Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
- Siliconeman
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
Have a look at this first image. This is what I started with. I had already modified her a little bit.
I carved some TPE from inside of her and then I heated some TPE and totally filled her both holes and groin area to be basis for her new pussy.
I baked her a new coinslot pussy by using her salvaged TPE and welded the new pussy on its proper place. I also punched new more subtle butthole for her.
Here she is after powdering. There are some parts which might require improving but I am satisfied with her as is for now. I can always modify her little more later.
Her butt is now easy to enter either vaginally or anally. Heaven!
This is the best part in my opinion. I can now enter her butt hole while she is laying on bed on her stomach. This is not possible on most of the out of the box factory standard dolls.
Until next time and happy modding!
Siliconeman
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
I keep wondering, despite all manufacturers know about LHP issues most them keep ignoring. Can´t be just related to manufacturing processes so my guess would be more toward cultural preferences between east and west maybe? Similar to many times terrible wig placements and styles in promo shootings and a very noticable avoidance of "colored" dolls.
Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
- Siliconeman
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
Please check out Julias latest pictures. Her transformation is very impressive!
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=126468&hilit=meet+julia&start=45
This was her original (bad)LHP:
Look at her now after my modifications! She has a new labia and new butthole.
Cheers!
Siliconeman
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
The prospect of making a hash of it is scary. But the prize of having a leggy WM172D that can actually be used properly from any angle is quite motivating.
I figure one could practice these operations on a cheap smaller toy like one of these? These are usually made of TPE aswell , right.
https://www.lovehoney.co.uk/sex-toys/ma ... tic-butts/
I figure I could get through a few of those till I get it right.
a "coinslot" in the right place would be better than nothing in the wrong place, but my preference is for the protruding labia minora. I was wondering if those could be moulded and grafted on in another step. Or again if you could get one of those toys and transplant the outer part (... if the TPE shade matched) maybe there'd be problems matching different types of TPE.
I'm also nervous about the ball tool being heated by a flame.. I can see myself burning myself or the doll. I wonder if you could get the spherical thing on the end of a soldering iron. is that step obsolete for the later grafting.
- curious_person
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
[1]cutting the area between the two existing channels out, leaving one large truncated wedge-shaped cavity knife, no heat?
[2] constructing a sort of "super-insert"
this could be sculpted, moulded away from the doll (which sounds easier to me, e.g. a smaller peice on a workbench, all the molten stuff away from the doll), and you'd get several attempts
[3] 'welding' this super-insert into place once happy (perhaps this would still require a molten material pour).
Perhaps the last step would be no easier (or perhaps there's a flaw in this plan that renders it impractical) but I like the idea that you'd get multiple attempts without having to take heat or cutting tools near the doll
- Siliconeman
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
Hi curious!curious_person wrote:i'm also wondering if you didn't care about the rear-passage (as I dont), could this be done by
[1]cutting the area between the two existing channels out, leaving one large truncated wedge-shaped cavity knife, no heat?
[2] constructing a sort of "super-insert"
this could be sculpted, moulded away from the doll (which sounds easier to me, e.g. a smaller peice on a workbench, all the molten stuff away from the doll), and you'd get several attempts
[3] 'welding' this super-insert into place once happy (perhaps this would still require a molten material pour).
Perhaps the last step would be no easier (or perhaps there's a flaw in this plan that renders it impractical) but I like the idea that you'd get multiple attempts without having to take heat or cutting tools near the doll
You are right to be very hesitant. I encountered desperation many times when modifying my dolls. TPE is quite hard material to work with. Biggest problem is that TPE is very porous inside the doll. Sometimes when you are filling the holes with molten TPE it creates new unwanted cavities.
I would guess that your process is more difficult way to perform operation. It involves more cutting if you are talking about opening her crotch completely between her anal and vaginal cavities. I would like to keep as much dolls original sculpture as possible and only concentrate on cavities.
You could try an easy option for your 172D. If you want to improve her rear entry you could simply close her anal hole with small piece of TPE and do very small amount of sculpting hiding this hole. Then you can quite easily punch her a new anus to proper place with a hot apple drill. She would look funny having her holes quite much apart from each other but at least you could now enter her while she is standing or laying on her tummy.
Be careful, dont ruin your doll if you are uncertain in what you are about to do.
Cheers!
Siliconeman
Ps.
My modified Monica (ClimaxDoll160) performed well in photos with her improved private parts. viewtopic.php?f=11&t=91033&hilit=meet+monica&start=105
- curious_person
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
thanks . Ultimately I wont touch her until i've (a) practiced on a simpler toy and (b) have a second doll as backup if it all goes pear-shaped.Siliconeman wrote:Hi curious!curious_person wrote:i'm also wondering if you didn't care about the rear-passage (as I dont), could this be done by
[1]cutting the area between the two existing channels out, leaving one large truncated wedge-shaped cavity knife, no heat?
[2] constructing a sort of "super-insert"
this could be sculpted, moulded away from the doll (which sounds easier to me, e.g. a smaller peice on a workbench, all the molten stuff away from the doll), and you'd get several attempts
[3] 'welding' this super-insert into place once happy (perhaps this would still require a molten material pour).
Perhaps the last step would be no easier (or perhaps there's a flaw in this plan that renders it impractical) but I like the idea that you'd get multiple attempts without having to take heat or cutting tools near the doll
You are right to be very hesitant. I encountered desperation many times when modifying my dolls. TPE is quite hard material to work with. Biggest problem is that TPE is very porous inside the doll. Sometimes when you are filling the holes with molten TPE it creates new unwanted cavities.
I would guess that your process is more difficult way to perform operation. It involves more cutting if you are talking about opening her crotch completely between her anal and vaginal cavities. I would like to keep as much dolls original sculpture as possible and only concentrate on cavities.
You could try an easy option for your 172D. If you want to improve her rear entry you could simply close her anal hole with small piece of TPE and do very small amount of sculpting hiding this hole. Then you can quite easily punch her a new anus to proper place with a hot apple drill. She would look funny having her holes quite much apart from each other but at least you could now enter her while she is standing or laying on her tummy.
Be careful, dont ruin your doll if you are uncertain in what you are about to do.
Cheers!
Siliconeman
Ps.
My modified Monica (ClimaxDoll160) performed well in photos with her improved private parts. viewtopic.php?f=11&t=91033&hilit=meet+monica&start=105
Funnily enough the 'back passage' as it stands is fine to use however I just dont like the idea - I'd never go near it in real life. I just have to take a second to remind myself "this is a sextoy, not a real woman", then the back passage becomes a useable workaround for the poor vaginal placement. (Perhaps this is what the manufacturer has in mind: 2 entry points either side of where the vagina should be gives you leeway to compensate for the dolls inability to adjust it's hips for you). Basically where it is, 'some of the things you can do with a real vagina' become possible with that. but for maximum thrills and suspension of disbelief .. I need lips. Perhaps blurring it out under heat to make it an amorphous "entry-point" rather than "the wrong orifice" would help me out, lol.
Having said "mega-insert" i'm also wondering if an insert-based doll would have been easier to adapt aswell? the insert's channel is central. could creating a custom insert with the channel offset help. there'd be a very thin wall at one side. perhaps that could be reinforced with another material, or this offset-insert glued in, and the outside cosmetically enhanced. perhaps that wouldn't let you move it far enough. Or you'd have just a little less to carve and reposition.
- Drain Bammage
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
Looks like a lot of work.
- curious_person
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
just messing with photoshopping a simple ideaSiliconeman wrote:Hi curious!curious_person wrote:i'm also wondering if you didn't care about the rear-passage (as I dont), could this be done by
[1]cutting the area between the two existing channels out, leaving one large truncated wedge-shaped cavity knife, no heat?
[2] constructing a sort of "super-insert"
this could be sculpted, moulded away from the doll (which sounds easier to me, e.g. a smaller peice on a workbench, all the molten stuff away from the doll), and you'd get several attempts
[3] 'welding' this super-insert into place once happy (perhaps this would still require a molten material pour).
Perhaps the last step would be no easier (or perhaps there's a flaw in this plan that renders it impractical) but I like the idea that you'd get multiple attempts without having to take heat or cutting tools near the doll
You are right to be very hesitant. I encountered desperation many times when modifying my dolls. TPE is quite hard material to work with. Biggest problem is that TPE is very porous inside the doll. Sometimes when you are filling the holes with molten TPE it creates new unwanted cavities.
I would guess that your process is more difficult way to perform operation. It involves more cutting if you are talking about opening her crotch completely between her anal and vaginal cavities. I would like to keep as much dolls original sculpture as possible and only concentrate on cavities.
You could try an easy option for your 172D. If you want to improve her rear entry you could simply close her anal hole with small piece of TPE and do very small amount of sculpting hiding this hole. Then you can quite easily punch her a new anus to proper place with a hot apple drill. She would look funny having her holes quite much apart from each other but at least you could now enter her while she is standing or laying on her tummy.
Be careful, dont ruin your doll if you are uncertain in what you are about to do.
Cheers!
Siliconeman
Ps.
My modified Monica (ClimaxDoll160) performed well in photos with her improved private parts. viewtopic.php?f=11&t=91033&hilit=meet+monica&start=105
- given that the existing anus position is useable, i just dont like the idea of what it's supposed to be.
"what if I could just place some larger labia majora to run all the way back to where the current anus is, and put a shallow cosmetic anus a little further back?"
then you'd just have to close up the vagina.
The hazard here is that the vagina would be *too* far back (aesthetically), but we already established the existing rear hole is useable from these poses.
It would make regular missionary rather difficult, but everything from behind and legs up easy.
in these pictures, the back of the slot is the existing anus. a new anus is drawn in above. This is all just drawn over the promo shots with no distortion.
comparison of proposed mod (left) to some real reference material (right)
- Siliconeman
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
Please be careful and dont ruin your beautiful doll!
Cheers!
Siliconeman
Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
An operation I am intrigued about is breast surgery, increasing and reducing. My wife had reduction surgery recently and the work of the surgeon was impressive. For doll breasts I see the challenge of keeping the sculp attractive and even. Not sure whether reducing or increasing would be easier. One of my dolls has ridiculously over-sized breasts that I'd like to bring down a cup size or two. I figure I could cut the breasts off, slice out some material, weld them back on, and then somehow smooth the area around. I am surely nervous about screwing it up. The response post about practicing with a TPE sex toy before trying it on a doll seems like a smart option. Any suggestions for this type of surgery would be most welcome.
- Siliconeman
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
You are welcome Bobbay!Bobbay wrote:Siliconeman, thank you for sharing all of this excellent information! I have long hoped for more expertise to be shared on TPE doll surgery. I think it could be a separate category on TDF. I learned a lot from your thread that has my mental gears spinning. I am surprised how you get good results from a soldering iron, as I figured those could be too hot and trigger burning versus a hot air gun. The vacuum cleaner seems brilliant as a fume hood substitute. Do you vent to the outdoors? Do you detect fumes from the oven when you cook the TPE?
An operation I am intrigued about is breast surgery, increasing and reducing. My wife had reduction surgery recently and the work of the surgeon was impressive. For doll breasts I see the challenge of keeping the sculp attractive and even. Not sure whether reducing or increasing would be easier. One of my dolls has ridiculously over-sized breasts that I'd like to bring down a cup size or two. I figure I could cut the breasts off, slice out some material, weld them back on, and then somehow smooth the area around. I am surely nervous about screwing it up. The response post about practicing with a TPE sex toy before trying it on a doll seems like a smart option. Any suggestions for this type of surgery would be most welcome.
Soldering iron is too hot for TPE but it makes sure that TPE melts in right places. I use quite big soldering iron with wide tip. I do not use vacuum cleaner for fume extraction. It is a box with cooling fan inside and tubes going in and out. Fume extraction tube is an old vacuum cleaner tube. I transfer fumes to outside of my apartment with another tube. For cooking the TPE I have separate oven at my balcony outside the apartment. The oven will create fumes, I do not recommend doing this inside the house. I also use paint respirator while doing the modifications.
Breast surgery is in my opinion more demanding than what I have done so far. You can easily enlargen the breasts by filling in some more air. Reduction surgery on the other hand is something that I would not try to do.
Cheers
Siliconeman
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Re: Repositioning the holes, Siliconemans "how to"
So this sounds like slightly easier way to create a doggy-optimised doll. I'm also "++" wondering if this is whats going through their minds regarding a deliberate design choice. "we have these two holes we can put and they're going to move when we pose it and so long as people aren't fussed which is which, they'll find always one in a useful place"