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(So what do I need to put her back together? it looks like she has actually been worked on this arm once before.... shoulder was cut open at the seem. which looks good and is holding but there is a number of places were repairs have been done that looks like what ever was used isn't holding its sticky and can be pulled apart fairly easy. and she also only needs to look good with clothes on.)
WTF just has I was thinking about selling the body. I was thinking about making a small cut at the elbow to get to the joint when I ran my hand up her arm to her armpit and thats when my fingers sunk in to the tear all the way down to the bone... and its about off I can't see it yet as her outfit dosen't seem to want to come off... guess I finally got the removable arm. should start work on a machine gun arm for her now...
now I know 2 new things about Real dolls pvc skeleton's i thought there was going to be some fat ass metal tubes from whats at the neck and there really dirty on the inside. and a 3rd thing sents its off a real dolls arm with out shoulder weighs 5 pounds...
The silicone adhesive usually works very well on Tin cure silicone. BUT if the cut is not perfectly clean then the adhesive becomes contaminated and turns into a soft, sticky glop that won't hold the join together. That's what you have there. All you need to do is peel away the old adhesive which you can do with your fingers and start again. Clean well with acetone to get shiny, new looking silicone in the cut. If there is discolouration then it isn't clean enough. Bad contamination can occur around joints where the metal parts leave corrosion in the form of a black powder. This is very hard to clean, but one thing I've found that works well is White Spirit. Use artist grade, which is double distilled and not as harsh as the cheap stuff. Once its done the job of cleaning up the black, make sure to clean away the white spirit, don't leave it wet in the cut, but dry it properly.
It looks bad but its all fixable. Make sure the mechanical connections are secure first, then repair the silicone.
The silicone adhesive usually works very well on Tin cure silicone. BUT if the cut is not perfectly clean then the adhesive becomes contaminated and turns into a soft, sticky glop that won't hold the join together. That's what you have there. All you need to do is peel away the old adhesive which you can do with your fingers and start again. Clean well with acetone to get shiny, new looking silicone in the cut. If there is discolouration then it isn't clean enough. Bad contamination can occur around joints where the metal parts leave corrosion in the form of a black powder. This is very hard to clean, but one thing I've found that works well is White Spirit. Use artist grade, which is double distilled and not as harsh as the cheap stuff. Once its done the job of cleaning up the black, make sure to clean away the white spirit, don't leave it wet in the cut, but dry it properly.
It looks bad but its all fixable. Make sure the mechanical connections are secure first, then repair the silicone.
thank you I was getting worried... I'm going to guess that my idea of a can of spray adhesive is a bad idea... can I get the silicone adhesive anywhere or do I have to get it from abyss? I'm still going to try and make it removable I cut some of the shoulder about were it starts to curve down so the arm and this part will be one and just have the small gab. shes dressed all the time anyway only time she's not is when I'm changing her outfit. plus the arm really is 5lbs so both arms off looking at around 60-67lbs armless she'll be easier to move plus dress. and she'll be a RD with removable arms probably the only one.
Kagami wrote:... I'm going to guess that my idea of a can of spray adhesive is a bad idea... can I get the silicone adhesive anywhere or do I have to get it from abyss?
I don't know of any spray adhesive that would work. However Permatex Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive sealant Part no. 66B is what I use. Loctitie also make a similar one. It can be thinned or used neat and works well.
The adhesive tends to be harder than the doll's parent silicone but thinning makes it softer. The trade-off is that it also gets weaker. Makes sense when you realise that you have less adhesive to then do the job. This applies to RTV silicone adhesive used on tin silicone dolls. Silpoxy that seems common for platinum is something else and I don't know that it can be thinned.
The silicone adhesive usually works very well on Tin cure silicone. BUT if the cut is not perfectly clean then the adhesive becomes contaminated and turns into a soft, sticky glop that won't hold the join together. That's what you have there. All you need to do is peel away the old adhesive which you can do with your fingers and start again. Clean well with acetone to get shiny, new looking silicone in the cut. If there is discolouration then it isn't clean enough. Bad contamination can occur around joints where the metal parts leave corrosion in the form of a black powder. This is very hard to clean, but one thing I've found that works well is White Spirit. Use artist grade, which is double distilled and not as harsh as the cheap stuff. Once its done the job of cleaning up the black, make sure to clean away the white spirit, don't leave it wet in the cut, but dry it properly.
It looks bad but its all fixable. Make sure the mechanical connections are secure first, then repair the silicone.
acetone dosen't seem to be doing anything.... if anything its making my arm dirtier by making it sticky.
Sorry, that's all I had to say. I don't have a doll like yours (sadly, as she is a total, total cutie) so I can't help in the repair department. I hope all goes well, though. Hey, at worst you can have a kickass gun-arm made for her and she can fight off tracksuit-wearing ninjas and a martial arts master of the flying guillotine!
Hmm, all of a sudden I really want to watch that movie...
Good luck with your repairs! Post your results as you make progress.
YokoHoshino wrote:acetone dosen't seem to be doing anything.... if anything its making my arm dirtier by making it sticky.
Acetone should get most of the dirt off and even the black from the metal parts. The black stuff is hard to completely remove. Give the white spirit a try if you're not having any success, use artist grade and use is sparingly, don't pour it on or leave areas of silicone wet with it. Use cotton balls to apply it (same with acetone) or makeup rounds (used by women to remove makeup) and these are really good at clean-up.
I love that movie!
