My Advanced Realistic Humanoid Robots Project

[Artbyrobot]

So far I have plans to build Adam, Eve, and Abel robots. All of these are Bible characters. This thread will cover my progression.

3D CAD Model for Eve Robot

eve preview.jpg (46.39 KiB) Viewed 1186 times

For the Adam Robot:
This was the first robot I started around 9 years ago. I built about half of its skeleton by sculpting it in clay, fiberglassing the clay, and then hollowing out the fiberglass bones to remove all clay from inside leaving just hollow bones. This is a light weight and strong way to make the skeleton for a robot. However, after some years distracted by other unrelated projects, I decided that just buying a PVC medical skeleton is a shortcut and I went this route to hurry up my progress toward my first robot for now. So I bought a PVC medical skeleton and named it Abel. Adam remains my first robot but Abel is the first robot I intend to complete. Once completed, I plan to have my Abel robot finish building the fiberglass skeleton for the Adam robot. In fact, Abel will build the entire Adam robot, not just the rest of the skeleton.

For the Abel Robot:
This is the second robot I began when I bought my PVC medical skeleton 4 years ago. I set aside the Adam robot temporarily to build the PVC medical skeleton-based robot which would be faster to build since I start with a finished skeleton - saving lots of time. Then just recently, I came up with the idea of using a hollowed out doll to form the exterior of the robot so I don't have to make the exterior from scratch - another big time saver. So I bought a WM TPE male doll from a dollforum member that I will be hollowing out and heavily modifying to form the outer shell of my Abel robot. In theory, I can convert any doll into a robot by skinning it (surgically cutting its outer skin away from its inner core), creating a wireframe mesh exoskeleton of its inner core as a replacement for the original inner core, adding a anatomical skeleton to the inside, and then adding all electronics onto the skeleton to actuate the whole thing.

For the Eve robot:
So far the extent of progression on the Eve robot has been creating a 3d model of her in CAD. The Eve robot will have no "love holes" because adding those would be sinful and evil. It is a robot, not a biological woman after all and I will view her with all purity of heart and mind instead of using her to fulfill my lusts of my body. Instead I will walk by the Spirit no longer fulfilling the lusts of the flesh as the Bible commands.

Eve will be beautiful because making her beautiful is not a sinful thing to do. However, I will dress her modestly as God commands of all women everywhere. This would obviously include robot women because otherwise the robot woman would be a stumbling block to men which could cause them to lust after her which would be a sin. To tempt someone to sin is not loving and is evil and so my robot will not do this. To dress her in a miniskirt, for example, would be sinful and evil and all people who engage in sinfulness knowingly are presently on their way to hell. I don't wish this for anyone. My robot will dress in a way that is a good example to all women and is aimed toward not causing anybody to lust as a goal.

My robots will all have a human bone structure. They will use either a PVC medical skeleton or fiberglass fabricated hollow bones.

My robots will look realistic and move realistic. They will be able to talk, walk, run, do chores, play sports, dance, rock climb, and do gymnastics. They will also be able to build more robots just like themselves and manufacture other products and inventions. I realized with just a head and arm, a robot can build the rest of its own body, so that is my intention.

My robots will use low cost BLDC motors commonly used for drones, RC, and scooters that are high speed and low-ish torque but I will downgear those motors with a Archimedes pulley system that will be custom made from custom fabricated pulleys that will be bearings based. By downgearing with pulleys, instead of gears, I will cut down the noise the robots make so they will be as silent as possible for indoor use. By downgearing, I convert the high speed motors into moderate speeds with great torque. BLDC motors with large torque generally are too large in diameter for a human form factor and take up too much volumetric area to be useful, which is why I go with the high speed smaller diameter type motors but just heavily downgear them 32:1 and 64:1. In my opinion, brushed DC motors are too loud for high quality indoor robotics and way less powerful than an equivalently sized BLDC motor, so I won't be using them at all in my robots.

My robots will have realistic silicone skin. Thom Floutz -LA based painter, sculptor, and make-up artist is my inspiration as it pertains to realistic skin. The skin for my robots has to be at his level to be acceptable. It must be nearly impossible to tell the robot is not human to be acceptable. I will have a wireframe mesh exoskeleton that simulates the volumes and movements of muscle underneath the skin which will give the skin its volumetric form like muscles do. Within these hollow wireframe mesh frameworks will be all the electronics and their cooling systems.

All of my motor controllers will be custom made since I need them VERY small to fit into the confined spaces I have to work with.

I need LOADS of motors to replace every pertinent muscle of the human body in such a way that the robots can move in all the ways humans move and have at least human level strength and speed.

I will have a onboard mini itx gaming PC as the main brains PC of the robot and will have Arduino Megas as the motor controllers and sensor reading devices that interface with the main brains pc. My Arduino Megas will be barebones to keep the volumetric area they take up as small as possible.

I will treat my robots kindly and consider them to be pretend friends/companions and I do think they will be nice company, but I will always know with keen awareness that they do not have a soul, will never have a soul or consciousness, and no machine ever will, and that they are just imitations of life as with any machine or AI, and this is all AI will ever be. Life is only made by God Himself. I am not playing God. I am merely creating fan art of what God made. To Him be all the glory and praise. God breathed into man and created a living soul. Man cannot do this for machines. Only God can do this. A soul/spirit forms our ghost and when we die our ghost remains alive and thinking. A machine cannot do this and a AI can never do this. When you shut off a machine that's it, it does not go on thinking like we can. Our souls are transcendent and will live forever in the afterlife - unlike any AI. I will do this project with fear and trembling before the Lord as I work out my salvation before His eyes. I vow to remain pure, holy, upright and blameless in all my doings and be a great example to my fellow roboticists of a Godly man who obeys the Bible instead of chasing after youthful lusts of the flesh and perversions.

I embrace the idea of Christian AI, that is, a robot that will discuss Bible topics and be a Biblical expert. Along with that, my robots will behave in a Biblically prescribed manner in total purity and strongly encourage others to do so as well. For God does not hear the prayers of sinners and so we want everyone to be a saint who no longer sins. My robots will really push for this hope for humans. We want them to walk in God's favor and blessings which comes by Biblical obedience and faith. We don't want them going to hell because they chose to revel in their sins instead of walking in total purity before God and holiness without which no man will see God.

My robot will have artificial lungs for air cooling and a artificial heart for liquid cooling that will run coolant throughout the robot's body to cool the motors. That coolant will also pass through the artificial lungs in a mesh where it will evaporate some which will cause the evaporative cooling effect - a form of air conditioning.

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[Artbyrobot]

Here is some of the early work I did on the Adam robot skeleton sculpted with plastalina modeling clay onto a makeshift armateur and then casted in fiberglass and epoxy (actually some of it I casted in nylon thread and epoxy too)

robot arm making.jpg (354.64 KiB) Viewed 1171 times

radius bone of the forearm.jpg (94.3 KiB) Viewed 1171 times

finger bones.jpg (69.48 KiB) Viewed 1171 times

stages of robotic hand making.jpg (92.53 KiB) Viewed 1171 times

The ulna bone ready to go for my advanced humanoid robot!.jpg (79.57 KiB) Viewed 1171 times

The radius bone ready to go!.jpg (62.3 KiB) Viewed 1171 times

[Artbyrobot]

Here's the index finger. This combines all 3 bones that form the index finger, joining them together in a elastic enclosure so that they can rotate just like a human finger. The enclosure is made of compression shirt material taped onto the bones with adhesive transfer tape and the seams between the various sections of cloth are sutured together with nylon upholstery thread.

Flexible artificial tendons of the thumb!.jpg (65.65 KiB) Viewed 1166 times

So then, the compression shirt fabric acts as ligaments for the joints, holding them together just like human joints have. In the event the elasticity of the compression shirt ligaments fades with time and the joints get loose, I plan to impregnate the fabric with silicone to tighten up the joints, restoring their elasticity.

Another added benefit in cloth enclosures on the bones is that you now have an attachment point for muscle cables which can be sewn directly into said cloth. Additionally, you can sew into the cloth all of your other electronics components, thereby fastening everything you need directly to the bones by way of sewing. I achieve this sewing using strong upholstery thread and a curved suturing needle. I use surgical pliers to grab the needle and use surgical suturing techniques to do the sewing.

[Artbyrobot]

Here is a prototype test hand skin I made using clear 100% silicone from the plumbing section of the local hardware store and some artist acrylic paint. I began by first mixing the paint into a skin tone and then stirred this paint into the clear silicone. When it has the desired transparency and color, you spread it onto your model like spreading peanutbutter on bread. I used an exacto knife to spread it. In this case I used my latex gloved hand as the model.

silicone hand practice first attempt.jpg (69.23 KiB) Viewed 1163 times

It was supposed to match my skin color and did when I first mixed the paint, but dried significantly darker than my skin. So always mix alot lighter than you want it. I know it looks very unrealistic, but I learned alot and this would only be a first layer anyways. To add realism, you add layer after layer of detail and texture passes, fine tuning and perfecting one pass at a time. Each pass making incremental improvements over the last. So I just view this hand as a rough ugly canvas on which the real work would begin - not a end product in itself. The passes would often involve airbrushing but various techniques can be used. And a texture pass is key to capture wrinkles and stuff which really adds realism alot.

Clear silicone for plumbing is very strong and not very soft so it will last longer. The very soft and stretchy silicone options are nice for realistic feel for some things but not as long lasting. So there's a tradeoff. For a robot, especially for abused parts like hands for a robot, plumbing silicone really probably is best so it is rough and tough.

[Artbyrobot]

As I mentioned before, Thom Floutz is a big inspiration with his incredible silicone work he does. This is a couple examples of his work:

thom floutz woman.jpg (493.22 KiB) Viewed 1163 times

thom floutz (2).jpg (433.89 KiB) Viewed 1163 times

thom floutz.jpg (25.53 KiB) Viewed 1163 times

So unless I reach this level of quality and realism, I will not accept my own silicone skin and will have to keep going until I do reach his level of quality.

[Artbyrobot]

Here's the robot hand starting to take shape:

robot hand starting to take shape.jpg (184.41 KiB) Viewed 1158 times

Also, here is some attempts at a flexible mesh exoskeleton I did for the hand. These were failures though because I did not realize you have to be able to deform this while it retains its shape integrity so it needs a lot of consideration for how it deforms in order to match the appearance at the locations of joints of a natural joint deformation that occurs when a joint bends on a human body.

exoskeleton mesh of hand progress.jpg (245.33 KiB) Viewed 1158 times

[Artbyrobot]

Here is the completed bone cloth enclosure adding phase of the robot hand and arm:

hand-on-printer.jpg (158.81 KiB) Viewed 1156 times

hand on printer.jpg (86.51 KiB) Viewed 1156 times

robot arm.jpg (65.43 KiB) Viewed 1156 times

[Artbyrobot]

I then moved onto the ribcage and spine sculpt:

rib-cage-clay-sculpt.jpg (498.13 KiB) Viewed 1145 times

ribcage start.jpg (44.16 KiB) Viewed 1145 times

I managed to attach about 60% of the ribcage and spine together with the spandex ligaments and still had several ribs and vertebrae to go when life happened and I set aside this project for some years besides some rare spurts of progress. But then picked the project back up in earnest a few years later with the PVC medical skeleton idea which ushered in the Abel robot to get things rolling more quickly with a completed skeleton to start with as a base. This would save tons of work and get me back on track timeline wise for my goals.

Note that even while making the fiberglass skeleton, I had people ask why not just use a pvc skeleton, and I'd tell them some reasons I had at the time. However, I was unaware then that PVC medical skeletons can be VERY strong, solid cored, not terribly heavy, and very high quality for robotic bones and are super cheap. When on sale, they can be as low as $80 and free shipping but often climb up to the $120-130 range with free shipping off ebay or amazon. That is very doable and saves COUNTLESS hours of trying to hand fabricate every bone one at a time. That was brutal and probably had a small role to play in burnout for me. When a project feels endless, it is easy to get distracted by grass is greener other things and just stop working on it. But I want to really stay consistent with progress going forward on this. I have made it my #1 highest priority project now and even created a commitment to always work on it EVERY DAY even if its just a single small thing. That steady progress adds up and makes the whole thing a lot more exciting and the momentum keeps it moving. I have managed to do this for 3 months with very few exceptions so it is working great so far.

Probably one big issue I had at the time and still have is that if you go with a PVC medical skeleton you are stuck with whatever height they sell and usually they are like 511" - which is not bad for most cases, but in my case I wanted Adam to be my height so wanted to make the bones custom. Plus, hollow fiberglass bones are lighter. But the added weight of solid PVC bones is not prohibitive imo. Still very doable.

[Artbyrobot]

Note: The decision to use a human-like skeletal system has to do with wanting to benefit from the amazing design God gave the bones and muscles of the human body. They are very well engineered and when you study anatomy, you come to really appreciate the genius of the designs of the musculoskeletal system. It is very efficient, powerful, and robust. The notion that it can be improved upon is one I disagree with. Also, by using the same musculoskeletal system we have, I can study my own movement to understand the challenges in balance and inverse kinematics and whatnot I will face when tackling those things for the robot. In addition, the robot itself will have AI that will mimic and emulate how humans move in order to learn new skills and this will be doable largely because the robot will move the same way humans move, owing to the fact it will have the same musculoskeletal structures. Also, suppose one could make the argument a third arm would be a improvement on the human body. Well if you do this, it will look unnatural and deformed and cause a disgust reaction in people seeing that gruesome third arm randomly there. I'd rather it look beautiful and natural rather than grotesque and odd. And supposing I did add that third arm, now the robot's AI has to figure out what to do with that third arm at all times and modify its gate and stance and movements to accommodate it and can no longer faithfully emulate human movement quite the same as it has to account for the weight and momentum of this third unnatural appendage. So really you would just be adding unnecessary complications at that point. Better to just go with a normal human build. Also, I have a goal to have the robot pass for human to a casual observer at least from a moderate distance. I'd like it to be capable of grocery shopping without anybody knowing it was a robot. Or it would be cool to have it approach people in public and strike up a conversation with strangers and see how long it takes the stranger to realize it is a robot. I would find that very amusing. That would make for some excellent YouTube content IMO.

So after switching to focus on the Abel robot, I was able to entirely dedicate myself to figuring out the electronics challenges because my structural frame was done quickly. I began to wrap my head around the vastness of the complexity and total parts needed for this and determined that just randomly placing parts won't work. So many parts in so small of a place would require extensive planning to ensure it all fits and lots of arranging work would be needed to make it all fit. So I first obtained a free 3d scan of a skeleton and I lowered its polygon count with the zbrush decimate tool to a more workable level and then I customized said skeleton to match the dimensions of my PVC medical skeleton perfectly. So now I had a model in CAD to scale. I did all of this in Maya. Then I did a 3d base mesh sculpt of the outer form of the robot overlaid onto the skeleton to scale to define the space I was constrained to for my electronics parts placement. I then made a red cylinder arrow indicator in CAD indicating the travel path of each pertinent and necessary muscle of the human body which showed where my muscle cable routing would have to go. I then researched every brushless direct current motor on eBay and made a list of their specifications in a database and assigned an appropriate motor to each muscle one by one that I made in the CAD file with the red arrows. I drew in CAD a black arrow pointing to the red arrow and to a 3D model I made of each motor to scale with the motor I assigned to operate each muscle from my database of motors. This way I assigned a motor to every muscle of the body. I next created a black arrow pointing to the red arrow and pointing to a placard on which I put the name of the muscle in question for future reference. Once all the motors were assigned and placed in CAD, I dragged and dropped these motor models into specific locations within the base mesh of the body wherever I was able to find room for them. I tried to centralize the weight distribution to match the weight distribution of the human body. Most weight being centered around the core. Weight more distally located would make limb movement more sluggish and difficult so more central locations for the heaviest weight things is ideal. I then modeled my artificial lungs and artificial heart cooling systems and reservoirs and pumps and tubing routing for the cooling. I had most of this stuff already designed on paper sketches but putting it all into a 3D CAD model really helped visualize and solidify my designs and add more detail to it. I then modeled 18650 lithium batteries in color black and placed them in the abdomen region. (It will use a hot swappable battery backpack to supplement these as well). The only muscles of the body I did not do in my CAD is the facial ones but I figured I can worry about that later and that part should be very straightforward and is not necessary for full functionality of the robot and is more just for aesthetics as a icing on the cake late stage development. Those motors I think can all fit into the skull so as long as I keep that empty, I'll be good to go when the time comes to get into facial animation but that is not a high priority for me. That is a solved problem in robotics anyways but human level strength and speed in a realistic human looking body is not a solved problem so that is my main focus.

Here's pictures of my CAD work for the above described stuff:

3d model of abel.jpg (477.38 KiB) Viewed 1122 times

detail of labeled muscles and motors placement on arm.jpg (580.7 KiB) Viewed 1122 times

detail of legs filled with motors.jpg (522.8 KiB) Viewed 1122 times

detail of shoulder and neck blueprints.jpg (672.46 KiB) Viewed 1122 times

neck design closeup.jpg (363.36 KiB) Viewed 1122 times

batteries in abdomen area and main pc mounted behind them and cooling systems behind that.jpg (426.72 KiB) Viewed 1122 times

[Artbyrobot]

So a key part of this project was figuring out a way to make the robot as silent as possible so that the loud grinding gear noises would not give away that it is a robot and would not generally be annoying and break the illusion of the robot being a real person. I found that this can be achieved by way of using pulleys to downgear the motors instead of gears. Like most anybody, I knew pulleys increase the weight you can lift somehow, but that's about it. I did not fully understand how they work until I came across this video: https://youtu.be/M2w3NZzPwOM
And after I saw that video and really studied it over and over in slow motion, rewinding it and replaying it until I fully grasped how everything worked, then I was armed with the necessary understanding to design my own 32:1 and 64:1 archimedes pulley systems for my robot.

archimedes pulley system sketch.jpg (1.32 MiB) Viewed 1085 times

compact archimedes pulley system CAD design.jpeg (12.35 KiB) Viewed 1085 times

As you'll note above, my early design assumed the string can just slide around a sheath which is true, however, it does not take into account the slicing effect this would have. People use string to cut firewood! It can even slice through metal. So in the second drawing I moved away from that idea and went with a more traditional bearing based pulley design - pulleys more like rock climbers use. This way the string does little to no sliding on the pulley but instead the pulley's bearing is what does the slippage and the outer race of the pulley just gently guides the string along. So all the rubbing/slippage is happening inside the interface between the inner and outer race of the bearings. For some bearings I'll be using ball bearings I bought on aliexpress and amazon. For other bearings that need to be more robust, I'll be using custom fabricated plain bearings I will be making using stainless steel tubing I bought on amazon. Plain bearings can handle more load than ball bearings which makes them ideal for the higher torque last few pulleys of the archimedes pulley system.

[Artbyrobot]

The archimedes pulley system CAD image in my last post will give 64:1 downgearing. Compare this to 180:1 standard downgear ratio in a hobby mg996r servo motor for example. Will be a bit faster than that then but still plenty of torque. Another HUGE benefit of pulleys over gears is gears generally are mounted to top of motor which really makes a large volumetric area taken up by the motor and downgearing which creates space concerns for fitment inside tight spaces in humanoid form factor (particularly when you use a human bone structure instead of a hollow 3d printed arm with no bones which some have done to accommodate geared servos inside the hollowed arm space). So by translating the motor’s turning by way of braided PE fishing line to a pulley system like this, you can decouple the motor from the downgearing in your CAD design, placing the downgearing in a convenient place separate from the placement of the motor which allows for creative rearranging possibilities that enable you to cram way more motors and downgearing into the very limited spaces in the robot. The motors and downgearing is fitting where muscles would normally be in a human body so you want elongated narrow fitment options and this way of downgearing lends to that shape constraint well. Also it is nice not to have to worry about making or buying gears which can add cost and complexity and weight and a lot of volume concerns. The noise elimination will be huge.

I’m planning to use .2mm 20lb test braided PE fishing line on the finger motors that will run to the pulley system and then swap to 70lb test line for some of the lower pulleys where the downgearing has beefed up the torque quite a bit and the tension will be higher there so going thicker line then. 70lb test will go to fingers from the final pulley of the Archimedes pulley downgearing system.

The 70lb test PE braided fishing line (Hercules brand off Amazon) is .44 mm OD and pairs well with .56mm ID PTFE teflon tube I can buy on eBay. The 20lb test PE braided fishing line (Hercules brand off Amazon) pairs well with 0.3mm ID PTFE teflon tube. The tube acts just like bike brakes line guidance hose to guide the string to its desired location. Teflon is naturally very low friction. I may also lube the string so the friction is even lower inside the tubing. I’d use Teflon lubricant for the lube.

I will be actively CAMPAIGNING AGAINST use of gears in indoor home-use humanoid robots because I think they are too loud and obnoxious. BLDC motors are quiet and pulleys should be quiet too. Having powerful, fast, and very quiet robots is ideal for home users who don’t want a super loud power drill sound coming off their home robot. I believe this downgearing by pulleys solves all of this and aught to be the way downgearing is done for humanoid robots as the standard approach going forward. - but of course someone has to be first to do it to prove it and show a way to approach this method and I seem to be the one for this task. Nobody to my knowledge has fully downgeared to 32:1 or 64:1 type ratios by way of pulleys before now so I’m definitely innovating that imo.

[Artbyrobot]

motor hose guide detail.jpg (95.71 KiB) Viewed 1037 times

brushless dc motor closeup.jpg (396.41 KiB) Viewed 1037 times

These are my brushless dc motors I selected for the finger actuation. It is size 2430 bldc. They are 200w motors so significantly powerful for a finger IMO. In the topmost image, I show my CAD design for a tubing mount that holds the tubing that guides the muscle cable. This tubing needs to line up accurately to ensure proper winding action. I'm able to use fabric tape to secure the tubing to the tubing guide 3d print that I attach to the motor by way of sewing with upholstery thread and a suturing needle. The holder has to be ABS 3d print so it can handle the heat given off by the motor without deforming. PLA's glass temperature at which it begins to deform is too low to be touching the motors which may get a bit hot. But ABS does not deform at the temperatures expected for the motor even at its hottest so it is safe to put against the motor. Anyways, after taping the tubing to the tubing guide arm, I apply super glue to the fabric tape which solidifies it and makes it act like a cast holding on the tubes very solidly.

Note that I chose to use football jersey mesh coated on the inside with no slip rug coating paint as the means by which I create a fabric sleave for the motor. The motor will not be able to turn in this tight sleeve and once it has this sleeve, I am able to sew the motor sleeve onto the bone sleeve by way of suturing with upholstery thread. I prefer sewing on parts as opposed to bolting them on since bolts into the PVC bones would compromise the structural integrity of the bone. By sewing you don't damage the bone at all but instead sew into the fabric that coats the bone which doesn't affect the structural integrity.

The little discs that make the output shaft of the motor look like a sewing bobbin were also 3d printed in ABS and glued on with super glue onto the shaft. I use a needle screwed into a exacto knife handle as a precision applicator for the super glue, dipping just the tip into the glue and carefully applying the glue where I want it. This prevents drippage which can be a bit of a disaster when dealing with tiny parts that are moving parts like this.

In this picture I was using 130lb test blue PE braided fishing line, but I realized this is oversized for the fingers and the larger diameter guidance tubing also would be oversized and take up too much space. So I switched to 20lb test PE braided fishing line instead a couple days ago. After the first handful of pulleys in the archimedes pulley downgearing system, only then as the torque increases will I swap to 70lb test fishing line which will complete the Archimedes pulley system before being routed to the finger joint to actuate the finger.

Note: the TPFE teflon tubing idea came from studying the bike brakes mechanism and how tubing enables the bike brake wires to make arching turns while leaving slack in the lines due to the big arching turns in the guidance tubing that allows you to turn the handlebars without the brakes deploying due to the slack the guidance tubing affords you in your bike design. The same principles are being used in the tubing for guiding the muscle cable of the robot.

Note: the more pulleys you add to the archimedes pulley system the more downgeared it will be. Downgearing trades speed in exchange for gaining torque. So you end up with a slower muscle cable but pulling harder. Since these BLDC motors are designed for high speed and low-ish torque, trading off that speed for more torque by way of downgearing is essential for useful muscle actuation. Hobby servomotors generally use brushed dc motors (cheap and crappy) and downgear by way of a gearbox (loud and have resistance) and the downgear ratio they achieve is 180:1. They end up a pretty nice speed but a tad on the slow side IMO. So I'm shooting for 32:1 or 64:1 which will bump my speed up compared to the hobby servo but still give me a great torque output. And remember, BLDC motors are WAY more powerful than a equivalently sized brushed DC motor.

Note: the holes in the football jersey mesh allow for the motor to "breathe" releasing the heat it produces into the surrounding air. This is important because you don't want to trap the heat in and smother the motor and cause it to overheat. The football jersey mesh is also very strong and anti-rip because it's designed for football after all. So it really seems like a perfect fit for this.

Note: I plan to actually use silicone based thermal glue to adhere braided copper wick to the motor and run this over to copper coolant pipe which will run throughout the robot carrying coolant. This will allow for thermal conduction of the motor's heat into the coolant pipe to be carried away from the motor and over to the evaporative cooling system. Copper is a excellent thermal conductor. Also, some percentage of heat as it travels from the motor through the copper solder wick braid and over to the coolant piping will escape into the surrounding air which will be regularly replaced with fresh cool air by the artificial lungs which will distribute fresh air throughout the robot in tubes and simultaneously, hot air will be exhausted through separately routed exhaust pipes as the fresh air displaces it. So then the solder wick braid increases the surface area coming from the motor which is more opportunity for venting off heat. These act like fins on a radiator for a car which evaporate heat.

[ondsdoll]

Very interesting

[carbohvdrates]

This is a project beyond my skill level of understanding on more than one front but you certainly have my admiration! Godspeed!

[SxDolled]

WOWWW this project looks insane!! Definitely following this one, keep up the good work!