Thank you seagull. I discovered the technique as I did the MOD.seagull wrote:gogodolls
Wow! That is an impressive technique
Does stretching the TPE while soldering fuse it together in a more stretched out state so it's harder to tear? Also, I would rather use a soldering iron, but it's hard to get a good solder in the vagina in the deeper section and it seems to me like the TPE is being evaporated (too much heat?) making it easier to tear than before.gogodolls wrote:Kira-sama, I did the same tests you did with primer 94 and with the same results. But this "minor to medium tear force" is good enough to close most cuts on the TPE. But as reported by seagull, this may not be enough for a stress area.
I have never used the paste made with the primer 94. But when I performed breast surgery on one of my dolls, I glued the breasts back into place with the primer 94 (which could have been be enough in my opinion) but I fused the scar with a soldering iron the next day for extra care. This technique leaves a more noticeable scar.
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And I realized that it was a bit tricky to make a nice fusion. It is necessary to stretch the TPE slightly before passing the soldering iron and to compact the TPE slightly after melting. Here is a photo to demonstrate this method.
And I strongly suggest using the mask and working in a ventilated area. These videos were probably shot in a painting workshop or a finishing workshop equipped with a powerful aeration system or on a vacuum table.
This is my two-cent contribution. Hoping to help a little.
Cheers! :glou: 1) Move the soldering iron slowly to allow time for the TPE to begin to liquify anough and deeply around the iron.
(Important to stay in the axis of the repair so as not to widen the scar.)
2) After fusion, apply light pressure to close the scar.
(When the liquified TPE begins to rise to the surface, stop and hold at this position for a few seconds for the TPE to solidify.)
It is precisely to bring it back TPE to a neutral state that it must be stretched slightly before fusion and compressed slightly after fusion.Kira-sama wrote:
Does stretching the TPE while soldering fuse it together in a more stretched out state so it's harder to tear? Also, I would rather use a soldering iron, but it's hard to get a good solder in the vagina in the deeper section and it seems to me like the TPE is being evaporated (too much heat?) making it easier to tear than before.
So, I'm guessing to do a vagina repair, pure primer is used along with an extra piece of TPE to expand the vagina area so it doesn't tear again and the paste is used to make the TPE piece itself and acts as a filler (which can also be easily torn with minor to medium force?).
Guess soldering iron repairs will only be used in non-stress areas from now on with my dolls haha.gogodolls wrote:It is precisely to bring it back TPE to a neutral state that it must be stretched slightly before fusion and compressed slightly after fusion.Kira-sama wrote:
Does stretching the TPE while soldering fuse it together in a more stretched out state so it's harder to tear? Also, I would rather use a soldering iron, but it's hard to get a good solder in the vagina in the deeper section and it seems to me like the TPE is being evaporated (too much heat?) making it easier to tear than before.
So, I'm guessing to do a vagina repair, pure primer is used along with an extra piece of TPE to expand the vagina area so it doesn't tear again and the paste is used to make the TPE piece itself and acts as a filler (which can also be easily torn with minor to medium force?).
The slight compression is important to restore mass to the TPE after being in an almost liquid state.
(Without this compression, the TPE was easy to tear. For this reason, I had to redo a section at the beginning.)
And I totally agree with you, the inside of the vagina is surely a no-go zone with the soldering iron because it is not easy to control the fusion.
Cheers! :glou:
thanks i gave it a good wash and dry before hand. so far it seems like it bonded pretty good. i had quite the tear. the leg on the doll is broke so it really causes alot of vagina tear that i have to keep repairing when he leg flops over and pulls. so far its made a seal with soaking the tooth pick and applying. just put another thin layer on. not sure how durable it is yet or how good it will hold. it does seem to cause a bit of discoloration so if thats a issue to people who use it for photographs id look more into itgogodolls wrote:I think the primer 94 should be enough to do the repair.
But for better efficiency, I also think it would be good to clean the inside of the cut with isopropyl alcohol and allow it to dry
to remove traces of oil (2X) before proceeding with the bonding. (I think oily surfaces do not stick well)
Ultra-fine artist brush can be used for this kind of work.
Hope this helps you a bit.
Cheers!
AFAICS it works better the longer you leave it before stressing it, and it works better as a paste with the same TPE the doll is made from mixed into it. In my first tests with little chunks, after a day, it didn't seem to hold very well. But after a week, it seemed to have become one piece. I haven't done repairs on the doll itself yet (haven't had time in the months since I got the 3M stuff and did the first tests).Kira-sama wrote: So, does primer 94 actually weld the TPE together or is it more of an adhesion promoter (as it is called)? I tried gluing two pieces of TPE last night (pure primer) and 19 hours later it came apart with under minor to medium tearing force. I dunked the bottom of one of the pieces in the primer can and then pushed it down on top of the second piece for no more than a few seconds.
Myself, I wouldn't breathe this stuff (the regular 94 liquid in the metal can)...I wouldn't even use it indoors, with or without ventilation and a mask. The one whiff I got of it I could practically feel my mucous membranes dissolving.Are masks really necessary?
If you can still smell it, then you are still inhaling the bad stuff.SaraHayes wrote: wore a bandanna around my face the fumes are kind of bad with numerous warnings on the can about them. i was thinking one application shouldnt be to bad but i could still smell the fumes so i didnt want to mess with it to long.
I used a qtip (or rather, the kroger brand clone thereof).not sure if i can use something besides a toothpick.
So, when making a paste, just chop up some TPE and dunk it in some primer? How long until it is ready? How is the paste used? Is it used as a glue or as a filler?muesky6969 wrote:Sorry folks, I have gotten a bit behind in my reading of this thread. Busy.. busy with so many projects. So paste vs straight primer, Wheezer and Seagull has mentioned it and I may either here or on another thread. Straight primer only for areas where there is no stress in any position the area is in. Paste for any area where there is stress. Paste is super easy to make it is literally just chopped up TPE dissolved in primer and makes a great bond.
If the issue is the lack of extra TPE, you can do what I have done and bought pocket masturbators made out of TPE and cut them up to dissolve in the primer. Ebay has them pretty cheap, just make sure it is actually TPE, not TPR or silicone. You can find colors fairly close to your dolls and maybe get one lighter and darker, so you can adjust the color to match. If you are going that route I can give you pointers on vendors on eBay who sell good products and are reputable. You want to make sure you get TPE close to the composition of the material your doll is made. Agares and Cleo are WM and their TPE is much different then Xiel's who is a 6Y3. My fourth doll, who will be here Monday, is a Qita, and is a custom color so I have no idea what his TPE is going to be like.
I use a heated spoon or some other implements I have found or made to smooth over scars. The fact that most of my work you cannot see where I cut into the doll, at all once oiled and powdered. Mishka has some really good videos on YouTube on how to use a spoon for smoothing and texturing areas. Of course I have not had to fix any orifice damage. If someone wanted to donate a doll for the cause I could probably figure out how to do some permanent fixes that look good, as well. For me ascetics is just as important and function, but that is me and admittedly I don't use my dolls like you guys do...
So I know I mentioned before for vaginal/anal tears getting a dildo and using that as the structure to make an insert to repair internal tears. My thought, is get something a bit bigger then your own penis, and just coat it with layers of paste until it is thick enough to handle the activity going on down there. Kind of like a paste condom. How many layers would probably depend on how thick the TPE paste is, how bad the damage is and how much action the doll is going to get. You would probably want to give a day or two in-between coats of paste to make sure is is curing strong. Once you have it built up, just make sure the orifice you are repairing is clean and dry, then coat the insert with another generous coat of paste and insert into the cavity. I would let it sit for at least a week before removing the dildo. The compression will give make the orifice smaller then the dildo you used but using something a bit bigger then yourself, will keep it from ripping out as easily. Wheezer was working on this and we talked about adding knobby bits to the outside of the insert, between layers, to give more texture to increase sensation. This way, no soldering irons in your girls vjay-jays, because just the thought of that makes me cringe like your guys do when you see another man kick in the nads. 8O
If you are wanting to pretty up her parts, you could always find a nice pocket pussy that has more realistic details and graft that on with paste and clean it up with a soldering iron or heated spoon. I am still on the hunt for the perfect peckers for my guys because the ones that WM and 6Y3 make are just weird looking. Like do any of these guys who work in these factory ever look at their own junk? So when I find the ones I like I will be take what is on the mounts off and graft on more realistic ones. And no it has nothing to do with size, more to do with realism and ascetics.
Maybe once I get the mods done on my dolls, I will have time to take in dolls to repair. Of course, I made just get more dolls to modify and sell. I don't know, I just love working on them and the challenge. As I am just a few weeks away from the big 50, I have to keep my mind and body active.. :whistle:
Guess I will let it sit for a week to see if it works. Thanks for the info :)Kaori Kusanagi wrote:AFAICS it works better the longer you leave it before stressing it, and it works better as a paste with the same TPE the doll is made from mixed into it. In my first tests with little chunks, after a day, it didn't seem to hold very well. But after a week, it seemed to have become one piece. I haven't done repairs on the doll itself yet (haven't had time in the months since I got the 3M stuff and did the first tests).Kira-sama wrote: So, does primer 94 actually weld the TPE together or is it more of an adhesion promoter (as it is called)? I tried gluing two pieces of TPE last night (pure primer) and 19 hours later it came apart with under minor to medium tearing force. I dunked the bottom of one of the pieces in the primer can and then pushed it down on top of the second piece for no more than a few seconds.
I couldn't get it to hold TPR together, however, even though it did dissolve the TPR chunk I used to make a test TPR paste--but I also don't know what the TPR I have had gone thru before I got it, as it was donated as "used".
Myself, I wouldn't breathe this stuff (the regular 94 liquid in the metal can)...I wouldn't even use it indoors, with or without ventilation and a mask. The one whiff I got of it I could practically feel my mucous membranes dissolving. :lol:Are masks really necessary?
I haven't checked, but I suspect the pen is not the same stuff, and even if it is, it is probably producing much less VOC outgassing. If they were outdoors, they might simply not have worried about it.
But some people don't care what they do to their bodies with various chemicals, especially when they're younger, so it could well be just as bad as the canned stuff. ;)
If you can still smell it, then you are still inhaling the bad stuff. :(SaraHayes wrote: wore a bandanna around my face the fumes are kind of bad with numerous warnings on the can about them. i was thinking one application shouldnt be to bad but i could still smell the fumes so i didnt want to mess with it to long.
I used a qtip (or rather, the kroger brand clone thereof).not sure if i can use something besides a toothpick.
Thanks for posting that link. It's very helpful. Is the paste a glue or a filler (paste becomes TPE when cured and welds to the doll's TPE and fills in the gap where a vagina tear is so that the vagina becomes bigger and hopefully not tear again)? I need a good method to expand the vaginas of my dolls and for the solution to either be really good at holding the TPE piece in place or to make the TPE piece become part of my doll's TPE.seagull wrote:Mixing TPE & 3M adhesive paste
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