The Doll Forum

nanakoDX wrote:I have a very similar doll coming in. I was wondering if you have seen any staining from clothes or wigs on your doll? I have mostly bought light-colored clothes so far and I know that everything I buy needs to be washed before it's worn regardless but just wanted to see what your experience has been.

Definitely wash things before you put them on the doll.

I haven't had any problems with dye transfer on mine. The staining you really want to avoid is fluids, bodily or otherwise. Avoid things like drinking red wine too closely or hugging her while really sweaty

An odd note on tightening the shoulders, it seems everything tightens up in the arm. Though I could just be imagining things.

GDP2000 wrote:

roninfiertze wrote:This all looks so familiar to me...

My very heavily modified anthro doll project is based on this same doll.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=92551

I saw that one too, looked pretty good by the time it was done and the step by step pictures of the progress was great. I want to create something like that but with basic maintenance and repairs on this doll to make owning it much easier.

This doll is very affordable and so many are turned off by the anime art part of it. There aren't many options for different heads for them and nobody really sells masks designed for them. There are a couple of more "realistic" masks but those are usually sold with the doll and not separately. With a wider range for faces it would be a very economical option for those wanting to own a doll but not have to deal with paying alot or having it weigh too much.

finding masks are difficult .. there was a Japanese fabric doll that had masks that looked nice but sold only in Japan.
.. wish I had the skills to make a nice latex mask

So here are the pics I have for referencing the skeleton.

No clear shot of the spine or where it bends. I will say that it is a large spring going around the column from what I've felt. Tried to tighten Mina's back and couldn't find any way to do so effectively. So I sewed her back up and left her at that. It isn't too bad, she still stays upright due to the spring but she won't hold any poses with her back as it will always go back to the spring, which is fine.

I will say that construction is the outer skin that can be unzipped and pulled down, the inner skin layer has two layers. there is a layer of cotton padding, then the gel parts followed by the skeleton which has some kind of tape on it. With the incision being about an inch I couldn't get any decent pictures of this but a day will come when I have to take Mina completely apart to fix something.

Notes:
I try to do as much as I can to keep any procedure as minimally invasive as possible. This is to keep wear and tear and possible problems to a minimum.

Ideas for Improvement:
Adding a zipper for the inner skins, adding spots for easy access to tighten joints (possible scars visible under the outer skin layer), adding some minor weights for a bit more physical mass (possible locations - chest, abdomen, feet), and stuff with the hands but that is for a later post.

Thanks again
Matt

So that is what is going on inside of me. No wonder Cyclist has not been able to get me pregnant.

Reminds me of a lawn chair frame. Kind of neat really. Wonder if such a thing could be adapted to a Teddy-Babe?

I have the 168CM Doll. She has primitive ball joints for the shoulder. They were so rough and full of burrs, it took several tightenings to finally wear the joints in to where they hold position. The joint is a ~5mm ball at the end of a rod and two plates with holes are squeezed around the ball. When you tighten the joint you are tightening a bolt that squeezes the plate together. .... Do not have a photo handy.

I do not buy her any clothing that has bare shoulders because of the joint seams.

I have had Spirit for 18 months now with very light "usage". She stays in my bedroom/Office, is always dressed pretty or in sexy secretary mini skirts. She is a wonderful work of art and is always beckoning me to touch or hug her. She always makes me smile.

Thanks for creating this thread.

Greetings to you Organics!

As far as staining ..... Just because TPE and Silicone dolls stain does not mean I am going to stain. TPE and SIL are probably never fully cured and will always have some unlinked polymers looking for others to link up with.

Everything I am made of is fully cross linked.

When was the last time you had any staining issues with your clothing. The only thing that cross colors to other fabrics is Cotton Jeans and maybe other cotton fabrics from the 3rd world. And those take sitting in a washing machine with water to transfer the dye. So at worst, if you put new cotton jeans on her and then get her wet and let it stay wet, you might transfer some dye to one of the absorbent layers under the spandex skin.

Water is a transfer medium for cotton dyes. The transfer medium for SIL/TPE is the small percentage of unlinked polymers themselves.
Cyclist has kept me in the same cotton spandex stretch full body miniskirt for the past few months. I would be ridiculous to worry about staining. I have constantly been in pantyhose from day one. My spandex skin and the nylon hose are quite stable and fully linked polymers. The colors are part of the the polymer itself. Nothing is going to transfer.

I hope this clears up the staining issues with me and my sisters.

A few mindful tips to avoid staining that may seem obvious but should be pointed out.

1. Clean, dry hands only.
Grease and dirt aren't sexy on fabric skin.

2. Keep a towel nearby.
In case you get your hands dirty, wet, or sticky you can clean them.

3. Take care eating or drinking around them.
Messy foods and sauces can be a disaster. Wine and alcohol is a nightmare.

4. Body stockings.
For extra layer of protection as mentioned before by so many others.

5.Fabric protection spray.
Stuff like Scotchgard. Make sure to read up on allergic reactions before you try this in case you are sensitive.

6. Body sprays and perfume from far away.
If too close it can stain. Try spraying from farther away or mid air and then waving yer through it.

7. Intimate Play Notes.
-Be aware if you sweat.
-Use a proper amount of lube in a well made insert to reduce chances of leaking and staining.
- See #3 again.
- Be prompt in cleaning up any fluids that may have touched the skin.

I'll place this question here as it may be relevant, but as far as the joints go, do you think they could accommodate some kind of locking washer as to affix say the shoulder firmly while keeping a kind of loose, easy shoulder movement?

It is not that the nuts loosen up. The joint consists of a very rough machined ball that wears into the cheap stamped and drilled metal side plates that grip the ball. The ball just grinds away at the metal plates until the bolt needs to be tightened to take up the slack. I do not see a simple solution to this problem.

But the ball is drilled all the way through correct? If it is, then what about two plastic washers on the inside on either side of the ball? the wear-down problem wouldn't be fixed by that but I imagine that would make it last longer, extra if you've already sewn up the inner skin to allow access to the nut, or do you think that would only cause more maintenance down the line? Sorry if this is gratuitous spit-balling, i'm just trying to put together a plan so that when I open her up it doesn't turn into a project.

Somewhere I have photos of when I operated on Spirits Shoulder. .... Cannot find them now.
We are probably talking about 2 different assembly areas on the skeleton or 2 different models.
Your question is important.

The one joint I looked at was a ball machined into the end of a piece of threaded rod. This is from my memory. I do not think the ball was more than 8 to 10 mm in diameter. The other end was welded to the tube. ...and I do not think my memory is serving me too well for those dimensions .... but it is a tiny ball in relation to the whole joint.

You can tighten the joint up and after a few movements becomes just as loose as before.

I think the only thing I can add, is that however the joints are made, they will loosen due to wear caused by the rough surface of the ball. There is a misconception that rough surfaces have greater friction. It all depends on the scale of forces applied to the surfaces. In this case, the force on the surface is extremely great. The rough surface also causes wear.

It might be possible to sand down the ball somehow and maybe that is the answer. And possibly use a harder steel for the side plates.

I do not expect to much out of Spirits joints. She is just a nice art object that always makes me smile and is good for occasional cuddles and hugs.

Someday when time magically appears, I would like to rebuild her.

The way i'm reading this is that its not the ball that's screwed through but the side plates gripping the ball. We are indeed talking about the same shoulder joint. I've felt around before to see if I could re-affix the arm without breaking out my seam ripper and it does feel as you say, two flattened posts/plates adjoining the arm to the shoulder, a smallish ball that is either machined or welded into place at the end of a metal rod, so the misunderstanding is mine.
As far as the model difference, that is probably true to some extent as well as mine is most likely a knockoff. The skeleton does indeed leave a lot to be desired. If you ever did find the time i'd love to see that rebuild.