3M 94 Primer – Application as a TPE Glue / Cold Weld

DrDemento789 · Post by **DrDemento789** » Sat Feb 06, 2021 6:05 pm

seagull wrote:DrDemento789
You did what on an office chair?
You deserve a medal and a reprimand for attempting it

I'm pretty boring it was cowgirl position but the sides of her foot must have rubbed against the chair. If the primer doesn't hold I'll probably end up having to paste the hole but if the soft tpe is that easy to damage I could see why I got holes in the feet from shipping.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Sun Feb 07, 2021 6:09 am

Soft TPE is easy to damage, handling with gloves is part of the manufacturing process
For owners, avoid wearing bling when handling your dolls
Belt buckles, buttons and studs can also do their thing to a doll

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Sun Feb 07, 2021 9:09 pm

I have to admit, I am so grateful for Wheezer for sharing this information with us. Had to tighten Xiel's right ankle bolt again. The one that allows the foot to move side to side loosened again, so he couldn't hold his weight and fell on me again last week. So I cut open his ankle... again, tightened the bolt again.....

After the bolt was tightened I sealed him back up with 3M 94 primer and then once it was set used the heated spoon to smooth out the edges of the wound and now it looks good as new. Took me all of 45 minutes total, and that included the time it took to dig out the correct crescent wrenches, and cleaning the wound site before and after.

Now my guy is fixed and able to stand on his own two feet again. If it loosens again I am going to add Lockit and his foot will just not be able to move side to side.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Mon Feb 08, 2021 1:28 am

Loctite is essential if a repaired joint is going to be subject to further movement
BUT 45 minutes for the repair, where were you when I needed a worker on my team

DrDemento789 · Post by **DrDemento789** » Tue Feb 09, 2021 7:25 pm

Just a few projects that I have tackled lately with the use of the 94 primer. I stated before it does seem to be a permanent fix if it's in a non-stressed area especially if you coat the final product in a layer of two of pure primer. Sarah's elbow I wasn't really sure if it would melt violently in a stressed area so I use the heat gun to seal in the paste. It looks pretty blended almost brand new! the foot I didn't even use a heat gun but I'm surprised that after it completely flash dried it looks almost invisible.

Finally after 2 months I had to touch up Erica's vagina again. The paste on the top wasn't really doing much except stretching and breaking from having to put in the insert so I removed it and reinforced the bottom with a bit of thinner paste to fill in the cracks and mend the sides to the body.

Love this stuff it's so easy to use and is almost a permanent fix!

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Tue Feb 09, 2021 8:33 pm

DrDemento789 wrote:Just a few projects that I have tackled lately with the use of the 94 primer. I stated before it does seem to be a permanent fix if it's in a non-stressed area especially if you coat the final product in a layer of two of pure primer. Sarah's elbow I wasn't really sure if it would melt violently in a stressed area so I use the heat gun to seal in the paste. It looks pretty blended almost brand new! the foot I didn't even use a heat gun but I'm surprised that after it completely flash dried it looks almost invisible.

Finally after 2 months I had to touch up Erica's vagina again. The paste on the top wasn't really doing much except stretching and breaking from having to put in the insert so I removed it and reinforced the bottom with a bit of thinner paste to fill in the cracks and mend the sides to the body.

Love this stuff it's so easy to use and is almost a permanent fix!

I know right!!! 3M primer is the bomb!!! It makes doll repairs and modifications possible but easily done, once you get used to how to work with it..

Dr. Demento! Great repairs. If you ever decide you want your girl's hooha cleaned up and resculpted let me know and I will walk you through the process. Of course you will have to get used to using a heated spoon and other metal implements, but we can have her looking good as new.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Tue Feb 09, 2021 9:38 pm

Good to see a core of owners skilling up with this 3M stuff for repairs (and other things)

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Wed Feb 10, 2021 8:29 pm

seagull wrote:Good to see a core of owners skilling up with this 3M stuff for repairs (and other things)

Yes indeed!

So I have lost what little mind I have left and am going to be ordering another doll is a couple of weeks. And he is going to be made in a dark red color, just like I want... I am so excited!!! Of course I am ordering the heaviest damn doll being made right now, so getting the weight down is no longer going to be a theoretical but will have to be a reality. Of course now that I have everything I need to make the damn inserts winter finally decides to hit.. The thing is without this primer there would be no way to do what I am planning on doing. I maybe cutting off butt cheeks this weekend since it is too cold to do anything else.

Look I was going to start with gutting chest and abdomen but with no insert that will have to wait, so I will start with butts and legs.

I plan to video tape every process, to share with everyone. These will definitely not be for the weak of heart. JS

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Thu Feb 11, 2021 4:18 pm

And he is going to be made in a dark red color
As in Lilith red from Anung's stable?

muesky6969 · Post by **muesky6969** » Thu Feb 11, 2021 8:17 pm

seagull wrote:And he is going to be made in a dark red color
As in Lilith red from Anung's stable?

Yes, but a little darker. I spoke with Anung about Lilith and he mentioned that he hadn't taking in account for how the powdering would lighten her skin. So I am going with a darker color of red to compensate for the powder.

I was looking online last night and there is a company on Etsy who sells cloven hooves you attach to a pair of high heels after cutting the heel off. Pretty sure I can make a set instead of spending over $200 for a set.. So my guy will have hooves as well.. So good!!!

The only issue is I don't know if I want to go with black hair or white hair... I may have to wait till he is home to decide...

Kira-sama · Post by **Kira-sama** » Mon Mar 08, 2021 7:14 am

Is it ok to just apply the primer by itself without trying to make a paste from TPE mixed in?

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Mon Mar 08, 2021 4:05 pm

For unstressed repairs, perfect
Where the TPE is lightly stretched (stressed) then a thick paste will do the job
Repairs should never be attempted on highly stressed TPE, unless you like seeing your doll unzip

Kira-sama · Post by **Kira-sama** » Mon Mar 08, 2021 7:31 pm

seagull wrote:For unstressed repairs, perfect
Where the TPE is lightly stretched (stressed) then a thick paste will do the job
Repairs should never be attempted on highly stressed TPE, unless you like seeing your doll unzip :(

So, does primer 94 actually weld the TPE together or is it more of an adhesion promoter (as it is called)? I tried gluing two pieces of TPE last night (pure primer) and 19 hours later it came apart with under minor to medium tearing force. I dunked the bottom of one of the pieces in the primer can and then pushed it down on top of the second piece for no more than a few seconds.

Also, another question. Are masks really necessary? Saw several videos today where vinyl wrappers, boat decal installers, and even a 3M representative were not using a mask. The 3M rep and vinyl wrapper were using a gel pen (or the liquid version/both, can't remember which one the wrapper was using haha) applicator instead of the liquid version, so I don't know if it's less toxic.

gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Mon Mar 08, 2021 11:40 pm

Kira-sama, I did the same tests you did with primer 94 and with the same results. But this "minor to medium tear force" is good enough to close most cuts on the TPE. But as reported by seagull, this may not be enough for a stress area.

I have never used the paste made with the primer 94. But when I performed breast surgery on one of my dolls, I glued the breasts back into place with the primer 94 (which could have been be enough in my opinion) but I fused the scar with a soldering iron the next day for extra care. This technique leaves a more noticeable scar.

viewtopic.php?p=1858801#p1858801

And I realized that it was a bit tricky to make a nice fusion. It is necessary to stretch the TPE slightly before passing the soldering iron and to compact the TPE slightly after melting. Here is a photo to demonstrate this method.

And I strongly suggest using the mask and working in a ventilated area. These videos were probably shot in a painting workshop or a finishing workshop equipped with a powerful aeration system or on a vacuum table.

This is my two-cent contribution. Hoping to help a little.

Cheers!

: Scar Fusion .JPG (141.3 KiB) Viewed 553 times

1) Move the soldering iron slowly to allow time for the TPE to begin to liquify anough and deeply around the iron.
(Important to stay in the axis of the repair so as not to widen the scar.)

2) After fusion, apply light pressure to close the scar.
(When the liquified TPE begins to rise to the surface, stop and hold at this position for a few seconds for the TPE to solidify.)