The Doll Forum

Always keep in mind that doll manufacturers make dolls, not precision instruments

To add some realism to this topic.
This is how it may look like in case you had messed up.
So keep your expectations low, people.

Putting more details: actually it started quite good, I used utility knife blade for welding. But then I had accidentally made a slight lateral cut and it was a beginning of the end. TPE tissue is under strain on a back so it tears sidewards instantly.

seagull wrote:Always keep in mind that doll manufacturers make dolls, not precision instruments

Better keep in mind how much money you had paid for that "not precision instrument".

The technique Wheezer uses with paste will fix that not precision instrument

mark81 wrote:To add some realism to this topic.
This is how it may look like in case you had messed fucking up.
So keep your expectations low, people.

Putting more details: actually it started quite good, I used utility knife blade for welding. But then I had accidentally made a slight lateral cut and it was a beginning of the end. TPE tissue is under strain on a back so it tears sidewards instantly.

Better keep in mind how much money you had paid for that "not precision instrument".

That would be easy to fix with heated tea spoon. Heat a tea spoon with gas burner and use it to sculpt the skin into its original form. Takes some sculpting skills though. If you are going to use this method, practice with a piece of TPE beforehand.

Cheers!

Sili

Siliconeman wrote:That would be easy to fix with heated tea spoon. Heat a tea spoon with gas burner and use it to sculpt the skin into its original form. Takes some sculpting skills though. If you are going to use this method, practice with a piece of TPE beforehand.

Thanks for your advise Siliconeman!

But situation is not that easy: any heating makes cavity make itself bigger and deeper.
Definitely there should be some extra material added. Maybe will take some from a back of a head...

Of all the techniques discussed on the forum, the TPE/3M 94 Primer paste is the least aggressive of them all, so far

seagull wrote:Of all the techniques discussed on the forum, the TPE/3M 94 Primer paste is the least aggressive of them all, so far

This one? Thanks.
viewtopic.php?p=1765800

mark81
Yup, that's one of the numerous posts Wheezer has made
Wheezer has commented on nearly 2 dozen uses for this stuff that has been or is about to be tested

mark81 wrote:To add some realism to this topic.
This is how it may look like in case you had messed up.
So keep your expectations low, people.

Putting more details: actually it started quite good, I used utility knife blade for welding. But then I had accidentally made a slight lateral cut and it was a beginning of the end. TPE tissue is under strain on a back so it tears sidewards instantly.

Yup you have deep fissure repair in a stress area. The common wisdom is that you are befudged. Unfortunately I had not read that when I came up with methods to do repairs in stress areas. For a start, look at Stress Crack Repairs HERE (viewtopic.php?f=229&t=131728&p=1786105&#p1786105).

In your case you might want to fill the deep open parts with TPE chunks or bits to start. Then add a thick paste to fill it in. A thick paste has LESS primer which leads to a lower chance of the TPE cut expanding. If you see it start, then STOP and let the paste cure to solid TPE. Then resume. The solid cured TPE will hold the stress for the rest of the repair.

Prior to the back fix you might want to remove the current debris. Remove some TPE to made a damage area that is smooth and flush. Easier to add paste to bring up and smooth than to use heat to bring down the imperfections. Probably two or three small, gentle applications, depending on how perfect you want the final result to be. You might want to do the final smoothing with pure 3M 94 primer and fan brush to avoid heat.

Depending on the final level of imperfection, you can always cover it with a small back tattoo. The thread covers adding those also.

Cheers!
... W ...

Wheezer,
thanks for info.

But I must say there is a conceptual question. I bought my doll to enjoy it and not to waste my life for maintaining it.
I mean I'm not sure that joy she gives me compensates all the frustration and efforts of owning her.
So for now I'll leave the things as it is.
Some times it's better to stop than continue.

mark81 wrote:Wheezer,
thanks for info.

But I must say there is a conceptual question. I bought my doll to enjoy it and not to waste my life for maintaining it.
I mean I'm not sure that joy she gives me compensates all the frustration and efforts of owning her.
So for now I'll leave the things as it is.
Some times it's better to stop than continue.

That's a delicate balance point that you will need to reach and feel comfortable about.
At one end of the sex toys is a simple tube like a flesh light. It works, is inexpensive, is easy to maintain but not too visually realistic.
At the other end is a full size doll. Expensive, visually stimulating, requires time and maintenance.
Somewhere in the middle is your comfort zone.

As long your doll has the functional parts to get your engine going (insertion areas, nooks and crannies, appendages or whatever) then overlook or deal with the other parts that might not be perfect. No different than ignoring a flaw on a real woman whose other bits and pieces really rock.

Just find your zone and enjoy!

Cheers!
... W ...

mark81, dolls are a fairly fragile and expensive sex toy that will require maintenance from time to time
Usually just cleaning at the start and if the skeleton is good then finger pokes will eventually need repair, after that, excessively loose joints or splits in the soft material of the doll

A new car is designed to give a period free of major maintenance, to be enjoyed etc.
Unless it is traded in and replaced with a newer model, the owner will be looking an expensive period of repair of components that have reached the end of their service life

Same with these toys

David919191 wrote:Wow ....... well done. There is no way I could attempt that. I would have to take the expensive option of buying a new doll

Same lol. His repair was quite impressive though.

Siliconeman wrote:Hi!

Yes, any kind of epoxy would have made the connection even better. There may now be sight movement with repaired part. Epoxy would possibly had set it to be more rigid.

hey i have a question, this exact same thing just happened to my AF doll and i think this is the only fix is your solution. is there any other possible way to cut it without a lathe or a alternative? i dont have the ability to cut something like that. i would be willing to give you a few bucks if you could cut one for me and mail it, maybe as a kit if you can throw in the clamps and stuff to.

also i made a cut in the stomach just to see what was going on. i feel this was a bad idea because the cut had to be really thick going from the top. do you think i should seal the stomach cut and do a back cut instead to operate?

Definitely reseal the stomach with a cold weld adhesive, Indigo's CWA or one of the 3M products
Going through the back is preferred as less material to cut

If you have access to a vice, file, disc grinder or metal hacksaw, then a Tee piece can be split and clamped around the damaged section
The result immobilizes that joint but it will be a solid skeleton again