see if it is missing. Some folks have inserted an air pump or syringe in the vagina to pump in air to check for leaks. Whatever works. Just find the leak.

There was one long post about fixing the TPE ball that gave the steps for that. Best to use a solution to cold weld or bond the TPE. If it were me I would put a ball of TPE that fit the hole and then bond it with either 3M 94 primer or 3M VHB primer. Pump in air to help it cure and wait. Heat might be a bear that deep in the love canal.

Cuts or nicks on the legs or other spots needed to either drain or assist drying can easily be bonded back by using either 3M 94 or 3M VHB primer to weld the TPE. Just make sure the join area is clean cut (easier final blending with no ragged edges) clean of debris and prep the area with alcohol prior to bonding.

You can get her all sealed up without heat, that's not a problem. Getting the water our, cleaning to prevent potential mold and finding and fixing the leak is the challenge.

FWIW my method of cleaning fixed vagina dolls it to arrange them vagina UP for cleaning by using liquids and syringe for insertion and extraction and letting gravity help. If you place her vagina down you have to use a forceful water stream to get all the way up inside. If the ball is fine but sealed "just OK" (rather than really good), that water jet force might cause it to fail. Final step is to fill the vagina to the top with the cleaner and let it dwell (wait) a bit before removal. If I come back in a few minutes and see the liquid level has dropped, then it is a good indication of a leak. Early indication means early and easier fix. Just a thought.

Good luck!
... W ...
Any comments, ideas or suggestions are given FREELY for your use and information. Before using, first check to ensure they are compatible with your doll or specific situation. If any tool, chemical or technique is mentioned, make sure to follow all directions and safety instructions of the product. Some tools or items can be dangerous, so be careful. Use all appropriate safety gear, don’t run with scissors and don’t eat the yellow snow. Always keep your mind open.

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by seagull »

Probably for someone with no experience in working with heat repairs, the 3M 94 Primer might prove to be the safest
Least aggressive of all and will respond really well to heat and abrasive paper further down the track should it be needed
Also readily available and pricewise compares favorably with the Indigo CWA product

The rust will come from water getting on the steel bolts joining the stainless tube sections together
Once you have as much of the water drained out as per Wheezer's suggestion of small nicks or holes, target the joints with small incisions will give access to the rusted stuff
Get some WD40 or rust inhibitor of your choice in there and then dry it off, any residual rust will hold the inhibitor in there preventing further corrosion
Then apply the gauze bandage that Arthur1960 referred to and go for closing the wounds up
There are some detailed posts about this but just remember to use toothpick quantities starting from the deepest part of the cuts and work to the outside, especially for the mid-section, it is quite thick :)

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by MrVitalic »

Shes been drying since yesterday. I did a little hole in the back at the breast height to see if theres water, but the 'core' is sticking to the skeleton. The problem area is really at the hips. I dont feel to cut her hips. With the entrance I made, I think I can shoot wd40 to the joint in the hips ( Have to go buy some ). Not cool having to cut your doll with a freaking knife when you kiss her all day long. Seriously 8O
Willus wrote:
noob1977 wrote:rule no 1 do not ever imerse a doll in water
I honestly assumed the orifices would have a moulded "end" (like a cup shape rather than a tube shape). The little TPE ball that's shoved in there, which I discovered while trying to fix my doll, didn't even seem glued in place. Seemed like it wouldn't have stopped... erm... liquid from making its way inside, had I ever barebacked her.
Going bareback with a doll is awesome, its a drug, I cant imagine something better except a real life bj. And yes, I wish the end of the vagina would be permanently closed down at the factory.
Wheezer wrote: First obviously is to get the water out. Then try to internally dry her as best you can (air pump, etc.) Next would be mold prevention. I use a water diluted bathroom cleaner for my fixed vagina dolls, you could use a similar solution. They are rated to kill all sorts of bad things, so mold is no issue to them. So once as dry as you can, then insert some of the cleaner to kill any existing mold. Let is sit then remove as best as you can. Any residual left inside would be a potential benefit as a potential mold preventer.

Next is identification of the water ingress point. Probably the vagina ball. Lots of heated posts about the dreaded ball but I understand they need it to seal up a manufacturing support point. Check with a cheap endoscope or by the old "jam your hand up her twat test" to see if it is missing. Some folks have inserted an air pump or syringe in the vagina to pump in air to check for leaks. Whatever works. Just find the leak.

There was one long post about fixing the TPE ball that gave the steps for that. Best to use a solution to cold weld or bond the TPE. If it were me I would put a ball of TPE that fit the hole and then bond it with either 3M 94 primer or 3M VHB primer. Pump in air to help it cure and wait. Heat might be a bear that deep in the love canal.
Thx for the advice.
seagull wrote: The rust will come from water getting on the steel bolts joining the stainless tube sections together
Once you have as much of the water drained out as per Wheezer's suggestion of small nicks or holes, target the joints with small incisions will give access to the rusted stuff
Get some WD40 or rust inhibitor of your choice in there and then dry it off, any residual rust will hold the inhibitor in there preventing further corrosion
Then apply the gauze bandage that Arthur1960 referred to and go for closing the wounds up
There are some detailed posts about this but just remember to use toothpick quantities starting from the deepest part of the cuts and work to the outside, especially for the mid-section, it is quite thick :)
Its very thick :P. I'l try my soldering iron first with a long flat tip (need to buy). Its unfortunate that so far I cant access the tpe ball from the lower back or the belly. I dont want risking cutting one of her love canal.
Dolls are awesome ! :glou:

- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤

Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by Wheezer »

Check here (https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 7&t=126029) for a good overview of plug repair. No heat needed, all cold chemicals. That might be the trick.
Cheers!
... W ...
Any comments, ideas or suggestions are given FREELY for your use and information. Before using, first check to ensure they are compatible with your doll or specific situation. If any tool, chemical or technique is mentioned, make sure to follow all directions and safety instructions of the product. Some tools or items can be dangerous, so be careful. Use all appropriate safety gear, don’t run with scissors and don’t eat the yellow snow. Always keep your mind open.

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by MrVitalic »

Can somebody remind what solvent was deadly for a doll ? Is this acetone ? I was friend with RGC and he did send me some pure tpe pellet last year so I can make my own tpe glue.

The plan :
-Buying wd 40 and apply it to the hips joint.
-Applying baby powder inside her leg (where I cuted) to absorb moisture and prevent mold
-Closing the wound with home made tpe glue ( letting 0,250' on the surface to finish with a soldering iron)
-Solder the surface and finish with a heat gun.
-Finding tool to inspect and put back the tpe ball ( Maybe applying tpe glue to the tpe ball).

I'l take a hot shower and go on my mission.
Dolls are awesome ! :glou:

- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤

Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by MrVitalic »

Wheezer wrote:Check here (https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 7&t=126029) for a good overview of plug repair. No heat needed, all cold chemicals. That might be the trick.
Cheers!
... W ...
Thx a lot man! :thumbs_up: :thumbs_up: :thumbs_up:
Dolls are awesome ! :glou:

- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤

Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by Wheezer »

MrVitalic wrote:Can somebody remind what solvent was deadly for a doll ? Is this acetone ? I was friend with RGC and he did send me some pure tpe pellet last year so I can make my own tpe glue.

The plan :
-Buying wd 40 and apply it to the hips joint.
-Applying baby powder inside her leg (where I cuted) to absorb moisture and prevent mold
-Closing the wound with home made tpe glue ( letting 0,250' on the surface to finish with a soldering iron)
-Solder the surface and finish with a heat gun.
-Finding tool to inspect and put back the tpe ball ( Maybe applying tpe glue to the tpe ball).

I'l take a hot shower and go on my mission.
Good ideas ....
Seriously, get some 3M 94 primer to use as glue rather than home made. We have had good results here (viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728) A total of $20 for a 8oz can to your door from Amazon. You can also make TPE paste to fill in non perfect wounds and later to aid in the TPE ball bonding.

Most solvents used to make TPE glue or TPE paste just make TPE mush. Looks good but never really sets up or makes a strong and flexible bond. A thick 3M TPE paste works well for internal work and deep or wide chasm repair, as long as the stress is relieved. Just remember ALL of these cure by evaporation, so give it sufficient time to cure. When you think it's ready, then wait a bit more to be sure.

As for acetone ... shudder ... some TPE is OK with it, other crinkle up, and if there is stress the TPE might unzip. I use it sparingly in very specific situations when using certain chemicals on TPE, but never as a general item on a doll. But that's just me.

Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...
Any comments, ideas or suggestions are given FREELY for your use and information. Before using, first check to ensure they are compatible with your doll or specific situation. If any tool, chemical or technique is mentioned, make sure to follow all directions and safety instructions of the product. Some tools or items can be dangerous, so be careful. Use all appropriate safety gear, don’t run with scissors and don’t eat the yellow snow. Always keep your mind open.

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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?

Post by MrVitalic »

Wheezer wrote:
MrVitalic wrote:Can somebody remind what solvent was deadly for a doll ? Is this acetone ? I was friend with RGC and he did send me some pure tpe pellet last year so I can make my own tpe glue.

The plan :
-Buying wd 40 and apply it to the hips joint.
-Applying baby powder inside her leg (where I cuted) to absorb moisture and prevent mold
-Closing the wound with home made tpe glue ( letting 0,250' on the surface to finish with a soldering iron)
-Solder the surface and finish with a heat gun.
-Finding tool to inspect and put back the tpe ball ( Maybe applying tpe glue to the tpe ball).

I'l take a hot shower and go on my mission.
Good ideas ....
Seriously, get some 3M 94 primer to use as glue rather than home made. We have had good results here (viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728) A total of $20 for a 8oz can to your door from Amazon. You can also make TPE paste to fill in non perfect wounds and later to aid in the TPE ball bonding.

Most solvents used to make TPE glue or TPE paste just make TPE mush. Looks good but never really sets up or makes a strong and flexible bond. A thick 3M TPE paste works well for internal work and deep or wide chasm repair, as long as the stress is relieved. Just remember ALL of these cure by evaporation, so give it sufficient time to cure. When you think it's ready, then wait a bit more to be sure.

As for acetone ... shudder ... some TPE is OK with it, other crinkle up, and if there is stress the TPE might unzip. I use it sparingly in very specific situations when using certain chemicals on TPE, but never as a general item on a doll. But that's just me.

Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...

I have trust in the 3m 94 primer (never used it tho). I'l make an order later today. As for the tpe glue, this is what I got atm. I remember that the recipe RGH told me was making really strong bond. This is not tpe taken from the actual doll but the base material (translucide tpe) doll makers are using to make doll. He sended me a little pouch of that tpe. I'm not arguing, I'l test the tpe glue and if it fail, I'l use 3m 94.
Dolls are awesome ! :glou:

- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤

Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.

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