Breast Surgery

gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:08 am

I gave my Caroline brand new boobs for Christmas! She is now the happiest girl in the world!

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Caroline is an YL135D doll purchased in June 2020. With the gel breasts, her supposed D cup has been puffed up to a G cup! I find it too big for my personal taste, especially since they have sagged and deformed quite a bit over time. In addition, the gel ball moved inside the breast and produced an almost liquid sound. I had to do something for her...

...but I had to find a method with a high success rate! Eliminate all operations that are risky or require high artistic/sculptural skills. I hesitated for several days before starting the work, but once started, I was surprised to see how well everything was going! Of course, if I had to do it again, there would be several little things I would do differently, but overall, I'm very happy with the result!

And I would also like to say that English is not my first language. I use a translator to read and write. This is why there may be vocabulary errors in a few sentences! I hope it will still be understandable for you!

Here are all the tools I used for this MOD.

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:11 am

STEP #1: Create tools.

Since my artistic skills are close to zero, I'm sure I'm going to struggle to make symmetrical boobs. So I created small tools to help me in this task!

a) Using a contour gauge, I made 2 templates for the contour of the breast. One in the vertical direction and another in the horizontal direction. (Photos #005 to #008)

b) I also made another template representing the outline of the rib cage just below the breast. (Photos #008 to #010)

c) In order to increase the chances of getting two symmetrical breasts, I preferred to build them on a modified cookie sheet. (Photos #011 to #013)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:15 am

Step #2: Breast removal

When cutting out the breasts, I also had to pull the nipples up about 3 inches (75 mm). The method used consists of decentering the nipple on the piece of skin of one breast which is then turned over and installed on the other breast. (Photos #014) There is another method that I think is easier...but I'll explain it later.

a) Draw the outline of the breasts you want to keep. Do your best to make it as symmetrical as possible. Carefully cut this line maintaining an angle of approximately 90 degrees with the surface. The final angle of this cutout will be adjusted later. Save the part of the breast with the nipple for later reinstallation. (Photos #015 to #019)

b) Only the lower portion of the rest of the breasts should be removed. Draw the lines where indicated in the photos. Cut out these lines following the outline of the doll's rib cage. (Photos #020 to #023)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:18 am

Step #3: Preparation of the rib cage

a) Using the homemade thickness gauge (3/8 inch : 10 mm), draw a line on the upper remaining part of the breasts. Carefully cut the inner part maintaining (3/8 inch : 10 mm) thickness over the entire outer surface down to the base. (Photos #024 to #028)

b) Using the homemade thickness gauge, dig the entire surface of the breasts (3/8 inch : 10 mm) deeper than the adjacent skin surface. (Photos #029 to #031)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:20 am

Step #4: Reconstruction of the rib cage

a) For the following steps, work in a ventilated area and wear a mask protecting you from toxic fumes. (Photo #032)

b) Using TPE cut into small pieces, completely fill the breast cavity using a hot air gun or soldering iron. (Photos #033 to #039)

c) For final touch-ups, miniature iron is ideal. (Photos #040 to #041)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:22 am

Step #5: Building new breasts

a) Thin breast skin to (3/8 inch : 10 mm). (Photo #042)

b) Using the templates, build the two breasts as symmetrically as possible with the remaining TPE. (Photos #043 to #045)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:25 am

Step #6: Installation of new breasts

a) The underside of the new breasts must be smoothed to properly fit the surface of the rib cage before being located as precisely as possible using sewing pins. Use the skin of the breasts and especially the nipples as a reference. (Photos #046 to #048)

b) Using a hot air gun or soldering iron, secure the breasts in place and solder the edges in a smooth transition. (Photos #048 to #051)

c) Weld the upper skin and its edges to the new breast. A rolled up washcloth can be used to apply even pressure. (Photos #052 & #053)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:29 am

Step #7: Suturing of the skin

a) To carry out the sutures, it is preferable to use a very fine point and always very clean. Contamination from charred TPE is the enemy of an invisible suture! You can use isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel to clean the tip, but be careful, it's hot! (Photos #054 & #055)

b) Before soldering, make sure that the skins are well positioned and well pressed against each other. (Photo #056)

c) To start, you only need to suture the middle half of the skin to maintain access to seal the skin to the breast structure. Slowly pass the tip of the soldering iron between the two skins, pressing them against each other. A little melted TPE should come out of the scar as you hold them for about 30 seconds, until the suture cools. (Photos #057 & #058)

d) There must be spot welds between the inner skin and the breast structure in at least four places around each breast. (Photo #059)

e) Then close all the skin, ending on the outer side. (Photos #060 to #063)

f) Allow the skin to cool for a few minutes and check the strength of all sutures.

g) Apply baby oil to the entire surface and let dry five to six hours before the next work session. (Photos #064 & #065)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:32 am

Step #8: Primary smoothing of sutures.

Note on using baby oil: Personally, I almost never use baby oil with hot tools. On the other hand, I apply a good layer of baby oil at the end of each work session which I leave to dry five to six hours before the next work session.

a) The iron must be at 140 degrees Celsius and wait until it has reached this temperature before you start using it.

b) Place the iron above the skin scar to barely touch it.

c) Do not move for a few seconds until a film of melted TPE appears around the edge of the iron.

d) Without applying pressure, move slowly along the scar, allowing time for the melted TPE film to form as you go.

e) Very slight rotations of the iron can be made, as if to bring the melted TPE towards the center of the scar, but do not try to repair the surroundings! This first pass should only be used to melt the TPE bump created by the solder.

f) Apply baby oil to the entire surface and let dry five to six hours before the next work session.

(Photos #066 & #068)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:37 am

Step #9: Continue to smooth the sutures and even out the contours.

-The following operations should be repeated on all scars three to four times. (At intervals of approximately six hours)
-Don't try to rebuild everything in one pass!

a) The iron must be at 140 degrees Celsius and wait until it has reached this temperature before you start using it.

b) In all the following passes, always start with the scars and move the iron from left to right very slowly to always have a film of melted TPE under the iron. (It is the gradual mixing of this liquefied TPE that will make the scar disappear) But a minimum of four passes will be necessary.

c) Any defects on the surrounding skin can be repaired using the same method. By passing several times over the same place and always in the same direction, it is possible to flatten a bump or dig a valley by moving the melted TPE film. But all this is done very slowly and without exerting any pressure on the iron.

d) Apply baby oil to the entire surface and let dry five to six hours before the next work session.

PASS #2 (Photos #069 to #073)

PASS #3 (Photos #074 to #078)

PASS #4 (Photos #079 & #080)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:39 am

Step #10: Last passes, final touches!

a) To smooth out the last small imperfections, such as the small ripples left by the cooling of the liquefied TPE, the use of the large heat gun can give good results. (Photos #081 & #082)

b) For small remaining imperfections, using baby oil and faster ironing can also work well. (Photo #083)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:42 am

Work progress and final result.

a) Work progress with dates and times. (Photos #084 to #086)

b) Final result. (Photos #087 to #089)

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gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:45 am

Before and after!

(Photos #090 to #097)

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...The End.

Cheers!

Wheezer · Post by **Wheezer** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:54 am

Superb !!
Absolutely well done results and an EXCELLENT write up.
I especially like your layout and listing of tooling, drawing the plans and templates and methods of execution.
The heat smoothing wand is a tool that I particularly like for TPE repair and one that has not yet been shown too much.

Much thanks for sharing.
Cheers!
... W ...

gogodolls · Post by **gogodolls** » Sat Dec 31, 2022 4:19 am

Wheezer wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 3:54 am Superb !!
Absolutely well done results and an EXCELLENT write up.
I especially like your layout and listing of tooling, drawing the plans and templates and methods of execution.
The heat smoothing wand is a tool that I particularly like for TPE repair and one that has not yet been shown too much.

Much thanks for sharing.
Cheers!
... W ...

Thanks for the nice comments Wheezer! Coming from you, it is all the more appreciated as I know that you do wonders with TPE and that you are a technical reference for all of us on TDF.

I took my time to write all this because English is not my mother tongue and using google translator, he ended up making me good sentences!

Cheers!