Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Its been a month since I found that my doll leg was separating from the skeleton ( and maybe the back). I realized this morning that shes full of water. This is not pretty. From the picture, the white speck inside the turkey baster is baby powder. Shes two years old and ' in good shape'. So now I found shes full of rust and water. I dont think theres much I can do to save her. I can imagine that mold will grow to a point I could get very sick right ? I cant buy a new body, I'm just starting saving to buy my first house. I'l try to drain all the water, and see if I can at least stop potential harm ( theres should be mold already inside).
I dont know how to dispose of her body (I'm keeping the head). Maybe cut her body in piece and dump her? Oh god
What I have on hand atm is : vaseline, turkey baster, aquarium pump, shopvac, baby powder, baby oil, engine oil, and a soldering station if I need to close her up (need proper tip for the job tho)
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Since theres no mold so far, I think I can save her. I dont have the right tools atm to melt back the cut but at least I'l make her dry as much as possible today. I'l have to use only femdom and/or just stop having sex with her in the future, until I can afford a new body. Have a nice day. I'l post picture here and there on this thread to show the repair if successful and my investigation.
- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤
Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.
Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤
Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.
- BigJoeBuck
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
you can try to dry her out but rust is bad and mold is worse
you could try to cut holes in various places and somehow hang her to leak out
i ended up buying a new doll
rule no 1 do not ever imerse a doll in water
"all those moments will be lost in time like tears in rain"-roy batty
there are only three kinds of people those who make things happen those who watch things happen and those who wonder what happened
Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Oh what a horrible thing to deal with.noob1977 wrote:rule no 1 do not ever imerse a doll in water
I'm imagining this could also happen slowly over time if the TPE plug in the orifice isn't sealed properly. every time you rinse/wash it out a bit of water could make its way inside...
I honestly assumed the orifices would have a moulded "end" (like a cup shape rather than a tube shape). The little TPE ball that's shoved in there, which I discovered while trying to fix my doll, didn't even seem glued in place. Seemed like it wouldn't have stopped... erm... liquid from making its way inside, had I ever barebacked her.
- Wheezer
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Well it seems fixable, however I am a doll optimist - so keep that in mind. It depends on what level you want to go to with the repair.MrVitalic wrote:Hi my dear tdf friends. Its been a while since I logged to tdf. I was living a rather peaceful doll life.
Its been a month since I found that my doll leg was separating from the skeleton ( and maybe the back). I realized this morning that shes full of water. This is not pretty. From the picture, the white speck inside the turkey baster is baby powder. Shes two years old and ' in good shape'. So now I found shes full of rust and water. I dont think theres much I can do to save her. I can imagine that mold will grow to a point I could get very sick right ? I cant buy a new body, I'm just starting saving to buy my first house. I'l try to drain all the water, and see if I can at least stop potential harm ( theres should be mold already inside).
I dont know how to dispose of her body (I'm keeping the head). Maybe cut her body in piece and dump her? Oh god
What I have on hand atm is : vaseline, turkey baster, aquarium pump, shopvac, baby powder, baby oil, engine oil, and a soldering station if I need to close her up (need proper tip for the job tho)
First obviously is to get the water out. Then try to internally dry her as best you can (air pump, etc.) Next would be mold prevention. I use a water diluted bathroom cleaner for my fixed vagina dolls, you could use a similar solution. They are rated to kill all sorts of bad things, so mold is no issue to them. So once as dry as you can, then insert some of the cleaner to kill any existing mold. Let is sit then remove as best as you can. Any residual left inside would be a potential benefit as a potential mold preventer.
Next is identification of the water ingress point. Probably the vagina ball. Lots of heated posts about the dreaded ball but I understand they need it to seal up a manufacturing support point. Check with a cheap endoscope or by the old "jam your hand up her twat test" to see if it is missing. Some folks have inserted an air pump or syringe in the vagina to pump in air to check for leaks. Whatever works. Just find the leak.
There was one long post about fixing the TPE ball that gave the steps for that. Best to use a solution to cold weld or bond the TPE. If it were me I would put a ball of TPE that fit the hole and then bond it with either 3M 94 primer or 3M VHB primer. Pump in air to help it cure and wait. Heat might be a bear that deep in the love canal.
Cuts or nicks on the legs or other spots needed to either drain or assist drying can easily be bonded back by using either 3M 94 or 3M VHB primer to weld the TPE. Just make sure the join area is clean cut (easier final blending with no ragged edges) clean of debris and prep the area with alcohol prior to bonding.
You can get her all sealed up without heat, that's not a problem. Getting the water our, cleaning to prevent potential mold and finding and fixing the leak is the challenge.
FWIW my method of cleaning fixed vagina dolls it to arrange them vagina UP for cleaning by using liquids and syringe for insertion and extraction and letting gravity help. If you place her vagina down you have to use a forceful water stream to get all the way up inside. If the ball is fine but sealed "just OK" (rather than really good), that water jet force might cause it to fail. Final step is to fill the vagina to the top with the cleaner and let it dwell (wait) a bit before removal. If I come back in a few minutes and see the liquid level has dropped, then it is a good indication of a leak. Early indication means early and easier fix. Just a thought.
Good luck!
... W ...
Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Least aggressive of all and will respond really well to heat and abrasive paper further down the track should it be needed
Also readily available and pricewise compares favorably with the Indigo CWA product
The rust will come from water getting on the steel bolts joining the stainless tube sections together
Once you have as much of the water drained out as per Wheezer's suggestion of small nicks or holes, target the joints with small incisions will give access to the rusted stuff
Get some WD40 or rust inhibitor of your choice in there and then dry it off, any residual rust will hold the inhibitor in there preventing further corrosion
Then apply the gauze bandage that Arthur1960 referred to and go for closing the wounds up
There are some detailed posts about this but just remember to use toothpick quantities starting from the deepest part of the cuts and work to the outside, especially for the mid-section, it is quite thick
Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Going bareback with a doll is awesome, its a drug, I cant imagine something better except a real life bj. And yes, I wish the end of the vagina would be permanently closed down at the factory.Willus wrote:I honestly assumed the orifices would have a moulded "end" (like a cup shape rather than a tube shape). The little TPE ball that's shoved in there, which I discovered while trying to fix my doll, didn't even seem glued in place. Seemed like it wouldn't have stopped... erm... liquid from making its way inside, had I ever barebacked her.noob1977 wrote:rule no 1 do not ever imerse a doll in water
Thx for the advice.Wheezer wrote: First obviously is to get the water out. Then try to internally dry her as best you can (air pump, etc.) Next would be mold prevention. I use a water diluted bathroom cleaner for my fixed vagina dolls, you could use a similar solution. They are rated to kill all sorts of bad things, so mold is no issue to them. So once as dry as you can, then insert some of the cleaner to kill any existing mold. Let is sit then remove as best as you can. Any residual left inside would be a potential benefit as a potential mold preventer.
Next is identification of the water ingress point. Probably the vagina ball. Lots of heated posts about the dreaded ball but I understand they need it to seal up a manufacturing support point. Check with a cheap endoscope or by the old "jam your hand up her twat test" to see if it is missing. Some folks have inserted an air pump or syringe in the vagina to pump in air to check for leaks. Whatever works. Just find the leak.
There was one long post about fixing the TPE ball that gave the steps for that. Best to use a solution to cold weld or bond the TPE. If it were me I would put a ball of TPE that fit the hole and then bond it with either 3M 94 primer or 3M VHB primer. Pump in air to help it cure and wait. Heat might be a bear that deep in the love canal.
Its very thick . I'l try my soldering iron first with a long flat tip (need to buy). Its unfortunate that so far I cant access the tpe ball from the lower back or the belly. I dont want risking cutting one of her love canal.seagull wrote: The rust will come from water getting on the steel bolts joining the stainless tube sections together
Once you have as much of the water drained out as per Wheezer's suggestion of small nicks or holes, target the joints with small incisions will give access to the rusted stuff
Get some WD40 or rust inhibitor of your choice in there and then dry it off, any residual rust will hold the inhibitor in there preventing further corrosion
Then apply the gauze bandage that Arthur1960 referred to and go for closing the wounds up
There are some detailed posts about this but just remember to use toothpick quantities starting from the deepest part of the cuts and work to the outside, especially for the mid-section, it is quite thick
- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤
Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.
- Wheezer
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Cheers!
... W ...
Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
The plan :
-Buying wd 40 and apply it to the hips joint.
-Applying baby powder inside her leg (where I cuted) to absorb moisture and prevent mold
-Closing the wound with home made tpe glue ( letting 0,250' on the surface to finish with a soldering iron)
-Solder the surface and finish with a heat gun.
-Finding tool to inspect and put back the tpe ball ( Maybe applying tpe glue to the tpe ball).
I'l take a hot shower and go on my mission.
- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤
Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.
Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Thx a lot man!Wheezer wrote:Check here (https://www.dollforum.com/forum/viewtop ... 7&t=126029) for a good overview of plug repair. No heat needed, all cold chemicals. That might be the trick.
Cheers!
... W ...
- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤
Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.
- Wheezer
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Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Good ideas ....MrVitalic wrote:Can somebody remind what solvent was deadly for a doll ? Is this acetone ? I was friend with RGC and he did send me some pure tpe pellet last year so I can make my own tpe glue.
The plan :
-Buying wd 40 and apply it to the hips joint.
-Applying baby powder inside her leg (where I cuted) to absorb moisture and prevent mold
-Closing the wound with home made tpe glue ( letting 0,250' on the surface to finish with a soldering iron)
-Solder the surface and finish with a heat gun.
-Finding tool to inspect and put back the tpe ball ( Maybe applying tpe glue to the tpe ball).
I'l take a hot shower and go on my mission.
Seriously, get some 3M 94 primer to use as glue rather than home made. We have had good results here (viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728) A total of $20 for a 8oz can to your door from Amazon. You can also make TPE paste to fill in non perfect wounds and later to aid in the TPE ball bonding.
Most solvents used to make TPE glue or TPE paste just make TPE mush. Looks good but never really sets up or makes a strong and flexible bond. A thick 3M TPE paste works well for internal work and deep or wide chasm repair, as long as the stress is relieved. Just remember ALL of these cure by evaporation, so give it sufficient time to cure. When you think it's ready, then wait a bit more to be sure.
As for acetone ... shudder ... some TPE is OK with it, other crinkle up, and if there is stress the TPE might unzip. I use it sparingly in very specific situations when using certain chemicals on TPE, but never as a general item on a doll. But that's just me.
Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...
Re: Water inside doll, is she dead ?
Wheezer wrote:Good ideas ....MrVitalic wrote:Can somebody remind what solvent was deadly for a doll ? Is this acetone ? I was friend with RGC and he did send me some pure tpe pellet last year so I can make my own tpe glue.
The plan :
-Buying wd 40 and apply it to the hips joint.
-Applying baby powder inside her leg (where I cuted) to absorb moisture and prevent mold
-Closing the wound with home made tpe glue ( letting 0,250' on the surface to finish with a soldering iron)
-Solder the surface and finish with a heat gun.
-Finding tool to inspect and put back the tpe ball ( Maybe applying tpe glue to the tpe ball).
I'l take a hot shower and go on my mission.
Seriously, get some 3M 94 primer to use as glue rather than home made. We have had good results here (viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728) A total of $20 for a 8oz can to your door from Amazon. You can also make TPE paste to fill in non perfect wounds and later to aid in the TPE ball bonding.
Most solvents used to make TPE glue or TPE paste just make TPE mush. Looks good but never really sets up or makes a strong and flexible bond. A thick 3M TPE paste works well for internal work and deep or wide chasm repair, as long as the stress is relieved. Just remember ALL of these cure by evaporation, so give it sufficient time to cure. When you think it's ready, then wait a bit more to be sure.
As for acetone ... shudder ... some TPE is OK with it, other crinkle up, and if there is stress the TPE might unzip. I use it sparingly in very specific situations when using certain chemicals on TPE, but never as a general item on a doll. But that's just me.
Hope it helps.
Cheers!
... W ...
I have trust in the 3m 94 primer (never used it tho). I'l make an order later today. As for the tpe glue, this is what I got atm. I remember that the recipe RGH told me was making really strong bond. This is not tpe taken from the actual doll but the base material (translucide tpe) doll makers are using to make doll. He sended me a little pouch of that tpe. I'm not arguing, I'l test the tpe glue and if it fail, I'l use 3m 94.
- Marianne wm157b/head 159 from BCD ❤❤❤
Favorite song or mix atm, this change in a heartbeat.