OK. I need someone's help big time. Please note I am the LEAST handy person in the world.
So today I received Kayla, the B7 realdoll and the crate is the old style where the doll is in the seated position. I decided to run to Home Depot today and get a hook or somethign to at least anchor into a stud in my closet for the time being.
Can someone help me here? As I said, I am not handy. what should I buy exactly?
I already have my metal stud finder, so I can find a metal stud in my closet wall. But what next? What kind of hook do I buy? How do I go about doint this?
I don't have a lot of time today for a very complicated implementation, so the easier the better.
I am concerned that with any old hook the doll will be too close to the wall. In a lot of pictures I see people generally have their hooks hanging to a mobile poll and the hook arches far out from the poll.
So what do I do here? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
A22
Need someones help for hanging B7
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tchon
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As I dont have a doll myself, just a short pointer to what I guess is very promising:
http://www.dollforum.com/modules.php?na ... ic&t=17684
Its campdaans stand for Dottie, with lots of hints and modifications in that thread. I am clumsy handed myself, but after reading that thread I guess even I could put together such a thing.
As Kayla is an older B7 she might be a bit heavier than Dottie. Maybe our chief engineers can estimate if the stand is still robust enough?
How did Bill store her? I guess he stored her lying down and supported at back and knees to avoid butt flattening, and this seemed not have done any hurt to her?
http://www.dollforum.com/modules.php?na ... ic&t=17684
Its campdaans stand for Dottie, with lots of hints and modifications in that thread. I am clumsy handed myself, but after reading that thread I guess even I could put together such a thing.
As Kayla is an older B7 she might be a bit heavier than Dottie. Maybe our chief engineers can estimate if the stand is still robust enough?
How did Bill store her? I guess he stored her lying down and supported at back and knees to avoid butt flattening, and this seemed not have done any hurt to her?
hey there! i have a 1st year 2003 b7 and yeah she's one heavy gal! the new ones are now below 80lbs but mine is 100+lbs.
what you need is a heavy duty hook (take the eye bolt with you to match up. the thickness of the hook should be around the same as the bolt loop) you also need a piece of pipe that sticks out about 6-8 inches and a base with holes for mounting to the wall. look at campdaans stand. just copy the hook part. for the wall mounting buy 2 3-4inch metal wood screws. they should be pretty thick. put the screws into the holes of the base, drillscrew them into the wall stud of choice then screw the pipe into the base, then screw the hook onto the pipe.
of course you could always call Abyss and ask if they have any more separate hooks mounts that you can order. good luck!
Euch
what you need is a heavy duty hook (take the eye bolt with you to match up. the thickness of the hook should be around the same as the bolt loop) you also need a piece of pipe that sticks out about 6-8 inches and a base with holes for mounting to the wall. look at campdaans stand. just copy the hook part. for the wall mounting buy 2 3-4inch metal wood screws. they should be pretty thick. put the screws into the holes of the base, drillscrew them into the wall stud of choice then screw the pipe into the base, then screw the hook onto the pipe.
of course you could always call Abyss and ask if they have any more separate hooks mounts that you can order. good luck!
Euch
I was a bad boy at TDF and got ex-membered.
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Incrediwagon
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I ended up making my own bracket, but you maybe able to buy something close at a big hardwear store. Make sure it can handle the weight and sticks out 8" from the wall. Maybe a bookshelf bracket with a hook bolted on would work. An other question is the stud in the wall wood or steel. If wood a couple of 5/16" lag bolts will hold well, but not sure how long with steel.
If U can bridge the wall space Ur best best is to place one (good srong) piece of 2 x 6 edge wise & support it with bracket plates against the studs on each side of the wall. 8 or 10 penny nails into the wall studs on each wall.
Then all U need is a good chain or rope & a hook, Ur done.
This is straight bridging vertical force hanging, no angle torque no twist, it's stupid proof if U do it right. And stronger than a single bracket wall mount set up. If U R having trouble picturing it, --------> H
Then all U need is a good chain or rope & a hook, Ur done.
This is straight bridging vertical force hanging, no angle torque no twist, it's stupid proof if U do it right. And stronger than a single bracket wall mount set up. If U R having trouble picturing it, --------> H
<div><strong>I'll have to make my own Uschi Doll</strong></div><br />
Anthony...
Most hardware stores carry a 1/2 inch thick hook that is attached to a 6 inch shaft with screw treads at the other end. Just buy one and, after locating the wall stud, screw ALL of its threads into the stud. It should hold the doll without any problem.
There might also be flower pot holder brackets available that you could hang the doll on, but these need to be anchored to the wall stud with two large screws. They are shaped like a triangle with the hook about a foot away from the wall and are intended to suspend a flower pot or planter that has ropes attached to it for hanging. Maybe one of the larger ones could suspend the doll safely.
In any event, it is VERY important that you make sure the system you use can support at least 25% more than the doll's weight. This is because if you drop the doll onto the hook, even for a distance of a fraction of an inch, the impact will put a stress on the hook in excess of the doll's weight. You need to have a safety margin to allow for this. A doll that drops to the floor, depending upon how it hits, can experience severe damage to the joints in its lower body.
technoguy
Most hardware stores carry a 1/2 inch thick hook that is attached to a 6 inch shaft with screw treads at the other end. Just buy one and, after locating the wall stud, screw ALL of its threads into the stud. It should hold the doll without any problem.
There might also be flower pot holder brackets available that you could hang the doll on, but these need to be anchored to the wall stud with two large screws. They are shaped like a triangle with the hook about a foot away from the wall and are intended to suspend a flower pot or planter that has ropes attached to it for hanging. Maybe one of the larger ones could suspend the doll safely.
In any event, it is VERY important that you make sure the system you use can support at least 25% more than the doll's weight. This is because if you drop the doll onto the hook, even for a distance of a fraction of an inch, the impact will put a stress on the hook in excess of the doll's weight. You need to have a safety margin to allow for this. A doll that drops to the floor, depending upon how it hits, can experience severe damage to the joints in its lower body.
technoguy
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Keithallen
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anthony22,
Poet's suggestion is a good, simple answer. Metal studs are not the strongest, it would be a real good idea to grab two with the "H" pattern Poet suggested.
Also forget what Technoguy said. Don't try to compute the strength of your hanging device
. Rule of thumb, if you can hang off it, then the doll will have no trouble hanging from it 
Poet's suggestion is a good, simple answer. Metal studs are not the strongest, it would be a real good idea to grab two with the "H" pattern Poet suggested.
Also forget what Technoguy said. Don't try to compute the strength of your hanging device
. Rule of thumb, if you can hang off it, then the doll will have no trouble hanging from it 
My God man, you trying to hang a Harem? The odds of hitting a 1 1/2" stud (2x4) with a 1/2" hook are not very conducive to gambling...The Z Doc brings up a good point. forgot to mention, U will need uprights to bracket that cross beam & pound those support brackets into to hold the 2 x 6...the wall stud won't do. Use 2 x 4's at least 8 feet tall.
As for the uprights (s x 4's) they can practically stand on their own, just rap em into the wall so they don't slip & make sure they R level (straight up & down), all the forces R DOWNWARDS once U have the doll hanging.
As for the uprights (s x 4's) they can practically stand on their own, just rap em into the wall so they don't slip & make sure they R level (straight up & down), all the forces R DOWNWARDS once U have the doll hanging.
<div><strong>I'll have to make my own Uschi Doll</strong></div><br />
ZDC...
Finding the exact center of a 2 inch wide wall stud is actually very easy. I've done it several times when placing heavy screws into a wall to support a large picture frame or mirror. What I do is located the stud by tapping on the wall and detecting the change in the sound when I'm tapping the wall over the stud. Then I use a very thin finishing nail and gently hammer it through the plaster board several times to locate the edges of the stud. The center of the test holes that indicate the edge will give one the center of the stud.
Yes, I know 1/2 inch is a bit wide and IF one chooses to use a screw in hook this wide, he might want to pre-drill a guide hole maybe a 1/4 inch in diameter for it to a depth into the stud equal to the length of the threaded section of the hook shaft.
KA...
You don't have to worry about my 1/2 inch diameter hook not being able to support a person;s body weight. It could probably support up to 500 lbs before the extended shaft of the hook started to bend under the load.
I think the greatest risk one runs when trying to make a hanging hook for their doll is that they will make it too weak. Placing 100+ lbs on one spot is a LOT of force to apply to a piece of metal. The wall stud can handle it as will the neck bolt on the doll. But the hook shaft is the weak point in the arrangement.
I've noticed that, when it comes to home repairs, do-it-yourselfers who are not "handy" types tend to UNDERdo things and use parts that are not strong enough for the job. The size hook shaft I've recommended may seem a bit excessive to some, but it's better to err on the side of caution...especially when it comes to safeguarding one's investment in a high-end doll.
technoguy
Finding the exact center of a 2 inch wide wall stud is actually very easy. I've done it several times when placing heavy screws into a wall to support a large picture frame or mirror. What I do is located the stud by tapping on the wall and detecting the change in the sound when I'm tapping the wall over the stud. Then I use a very thin finishing nail and gently hammer it through the plaster board several times to locate the edges of the stud. The center of the test holes that indicate the edge will give one the center of the stud.
Yes, I know 1/2 inch is a bit wide and IF one chooses to use a screw in hook this wide, he might want to pre-drill a guide hole maybe a 1/4 inch in diameter for it to a depth into the stud equal to the length of the threaded section of the hook shaft.
KA...
You don't have to worry about my 1/2 inch diameter hook not being able to support a person;s body weight. It could probably support up to 500 lbs before the extended shaft of the hook started to bend under the load.
I think the greatest risk one runs when trying to make a hanging hook for their doll is that they will make it too weak. Placing 100+ lbs on one spot is a LOT of force to apply to a piece of metal. The wall stud can handle it as will the neck bolt on the doll. But the hook shaft is the weak point in the arrangement.
I've noticed that, when it comes to home repairs, do-it-yourselfers who are not "handy" types tend to UNDERdo things and use parts that are not strong enough for the job. The size hook shaft I've recommended may seem a bit excessive to some, but it's better to err on the side of caution...especially when it comes to safeguarding one's investment in a high-end doll.
technoguy
Thank you everyone for your assistance with this. I tend to like the solution posted by Incrediwagon. It looks really simple for my purposes.
but I wonder if that will hold the doll. Kayla also seems a lot heavier that most B7. I think because she is custom (custom thomas skelton, custom thomas wrists, custom moving eye mechanism, etc).
I have no idea what she ways but i know it is way more than 100 lbs. Maybe I should try something more complicated than that L bracket....
Anthony
but I wonder if that will hold the doll. Kayla also seems a lot heavier that most B7. I think because she is custom (custom thomas skelton, custom thomas wrists, custom moving eye mechanism, etc).
I have no idea what she ways but i know it is way more than 100 lbs. Maybe I should try something more complicated than that L bracket....
Anthony
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Keithallen
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anthony,
if building a bracket makes you uncomfortable, then you can always buy plumbing parts and make a doll stand like myself or Campdaan has. No work needed except to screw the pieces of pipe together
3/4 inch pipe nipples and couplings will make a doll stand that is sure to hold your B-7.
Mine can hold a B-7, B-5, and two PC's at the same time
if building a bracket makes you uncomfortable, then you can always buy plumbing parts and make a doll stand like myself or Campdaan has. No work needed except to screw the pieces of pipe together
3/4 inch pipe nipples and couplings will make a doll stand that is sure to hold your B-7.
Mine can hold a B-7, B-5, and two PC's at the same time
The off-set neck bolt bracket that U see in that picture is used by several members in varied configurations. This type of bracket changes the forces imparted on the 'spine' causing the doll to hang straighter without the pitch forward normal storage posture.
Keep in mind, this is not how the doll's 'spine' was designed to take long term traction forces. Proceed knowing this.
Keep in mind, this is not how the doll's 'spine' was designed to take long term traction forces. Proceed knowing this.
<div><strong>I'll have to make my own Uschi Doll</strong></div><br />
keithallen,
Yeah I think you are right that is probably the best approach. I'm just afraid I'll go to Lowe's or Home Depot and not know what to get. I did see that parts list... but it looked complicated and I know the staff are going to ask me all these questions about each part.
I guess I will give it a try. I studied the pictures that were posted in the other thread and the parts list and I think I can see what each part on the list matches up to in the picture.
It does look easy enough... to screw in a pipe here and there. The part that concerns me is the hook part. It seems unclear on how exactly to fason the hook to the cap at the very top of the pipe.
I will read it some more and study the thread mroe carefully in an attempt to figure out what the heck to do!
-Anthony
Yeah I think you are right that is probably the best approach. I'm just afraid I'll go to Lowe's or Home Depot and not know what to get. I did see that parts list... but it looked complicated and I know the staff are going to ask me all these questions about each part.
I guess I will give it a try. I studied the pictures that were posted in the other thread and the parts list and I think I can see what each part on the list matches up to in the picture.
It does look easy enough... to screw in a pipe here and there. The part that concerns me is the hook part. It seems unclear on how exactly to fason the hook to the cap at the very top of the pipe.
I will read it some more and study the thread mroe carefully in an attempt to figure out what the heck to do!
-Anthony
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manekineko
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Being the person who posted the parts list for Campdaan's stand, I can reassure you it isn't difficult. With the part list I doubt you'll need to talk to the Lowes folk at all beyond directions to get a part, either. They won't know what your making if you don't give them the whole list.anthony22 wrote:keithallen,
Yeah I think you are right that is probably the best approach. I'm just afraid I'll go to Lowe's or Home Depot and not know what to get. I did see that parts list... but it looked complicated and I know the staff are going to ask me all these questions about each part.
I guess I will give it a try. I studied the pictures that were posted in the other thread and the parts list and I think I can see what each part on the list matches up to in the picture.
It does look easy enough... to screw in a pipe here and there. The part that concerns me is the hook part. It seems unclear on how exactly to fason the hook to the cap at the very top of the pipe.
I will read it some more and study the thread mroe carefully in an attempt to figure out what the heck to do!
-Anthony
The hardest part is drilling the hole in the pipe cap for the hook. You will need a power drill with a metal capable bit for that part, and be sure to read to the end of that stand thread regarding the hook and turnbuckle solution I discovered for making the hook. That or Campdaan's style hook are the best ways to go.
Let me know if you have any questions.
