Manny's Wash, Repair, and Rebuild
- Velanah Torres
- Active Member
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 5:01 am
- Location: Australia
Manny's Wash, Repair, and Rebuild
I originally built Manny’s torso from two used pillows. I bought myself some new pillows and gave him my old ones. He had been using them since 2015. I thought it was prime time he got himself a brand new torso.
I also wanted to alter his bottom so that it was fuller.
I originally had his neck situated within a small piece of pool noodle that had duck tape taped around the bottom of it to stop a small piece of pvc pipe from falling through it. The pool noodle floated unfixed between his shoulder and his head. Even though it did stabilise his head somewhat preventing bobble-head syndrome, I wanted to do something better.
I acquired a t-junction and some parts that would allow the small pvc pipe to be fixed into it. I cut his shoulders / arms in half; cut some material away; slid the t-junction in place; sewed the shoulders / arms back together; then wound the scrap material over the top and sewed it back in place. His neck was now secure and more or less unmovable.
I acquired a pair of tights from the supermarket that was made from the highest denier. I cut off the legs and used them to house each arm including the forearms; from the wrist to the shoulder. I used bandages to anchor each leg near the neck. I used each leg for one arm. I then tied string around the elbow to create a joint. I did this for both arms.
The torso is made from two pillows, sewn together, back to back, at the sides and at the top except for those places where the neck and arms are to protrude. The bottom is unsown as it allows me to place things in the cavity for extra padding . I then housed the torso in a pillow protector, sewing to reinforce existing stitching so that when I do unstitch where the neck and arms protrude, existing stitching will not come apart. It allows me to zip up the bottom to keep the torso as one complete unit.
Around the torso I put on a skivvy, something that has a turtle neck. This will be used to secure the head on with a zip-tie.
After washing and powdering the feet with talc, I placed the feet into knee-high socks. The upper foreleg is made from pool noodle wrapped in a tea towel. This makes the foreleg the right length, so that the knee appears in the right place. I threaded twine through the sleeve of the sock and tied them shut.
The thighs are made from blanket and are rolled into a cylinder shape. They are sewn to prevent unravelling.
The pelvis is made from three pieces of rolled and sewn blanket. Two pieces look like a tall cylinder where as the third looks like a flat cylinder. They are arranged and sown together like the figure below. After they are sewn, they are placed within an old pair of stretch shorts. I have sewn thread around the back where the border of each buttock should be. The thread needs to go through the shorts into the blanket underneath. A gap should be left so that you can place stuffing in each cavity to give the bum a more rounded feel.
After the stuffing is placed, the shorts are sewn shut both at the legs and the waist.
Once the pelvis is made, it is time to place the pelvis and thighs into something suitable to hold them as one unit. I placed them inside a pair of long johns. I had a pair that were too short for me, so they were just laying idle in the cupboard. I sewed them shut around the waist, but used twine to tie the legs shut. I did not cut off the remaining twine after tying the knot as I needed the length to anchor the forelegs. The forelegs are joined to the thigh by a knot.
Dolls: Manny Mark 1(DIY), Manny Mark 2(DIY) & Pranara (Kimber Doll)
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- Velanah Torres
- Active Member
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 5:01 am
- Location: Australia
Re: Manny's Wash, Repair, and Rebuild
I used the Onesie or Union Suit as a skin to hold everything together. I placed the legs in first, and then the torso. Sometimes you have to sow along the opening where the buttons are as the buttons can slide out of the holes. I threaded twine around the sleave of the neck so I could pull it taught. This helps to keep the neck of the torso from protruding too much out of the opening, which can cause the shoulders to look odd.
It is now time to affix the hands, feet and head. I had used zip ties in the past to hold each part on, but nowadays the head is the only remaining part that needs a zip tie. Experience taught me that zip ties are too harsh on silicone. I now use bandages to hold the hands and feet on.
Once powdered with talc, the hands are placed in white gloves. The wrists are tied shut with twine. I do this to protect the silicone from tears and abrasions.
The hands are affixed to the grey skivvy. I placed the hand inside the sleeve of the skivvy and pulled the sleeve down tight over the hand to make sure I get a tight secure join. I then tightly wound a bandage around the wrist, over the top of the skivvy, an inch down from the edge of the wrist of the hand. When I ran out of bandage I used butterfly clips to secure it in place. I then fold the remaining part of the sleeve of the skivvy back over the bandage. I then brought down the sleeve of the onesie and held it in place with a hair tie, then folded it back onto itself, and held that in place with another hair tie. I do likewise with the other hand.
For the feet, I used extra wide bandages. I pulled the leg sleeve of the onesie down tight over the shin of the foot, then secured it in place with the extra wide bandage. I then pulled the remaining of the leg sleeve over the top of the bandage and then placed a knee high sock over the top to protect the join.
The head is placed within the turtleneck of the skivvy. This will not be necessary if the onesie had a turtleneck. I placed the zip tie around the neck and pulled it ‘near’ tight. It needed to be loose enough at this stage as I needed to pull the turtleneck through until all of the turtleneck was through so that the base of the head sat flush with the seam of the turtleneck. I generally want the seam of the turtleneck to sit above the zip tie, so that the zip tie is tied hard up against it. Once I was happy with it, I secured the zip tie as hard as I could. If your head has a lip at the base, you can have the zip tie loose enough so that the head can turn, but tight enough so that the turtleneck of the skivvy will not pull through. My head does have a lip, but I am tempted to modify the neck to give it a better lip. A piece of aluminium strip screwed in place would do the trick.
Currently his head never falls off, even when I put him in multiple positions in one session.
However his hands do need to be readjusted once in a while. They do not come off, but the wrist join becomes too floppy for my liking.
Over the top of the onesie, because it is not all the one plain colour, I place several items of clothing to replicate the colour of skin. In this case it is a flesh pink skivvy and two pairs of tights, one is flesh pink, while the other is beige. After I am done putting those on, I place the final pair of knee high socks. I used two pairs of tights as they were semi-translucent.
With the sleeves of the flesh pink skivvy, I pull them over the hand, place a hair tie at the base of the wrist, then fold the rest of the sleeve back over itself. I use hair ties for an anchor as they are elastic and don’t move freely. I have tucked the waist of the skivvy down into his tights.
You can now dress him how you desire.
I bought silicone nipples from a sewing shop, as they are often used when making underwear for women. I sewed a circular pocket on the inside of his singlet to house the nipples.
The pockets have an opening, so that the nipples can be removed prior the singlet being washed.
These briefs can be bought from an online adult store. They are better than a harness and feature an o-ring for attaching a phallus. They are easily washed.
This is how he looks dressed. I prefer to use male pyjama bottoms as they have a slit for making toilet breaks in the middle of the night easier. I use them to button up the pyjamas around the phallus during play. It helps to keep messes from going anywhere it shouldn’t as clothes can easily be washed.
I often visit the local second hand store to look for clothes to put him in. They say a change is as good as a holiday.
Currently I am looking to replace his onesie with something that would better suit his facial colour. I can either get flesh pink or coffee which are either too dark or too light.
Obtaining an appropriate head can be difficult. There isn’t that many on the market. These heads are made from a hard vinyl with a foam inner core and a metal base. They do have a hole on the inside suitable for a pole to go through. The paint that is used tastes bitter. I would like to have them repainted, but am too scared of ruining them. They are not cheap, but they were not as expensive as his hands and feet were, but I wanted silicone as realism is a big issue for me as I am a very touchy feely person.
Although it is a few shades too dark. It does feel very nice. It is made from lycra and spandex.
Dolls: Manny Mark 1(DIY), Manny Mark 2(DIY) & Pranara (Kimber Doll)
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Re: Manny's Wash, Repair, and Rebuild
MAGA!
Brianna Piper : Piper 130C
- Velanah Torres
- Active Member
- Posts: 169
- Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 5:01 am
- Location: Australia
Re: Manny's Wash, Repair, and Rebuild
Your not the only one who has said such a thing. It was unintentional. Believe me. I am after a unitard that is the same color as his face. I have not yet found one.Dingo Pie wrote:Hah I like it. Only problem I had was the last picture, the tan, the light hair, the pale lips, reminded me of Donald Trump. Not that there's any thing wrong with that...
Dolls: Manny Mark 1(DIY), Manny Mark 2(DIY) & Pranara (Kimber Doll)
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- matt gloss
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Re: Manny's Wash, Repair, and Rebuild
My hybrid doll in Aquaman costume with pale blue glass eyes.