pouring process

EddieFr · Post by **EddieFr** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 12:15 pm

...hey Mr. Don, what I meant was to pour/brush some additional silicone at the attachment points, not bury the skeleton or fill the remainder of the mold half with "gallons of silicone"...come on. I know you need to offer caution where warranted, but let's keep the axe-grinding to a minimum.

...I will, however, yield to your operative success in the silicone casting business, of which I have some, if limited, experience.....

...yours,

EdF.

Post by **Ruby13** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 2:08 pm

EddieFr:
There are no axes to grind
here...If you'll read Nicks first post, he asks how to suspend the
"skeleton" inside the mold, I merely told him he will need another
mold for the inside foam, not just the skeleton...I was not referring
to you at all! It's time I sign off this thread, Nick will do just
fine with you and "ItsMe" assisting him.

Cheers Don/R-13

EddieFr · Post by **EddieFr** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:12 pm

...Don, I PM'd you. It's all good here............

EdF.

itsme · Post by **itsme** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:40 pm

Ruby13
What you are leaving this post with out helping this guy, Why I thought you where where full of advive for hm.
even if you dont post it pm the guy and let him know how you put in your rope pvc and chan,

I dont make a silicone doll, but I learned alot from mark. the maker of superbabe. I also know some of the same people you talked to at S/O I know them so when They spend holadays with me. The day after day calls are great jokes.

You do need to make a foam mold for the skulliton or frame. But the guy asked how is it set in side.
Why dont you help him and not give him a runaround. I can not tell him how to its not my place to give up suberbabe secrets

But you can help him with your tequnec.

NickSPB · Post by **NickSPB** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 8:56 am

People! As I realize this forum is not intended for exchange of useful information,and have a target to remind each other that everything is very difficult and "I did not tell anyone how I did it, because it's dangerous - may be suddenly someone will make better!?!?". Maybe there is somebody adequate and will share his observations and technical details. But about fact that they have boobs large or small, and that silicone is very expensive and the joints are complicated and the pubic hair should be natural - I already know without you.. Tuk-tuk, is there anybody out there???

NickSPB · Post by **NickSPB** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:07 am

I realize if the guy from Vladivostok will be worry about - but why are you worried? we're on different continents!

Post by **titman** » Fri Apr 15, 2011 6:28 am

EddieFr wrote:...one established method is to pour/brush a first batch into the back half of the mold to about 3/8" or so, then attach the skeletal strucure to some added silicone "rests" or "support pillars" at strategic points inside the mold half. Brush or pour some additional silicone over the skeleton to firmly attach, and you're good to go. Proceed to close the mold and begin the rotocast.

EdF.

Nick,

Start thinking from what Eddiefr's post. He already shine some light for you. Everyone has different design but you have to know the basic technique then apply to your own. This is not rocket science.

NickSPB · Post by **NickSPB** » Fri Apr 15, 2011 7:47 am

titman wrote:
EddieFr wrote:...one established method is to pour/brush a first batch into the back half of the mold to about 3/8" or so, then attach the skeletal strucure to some added silicone "rests" or "support pillars" at strategic points inside the mold half. Brush or pour some additional silicone over the skeleton to firmly attach, and you're good to go. Proceed to close the mold and begin the rotocast.

EdF.
Nick,

Start thinking from what Eddiefr's post. He already shine some light for you. Everyone has different design but you have to know the basic technique then apply to your own. This is not rocket science.

Thank you for your reply!

With attention I have read all previous posts - many aspects already becomes more understandable - So now I think on the problem ... may be necessary to do something more than skeleton, such as the body - as a staging basis before pouring the skin (may be breasts, buttocks..) -- me and my colleagues now already trying to cast a double, even triple structure... what do you think)) anyone even reads the current title??--------- and one more problem - what means "rotocast"?? I have no idea) my dictionaries don't have this word

NickSPB · Post by **NickSPB** » Fri Apr 15, 2011 7:53 am

May be it's related to "roto..." as rotating, spining, and "...cast" as casting, pouring???? am I right???

Post by **titman** » Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:20 am

Nick,

LOOK's LIKE YOU SEE THE LIGHT. GOOD FOR YOU!

Rotocast means rotating the mold during the casting process.

Good luck!

Titman

mexdl · Post by **mexdl** » Fri Apr 15, 2011 10:42 am

Search on YouTube , you will find interesting "do it yourself rotocasting machine" projects, as mr titman kindly says to me one time, you have to start making a good frame or eskeleton prior to start thinking about pouring

NickSPB · Post by **NickSPB** » Tue Apr 19, 2011 4:11 am

titman wrote:Nick,

LOOK's LIKE YOU SEE THE LIGHT. GOOD FOR YOU!

Rotocast means rotating the mold during the casting process.

Good luck!

Titman

Thanks a lot)
Your support is very well-timed. Well .. thinking about construction, assemblies, joints as the parallel tasks... except this I cannot yet imagine, how to make the buttocks and breasts as soft as a body of living person, and the rest of the body more rigid, moreover preferably in the same pouring)) -- but certainly I have some unexpected ideas about this. May be you or somebody have any experience on this problem))

Sencerely

Nick

Post by **titman** » Tue Apr 19, 2011 6:43 am

With different grade of silicone on different area such as breast and ass, you can make it as soft as human flesh. Shore a 0010 or even make it softer than human flesh just if they can hold the shape. You don''t have to do it on the same pouring. nothing is set as a rule just experiment it and you'll work your way out!

pulchri-dude · Post by **pulchri-dude** » Tue Apr 19, 2011 1:39 pm

Those Doll manufacturers that offer soft jiggly butt & breasts or silicone or gel implants in the butt & breasts have years of doll making experience.

Soft shore overall butt & doll means you have to carry the doll around wearing leather or vinyl mittens so a fingernail doesn't dig in and make a permanent indentation, or from sitting on a ledge corner or table/chair edge.

Gel implants in the butt cheeks make for butt cheeks that squish in while still having a tougher against abrasion higher shore silicone hide.

If I would need to rotate or centrifigully spin a mold, I would only build a skeleton with precistion steel joints. On the outer mold shell I would recess/epoxy partially into the mold exterior two stainless steel nuts with a multi inch long threaded stainless steel machine bolt (thinnest ones I can find that will take the stress) through the nuts to screw into a tapped threaded hole in each steel ankle, knee, hip, middle of back, middle of neck, shoulders, back of elbows & bottom of wrists - mostly all screws threaded in from the backside half of the mold to lock the skeleton in suspension between the two mold halves when clamped together.

That would suspend the pvc steel joint skeleton rock solid for rotating the mold & just back out the machine screws when done & patch the dozen or so 1/8" silicone holes by injection by hypo or very skinny cake decorating tip or oil can tip.

Monofilament fishing line suspension has a float risk & wont handle rotating the mold well.