Handy tools for smoothing and shaping

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:22 am

Anung Un Rama wrote: Sure, now you got a table for both, I just needed to ensure that we did not get dolly meltdowns from those that crank up the heat to 330 deg C

Anung

Thank you sir.
If or when I begin this project I will start at a reasonably low temp, and slowly work my way up. As we may know (i don't) Many TPE materials may differ from each other some. On my test materials, it seems so.
There is no silver bullet, I would not think anyway
Haste makes waste!!

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Tue Apr 24, 2018 8:45 pm

Here is what I am unclear on. Oil.
It's mineral oils saturation of area to be heated? then any tools we use, we coat mineral oil before working with molten TPE?
The cord on this air gun is some short

Sheesh!! do I have to dissect this thing now and put on a longer cord LOL... I'll live with it.

But this is what I'm unclear on. My solder gun tools I've made actually allow me to move TPE around quite nicely. In the case of groin, not certain how to tackle this, if it can be tackled.

Fantastic Plastic · Post by **Fantastic Plastic** » Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:05 pm

Well if it were me I would try to get the damage facing upwards to keep gravity from working against things.
Putting the leg/groin in a neutral non stressed position, maybe very slightly opposite in compression (very,very slightly)
Using the small tip on the heat gun, and having a smooth ball tool (ball will need to fit into crease of inner thigh) heat the TPE that you heated in a stretched state, it will mostly naturally start to flow back to its original state. Be very careful of over heating (I run my reflow gun on the lowest setting at a 100C as well as low on the airflow) carefully watch the material that it doesn’t overly melt, pool and run as a result.

What you are wanting to do at this point is to get the TPE to flow back together.
Use the ball tool to help shape the material into shape.
Work slowly, if things get too hot, stop and let it cool down and retry.

It’s definitely something that takes hand skills, but once you develop your own technique you’ll start getting more comfortable working with it.

FP

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:45 pm

Fantastic Plastic wrote:Well if it were me I would try to get the damage facing upwards to keep gravity from working against things.
Putting the leg/groin in a neutral non stressed position, maybe very slightly opposite in compression (very,very slightly)
Using the small tip on the heat gun, and having a smooth ball tool (ball will need to fit into crease of inner thigh) heat the TPE that you heated in a stretched state, it will mostly naturally start to flow back to its original state. Be very careful of over heating (I run my reflow gun on the lowest setting at a 100C as well as low on the airflow) carefully watch the material that it doesn’t overly melt, pool and run as a result.

What you are wanting to do at this point is to get the TPE to flow back together.
Use the ball tool to help shape the material into shape.
Work slowly, if things get too hot, stop and let it cool down and retry.

It’s definitely something that takes hand skills, but once you develop your own technique you’ll start getting more comfortable working with it.

FP

Hang her upside down?

The small tip for this gun isn't very small in my opinion. I'll have to make a smaller one. I did some pushing around on a test toy. pushed the ball on it GLOP!!... now I know how to make love handles

Even the smallest ball I have may be too big. But looks workable.
How much time do I have between putting down gun, and shaping with tool? Or is it like brazing? need to have both tools on the scene?

My test toy is taking a beating. It is unlikely I will get that looking "human" again

Fantastic Plastic · Post by **Fantastic Plastic** » Tue Apr 24, 2018 11:31 pm

Different temperatures, and different TPE blends all affect the time needed to melt and workable time.
Sorry for not clarification, my technique is to get all tears, voids, and fissures flowed together completely first. On deep spots you can use a low temp soldering iron to get into them without heating to much of the surrounding areas.

Doing this operation with a gun and iron will bring this area to a very warm and soft consistency.
At which time will briefly allow it to be “nudged” in to place.
Don’t wait to long, it will fracture possibly.
Your main goal at this point is to get the surface as flat and flaw free as possible.
If you have a bump, press on it with a ball, if it’s doesn’t move heat it slightly and try again.

When things are smooth, reflow the entire area with the heat gun.
Let cool completely.

Before touching it at all with anything. Dust the area lightly with talcum. Smooth it in, and it should be like new.

Also notes to remember;

1, Always wear a respirator, I use one you would use for auto painting. Plus room ventilation.

2, The Material has to be CLEAN, use pure mineral oil and clean the area completely!
Powder and other dirt, lint or what have you will cause blistering, frothing, and should be considered an impurity.

3, The area HAS TO BE in a completely relaxed state, as it was molded!

4, Work SLOWLY!

FP

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Tue Apr 24, 2018 11:53 pm

Fantastic Plastic wrote:
3, The area HAS TO BE in a completely relaxed state, as it was molded!

4, Work SLOWLY!

FP

These things look molded spread eagle some. According to a few pics on here of molds.
The person doing the fixing (or further damage) needs to be in a relaxed state too

I'll give it my best shot soon.
I'm understanding more what you are talking about though. Playing with higher stress, curved areas more challenging than a flat piece indeed!!

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Wed Apr 25, 2018 3:16 pm

progress-maybe.jpg

I'm taking my sweet time. Was able to get a small patch closed up mostly. Do I know what I'm doing? Hell No!!
I'm working with a low temp as possible. No smoke, so that is a good sign.
I'm not sure with the high heat I originally used to vaporize a small holes in her will fill or not.
I heated her to semi "fluid" near the top, and close her legs as tight as I could, and left it.
I'm working the way down the crotch.
No hurry, she's not needing to go anywhere

Hot air gun, do a nice job anyway when more experienced and confident. (Be a while for me)

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Wed Apr 25, 2018 6:14 pm

slow-going.jpg

It is slow going. Have not made it worse anyway. Those little holes are from too much heat from a sculptor hook/blade.
Probably if I'd not tried to fix it with lightly heating with a torch and tool, and used the hot air tool from the start.
Would probably be done without a hitch!

Indigo20 · Post by **Indigo20** » Thu Apr 26, 2018 5:01 am

It is nice to see how professional your repair turns out with the right gear and precise work.

Cut TPE in small pieces of 1mm, saturate this small pieces with a bit of mineral oil and melt the pieces into the small holes.
Afterwards do the smoothing again.

Press fine sandpaper on the heated TPE, therewith the shiny surface is gone and it brings back the structure.

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Thu Apr 26, 2018 7:25 pm

Indigo20 wrote:It is nice to see how professional your repair turns out with the right gear and precise work.

Cut TPE in small pieces of 1mm, saturate this small pieces with a bit of mineral oil and melt the pieces into the small holes.
Afterwards do the smoothing again.

Press fine sandpaper on the heated TPE, therewith the shiny surface is gone and it brings back the structure.

I removed her head and snipped a couple of slivers from neck. Washed in soap and water, then soaked in mineral oil for a bit. Melted a piece in there. It is
so so. The bottom half will be the true test, it looks like I nudged too much down there...ooops!! Every little speck of lint dust etc... a pain to keep away!!
I'm thinking if and when I get it looking pretty good. Glue some 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper to popsicle stick and soak with mineral oil for finishing. light touch of stick to it.
Thank you for the encouragement Indigo!

onward.jpg

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Fri Apr 27, 2018 2:46 pm

slow-as-snail.jpg

At my leisure I delve into the sorcery of molten mania, that is TPE repair.
I am not sure about the ridges, have tried to smooth the area some, but feel if I overwork any tool in there, I'm just going to make it bumpy, not smooth LOL
Able to fill the little craters anyway. Finishing will be a challenge. I'm not confident I'll get it looking professional

And to withstand any tension

Any words of wisdom from the masters????

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Fri Apr 27, 2018 7:10 pm

more-patience.jpg

Need more patience. Would like to complete this job.
Looks good from a distance

But close up uh, LOL
Just logging my progress here.
Sorry for all the pics.

Anung Un Rama · Post by **Anung Un Rama** » Fri Apr 27, 2018 11:15 pm

So with the right heat, and feathering (we discussed earlier) you can now look at blending so you get an even smooth finish.

When the semi molten tpe reaches this, you can either use lint free cotton cloth soaked in oil, or some 600 grain plus wet and dry lightly pressed onto the tpe to blend and remove the shiny finish (I discussed this further in the rubber cement topic). It is a fast and light touch required. I think Indigo also recommended the later technique as well.

Cheers Anung

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:45 am

Anung Un Rama wrote:So with the right heat, and feathering (we discussed earlier) you can now look at blending so you get an even smooth finish.

When the semi molten tpe reaches this, you can either use lint free cotton cloth soaked in oil, or some 600 grain plus wet and dry lightly pressed onto the tpe to blend and remove the shiny finish (I discussed this further in the rubber cement topic). It is a fast and light touch required. I think Indigo also recommended the later technique as well.

Cheers Anung

Getting the right temps have been a bit of a challenge. When I started, was using 100c, it took some time, but was working well.
When getting impatient, thats the time to call it a day with it.
Did try a 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper coated with mineral oil, and yes, that works to get rid of the gloss.

Still feel I can make it better, before putting finish on it. Hope I'm not wrong LOL

RGC_0767 · Post by **RGC_0767** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 8:35 pm

FunFunFun.jpg

FuN FuN FuN.... Am I going backwards? does it look worse? I've gone cross eyed. Have not messed with this for a few days. Did a bit this eve, Looks like I'm closing in on it. Wont be as nice as new, but wont look too bad.
That little ripple there 1/2 way down is pissing me off

This takes practice.